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ENGLISHENGLISH TREKKING AND TREKKING‑PEDELEC | ORIGINAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONSORIGINAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS | TREKKING AND TREKKING‑PEDELEC
b ca e fd
If you have V-brakes and cantilever brakes hook up the brake cable at the brake arm.
To do this, grip the rim with one hand and press the brake pads and/or the brake
arms together. In this position the usually barrel shaped nipple can easily be engaged
(e).
If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake pads rest
snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between the brake pads and the
wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators in their correct position (f). Make sure you
guide the rotor carefully between the brake pads.
If your bicycle has a multi-speed hub, back-pedal, drum or roller brakes, verify the
proper assembly of the individual components and tension the chain before tight-
ening the wheel nuts by pulling the wheel backwards.
Verify that the amount of play midway between sprockets and chainring is not more
than two centimetres. Make sure there is no excessive chain slack! Finish by tightening
the torque support (“brake torque arm“) to the prescribed torque value.
All brakes:
After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever (several
times, if you have disc brakes).
Lift your BERGAMONT bike off the ground and spin the wheel with your hand. With
the wheel spinning the rotor should not drag along the brake calliper or the brake
pads and the rim should keep off the (rim) brake pads.
DANGER!
G
If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook up the brake cable immediately after
the wheel mounting!
DANGER!
G
Before setting off again check that the brake surfaces and/or rotors are still free of
grease or other lubricants after the wheel mounting.
DANGER!
G
Check whether the brake pads hit the rotors or brake surfaces of the rims. Make
sure the wheel is properly seated and rmly fixed in the drop-outs. Always do a
brake test as described in the chapter “Tests before every ride“!
Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically from both sides.
Towards the end, you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards (a) to make the
already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part of the rim well. This
will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
Before fitting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the inner tube lies
properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim
using the balls of your thumbs.
If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (b). Make sure the bent ends
point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.
Push the valve subsequently a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get
caught between the rim and the tyre beads. Check whether the valve stands upright.
If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube.
To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between the rim and the bead,
move the tyre sideways back and forth between the sides of the rim. While doing so,
also check whether the rim tape has shifted.
Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is indicated on
the side of the tyre.
Check whether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting the fine witness line just
above the rim edge. This line should be even to the rim all around the tyre (c). If it is
not, deflate the tyre a little and check again. Starting from the maximum tyre pressure
you can now reduce the pressure through the valve to suit your needs. Observe the
recommended tyre pressure range.
REMOUNTING THE WHEEL
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure the wheel
is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the fork legs or
the seat and chainstays. Make sure that the quick-release and the drop-out catches
are correctly seated (d). For more information see the chapter “Using quick-releases”.
| 9 0 9 1 |
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