Manual Yamaha XV920 Virago (page 306 of 363) (English)

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Chapter 8 Part A Electrical system (XV535 models)

8A-3

1 General information

The machines covered by this manual are equipped with a 12-volt

electrical system.

The charging system on XV535 models uses a rotor with

permanent magnets that rotates around a stator coil of copper wire.

This produces alternating current, which is converted to direct current

by the regulator/rectifier. The regulator/rectifier also controls the

charging system output.

An electric starter mounted to the front of the engine is standard

equipment. The starter on early models has four brushes; the starter on

later models has two brushes. The starting system includes the motor,

the battery, the relay and the various wires and switches. If the engine

kill switch and the ignition (main key) switch are both in the On

position, the circuit relay allows the starter motor to operate only if the

transmission is in Neutral (Neutral switch on) or the clutch lever is

pulled to the handlebar (clutch switch on) and the sidestarfd is up

(sidestand switch on).

Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once purchased, can't be

returned. To avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the faulty

component has been positively identified before buying a replacement

part.

2 Electrical troubleshooting

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, the

switches, relays, etc. related to that component and the wiring and

connectors that hook the component to both the battery and the

frame. To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit, complete

wiring diagrams of each model are included at the end of this Chapter.

Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit, first study the

appropriate diagrams thoroughly to get a complete picture of what

makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often

be narrowed down by noting if other components related to that circuit

are operating properly or not. If several components or circuits fail at

one time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or ground/earth

connection, as several circuits often are routed through the same fuse

and ground/earth connections.

Electrical problems often stem from simple causes, such as loose

or corroded connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any electrical

troubleshooting, always visually check the condition of the fuse, wires

and connections in the problem circuit. Intermittent failures can be

especially frustrating, since you can't always duplicate the failure when

it's convenient to test. In such situations, a good practice is to clean all

connections in the affected circuit, whether or not they appear to be

good. All of the connections and wires should also be wiggled to

check for looseness which can cause intermittent failure.

If testing instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to

plan where you will make the necessary connections in order to

accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.

The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a

test light or voltmeter, a continuity tester (which includes a bulb,

battery and set of test leads) and a jumper wire, preferably with a

circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical

components. Specific checks described later in this Chapter may also

require an ohmmeter.

Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning

properly. Connect one lead of a test light or voltmeter to either the

negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other

lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the

battery or fuse. If the bulb lights, voltage is reaching that point, which

means the part of the circuit between that connector and the battery is

problem-free. Continue checking the remainder of the circuit in the

same manner. When you reach a point where no voltage is present, the

problem lies between there and the last good test point. Most of the

time the problem is due to a loose connection. Keep in mind that some

circuits only receive voltage when the ignition key is in the On position.

3.4 Always disconnect the negative battery cable first and

reconnect it last to prevent sparks which could cause the battery

to explode; be sure to reinstall the terminal covers for the

same reason

A Negative cable B Positive cable

One method of finding short circuits is to remove the fuse and

connect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There

should be no load in the circuit (it should be switched off). Move the

wiring harness from side-to-side while watching the test light. If the

bulb lights, there is a short to ground/earth somewhere in that area,

probably where insulation has rubbed off a wire. The same test can be

performed on other components in the circuit, including the switch.

A ground/earth,check should be done to see if a component is

grounded properly. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a

self-powered test light (continuity tester) to a known good ground.

Connect the other lead to the wire or ground/earth connection being

tested. If the bulb lights, the ground/earth is good. If the bulb does not

light, the ground/earth is not good.

A continuity check is performed to see if a circuit, section of

circuit or individual component is capable of passing electricity

through it. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-

powered test light (continuity tester) to one end of the circuit being

tested and the other lead to the other end of the circuit. If the bulb

lights, there is continuity, which means the circuit is passing electricity

through it properly. Switches can be checked in the same way.

Remember that all electrical circuits are designed to conduct

electricity from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, etc. to

the electrical component (light bulb, motor, etc.). From there it is

directed to the frame (ground) where it is passed back to the battery.

Electrical problems are basically an interruption in the flow of electricity

from the battery or back to it.

3 Battery - inspection and maintenance

Refer to illustration 3.4

1 Most battery damage is caused by heat, vibration, and/or low

electrolyte levels, so make sure the battery is securely mounted, check

the electrolyte level frequently and make sure the charging system is

functioning properly.

2 Refer to Chapter 1 for electrolyte level aYid specific gravity

checking procedures.

3 Check around the base inside of the battery for sediment, which

is the result of sulfation caused by low electrolyte levels. These

deposits will cause internal short circuits, which can quickly discharge

the battery. Look for cracks in the case and replace the battery if

either of these conditions is found.

4 Check the battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and

corrosion. If corrosion is evident, remove the cables from the battery

(see illustration) and clean the terminals and cable ends with a wire

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