Manual Stanley STSM1510 (page 9 of 14) (English)

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NOTE: Your mitre saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the

factory at the time of manufacture. If readjustment due to

shipping and handling or any other reason is required, follow

the steps below to adjust your saw.

Mitre Scale Adjustment

Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade, as

shown in Figure 4. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth

with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate

measurement.) Loosen the mitre clamp handle (4) as shown

in Figure 5 and swing the mitre arm until the mitre latch (5)

locks it at the 0 mitre position. Do not tighten the clamp

handle. If the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the

fence, loosen the two screws that hold the handle to the

base (shown in Figure 6) and move the arm of the saw left

or right until the blade is perpendicular to the fence, as

measured with the square. Retighten the two screws. Pay

no attention to the reading of the mitre pointer at this point.

Guard Actuation and Visibility

The blade guard on your saw has been designed to

automatically raise when the arm is brought down and to

lower over the blade when the arm is raised. The guard can

be raised by hand when installing or removing saw blades

or for inspection of the saw. NEVER RAISE THE BLADE

GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS THE SAW IS TURNED OFF.

NOTE: Certain special cuts will require that you manually

raise the guard. To do this, simply place your right thumb on

the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just

enough to clear the workpiece. Never tie up or otherwise

prevent the guard from operating normally.

Operation

Plug the saw into any power source. Refer to the nameplate

for voltage. Be sure the cord will not interfere with your

work.

Switch

To turn the saw on, depress the trigger switch (16). To turn

the tool off, release the switch. There is no provision for

locking the switch on.

Body and Hand Position (See ﬁgure 7)

Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating

the mitre saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and

safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no

closer than 6" from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to

the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position

until the trigger has been released and the blade has

completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS

(UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU

CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS

HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 7.

Cutting With Your Saw

NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many nonferrous

materials, we will limit our discussion to the cutting of wood

only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials. DO

NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL) MATERIALS OR

MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not use any abrasive

blades.

Crosscuts

NOTE: Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended, but

can be done safely by ensuring that each piece is held ﬁrmly

against the table and fence.

A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any

angle. A straight crosscut is made with the mitre arm at the

zero degree position. Set the mitre arm at zero, hold the

wood on the table and ﬁrmly against the fence. Turn on the

saw by squeezing the trigger switch. When the saw comes

up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and

slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full

stop before raising arm.

Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle

other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for making

corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 47 degrees

left or right. After selecting the desired mitre angle, be sure

to tighten the mitre clamp handle (4). Make the cut as

described above.

Bevel Cuts

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel

to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel

clamp knob (17) and move the saw to the left as desired.

Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel

clamp knob ﬁrmly. Bevel angles can be set up to 45 degrees

left and can be cut with the mitre arm set between zero and

47 degrees right or left.

Quality of Cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of

variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade

sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the

cut.

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other

precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a

slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.

Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it

securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop

before raising arm.

(Original instructions) ENGLISH

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Stanley STSM1510 Manual

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