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Kona 2020 Manual

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KONA OWNER’S MANUAL
2. How brakes work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction
between the braking surfaces. To make sure that you have
maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake
pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean and free of dirt,
lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop
the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at
the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating)
and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most
of your stopping force and all directional control.
You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without
locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake
modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position
where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force,
squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force.
If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just
a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s
important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever
pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on
different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a
little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of
pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow,
but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was
going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel
(or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which
could send you ying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake
pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up
with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your
weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body
toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the
rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease
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rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even
more important on descents, because descents shift weight
forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are
controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This weight
transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front sus-
pension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking, increas-
ing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F). Practice brak-
ing and weight transfer techniques where there is no trafc or
other hazards and distractions.Everything changes when you
ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It will take longer to
stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is re-
duced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction
and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the
brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain
control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
D) SHIFTING GEARS
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain,
an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases,
a combination of the two.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-
changing mechanism will have:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
A) Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting
controls: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination shift/
brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your dealer to
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