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ENGLISH ENGLISH
ROAD BIKE | OWNER’S MANUALOWNER’S MANUAL | ROAD BIKE
b ca e fd
| 78 7 9 |
Tyre mounting
To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should take your
time and proceed stepwise. Some practice and experience with the tyre adhesive
used and the relevant model of tubular tyre can speed up the work.
In general, mounting tubular tyres is a job for your BERGAMONT dealer. Read the
mounting instructions of the tyre manufacturer before you start mounting.
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tapes (a). One
advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However, this may not
always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. If you have a puncture while
out riding, the tape often remains on the tyre that has been removed and the reserve
tyre no longer seats properly on the rim.
For that reason we recommend a solid bed made up of several layers of liquid rim
cement (tyre adhesive). Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also remains on
the rim when dismounting the tyre.
However, back home again you should remove the spare tyre nevertheless. The
existing bed and the tyre (b) are then treated with rim cement once again and the tyre
is mounted again to ensure that it seats properly.
If you have wheels with very high rims, undo the valve insert with the special mounting
tool before the first mounting and take it out of the valve, and install a valve extension
in its place (c). Screw the valve insert back into the lengthened valve. Now you can
inflate and deflate the mounted tyre via the extended valve in the usual way.
Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and then stick the valve
through the hole in the rim. Starting from the valve and working in both directions
press the tyre into the rim all the way round. If you are unable to mount it completely
on the rim or if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, since it might not
work with force alone.
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre runs true.
The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened which leads to a
vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during the ride. Remove the burrs
from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it with a big drill (d), a trian-
gular scraper or a round file.
If you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge
with a round file. Insert the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa,
otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant
glue subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the rim.
If time permits, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few days to
make the final mounting easier.
Subsequently, clean the base of the rim from grease or oil by using a rag soaked with
acetone, spirit or benzine (e).
Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to glue the tyre onto the
rim. Gluing the tyre (f) is easiest with the wheel clamped in a truing stand or mounted
on an old fork clamped in a vice.
With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive bed.
Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the entire circum-
ference of the rim.
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