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Hikoki CS51EAP Manual

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WARNING
○ This information does not cover all specifi c situations,
which may depend on diff erences in terrain, vegetation,
kind of wood, form and size of trees, etc. Consult
HiKOKI Authorized Service Centers, forestry agent or
local forestry schools for advice on specifi c woodcutting
problems in your area. This will make your work more
effi cient and safer.
○ Avoid cutting in adverse weather conditions, such as
dense fog, heavy rain, bitter cold, high winds, etc.
Adverse weather is often tiring to work in and creates
potentially dangerous conditions such as slippery
ground.
High winds may force the tree to fall in an unexpected
direction causing property damage or personal injury.
CAUTION
Never use a chain saw to pry or for any purpose for
which it is not intended.
WARNING
○ Avoid stumbling on obstacles such as stumps, roots,
rocks, branches and fallen trees. Watch out for holes
and ditches. Be extremely cautious when working on
slopes or uneven ground.
Shut off the engine when moving from one work place to
another.
Always cut at wide open throttle. A slow moving chain
can easily catch and force the chain saw to jerk.
○ Never use the chain saw with only one hand.
You cannot control the chain saw properly and you may
lose control and injure yourself severely.
Keep the chain saw body close to your body to improve
control and reduce strain.
When cutting with the bottom part of the chain the
reactive force will pull the chain saw away from you
towards the wood you are cutting.
The chain saw will control the feeding speed and
sawdust will be directed towards you. (Fig. 22)
○ When cutting with the upper part of the chain the reactive
force will push the chain saw towards you and away from
the wood you are cutting. (Fig. 23)
○ There is a risk of kickback if the chain saw is pushed
far enough so that you begin to cut with the nose of the
guide bar.
The safest cutting method is to cut with the bottom part
of the chain. Sawing with the upper part makes it much
more diffi cult to control the chain saw and increases the
risk of kickback.
○ In case the chain locked, immediately release the throttle
lever.
If the engine keeps rotating at high speed with the chain
locked, the clutch will overheat causing trouble.
NOTE
Always keep the spiked bumper face to a tree, because
the chain may suddenly be drawn into a tree, if so
equipped.
FELLING
Felling is more than cutting down a tree. You must also bring
it down as near to an intended place as possible without
damaging the tree or anything else.
Before felling a tree, carefully consider all conditions which
may eff ect the intended direction, such as:
Angle of the tree. Shape of the crown. Snow load on the
crown.
Wind conditions. Obstacles within tree range (e.g., other
trees, power lines, roads, buildings, etc.).
WARNING
○ Always observe the general conditions of the tree. Look
for decay and rot in the trunk which will make it more
likely to snap and start to fall before you expect it.
○ Look for dry branches, which may break and hit you
when you are working.
Always keep animals and people at least twice the
tree length away while felling. Clear away shrubs and
branches from around the tree.
Prepare a path of retreat away from the felling direction.
BASIC RULES FOR FELLING TREES
Normally the felling consists of two main cutting operations,
notching and making the felling cut. Start making the upper
notch cut on the side of the tree facing the feeling direction.
Look through the kerf as you saw the lower cut so you do
not saw too deep into the trunk. The notch should be deep
enough to create a hinge of suffi cient width and strength.
The notch opening should be wide enough to direct the fall
of the tree as long as possible. Saw the felling cut from the
other side of the tree between one and two inches (3–5 cm)
above the edge of the notch. (Fig. 24)
25. Felling direction
26. 45° minimum notch opening
27. Hinge
28. Felling cut
Never saw completely through the trunk. Always leave a
hinge.
The hinge guides the tree. If the trunk is completely cut
through, you lose control over the felling direction.
Insert a wedge or a felling lever in the cut well before the tree
becomes unstable and starts to move. This will prevent the
guide bar from binding in the felling cut if you have misjudged
the falling direction. Make sure no people have come into the
range of the falling tree before you push it over.
FELLING CUT, TRUNK DIAMETER MORE THAN TWICE
GUIDE BAR LENGTH
Cut a large, wide notch. Then cut a recess into the center of
the notch. Always leave a hinge on both sides of the center
cut. (Fig. 25)
Complete the felling cut by sawing around the trunk as in
the Fig. 26.
WARNING
These methods are extremely dangerous because they
involve the use of the nose of guide bar and can result in
kickback.
Only properly trained professionals should attempt these
techniques.
LIMBING
Limbing is removing the branches from a feller tree.
WARNING
A majority of kickback accidents occur during Iimbing.
Do not use the nose of the guide bar. Be extremely
cautious and avoid contacting the log, other limbs or
objects with the nose of the guide bar. Be extremely
cautious of limbs under tension. They can spring back
towards you and cause loss of control resulting in injury.
(Fig. 27)
Stand on the left side of the trunk. Maintain a secure footing
and rest the chain saw on the trunk. Hold the chain saw
close to you so that you are in full control of it. Keep well
away from the chain. Move only when the trunk is between
you and the chain. Watch out for spring back of limbs under
tension.
LIMBING THICK BRANCHES
When limbing thick branches, the guide bar may get
pinched easily. Branches under tension often snap up, so
cut troublesome branches in small steps. Apply the same
principles as for cross cutting. Think ahead and be aware of
the possible consequences of all your actions.
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