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Trek 2012 Manual

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63 TREK ASSEMBLY MANUAL 27 April 2012
Supporting Information
Truing paired-spoke wheels
In many respects, truing paired-spoke wheels is just like truing a traditionally spoked
wheel. Each spoke has both a vertical and lateral component to its pulling force.
As you tighten a spoke, it pulls the rim radially in towards the hub, and laterally out
towards the hub ange. The dierence is that on a paired-spoke wheel, the lateral
force is directly opposed by each spoke in a given pair.
Some wheels use bladed, non-round spokes. When tightening a nipple on a wheel
with bladed spokes, stabilize the spoke to prevent rotation. Grasp each spoke
with smooth jawed pliers or an adjustable wrench while rotating the nipple with the
Bontrager spoke wrench.
When truing paired-spoke wheels, the design gives you more control over both
vertical and lateral rim deviations. If the rim is slightly out of true but very round, you
can loosen one spoke, and tighten the other, in the pair closest to the rim deviation.
The rim moves laterally, but not up or down. Since no other spokes are directly
aected, you’re done. To move the rim down and to the side, you can tighten just
one spoke.
With a traditionally spoked wheel with a lateral deviation and no hop, you tighten
one spoke, loosen two, and tighten both of the third spokes slightly to balance the
tensions. Five spokes are needed to correct a slight deviation.
If a wheel is true laterally, but out of round, its easy to x with paired spokes. To
move the rim towards the hub, equally tighten both members of a pair.
Wheels built in our factory conform to a maximum vertical deviation of 0.4mm (0.015
inches). A 23c tire with 120 PSI will exhibit more out-of-roundness than this.
With an egg-shaped wheel where 0.3mm height change occurs over 1/2 of the wheel
rotation, the out-of-roundness may be invisible with a normal truing stand.
With paired spokes, the same 0.4mm vertical can show up over a very short section
of the rim. In either case, the rider will not feel it, nor will it eect the ride of the bike.
Consider the much greater magnitudes vertical change met by a rolling wheel. The
tire will be out of round by 1 to 2mm on a 23c tire, more as the casing gets bigger.
A rider sitting on the bike with that same 23c tire at 110PSI (7atm or bars) will
compress the tire by another 2-3mm. Needless to say, normal road surfaces have a
lot more variation than even these.
Adjust the wheel bearings
Most new bearings have a rapid break-in period where the adjustment will quickly
loosen. With this in mind, its better to have the bearings slightly tight on a new bike
so that they become properly adjusted after a ride or two. The alternative is to send
the hub out perfectly adjusted when new, where it will become loose after a ride or
two and without immediate readjustment, possibly damage the hub.
To adjust a front hub, rst loosen the locknut on one side. Then slightly loosen the
cone. On the opposite side of the hub, tighten the locknut against the cone until
they are locked together. Go back to the unlocked side of the hub, and tighten the
cone until nger tight. Tighten the locknut against the cone, and check for end play.
Readjust as necessary.
On rear hubs with a cassette, loosen the left locknut and un-thread the left bearing
until you can get a wrench on the right cone. Lock the right cone against its locknut,
and then adjust the hub from the left side.
… 66 …


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