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6
6. Embroidery
Embroidery
NEEDLES
The correct needle for embroidery is dependent on the type
of fabric and thread being used.
Always use a new needle when starting an embroidery
design.
For basic embroidery use an INSPIRA™ size 80
Embroidery Needle. You can also use an INSPIRA™
size 80 Universal Needle with a ball point.
THREADS
Embroidery threads create a smooth glossy appearance
for embroidery and other decorative stitching. Any
good quality 40 wt. embroidery thread will work well.
You can use either rayon, which has a nice sheen to it or
polyester, which holds up well during multiple washings.
Specialty threads like metallic, 30 wt. cotton, etc. can be
used but be sure to use a larger needle with a large eye
like an INSPIRA™ size 90 Topstitch Needle. Thread the
sewing machine with the spool in the vertical position
and lower the embroidery speed.
For the bobbin, special embroidery bobbin thread must
be used for good embroidery results. Bobbin thread is
À ner in weight, so more will À t on the bobbin, and it will
not build up bulk in the embroidery.
Pre-wound bobbins are not recommended for your
sewing and embroidery machine.
Regular sewing thread is usually not recommended for
embroidery because it is heavier and builds up too much
bulk as the design stitches out.
STABILIZERS
For the best embroidery results, always place a layer of
stabilizer beneath the fabric. Which stabilizer you choose
will depend on the nature of the fabric on which you are
embroidering. There are a variety of stabilizers available:
tear-away, cut-away, wash-away and those that are removed
by applying heat.
Stabilizers are divided into two main types: Backings (which
go in the hoop behind the fabric), and Toppers (which go
on top of the fabric). Always follow the manufacturer’s
instructions on how to use and apply the stabilizer correctly.
Generally, the stabilizer should be larger in size than
the hoop in which it is being used. When embroidery is
completed, use a À ne point scissor to carefully remove any
excess stabilizer from the embroidery area.
Tear-away stabilizers
Tear-away stabilizers are used with stable woven fabrics.
Place underneath fabric for decorative stitching or hoop
with the fabric when embroidering. Tear away excess
stabilizer after stitching.
Iron-on tear-away
Iron-on tear-away is a totally stable stabilizer that has a slick
side that will iron on to fabric. It is recommended for knits
and all unstable fabrics. Fuse it to the wrong side of the
fabric before decorative stitching or hooping. Tear away
excess stabilizer after stitching.
Cut-away stabilizer
Cut-away stabilizer does not tear so the excess has to be cut
away. It is recommended for knits and all unstable fabrics,
especially for hoop embroidery.
Water soluble stabilizer
Water soluble stabilizer is placed on top of the fabric when
embellishing/embroidering napped and looped fabrics
such as terry cloth. When embroidering cutwork, use it
underneath the fabric. Place your work in water to dissolve
the excess stabilizer. It is available in different thicknesses.
Disintegrating stabilizer
Disintegrating stabilizer is a stable, loosely woven fabric that
is used for techniques such as cutwork and to crochet off
the fabric edge. The stabilizer disappears with heat.
Sticky stabilizer
Sticky stabilizer is used for fabrics that cannot be hooped,
such as velvet, leather, vinyl etc. and pieces of fabric that are
too small to be hooped. Hoop the sticky stabilizer with the
paper side up. Remove the paper and stick the fabric onto
the sticky surface. Tear away sticky stabilizer after stitching.
41


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