Manual Stanley SFMCS701 (page 16 of 184) (English, German, Dutch, Danish, French, Italian, Portuguese, Swedish, Turkish, Spanish, Norwegian, Finnish)

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ENGLISH

(Original instructions)

Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and

reduce the risk of work piece damage and personal injury, if

your hands are required to be within 6" (152 mm) of the blade

during the cut.

Note! The rail lock screw (18) must be loose to allow the saw

to slide along its rails.

Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle

other than zero.

This angle is often 45º for making corners, but can be set

anywhere from zero to 47º left or 47° right. Make the

cut as described above.

When performing a mitre cut on work pieces wider than a 2

x 6 that are shorter in length, always place the longer side

against the fence (Fig. O).

To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood,

match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too

long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to deter-

mine which direction to adjust the mitre angle and recut. This

will take some practice, but it is a commonly used technique.

Bevel cuts

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade leaning at

an angle to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the

bevel lock knob (12), and move the saw to the left as desired.

Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel

lock rmly. Bevel angles can be set from 3º right to 48º left.

Quality of cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables.

Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness

and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut. When

smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and other precision

work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide tip) blade and a slower, even

cutting rate will produce the desired results.

Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting;

clamp it securely in place.

Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm. If

small bres of wood still split out at the rear of the work piece,

stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will

be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape

when nished.

For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommend-

ed saw blades for your saw and select the one that best ts

your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories.

Body and hand position (g. O1–O4)

Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the

mitre saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.

Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer

than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the work piece tightly

to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in posi-

tion until the trigger has been released and the blade has

completely stopped.

ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UN-POWERED) BEFORE

FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF

THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN

FIGURE O3.

Keep both feet rmly on the oor and maintain proper bal-

ance. As you move the mitre arm left and right, follow it and

stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the

guard louvres when following a pencil line.

Clamping the work piece

Warning! To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn

tool off and remove the battery pack before transporting,

making any adjustments or removing/installing attachments or

accessories. An accidental start-up can cause injury.

Warning! A work piece that is clamped, balanced and secure

before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed.

An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is

attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a

cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the work

piece and ensure the saw is rmly bolted to a stable surface.

Personal injury may occur.

Warning! The clamp foot must remain clamped above the

base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp

the work piece to the base of the saw – not to any other part

of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the

edge of the base of the saw.

Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and

reduce the risk of work piece damage and personal injury, if

your hands are required to be within 6" (152 mm) of the blade

during the cut. If you cannot secure the work piece on the

table and against the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.), or

your hand would be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a

clamp or other xture must be used.

Use the material clamp provided with your saw. To purchase

a material clamp, contact your local retailer or Stanley FatMax

service centre.

Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps

may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material.

Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to

make a dry run before making the cut.

To install clamp (g. P)

u Insert the clamp (37) into the hole (19) behind the fence.

The clamp should be facing toward the back of the mitre

saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted

into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the

base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp

will not be secure.

u Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the mitre saw.

u Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use

the ne adjust knob to rmly clamp the work piece.

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Stanley SFMCS701 Manual

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