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5.5. Nähprobe - Cover / 5.5. Essai de couture - point enveloppant
5.5. Prova di cucito- punto di copertura / 5.5. Proeß apje - coversteek
Cover Stich Nähprobe und
Sticheinstellung
Nach dem Einfädeln eine Nähprobe auf
doppeltem Stoff nähen, um Stichformation
und Fadenspannung zu prüfen.
Nähtest
- Maschine anschliessen und einschalten
(Hauptschalter l)
- Fadenspannungen auf 3-5 einstellen.
- Stichlänge 3.5 einstellen.
- Differentialtransport auf N einstellen.
- Nähfuss anheben und Stoff unter Fuss und
Nadeln platzieren (A).
- Nähfuss senken.
- Für den ersten Einstich Handrad drehen.
- Nähen.
- Am Nähende, Handrad im Gegenuhrzeiger
drehen, bis Nadeln in Tiefststellung, dann
Handrad im Uhrzeigersinn drehen um die
Nadeln in die Höchststellung zu bringen.
Dies löst die Nadelfäden vom Greifer (B).
- Nähfuss anheben.
- Nähgut vorsichtig nach links wegziehen.
- Fäden über dem Fadenabschneider
schneiden (C).
Test de couture et réglages du point
enveloppant
Après l'enÞ lage, effectuer un essai de couture
sur un tissu double, enfin de vérifier la
formation du point et la tension de Þ l.
Test de couture
- Brancher la machine et l'enclencher
(commutateur principal sur I).
- Réglage des tensions de Þ l: entre 3 et 5.
- Réglage de la longueur de point: 3.5.
- Réglage du mécanisme d'avance différentiel: N.
- Soulever le pied-de-biche et placer le tissu
sous le pied et les aiguilles (A).
- Abaisser le pied-de-biche.
- Tourner le volant à la main pour planter
l'aiguille.
- Coudre.
- A l'extrémité de la couture, tourner le volant
en sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre
pour amener les aiguilles dans leur position
la plus basse. Puis, tourner le volant dans le
sens des aiguilles d'une montre pour amener
les aiguilles dans leur position la plus haute.
Ceci libère les Þ ls d'aiguille du boucleur (B).
- Soulever le pied-de-biche.
- Enlever l'ouvrage avec précaution par la
gauche.
- Couper les Þ ls en passant par-dessus le
coupe-Þ l (C).
A
B
C
Prova di cucito
Al termine dell’infilatura fare una prova di
cucito su due strati di stoffa per controllare la
formazione del punto e la tensione.
Punto di copertura, prova di cucito
- Collegare la macchina alla corrente,
accendere (interruttore principale su “ I ”.
- Regolare le tensioni.
- Lunghezza punto su 3.
- Differenziale su N.
- Alzare il piedino e posizionare la stoffa sotto
piedino ed aghi (A).
- Abbassare il piedino.
- Per fare il primo punto girare il volantino.
- Cucire.
- Al termine della cucitura girare il volantino
nel senso antiorario, portando gli aghi nella
loro posizione più bassa, poi girare il
volantino nel senso orario per alzare gli aghi
(posizione più alta). I Þ li degli aghi vengono
liberati dal crochet (B).
- Alzare il piedino.
- Tirare la stoffa con cautela verso sinistra.
- Tagliare i Þ li con il tagliaÞ lo incorporato (C).
Coversteek - proeß apje en
steekinstelling
Maak na het inrijgen een proeß apje met een
dubbele laag stof om de steekvorming en
draadspanning te controleren.
Naaitest:
- Machine aansluiten en inschakelen
(hoofdschakelaar op ‘ I ’.
- Draadspanningen instellen.
- Steeklengte op 3 instellen.
- Differentieel-transport op N instellen.
- Naaivoet omhoogzetten en stof onder de
naaivoet en naalden leggen (A).
- Naaivoet omlaagzetten.
- Draai voor de eerste steek aan het handwiel.
- Naaien.
- Bij naadeinde het handwiel tegen de wijzers
van de klok in draaien tot de naalden in de
laagste stand staan. Daarna met de wijzers
van de klok mee aan het handwiel draaien
om de naalden in de hoogste stand te
zetten. Zo laten de naalddraden van de
grijper los (B).
- Naaivoet omhoogzetten.
- Naaiwerk zorgvuldig naar links wegnemen.
- Draden over de draadafsnijder trekken (C).
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