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Page 11
Water Quality and Maintenance
OZONE MAINTENANCE
Reduced or no ozone bubbles coming from heater return (clogged
ozone injector) or no ozone, clean the injector:
1. Place 16 ounces of white vinegar into a cup or bucket.
2. Carefully loosen the long tubing attached to the bottom of the
ozonator, located in the equipment compartment.
DANGER: Place the end of the tubing into the vinegar, making
certain that the end of the tubing sits at the bottom of the container.
3. Run the spa until all 16 ounces of the vinegar are gone. This should
allow
an ample flow of vinegar to be run through the injector and clear the
blockage.
4. Reinstall the tubing to the bottom of the ozonator.
Water chemistry damage is not covered by the warranty. The chemical
levels and water quality in the spa are under your direct control.
With proper basic care, the spa will provide many years of hot water
relaxation. If you are unsure about any chemical or its usage in the spa,
contact your Authorized Dealer, or Watkins Manufacturing Corporation.
DO:
Add all chemicals slowly into the filter compartment with the jet pump
operating for ten minutes.
Use special care if using baking soda to clean either the interior or
exterior plastic surfaces.
IMPORTANT: Watkins Manufacturing Corporation DOES NOT
recommend the use of any floating chemical dispenser. Damage to
the spa shell or components caused by a floating chemical dispenser
is specifically not covered under the terms of the limited warranty.
Floating dispensers can become trapped in one area and cause an
over-sanitization or release large chunks of sanitizer that very quickly
chemically burns the shell and cover.
DON'T:
Use compressed sanitizers.
Use a floater type sanitization system as a low or no maintenance
solution to your spa maintenance program.
Use a sanitizer which is not designed for spas.
Use swimming pool (muriatic) acid to lower pH.
Use household bleach (liquid sodium hypochlorite).
Broadcast or sprinkle the chemicals onto the water surface. This
method may cause chemically-induced spa surface blistering (chemical
abuse).
VACATION WATER CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
If you plan to be away from home, follow these instructions to ensure
that the water quality of your spa is maintained:
SHORT TIME PERIODS (3-5 DAYS):
1. Adjust the pH by following the instructions outlined in the Water Quality
and Maintenance section.
2. Sanitize the water by following the shock procedures also listed in the
Water Quality and Maintenance section.
3. Lock your cover in place using the coverlocks.
4. Upon your return, sanitize the water by following the shock procedures,
and balance the pH.
5. If ACE is installed, please refer to Tips section, vacation or limited use
in the ACE Owner's Manual.
LONG TIME PERIODS (5-14 DAYS):
Prior to leaving:
1. At least one day before you leave, set the temperature to its lowest
level. This setting should represent an approximate water temperature
of 80°F (27°C)
IMPORTANT: Spa water oxidizers such as sodium dichlor (chlorine)
maintain their level of effectiveness substantially longer in warm water
80°F
(27°C)
than in hot water 101°F to 104°F (38°C - 40°C).
2. Adjust the pH as required. Sanitize the water by following the shock
procedures.
Upon your return:
3. Sanitize the water by following the shock procedures. Return the set
temperature to its original setting. The spa water will be safe for you to
use once the Free Available Chlorine residual level has dropped below
5.0 ppm.
IMPORTANT: If you will not be using your spa for an extended period
of time (in excess of 14 days) and an outside maintenance service
(or neighbor) is not available to assist with the water maintenance,
draining or winterizing of the spa is recommended. Spas equipped
with our FRESHWATER III ozone system can extend this to 4 weeks.
The FRESHWATER III ozone system does not guard against possible
freezing damage, however.
SUPPLEMENTAL WATER MAINTENANCE
Proper water sanitation and mineral balance (pH control) are absolutely
essential for a complete spa water maintenance program. Here are two
other popular water additives that are optional:
Mineral Deposit Inhibitors
As water evaporates from your spa and new water is added, the amount
of dissolved minerals will increase. (Minimize evaporation by keeping
the cover on the spa whenever possible.) The spa water may eventually
become “hard” (Calcium Hardness too high) enough to damage the
heater by calcifying its surface. Proper pH control can minimize this.
Normal soap build-up will require water replacement regularly enough
that mineral deposits normally are not a problem.
Occasionally, high iron or copper content in the water may produce
green or brown stains on the spa. A stain and scale inhibitor may help to
reduce these metals.
IMPORTANT: Well water may contain high concentrations of minerals.
The use of a low water volume, extra-fine pore water filter (in-line pre-
filter such as the CLEAN SCREEN pre-filter) will help to remove many of
the larger particles during the filling of the spa. In-line pre-filters can be
purchased at your local HOT SPRING dealer.
Foam Inhibitors
Spa water requires changing due to the buildup of soap in the water.
Typically, soap will cause the spa water to foam when the jets are used.
Soap is introduced into the spa water from two sources: users’ bodies,
which retain a soap residual after showering, and swimming apparel,
which retains soap after washing.
Foam inhibitors can suppress foam, but cannot remove soap from the
water. Soap is very difficult to remove from the water because soap is
not oxidized by any chemical added to the spa. Only ozone can oxidize
soap.
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  • I have a 2001 prodigy and the circulation pump doesn’t seem to come on. And now cold weather the jets poor out very cold water. What could this be? Submitted on 18-10-2022 at 15:54

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