Manual Gezelschapsspellen A Feast for Odin (page 19 of 24) (English)

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Uwe Rosenberg

Rulebook

“A Feast for Odin” is a saga in the form of a board game. You are reliving the cultural achievements, mercantile

expeditions, and pillages of those tribes we know as “Vikings” today—a term that was used quite differently

towards the end of the rst millennium.

When the northerners went out for a raid, they used to say they headed out for a “viking.” Their Scandinavian

ancestors, however, were much more than just pirates. They were explorers and founders of states. Leif Eriksson

is said to be the rst European in America, long before Columbus.

In what is known today as Normandy, the intruders were not called Vikings but “Normans.” One of them is the

famous William the Conqueror who invaded England in 1066. He managed to do what the king of Norway failed

to do only a few years prior: conquer the Throne of England.

The reason why the people of these times became such strong seafarers is due to their unfortunate agricultural

situation. Crop shortfalls caused great distress.

In this game, you will raid and explore new territories. You will also experience their day-to-day activities:

collecting goods to achieve a nancially secure position in society.

In the end, the player whose possessions bear the greatest value will be declared the winner.

Game Boards

1 large action board with action spaces

4 home boards (one for each player)

1 oval supply board for the special tiles

1 small supply

board for the

ships

4 two-sided exploration boards

Dice

1 orange eight-sided

die

1 blue twelve-sided

die

Goods boxes

2 goods boxes to store the goods tiles

15 special tiles

Tiles

Money

125 silver coins, including:

Wooden Goods

2 extension tiles to extend the action board

1 large round overview tile

Building tiles: 3 “shed” building tiles,

3 “stone house” building tiles,

5 “long house” building tiles

8 mountain strips

32 ship tiles, including:

10x whaling boats

12x knarrs 10x longships

32x wood, 24x stone, and 40x ore

Other Wooden Components

Food

front side: farm product

back side: animal product

Animals

front side: livestock

back side: pregnant dam

Equipment

front side: craft product

back side: luxury good

The back of each “Thing Penalty” is

different: 5 wood, 5 stone, 3 ore, 3 bow and

arrow, 3 snares, 3 spears, and 3 long swords.

25x peas / mead

18x sheep / pregnant sheep

15x cattle / pregnant cattle

20x ax / stocksh

20x beans / milk

20x grain / salt meat

17x cabbage / game meat

15x fruits / whale meat

43x oil / rune stone

30x hide / silverware

7 “Thing Penalty” tiles

30x wool / chest

20x linen / silk

20x skin and bones / spices

20x fur / jewelry

18x robe / treasure chest

15x clothing / silver hoard

48 Vikings

(12 for each

player)

1 brown

start player

moose

1 white round

tracking cube

12 plastic bags, 1 appendix,

1 almanac, and this rulebook.

Goods

346 goods tiles, including:

190 Occupations,

divided in three decks A, B, and C

45 light brown

starting occupation

cards

145 dark brown

occupation cards

47 red Weapon cards

12x bow and arrow, 12x snare,

12x spear, 11x long sword

Craft Leader

before the Income phase

if you have

at least

5 Vikings

on Crafting

action spaces

Crafting

2/5/10

Weapons

Supplier

with

1/2/3

longships

80x “1 Silver” 22x “2 Silver”

18x “4 Silver”

5x “10 Silver”

Before Your first Game

Goods

This game comes with a large number of goods tiles. In order to

save you the hassle of storing the tiles in an assortment of plastic

bags, we have provided two goods boxes so that you can better

store and organize the goods tiles.

Each row stores goods of the same color and each column stores

goods of the same shape. Note that orange and red goods of the

same shape are on two sides of the same tile, as are green and

blue goods. Divide these goods (except for sheep and cattle) into

two piles and place each pile in its designated compartment.

For example, every “beans” tile has milk on the other side.

The game provides more tiles than you would normally need,

even more than you can t into the goods boxes. Store any excess

tiles as a reserve in the provided bags.

The following table shows how you should organize the goods

tiles in the goods boxes. The goods boxes have alternating

small and large compartments. In the rst goods box, the small

compartments are reserved for goods of the size of peas and

beans, and the large ones are reserved for goods of the size of ax

and grain. In the second goods box, the small compartments are

meant for goods of the size of cabbage and fruits, and the large

ones for goods of the size of sheep and cattle.

rune

stone

silverware chest silk spices jewelry

treasure

chest

silver hoard

oil hide wool linen

skin and

bones

fur robe clothing

mead stocksh milk salt meat

game

meat

sheep

whale

meat

cattle

peas ax beans grain cabbage fruits

Peas and mead are two sides of the same tile, as are oil and rune

stone. Sheep and cattle are on both sides of their respective tiles.

setup

Action Board and Goods Boxes

Place the large action board in the middle of the table. In a

4-player game, add the two extension tiles to the game board as

shown in the illustration, randomly choosing which side is face

up. (In games with 1 to 3 players, you do not need these tiles.)

Open the goods boxes and place them on the table next to each

other, so that all players can easily access them.

Supply Boards for Special Tiles and Ships

Place the supply boards for special tiles and ships next to the

goods boxes. Aside from the blue standard goods in the top row

of the goods boxes, there is a number of special tiles. Unlike the

standard goods, which are supposed to be in unlimited supply,

there is only one copy of each special tile. They are considered

to be blue and follow the same rules as the blue good tiles.

(Also, the special tiles are the same color on both sides.)

Place the special tiles on the oval supply board. The other supply

board is for the three types of ships. Sort the ships by type and

place them face up in separate stacks on the supply board.

The goods boxes

1 oval supply board for

the special tiles

1 small supply board for the ships

Occupation and Weapon Cards

There is an “A”, “B” or “C” at the bottom right of the occupation

cards, indicating to which deck each card belongs. We recommend

beginners only use cards from deck A, while experienced players

use cards from both deck B and C, or just shufe every deck

together. Sort the occupation cards according to their light or dark

brown back to form two stacks.

An illustration at the top left of the game board indicates what you

receive at the start of the game: Each player draws 1 starting

card from the stack of light brown occupation cards into their

hand. (After that, remove the remaining light brown cards from

the game.) Each player takes 1 “bow and arrow”, 1 “snare”, and

1 “spear” weapon card, as well as 1 “mead” goods tile.

Shufe the remaining weapon cards and place them face down

in a stack on the table. Shufe the occupation cards with a dark

brown back and also place them face down in a stack on the table.

Your Personal Boards and the Vikings

Each player takes a home board.

The home boards are two-sided. One side is for a game lasting

7 rounds (long game), the other for a game lasting over 6 rounds

(short game). Decide how many rounds you wish to play and

place the according side face up.

Each player chooses a color and takes

the 12 Vikings in their color.

Place a Viking on each numbered space of the “Banquet Table”

track (at the top right) of your home board and the rest on the

“Thing Square” (the Vikings’ meeting place). The latter are your

starting Vikings. (Consequently, in the short game, you start the

game with one more Viking.)

To the right of the Thing Square, there is the bay with landing

stages for ships. To the left of the Thing Square, there is the main

placement area for your valuable goods.

Do not open yet!

These are your starting cards along with

1 mead. Always keep all tiles and cards face

up in front of you and visible to all players.

By no means will you need

all of the cards each game.

Set up only part of them and

replenish the stack later, if

need be.

GAME START

Build Houses

Build Ships

Hunting

Livestock

Market

Weekly

Market

Products

Crafting

Mountains

and Trade

Sailing

Emigration

and

Occupation

Shetland

Faroe

Islands

Iceland

Greenland

Bear Island

Baffin Island

Labrador

Newfoundland

withwithwith

with with with withPlunderingPillagingPillagingRaiding

with

any number of withany number of with

per player

from

fromfrom

withwith WhalingWhaling

Hunting

Game

Hunting

Game

Laying a Snare

Your starting card suggests which path

you might want to take during the course

of the game.

Place 7 Vikings on the “Banquet Table” track

(only 6 in the short game).

Thing Square

Banquet TablePlacement area

for goods

Goods

space

Income

diagonal

Landing

stages

Stables for sheep

and cattle

Waiting space for

the solo game

The long game is the main version of the game. We recommend the short game to all players who would like

to familiarize themselves with the game mechanics rst. On the other hand, veteran players who know every

aspect of the game by heart might nd the shorter version more challenging.

-1

Peddler

total cost

Livestock

Market

-1

Peddler

total cost

Livestock

Market

Occupations

dark brown

light brown

Weapons

Mountain Strips, Building Resources, and Silver

Shufe the eight mountain strips and turn two of them face up

(three strips in a 4-player game). The remaining mountain strips

form a face down draw pile. Place the depicted goods on the spaces

of the face up mountain strips.

Sort the remaining wood, stone, ore, and silver tokens by type and

place them ready at hand.

Exploration Boards

Lay out the four exploration boards with their “Shetland”,

“Faroe Islands”, “Iceland”, and “Greenland” sides facing up in

that order.

Building Tiles

Place the “shed”, “stone house”, and “long house” building tiles

in separate stacks on the table.

Overview Tiles

Place the round overview tile on the table and place the white

round tracking cube on space 1.

General overview

How to Play the Game

The basic principle of the game is simple. Each round, you place

your Vikings on the spaces of the action board and take the chosen

actions immediately.

What You Want to Achieve

Your goal is to cover the spaces in the placement area of your

home board with green and blue goods tiles. If you leave gaps,

you can ll them with ore and silver (as shown below).

To get the goods tiles in the rst place, you will either need

to obtain them by raiding (in the Viking fashion) or receive them

in exchange for farm goods.

This information bar depicts how to place goods in the

placement area of your home board. The green and blue color

stands for the respective goods.

Overseas trading plays a special role in all of this. It allows you to turn any number of different green goods (representing craft

products) into blue luxury goods in a single action. (How turning a lot of green goods into blue ones may benet you is explained

in the “Anytime Actions” section on page 12.)

Because each action space can only

be occupied once per round, you will

quickly get in each other’s way.

Mountain strips at the start of a game

with up to 3 players

The letters A to D on the bottom

right of the boards indicate their

front sides.

At any time, you can place

tiles, ore tokens and silver

coins from your supply onto

your home board. Once on

your home board, you cannot

take them back.

Ore

Silver

Income

The big numbers across the placement area of your home board

represent income values. The smallest visible income value

indicates your income for the current round (described further on

page 9).

Bonus

Some spaces of your home board feature goods symbols.

There are ve goods spaces on

your home board.

You receive these goods each

round as a bonus once you have

covered all spaces surrounding

them.

• Sooner or later you may wish to cover the goods spaces to

increase your income. (By doing so, you forfeit the bonus.)

In the rst example, the

mead space was covered.

In this one, it is completely

enclosed. Here, you would

get a bonus of 1 mead each

round.

• During the game, you can explore new territories and add them

to your home board. You will need ships to do so.

To explore Iceland, for instance,

you would need a knarr

or a longship.

What You Get Points For

At the end of the game, you will add the values of

your ships, houses, exploration boards, and goods.

Points are indicated by the shield symbol.

Your large ships can increase in value if you use them

for emigration. (Simply turn them to the other side when

that happens.)

After each emigration, you

will have one fewer ship at

your disposal (here:

a longship).

Your home board and the exploration boards have spaces that you

must cover with goods tiles to avoid negative points.

“Fur” can be effectively worth

8 points if you use it to cover

eight spaces with negative points.

The sheds, stone houses, and long houses also have spaces with

negative points, which you should cover with goods tiles.

• Sheds require wood and stone.

• The stone and long houses are special in that they allow you to

place orange and red food tiles in them as well as the usual

green and blue goods and silver coins, but not ore.

Note the two supporting pillars in the center of the long house:

these cannot be covered.

This information bar depicts how to place

goods in the placement areas of your houses

(further described on page 12).

You gain additional points for sheep and cattle, which breed every

other round, and for the occupation cards you have played.

The back sides of the animal

tiles show pregnant dams.

These are worth 1 additional

point.

Occupations can be worth negative points. In

this example, the Undertaker is worth -1 point.

The home board on the previous

page would generate an income of

2 silver.

placed a rune stone

on an exploration

board

Undertaker

100

Course of plaY

Randomly determine who receives the grey start player moose. The long game is played over 7 rounds (the short game over

6 rounds).

Each round consists of the following 12 phases, which are played

one after another in that order.

Phase 1: A New Viking

Take the leftmost Viking from the “Banquet Table” of your home

board and place it with your other Vikings on the Thing Square.

(The now empty space indicates the number of the current round.)

Each round, including the rst,

you receive a new Viking.

Phase 2: Harvest

Below the new round number, there is note indicating what you

will receive during harvest.

Long game:

• During harvest, you can only get orange goods.

• Take the goods from the general supply and place them in your

personal supply.

The numbers on the tiles mean:

You receive one of each crop with a 1: peas, beans, and ax .

You receive one of each crop with a 1 or 2: peas, beans, ax,

and grain.

You receive one of each crop with a 1, 2, or 3: peas, beans,

ax, grain, and cabbage.

You receive one of each crop with a 1, 2, 3, or 4: peas, beans,

ax, grain, cabbage, and fruits.

“No Harvest” means you do not get any goods in the harvest

phase of that round.

Phase 3: Turn Exploration Boards and Placing Silver

In the action phase (phase 5), you can use your ships to claim

additional placement areas on the exploration boards. Some

exploration boards are available at the start, others become

available later. This is why each exploration board that has not

been claimed by a player is turned to its back side at some point.

A symbol below the harvest notes on your home board indicates

when to turn each exploration board.

In round 3 (round 2 in the short game), turn Shetland,

introducing Bear Island.

In round 4 (round 3 in the short game), turn the Faroe

Islands, introducing Bafn Island.

In round 5 (round 4 in the short game), turn Iceland,

introducing Labrador.

In round 6 (round 5 in the short game), turn Greenland,

introducing Newfoundland.

Increasing the Value of an Unclaimed Exploration Board

Each round in which you should turn an exploration board (short

game: rounds 2 to 5; long game: rounds 3 to 6), place 2 silver on

each unclaimed exploration board not being turned. Exploration

boards that players have already taken do not receive silver.

• When you turn an exploration board with silver on it, return the

silver to the general supply.

• Place silver on the other exploration boards even if the

exploration board that is supposed to be turned has already been

claimed by a player.

• There is no phase 3 in the rst and last round. In those rounds,

no exploration board is turned and no silver is placed on any

of them.

We will explain the rules for the game with 2 to 4 players rst.

The solo game rules can be found on page 23.

Example: In round 3, 2 silver are

placed on the Faroe Islands. In

round 4, the Faroe Islands are

turned to become Bafn Island

and the 2 silver placed there last

round are returned to the general

supply.

When you explain the game, it is a good idea to mention the goal of the game rst and the phases of a round

shortly after. You can show that the game is played over six or seven rounds by pointing the players to the seven

Vikings on the “Banquet Table”. Once they are focused on that, you can easily explain the rst three phases

with the information provided below it.

Phase 4: Draw a New Weapon

Each players draws a new weapon card and places it face up in

their supply.

You could draw a long sword, the only

type of weapon you do not have from

the start.

Phase 5: Actions

Beginning with the start player and in clockwise order, take

one or more Vikings from your Thing Square and place them

on exactly one unoccupied action space of the action board.

Continue doing so until all players have passed or placed all of

their available Vikings.

• You can pass even if you have Vikings left in your Thing Square.

Once you have passed, you cannot place any more Vikings that

round. (When you have none left, you must pass.)

Important: each action space can only be occupied once per round.

Another important rule: each action space in the rst column

requires one Viking to activate. Each action space in the

second/third/fourth column requires two/three/four Vikings,

respectively.

The effect of each action space is explained in the next major

section (starting on page 14). You can tell what most effects do

from their illustration.

• You must use an action space immediately after you occupy it.

To occupy an action space, you must use at least one of its effects

(paying a cost is also considered an effect in and of itself).

• The action spaces on the action board are

organized in groups of similar effects. The

wood grain background helps to emphasize

this. The type of action spaces in each group

is stated in the left margin of the action board.

Also, note the actions you can take at any time

during the course of the game (see page 12).

• The action phase ends as soon as all players have placed all of

their Vikings or passed.

• Due to the varying number of Vikings that are required on each

action space, some players can run out of Vikings earlier than

others. A player without Vikings must pass. Continue until all

players have passed.

Phase 6: Determine Start Player

The player who placed Vikings last in the action phase receives

the start player moose and will be the start player in the next

action phase.

Phase 7: Income

During the game, you will place green, blue goods tiles, ore tokens

and silver coins on your home board. The smallest uncovered

value on the “income diagonal” indicates the amount of silver

you receive this phase.

• Important: You must cover the income values in ascending

diagonal order. This is explained further on page 12

(Anytime Actions).

During your rst play, you might be

overwhelmed by the sheer number of

action spaces. Concentrate in the early

game on exploring the available options.

Use the rst few rounds to prepare yourself

for what is to come. You will take the really

important and crucial actions later.

This game differentiates between income

and bonuses. Income is paid in silver

(this phase), bonuses are paid in goods

(phase 10).

In this example, “5” is the

smallest uncovered value, so

you would receive an income of

5 silver.

• By claiming exploration boards, you can produce additional

income. Income from an exploration board is handled like

income from your home board (see also appendix, page 15).

Phase 8: Animal Breeding

At the bottom right of your home board, you can nd storage

spaces (stables) for your “sheep” and “cattle” goods tiles. Please

note that these tiles show the same animal on both sides—one

side shows the non-pregnant animal, the other the pregnant one.

In this phase, your animals breed, according to the following rules:

• If you have at least 1 sheep with the “pregnant sheep” side

facing up, turn all of them to the other side and take 1 “sheep”

tile for each tile you just turned (and place them with the “non-

pregnant” side facing up in your stable).

• If you have at least 2 sheep but no “pregnant sheep”, turn 1 of

them to the “pregnant sheep” side.

The same applies to cattle.

Examples of Animal Breeding:

• You have three sheep, one of which is pregnant. The pregnant one

gets a newborn, the other two remain non-pregnant. Afterward

you have four non-pregnant sheep.

• You have four non-pregnant sheep. Still, you can only turn one

of them to the pregnant side.

• You have two sheep, one of which is pregnant. During the action

phase, you spend the non-pregnant one. In the breeding phase

of that round, you are now left with a single pregnant sheep. It

still receives a newborn, even though it is the only sheep in the

stable. (C’est la vie.)

Phase 9: Feast

This phase focuses on the spaces of the “Banquet Table” track

with no Vikings.

In this example: 3 spaces have Vikings on them, 9 are empty.

Place orange and red food tiles from your supply (or stable)

and/or “1 silver” coins on each empty space of the “Banquet

Table”, according to the following rules:

• Orange tiles (farm products) cannot be placed next to each other.

• Red tiles (animal products) also cannot be placed next to

each other.

• Silver coins can be placed next to each other.

(Ore cannot be placed on the “Banquet Table”.)

• One tile of each type may be placed horizontally to take up

more space at the table (like salt meat in the example below). All

other tiles of that type must be placed vertically (square tiles are

exempt from this rule, as it does not matter).

You should serve salt meat only once per feast to be efcient.

Bean dishes, on the other hand, can be served multiple times

without penalty.

Every tile you place on the “Banquet Table” must cover at least

one of the squares below the table and t in the allowed space

(it cannot overhang). If you are not careful, you may have to

inefciently place several tiles vertically to follow this rule.

When explaining the game, now is a good time to explain, in

detail, the placement of green and blue goods tiles on your

home board. Income is where these rules really matter a lot.

Earlier, on page 6, we gave a general overview of these rules.

A more elaborate explanation will follow on page 12.

Now let us continue with the sequence of a round.

Consequently, your sheep and cattle can

breed every 2 rounds.

These rules are also depicted below the Banquet Table.

The designer’s love for bean dishes

should be well-known. Vikings were very

thoughtful about what they ate. Too much

salt meat is unhealthy.

Thing Penalty

• For each space of your “Banquet Table” on which you could

not or did not want to place anything, you must take a “Thing

Penalty” tile and place it in your supply. You must keep these

tiles for the rest of the game. (This should not happen too often,

because the feast happens after you receive income. Income

should always provide enough silver to cover the spaces.)

At the end of the game, you lose 3 points for each penalty tile

you have.

At the end of this phase, move the goods on your “Banquet Table”

to the general supply.

This empty space means you must take a penalty tile.

Phase 10: Bonus

Some spaces in the placement area of your home board show a

goods symbol. These spaces count as already covered, but you

can cover them with goods tiles, if need be (according to the

placement rules, see “Anytime Actions” on page 12). If you leave

a goods space uncovered, but instead cover the 8 spaces around it,

you will receive that good as a bonus each round.

The depicted ore space is on the edge of the

placement area, so you only need to cover ve

spaces around it to receive ore as a bonus.

• You receive your bonus all at the

same time.

Phase 11: Update and Add New Mountain Strips

Mountain strips provide building resources that you can get

during the action phase (see the “Mountain and Trading Actions”

on page 15).

Acquire your resources here.

• In this phase, remove the leftmost resource (i.e., closest to the

arrow) from each face-up mountain strip and return it to the

general supply (this can be wood, stone, ore or silver).

If all spaces are empty, remove the mountain strip.

• Then turn a new mountain strip face up and place the depicted

goods on it. (This way there can be more face-up mountain strips

than at the start of the game.)

At the left, the mountain strip at the top is about to be removed.

At the right, the mountain strip at the bottom has just been

added.

• In the 4-player long game, there are not enough mountain strips

for all 7 rounds. You simply do not add any in round 7.

Phase 12: Remove Placed Vikings from the Action Board

Return your Vikings from the action board to your Thing Square.

(Then proceed with phase 1 of the next round.)

Tip for experienced players: if you place goods tiles in your placement area before the income phase, you will

then receive silver that you can use right away to possibly get bonuses as well. (For instance, the silver that

enabled the ore bonus in the example above could have been silver the player received that round.)

The player whose home board is

shown to the left would receive

1 mead, 1 wood, 1 stone, and 1 ore

each round.

Anytime Actions

There is a variety of actions you can take literally at any time

during the game (usually even during a main action).

Placing Goods on the Home Board

As mentioned several times before, at any time, you can place

green craft products and blue luxury goods as well as silver coins

and ore tokens on empty spaces in the placement area of your

home board, according to the following rules:

The spaces with the big numbers (0, 1, 2, 3, …) form the

“income diagonal” (see “Income” on page 9). You can only

cover a space in the income diagonal if you also cover (or have

already covered) all spaces:

• to the left of that space,

• below that space,

• as well as all spaces in the square to the bottom left of

the space.

Spaces with goods symbols are considered covered already.

• The placement areas depict growing squares in order to remind

you of these placement rules.

• Green tiles cannot be orthogonally adjacent to other

green tiles (diagonal adjacency is allowed). (An

illustration on your home board reminds you of that.)

• Blue tiles can be adjacent to other blue tiles, as can silver coins

to other silver coins, and ore tokens to other ore tokens.

• When you place a goods, you cannot place it on top of another

goods that is already there (not even partially). You can, however,

cover spaces with goods symbols (see Bonus on page 7). Keep

in mind, goods spaces are considered covered already

• Each goods you place must be placed within the bounds of the

placement area.

The home board has three

additional spaces at the top

right, so that you can place

bigger tiles like the treasure

chest during the end game.

• The special tiles are considered to be blue and follows the same

rules as the blue good tiles.

Here is an example of how to cover the spaces in the top right

corner without covering the income spaces that you are not

allowed to cover.

In the early game, you can cover

3 numbers with a single tile (here:

using a robe). (Unfortunately, if

you do, you will also cover the

mead space, losing a potential

mead bonus.)

In the example depicted

to the left, you could

place a “skin and

bones” or “ wool” tile

to cover income spaces

“3” and “4” at the

same time, because by

doing so all required

spaces will also be

covered.

Occasionally, players will ignore this rule

unintentionally. If you notice the mistake

too late, see page 23 for a way to handle

that.

To avoid negative points, you are explicitly

allowed to place goods wherever you like

in the placement area, as long as you do

not cover income spaces that you are not

allowed to cover (see the example below).

Placing Goods on the Exploration Boards

As with the home board: at any time, you may place green craft

products and blue luxury goods as well as silver coins and ore

tokens on empty spaces of the exploration boards, according to

the same rules.

A lot of goods spaces on the exploration boards are surrounded

by less than 8 other spaces, which makes it easier to enclose them

for the bonus.

To unlock the rune stone and ore bonus on Bear Island, you only

need to cover six spaces.

Placing Goods on the House Tiles

At any time, you may place orange farm goods, red animal

products, green craft products, and blue luxury goods as well as

silver coins on empty spaces of your houses.

Orange tiles cannot be orthogonally adjacent to other orange tiles,

and red tiles cannot be orthogonally adjacent to other red tiles

(diagonal adjacency is allowed, as shown in the illustration on

the house tiles). Note that you cannot cover the pillar spaces in the long house.

The following applies to all of the anytime actions:

Once you place a goods tile on a board or house, you cannot take

it back.

You may, of course, test tile placements in order to plan ahead, as

long as you take them back before continuing.

During phases 7 and 10, all income and bonuses are generated

at the same time; consequently, you may not use the income/

bonuses from one board to place game pieces on another board

in the same phase.

Buying Ships

At any time, you may buy a ship by paying its cost in silver. The

cost of a ship is equal to its value (also depicted on the supply

board for ships). Instead of buying ships, you may build them

with wood by using a “Ship Building” action space (see page 15).

• The whaling boats are small boats.

• Knarrs and longships are considered “large ships.”

Each ship you acquire must be placed in your bay, on a landing

stage of appropriate size (you cannot place whaling boats on the

larger spaces).

Changing Silver

At any time, you may make change with your silver

coins. Silver comes in denominations of “1 silver”,

“2 silver”, “4 silver”, and “10 silver”.

Arming

At any time (including immediately before, but not during an

action), you may place ore from your supply on the designated

spaces of your whaling boats and longships.

You may not take back the ore you place on your ships.

Although you cannot take back tiles once

you placed them, we still recommend

you place as many as you can before the

income and bonus phases. Especially the

large tiles as they belong on the boards

and not in your supply.

Note that there might be spaces in the

center of an exploration board that

you are not allowed to cover with

goods, like the “5” on Bear Island.

These spaces have a very prominent

green border.

Each whaling boat costs 3 silver,

each knarr 5 silver, and

each longship 8 silver.

The silver coins are designed such that

you can place them in the placement areas

and houses.

Longship are used for raiding and pillaging

(see pages 17 - 18).

Whaling boats are used for whaling (see

page 18). They show 1 preprinted ore and

provide space for 1 more ore.

The knarr costs 5 silver.

Occupations

Many occupations provide actions you can take at any time. (see

page 21).

The blue background color indicates an anytime action on an

occupation card.

Giving Away

You cannot simply give away or discard goods, ships, boards, or

cards outside of an action.

The Action Spaces

The action board features a variety of action spaces. (How and

when to use them has been explained in the “Phase 5: Actions”

section on page 9.)

General rule:

Some actions require you to have a specic type of ship. You may

use the same ship multiple times per round for different actions.

Example: You have a single longship in your bay. With this ship,

you can

• head out on a raid rst

• then explore “Newfoundland”,

• and emigrate that same round.

Production spaces

On the green spaces of the action board,

you receive exactly what is depicted,

e.g., 1 stocksh.

In particular:

Here, you receive 1 milk if you have

1 cattle, 2 milk if you have 2 cattle, and

3 milk if you have 3 or more cattle.

Here, you receive 1 wool if you have

1 sheep, 2 wool if you have 2 sheep, and

3 wool if you have 3 or more sheep.

Here, you receive 1 spices and 1 silver.

Additionally, you receive 2 milk if you

have at least 1 cattle, and 1 wool if you

have at least 1 sheep.

On this space, you receive wood and ore

from the general supply. While you only

ever get 1 ore here, you also get 1 wood

per player: in a 1/2/3/4 player game, this is

1/2/3/4 wood.

In general:

If a good costs silver, the price is printed

below a purse icon at the left of the action

space. 1 cattle and 1 milk cost a total of

3 silver.

Farmer

(or )

You can return such

ore to your supply.

from

Modifier

All the actions mentioned in the example

above are explained on the following

pages. Most action spaces (like the

production spaces) have a rather simple

effect, so we will explain those rst.

Tip: Most new players overrate the Weekly Market. Your Vikings are well provided for during the harvests.

Usually, you will not need much more food than that.

On the other hand, they tend to overlook the long-term potential of animal breeding.

Exchange Spaces

The dark yellow action spaces relate to house building, ship

building, and crafting. On these, you exchange something (usually

building resources from your supply) for something else, but only

once. In particular:

On the action space at the top left of the

game board, you can pay 2 wood to receive

a shed (see page 13 for what it does).

Here, you may build a “stone house” and “long house” for 1 and

2 stone, respectively (see page 13 for what they do).

Note that the number of shed and house tiles is limited.

Here, you may build the indicated ship (and only that ship) for

1 or 2 wood:

The number of ships is not limited. The only limitation is the

number of landing stages in your bay: you can only have up to

3 whaling boats and up to 4 large ships (knarrs, longships).

On this space, you can choose what to get

for 2 stone and 2 wood: either you take

a stone house and a longship, or a long

house and a knarr.

Here, you may exchange an orange “ax”

tile for the larger and more valuable green

“linen” tile.

On this space, you may spend green “hide”

and “linen” tiles to make “clothing”, for

which you also receive 2 silver.

At the Smithy, you may spend 1 ore to

receive a tile with a forge tongs symbol.

Jewelry tiles show a forge tongs symbol …

… as well as all the special tiles.

Here, you receive 4 silver. Additionally,

you may exchange a green “wool” tile for

a “robe” tile, and/or a blue “silverware”

tile for a “jewelry” tile.

On these three action spaces, you can exchange stone and/or wood

or ore for blue “rune stone” and “chest” tiles. On the rst two of

these spaces, you also receive 1 silver.

Playing a single occupation costs 1 stone

or 1 ore, and you receive 1 silver (see

also “Occupation” on page 20).

Here, you may exchange a whaling boat* for

a knarr (if you wish), before using that knarr

or another large ship to emigrate (more on

emigration on page 17).

* If the whaling boat you exchange has ore

on it, you lose that ore.

Mountain and Trading Actions

Mountain Actions

Some of the golden brown action spaces allow you to take

building resources and silver from mountain strips.

When taking resources from a mountain strip, always

take them from left to right (i.e., goods closest to the

arrow rst).

The 2 silver at the right are considered a single

item. After taking the last “2 silver”, remove the

mountain strip from the game.

The “Take 2 Building Resources” action

allows you to take (up to) 2 items from one

mountain strip of your choice.

You may choose a mountain strip with fewer resources than you

are allowed to take (you may not take resources from another

mountain strip to make up for it).

The “Take 3+2 Building Resources” action

allows you to take (up to) 3 items from one

mountain strip and (up to) 2 items from another

mountain strip. You may not take 5 resources

from the same mountain strip.

For instance, you could take 3 wood from one mountain strip, and

an ore and the silver from another.

The “Take 2+2+2+2 Building Resources”

action allows you to take (up to) 2 items

each from (up to) four mountain strips.

Here, you cannot take 4 or 6 items from

one mountain strip.

Trading Actions

The other golden brown action spaces allow you to exchange

goods in your supply for more valuable ones.

The “ñ1 Good” action allows you to exchange exactly 1 goods

tile for the next more valuable one: either an orange for a red one,

or a red for a green one, or a green for a blue one. The old and

new tile must have the same shape and dimensions.

For example, you could use a

“ñ 1 Good” action to exchange

“game meat” for “skin and bones”

once.

The “ñ2 Goods” action allows you to

exchange up to 2 goods tiles for the next

more valuable one. Both tiles may be of the

same type, but you may not “upgrade” a

single tile twice (from orange to green, or

from red to blue).

The “ññ2Goods” action allows you

to “upgrade” 2 goods twice: you may

exchange an orange good for a green one,

or a red good for a blue one. (In addition,

you also take 4 resources from one

mountain strip.)

Other action spaces on the game action board allow you to

exchange more than 2 goods.

One of the action spaces described here

also provides 4 weapon cards. This means

you draw 4 random weapons (and place

them face up in front of you).

Blue, yellow, red, and brown action spaces are special. Blue

stands for overseas trading, yellow for emigration, red for hunting,

raiding, and pillaging. Brown is the color of occupation cards.

Knarr Action Spaces

Blue is the color of action spaces that require a knarr, providing

blue luxury goods for trade.

Overseas Trading

The two “Overseas Trading” action spaces are located in the rst and

second column of the action board. On overseas trading spaces, you

can pay 1 silver to turn any number of different green goods tiles to

their blue side. To do so, however, you must have at least one knarr

in your bay.

• Green tiles in the placement areas of your boards may not be

turned to their blue sides (you may not bypass the rule that

disallows the placement of green tiles next to each other).

Special Sale

The “Special Sale” action space is located in the third column of

the action board.

Each special tile shows a silver cost. If you have at

least one knarr, you can buy (up to) 2 special tiles

by paying their cost. (The English Crown is the only

special tile that may not be bought. We did ask Her

Majesty Queen Elizabeth II when she was in Frankfurt

on June 25th, 2015. She rejected our request in her

usual polite manner.)

The Glass Beads cost nothing; the Helmet

costs 1 silver.

Before you exchange your goods for more

valuable ones via “ñGoods” actions,

check how many and which goods you will

need for the Feast phase. We recommend

you place those goods on the “Banquet

Table” during the action phase ahead

of time.

In this example, during a single “Overseas Trading” action, you may turn

1 oil, 1 hide, 1 wool, 1 linen, and 1 clothing to their blue sides. (The other linen

tile must remain on its green side.)

Emigration

Yellow is the color of emigration. On “Emigration” action spaces,

you may turn a knarr or a longship* in your possession to its back

side and place it on the leftmost space of your “Banquet Table.”

This tile is no longer a ship, but it reduces the amount of food you

have to serve during a feast (see page 10).

The next time you emigrate, place the second ship to the right of

the rst one. As you can see, each time you emigrate, you need

less food for the feast. In this example, the next feast will only

require covering 5 spaces.

• To take this action, you must pay an amount of silver equal to

the current round.

• In the very rare case that you emigrated so frequently that there

is no more space for another ship on the Banquet Table, you

cannot take the emigration action anymore.

* You lose the ore on the longship, if any.

Raiding, Pillaging, and Hunting

Red action spaces provide actions that require you to roll a die.

The orange eight-sided die is used on

action spaces that depict an orange die

symbol. The same applies to the blue

twelve-sided die on action spaces with a

blue die symbol.

In general:

When raiding (with the orange die) and pillaging (with the blue

die), you want to roll high.

On spaces with a die symbol at the top of the action board, you

want to roll low.

In each case, you may roll the die up to three times. (Each re-roll

invalidates the previous roll.) You can stop rolling at any time.

When nished (and after modifying the roll, if need be), announce

your battle result. Then declare your die action a success or

failure.

The following action spaces are each followed by an example.

Raiding

To take a “Raiding” action, you must have at

least one longship. It does not matter whether

or not there is ore on the ship (see “Anytime

Actions” on page 12), because you may not

use it for this action anyway.

Success

Every blue goods tile has a

sword value. After you roll the

orange eight-sided die, you can

take exactly one blue goods tile

with a sword value equal to or

lower than you rolled.* Each

stone and “long sword” weapon

card you spend increases your

die roll by 1 (even above 8). This

modied value is considered

your “battle result.”

Failure

Your raid automatically

fails if your battle result

is 5 or less.

Regardless of the

result, you may

willingly declare your

raid a failure. Upon

failure, you receive a

consolatory 1 stone and

1 long sword**** from

the general supply.

You do not lose any Vikings in the process

of emigration. (Your Viking gures

represent the leaders of your tribes, and

they would never abandon you.)

At the left of the “Raiding” action space, there are stone

and sword symbols. These symbols serve two purposes.

• They show which goods and weapons you may spend to

increase your roll.

• They remind you of the consolation prize you receive upon

failure.

The symbols on the “Pillaging” and “Hunting” action spaces

are to be treated the same way.

Sword value

Example of a Failed Raiding Attempt

You have a longship and take a “Raiding” action.

The amount of ore on your longship is irrelevant,

because you may not use it for raiding anyway. You

take the orange die and roll 4 on your rst roll, and 5 on the

second. You want to do better, but you only roll 3 on your nal

roll. If you spend 2 stone and 1 long sword, the most you could

get would be a battle result of 6, which is a rune stone. You

decide it is better to declare the raid a failure and take your

consolatory 1 stone and 1 long sword.

Pillaging

As with “Raiding”, you want to roll high when pillaging.

To do so, you must have a longship. If you have more than one

longship, you must use the longship with the most ore on it.

Success

When pillaging, add 1 to

your dice roll for each ore

on your longship (even

above 12), keeping the

ore. After you roll the blue

twelve-sided die, you can

take exactly one blue goods

tile with a sword value

equal to or lower than you

rolled.* You can spend stone

and long swords from your

supply to increase the roll

by 1 per item spent. This

modied value is considered

your “battle result”.

Failure

Your raid automatically

fails if your battle result is

5 or less. You may willingly

declare it a failure, regardless

of the result.

Upon failure, you receive

a consolatory 1 stone and

1 long sword**** from the

general supply. Additionally,

after each failed pillaging

attempt, you may return

1 Viking from the respective

action space to your Thing

Square and use it again later

that round.

The English Crown has the highest sword

value and is worth 2 points.

At the bottom left of the “Pillaging” action spaces,

you can see a Viking symbol and an arrow pointing

left. This is a reminder of the consolatory Viking you

receive upon failure.

* When taking a blue goods tile, you can take a regular blue tile

or one of the special tiles (on the oval supply board).

Example of a Successful Pillaging Attempt

You have a longship and 2 ore on it. You have 1 ore in your

supply, which you decide to place on the longship before you

take a “Pillaging” action. You take the blue die and roll 4 on

your rst roll. You could stop here, but you want to do better.

Your second roll is 6. Since you only have one roll left, you

decide to stop right here. You spend 1 long sword for a nal

battle result of 10: 6 from the roll, 3 from the ore on your

longship, and 1 from the long sword. With that battle result,

you take 1 “Jewelry” goods tile.

Hunting Game, Laying a Snare and Whaling

When hunting game and laying a snare, you roll the orange eight-

sided die. When whaling, you roll the blue twelve-sided die. In all

of these cases, you want to roll low.

Success

When whaling, reduce the

value of your roll by one for

each ore (even preprinted

ore) on the whaling boat(s)

you are using to perform the

action (you keep the ore).

This can lead to a negative

value; any negative value is

treated as a 0.

Then, in every case (Hunting

Game, Laying a Snare and

whaling), pay a number

of wood and/or proper

weapons** equal to this

value to declare a successful

action and receive the reward

depicted on the action

space.***

Failure

If you declare your attempt

at this action a failure, you

do not have to pay anything.

(You may not declare a result

of 0 as a failure.)

Upon failure, you receive

a consolatory 1 wood and

1 weapon**** of the proper

type** from the general

supply. Additionally, when

you fail laying a snare, you

may return 1 Viking from

the action space to your

Thing Square. When you

fail whaling, you may even

return 2 Vikings. You may

use the returned Vikings

again later that round.

Let us talk a little bit about the luck factor in this game. Rolling

dice is frowned upon in development games—with good

reason. In this game, failure is designed such that it is only

marginally worse than, for example, taking 2 stone (compared

to stone and long sword) or 2 wood (see failure in the next

section) from a mountain strip. When you fail,

your next roll is more likely to succeed. Bad

rolls do not prevent success, they just delay it

a little. For me, it is an essential part of the

game to provide that feeling of adventure.

** These are “bow and arrow”, “snare”, and “spear” for hunting

game, laying a snare, and whaling, respectively.

*** For hunting game, you receive 1 hide and 1 game meat.

For laying a snare, you receive 1 fur and 1 “snare” weapon

card. For whaling, you receive 1 oil, 1 “skin and bones”

tile, and 1 whale meat.

Example of a Failed Game Hunting Attempt

You take a “Hunting Game” action. Since the “Hunting

Game” action space in the rst column is already taken, you

place 2 Vikings on the “Hunting Game” action space in the

second column. You take the orange die and try to roll low.

Your rst roll is 3, but you are not happy about it. So you try

again and roll 7, which is way too high. Your third roll is 4.

If you spent, for instance, 2 wood and

2 “bow and arrow” weapon cards, you

could declare the hunt a success, but you

decide that the cost is too high. So you

declare your attempt a failure and receive

your consolatory 1 wood and 1 “bow and

arrow” weapon card. (Even though you

failed, you do not receive a Viking back.

You would only receive one back after a

failed “Laying a Snare” attempt, which works much the same

as “Hunting Game”—the only difference being that you would

use snares instead.)

**** When you receive a consolatory weapon card (for failing)

or a reward snare (for successfully laying a snare), take

this weapon from the face up discard pile. If you cannot

nd one in there, look through the draw pile and take it

from there. Then shufe the draw pile.

2 (your die roll) minus

2 (ore on the ship)

equals a result of 0.

If your battle result is 0, you may not declare the attempt a failure.

You must stop immediately, and you may not re-roll.

At the bottom left of the “Whaling” action spaces, you

can see two Viking symbols and an arrow pointing left.

This reminds you of the 2 consolatory Vikings you can

return to your Thing Square on failure.

Peculiarities of Whaling

There are two different “Whaling” action spaces.

On the major “Whaling” action space

(at the left), you can use one to three

of your whaling boats. In column 4 (at

the right), there is a minor “Whaling”

action space, on which you can only use

a single whaling boat.

Example of a Successful Whaling Attempt

You have 2 whaling boats, each equipped with 1 additional ore.

Before you take the “Whaling” action in the third column of

the action board, you decide to purchase another whaling boat,

but you have no ore to place on it. You take the blue die and

roll 8 on your rst roll. If you stopped right here, you would

have to pay 3 spears/wood to be successful, because the 5 ore

on your whaling boats would reduce the 8 to 3. So you roll

again, rolling 4 on your second roll. Subtracting 5 from that

results in a negative value, which is treated as a 0. Since your

roll resulted in 0, you must stop immediately and declare your

attempt a success.

The “Plundering” action space is also

considered a red action space. Here, you can

extort ransom money in the form of a blue

“silver hoard” goods tile without battle—but

you must have at least two longships to do so.

When given the choice to spend a weapon

instead of wood, spend the weapon. As

with real life, wood is more versatile than

weapons.

You may wonder why whaling with 3 whaling boats only

requires 3 Vikings, while whaling with a single whaling boat

requires 4. The latter is only a minor action space, meaning it

is intended for players for whom whaling is just a side project,

since they have so few whaling boats.

Similarly, there are two types of action spaces

that require a longship. Pillaging works best

with longships that are equipped with lots

of ore. Raiding and Plundering can be done

with longships that are low on ore.

Hunting game Laying a snare Whaling

Exploration

Orange is the color of exploration. By exploring, you may

add exploration boards to your home board to gain additional

placement areas. There are four unique exploration boards—

which side faces up depends on the current round (see phase 3

of a round on page 8). When taking an exploration action, place

the required number of Vikings on the action space and take the

corresponding exploration board.

If there is silver on the exploration board you claim, place it in

your supply.

The exploration boards are explained in detail on page 15 of the

appendix.

• In order to take “Shetland” or “Faroe Islands”

exploration board, you must have a whaling

boat, knarr, or longship, and you must place

1 Viking. This is only possible on the action

space requiring 1 Viking.

• “Iceland”, “Greenland”, and “Bear Island”

each require a knarr or longship, as well as

2 Vikings.

• Places on the American continent (“Bafn

Island”, “Labrador”, and “Newfoundland”)

each require 3 Vikings and a longship.

In all of the above cases, you keep the ship you explore with.

Occupation

You start the game with a single light brown occupation card (see

Setup), which you keep hidden in your hand. During the game,

you will receive additional dark brown occupation cards. You

must play an occupation card before you can use its effect (see

also the following section “About the Occupation Card Effects”).

On this action space, you draw a random dark

brown occupation card from the draw pile

and put it into your hand. Additionally, you

receive 1 silver.

Here, you may pay 1 stone or 1 ore to play an

occupation card from your hand. Additionally,

you receive 1 silver.

Here, you may play up to 2 occupation cards

from your hand, one after another.

On this action space, you may play up to

4 occupation cards from your hand, one

after another. (An interesting interaction

between this action space and another rule

is explained below.)

Bonus for Placing Three Vikings

Each time you place the three required Vikings on an action space

in the third column, before taking the action, you receive a dark

brown occupation card from the draw pile into your hand. You

may look at that card immediately. (This bonus is only available

on action spaces in the third column.)

The previously mentioned action space is located in the third

column. It is the only action space, on which you may draw an

occupation card and play it right away.

Bonus for Placing Four Vikings

Each time you place the four required Vikings on an action space in

the fourth column, before or after taking the action, you may play an

occupation card from your hand. (This bonus is only available on

action spaces in the fourth column.)

• You can use the effect of the played card immediately.

• If you do not have any occupation cards left in your hand, you

cannot play one, obviously.

Extension Tiles in the 4-Player Game

The grey action spaces on the extension tiles allow you to use

an action space in the same column that is occupied by another

player. (You cannot imitate unoccupied action spaces or those

occupied by your Vikings.) In each 4-player game, only two

of the four columns feature imitation: either the rst or second

column, and either the third or fourth column. This is determined

at random during setup.

In this example, the rst and fourth column feature imitation.

• Like the other action spaces, imitation action spaces can only be

used once per round.

aBout the oCCupation Card effeCts

Every occupation card has the same layout. Its name is at the top

left, its point value at the top right, and its effect at the bottom.

The Slash

Several card effects use a slash (/) in their description.

Basically, the slash stands for “either—or”, but we

would like to illustrate its use with some examples:

The Tradesman lets you exchange 1 silverware for

either 1 chest or 1 silk.

If a card has multiple elements with slashes (/), these

elements relate to each other in their respective order.

Here, you can choose whether you want to spend 2, 4, or 6

silver to receive 1, 2, or 3 hides, respectively.

It is important that you only choose at most one of

the listed elements. This card provides either 1 bean,

1 grain, or 1 cabbage, depending on whether you have

1, 2, or 3 whaling boats, respectively.

Consequently, if you have 2 whaling boats, you receive grain and

no beans. (You could argue that 2 boats also include 1 boat, but

this is not the case in this game.)

Every occupation card belongs to one of the following categories:

Immediate Cards

You can recognize immediate cards by their yellow background

color. These cards have an immediate and one-time only effect

that you must carry out when you play them. After that, the effect

becomes irrelevant. Only the point value will matter,

namely for scoring. For example, when you play the

Dragonslayer, you can immediately exchange 2 snares

and 2 spears for 1 treasure chest.

The grey arrow on immediate cards indicates that you

cannot do the exchange at any time, but only immediately

and at most once. (For instance, you could not exchange 4 snares

and 4 spears for 2 treasure chests.) You can only do an exchange

multiple times if a card explicitly says so, using terms like

“multiple times” or “once per …”.

Apart from exchange actions, some cards allow you to

take specic actions on the action board or go through

specic round phases. The Cattle Breeder lets you go

through an additional “Animal Breeding” phase just

by yourself.

In other cases, you simply receive goods without

having to pay anything.

Anytime Cards

You can recognize anytime cards by their blue

background color. These cards have a permanent

effect. You can do what is stated on the card at any time

(before scoring) and any number of times. The Tanner

lets you exchange 1 salt meat for 1 hide at any time.

Gerber

The yellow arrow on anytime cards indicates that you

can do the exchange at any time and any number of

times during the course of the game.

There are some anytime cards without a yellow arrow.

These bend the rules for you. The Modier allows

you to take ore from your ships back into your supply

(which is not normally allowed).

Each Time Cards

You can recognize each time cards by their red background color.

These cards have two differently shaded parts. The light red part

states when the effect activates (usually in form of a condition),

the dark red one explains the action you may then take.

Consequently, you may take the action each time the

condition is met. Immediately before each time you use

an “Overseas Trading” action space (light red part), you

receive 1 oil (dark red part).

Some cards—like the Priest—explicitly state whether the

card comes into effect before or after you meet the condition.

(The Priest, for instance, gives you the oil before the action,

in case you wish to use the oil right away during the Overseas

Trading action.)

Other cards provide exchange actions or bend the

rules for you. The Procient Hunter lets you roll up to

4 times instead of 3.

Exchange actions on each time cards are represented by a

grey arrow (as on immediate cards), because the exchange

cannot be done at any time. However, some cards can say “multiple

times” or “once per …” to modify that.

Some cards provide two actions. When you play such a card, you can

choose which actions you want to take.

If a card shows two immediate actions and you decide

to take both, you must carry them out in order. Here

you would have to hunt game rst, then you could lay

a snare.

Tradesman

1/2/3

2/4/6

Hide Buyer

Helper in Time

of Need

No harvest

with exactly

1/2/3

Dragonslayer

2 2

Cattle Breeder

Do an Animal

Breeding phase

for you only.

Fruit Picker

Tanner

You can return such

ore to your supply.

from

Modifier

Priest

before taking

the action

149

Proficient

Hunter

roll up to

4 times

instead of 3

when rolling

153

Hornblower

1 Hunting

Game

action

1 Laying

a Snare

action

If you only intend to use cards from deck A for now, you can skip

the following section. Only decks B and C contain as soon as

cards.

As Soon As Cards

• You can recognize as soon as cards by their green background

color. Like the each time cards, these cards have two differently

shaded parts. The light green part states when the effect activates

(usually in form of a condition), the dark green one explains the

action you can then take. In this, these cards are no different

from each time cards.

The difference is that the effect of an as soon as card activates

only once per game—namely when the condition is met for the

rst time. This could be the moment you play the card or a future

point in time.

4/9/30

3/2/1

Sail Patcher

as soon as

you have

3 large

ships

if your total round

income is at most:

max.

181181

The Sail Patcher requires 3 large ships. If you already

have 3 large ships when playing this card, you can use

its effect immediately.

Cutter

Operator

time you

acquire

a knarr

per

knarr

179179

This card explicitly states a future point in time. As

soon as you acquire your next knarr, you immediately

receive 1 stocksh and 1 silver for each knarr you

then have.

If the above does not answer all of your questions about specic

card effects, please refer to page 2 of the appendix. It explains all

of the occupations in alphabetical order.

runninG out of Components

For now, you can skip the following section. Come back to it if

you run out of components.

• There are only a few components that are limited by the provided

amounts.

Houses: There is a limited number of sheds and houses in the

game. If you run out, you may not take any more of those tiles.

Exploration boards: Since there are only four exploration

boards, players may only explore up to four times during the

course of the game.

• Ships, goods tiles, building resources, and weapon cards are

considered to have an unlimited supply.

Ships: Improvise if you run out of a certain type of ship.

Goods tiles: If you run out of goods, you could return goods to

the general supply from sections of your placement areas that have

already been fully covered. You can then either cover them with

other goods or silver, or simply remember they were already covered.

Building resources: In case you run out of building resources,

look at the back sides of the seven “Thing Penalty” tiles and take

the appropriate one as replacement.

This tile stands for 5 stone.

Weapon cards: When the draw pile runs out of cards, shufe the

discard pile and form a new face down draw pile. If you are about

to receive a consolatory weapon and you cannot nd a proper one

in both the discard and draw pile, proceed as with the building

resources. Each penalty tile is worth 3 weapons of one kind.

end of the Game and sCorinG

The game ends immediately after the Feast phase of the nal

round. You do not receive any bonus during the nal round.

• If you have sheds or stone houses, you can place wood and

stone left in your supply on the designated spaces of those tiles.

(The tiles show you exactly how many they require.)

• If you have goods tiles left in your supply, you can still place

them in the placement areas of your boards and houses,

if possible.

Then score your points using the provided scoring pad.

The player whose possessions are worth the most wins the game.

The points values of your boards and tiles are printed on the

shield icons.

In case of a tie, there are multiple winners.

Positive Points

• Ships: each whaling boat is worth 3 points, each knarr 5 points, and

each longship 8 points.

• Emigrations: each knarr used for emigration is worth 18 points,

each such longship 21 points.

• Exploration: The Exploration boards vary in value (4 to 38

points). Their value is printed in the top right corner.

• Sheds and houses: sheds are worth 8 points, stone houses 10

points, and long houses 17 points, as printed in the top right corner.

• Sheep and cattle: each sheep is worth 2 points (3 points if

pregnant), each cattle is worth 3 points (4 points if pregnant).

• Occupations: the value of your occupation cards is printed in

the top right corner. Only occupation cards in play count.

• Silver: determine the total of silver in your supply. Silver on

your boards is worthless.

• Final income: instead of paying out the income of the nal

round, you can write it down in the “Final Income” category of

the scoring pad.

• The player who owns the “English Crown” special tile receives

2 additional points, regardless of whether it is in their supply or

on one of their boards.

Negative Points

• From your total of positive points, subtract the negative points

for your boards and buildings, including your home board and

exploration boards as well as your sheds and houses.

Also, do not forget your Thing Penalties, if any (see “Phase 9:

Feast” on page 11).

• It may occur that a player places goods tiles adjacent to each other

even though they were not allowed to do so. Correct the mistake

immediately when that happens. If you notice a mistake too late,

you can punish the culprit during the scoring with 1 Thing Penalty

for each wrongly placed pair of tiles. Here are 2 examples:

In the example on the left, a player has

placed three green goods in a row, so

there are two green-green pairs. This is

punishable by two Thing Penalties for a

total of -6 points.

In the example on the right, the mistake

is more severe. The three goods have

been placed such that any two of them

are adjacent to each other. So there

are three green-green pairs, which is

punishable by three Thing Penalties for

a total of -9 points.

the solo Game

In the solo game, use whichever side of the home board you like.

You will need a second set of Vikings of a different color.

• Place 1 Viking (2 Vikings in the short game) of one color (here:

red) on round space 1 at the “Banquet Table”, and another

2 Vikings each on spaces 3, 5, and 7 (the latter only in the long

game).

• Place 2 Vikings of the other color (here: yellow) each on round

spaces 2, 4, and 6.

• Place 5 Vikings of the rst color (red) on the Thing Square,

and 5 Vikings (6 Vikings in the short game) of the other color

(yellow) on the “waiting space” of your home board.

• Remove the remaining Viking of the second color from the

game. (In the short game, remove 1 Viking of the rst color

instead.)

Play the game as though it were a multiplayer game, taking one

turn after another. Since you do not have any opponents, leave the

Vikings from the previous round on the game action board, blocking

the action spaces. This is why you have Vikings of two colors.

Course of a Round:

Play the rst round as in the multiplayer game. In phase 12, do

not take any Vikings from the action board. Instead, move the 5

Vikings of the other color from the “waiting space” to the Thing

Square. In round 2, you receive 2 additional Vikings of the other

color. At the end of round 2, leave the Vikings you placed in round

2 on the action board and return the Vikings from the rst round to

your home board. Place these Vikings in round 3. Continue play

in this fashion until the nal round.

Notes on the Phases of a Round:

• Once you are familiar with the solo game, you can skip phase 3.

If you would like to know which exploration boards are available

in any given round, check the appendix on page 15. It will also

tell you how big the reward for exploring a specic board is.

• Always skip phase 6. (You have the privilege to always be the

rst player.)

• In phase 12, you can look at the “Banquet Table” to see which

Vikings you must remove from the action board.

A nal score of 100 is considered a very good score for the solo game.

In the long game, you can get there with experience, but in the short

game this is rather difcult to achieve. If you like the challenge, be our

guest and beat it. (Due to the blocking Vikings, the solo game usually

has lower scores than the multiplayer game.)

If you like, you can look through the

light brown occupation cards and choose

one for the start of the game, instead of

drawing one at random. This way you can

explore specic aspects of the game.

In the solo game, I prefer to lay out more

mountain strips during setup than required.

I use a pencil to mark how many of those

mountain strips are available to me at each

time. This way I can go much quicker through

phase 11 and enjoy the game more.

Credits

“A Feast for Odin” was published in June 2016 and designed in May 2013.

Extensive testing started in August 2014.

Frank Heeren organized the realization of this heavy game. Dennis Lohausen

was responsible for its illustrations and graphic design. Uwe Rosenberg wrote

the rules and also supervised the editing process of the game. Christof Tisch

typeset the occupation cards, Hans-Georg Schneider the rule book. Grzegorz

Kobiela did the elaborate English translation. His meticulous way of working led

to many linguistic improvements. The editing team would like to thank Gernot

Köpke for the historical accompanying texts, which were supplemented by

Uwe Rosenberg and translated to English by Gernot himself. Also many thanks

to the proof-readers of the rule book: Janina Kleinemenke, Gabriele Goldschmidt,

Grzegorz Kobiela, and Mario Wiese. Gernot would like to thank the proof-

readers of his accompanying texts: Kerstin Herdzina and Steffen Jost. Last but

not least many thanks to all play-testers, in chronologic order: Andreas Odendahl,

Lasse Goldschmidt, Gabriele Goldschmidt, Sascha Hendriks, Mechthild Kanz,

Reinhold Kanz, Kai Poggenkamp, Thorsten Roth, Janina Kleinemenke,

Jennifer Jünger, Marc Jünger, Hagen Dorgathen, Corinna Büttemeier,

Stephanie Michaelis, Petra Zardock, Anja Beduhn, Michael Speckmann,

Ingo Böckmann, Frank Heeren, Pan Pollack, Helge Ostertag, Jens Drögemüller,

Thorsten Hanson, Stephan Rink, Christof Tisch, Dirk Schmitz, Kevin Farnworth,

Maxime Gauthier-Kwan, Anthony Gascon, Emily Berthelet, Klaus Lottmann,

Florian Racky, Ronny Vorbrodt, Rolf Raupach, Stefan Wahoff, Tanja Muck,

Peter Muck, Tim Koch, Christoph Post, Bianca Bartsch, Claudia Görldt,

Patrick Enger, Gabi Köpke, Gernot Köpke, Tanja Techmann, Torsten Techmann,

Lisa Hofmann, Markus Habenberger, Witold Kliszczynski, Raimund Kessler,

Jutta Böhm, Michael Gnade, Karola Köhler, Lea Reinisch, Patrick Hoffbauer,

Dani Kemmler, Antonio Messina, Jörg Freudenstein, Kerstin Herdzina,

Ragnar Deist, Jürgen Dissinger, Désirée Höher, Andrea Neis, Stefan Ziemerle,

Oliver Heck, Sebastian Dames, Lisa Roggenbuck, Anna Birkelbach, Ralf Seifert.

Z-Man Games wishes to thank Patrick Korner, Adam Marostica, and Michael

Young for proofreading the epic-length documents of the grand journey that is

“A Feast for Odin.”

Special thanks to Andreas “Ode” Odendahl for his

crucial idea to implement bonuses. He had already

proved his outstanding aptitude for complex board

games with “La Granja.”

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