Manual Stanley SFMCS701 (page 17 of 184) (English, German, Dutch, Danish, French, Italian, Portuguese, Swedish, Turkish, Spanish, Norwegian, Finnish)

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ENGLISH

(Original instructions)

Note: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when

bevelling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UN-POWERED) BE-

FORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE.

ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE

ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.

Adjustments

Your mitre saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at

the time of manufacture. If readjustment due to shipping and

handling or any other reason is required, follow the instruc-

tions below to adjust your saw.

Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate. Take

a little time now to follow these directions carefully to maintain

the accuracy of which your saw is capable.

Mitre scale adjustment (g. Q1)

Lock the arm in the down position. Unlock the mitre lock

knob (5) and swing the mitre arm until the mitre latch button

(6) locks it at the 0° mitre position. Do not lock the mitre lock

knob. Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade,

as shown. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth with the

square. To do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.) If

the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen

and move the material fence until the blade is perpendicular

to the fence, as measured with the square. Pay no attention to

the reading of the mitre pointer at this time.

Bevel square to table adjustment (Fig. Q2)

To align the blade square to the table, lock the arm in the

down position with the lock down pin (20). Place a square

against the blade, ensuring the square is not on top of a tooth.

Loosen the bevel lock knob (5) and ensure the arm is rmly

against the 0° bevel stop. Rotate the 0° bevel adjustment

screw with the 1/2" (12.7 mm) socket (not provided) as neces-

sary so that the blade is at 0° bevel to the table, as measured

with the square.

Guard actuation and visibility (Fig. V)

Warning! Pinch hazard. To reduce the risk of injury, keep

thumb underneath the operating handle when pulling the

handle down. The lower guard will move up as the operating

handle is pulled down, which could cause pinching.

The lower guard (4) on your saw has been designed to au-

tomatically uncover the blade when the arm is brought down

and to cover the blade when the arm is raised.

Before each use or after making adjustments, cycle the arm

(un-powered) and make sure the guard opens smoothly and

closes fully. It should not contact the blade. With the arm

up, raise the guard (un-powered) as shown in Figure V and

release. The guard should fully close rapidly.

Do not operate the saw if the guard does not move freely and

fully close rapidly. Never clamp or tie the guard in an open

position when operating the saw.

The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing

saw blades or for inspection of the saw.

NEVER RAISE THE LOWER GUARD MANUALLY UNLESS

THE BLADE IS STOPPED.

Note: Certain special cuts of large material will require that

you manually raise the guard. Refer to cutting large material

under special cuts.

The front section of the guard is louvred for visibility while

cutting. Although the louvres dramatically reduce ying debris,

they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should

be worn at all times.

Rail Guide

Periodically check the rails (13) for any play or clearance. The

rails can be cleaned with a dry clean cloth.

Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other

Four-Sided Projects (Fig. R1, R2)

To best understand how to make the items listed here, we

suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood

until you develop a “feel” for your saw.

Your saw is the perfect tool for mitreing corners like the one

shown in Figure R1. Sketch A in Figure R2 shows a joint made

by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two

boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the

mitre arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel ad-

justment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the

broad at side against the table and the narrow edge against

the fence. The cut could also be made by mitreing right and

left with the broad surface against the fence.

Cutting trim moulding and other frames (g. R2)

Sketch B in Figure R2 shows a joint made by setting the mitre

arm at 45º to mitre the two boards to form a 90º corner. To

make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and

the mitre arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the

broad at side on the table and the narrow edge against the

fence.

Figures R1 and R2 are for four-sided objects only.

As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel

angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety

of shapes.

Examples

Number of Sides Mitre or Bevel Angle

4 45°

5 36°

6 30°

7 25.7°

8 22.5°

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Stanley SFMCS701 Manual

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