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Compound mitre (fig. N3 & N4)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a bevel angle at
the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with
slanting sides like the one shown in fig. N3.
If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel
and mitre levers are securely tightened.
The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and
mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle “A” (fig. N4) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across
to find the correct mitre angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle “A”)
(fig. N4), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top
or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try
cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
Dual range mitre scale (fig. O)
The mitre scale has two ranges of numbers for convenience, as shown in
fig. O. One scale indicates 0° when the blade is square to the fence.
At this position the other scale reads 90°. The 0° scale (larger numbers
closer to the front edge) is used when calculating angles. To calculate the
proper mitre angle, divide 180° by the number of sides of the box or
frame. Refer to the previous chart for some examples. The 90° scale
(smaller numbers behind the 0° scale) is used when a corner of your box
or frame is measured with a protractor. For example, if you measure the
corner of an 8 sided box, the protractor will read 135°. To determine the
proper mitre setting, divide the measured angle by two. The proper mitre
setting in this example is 67
1
/2. Set this angle on the 90° scale.
Vernier scale (fig. P1 - P3)
Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. For settings
that require partial degrees (
1
/4°,
1
/2°,
3
/4°), the vernier scale allows you to
accurately set mitre angles to the nearest
1
/2° (15 minutes). To use the
vernier scale follow the steps listed below.
As an example, assume that the angle you want to mitre is 24
1
/2° right.
Turn OFF the mitre saw.
22 en - 6
ENGLISH
Body and hand position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre saw
will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place your hands near the cutting area.
Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
Do not cross your hands.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece (fig. M3)
Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals.
Whenever possible, clamp the workpiece to the saw.
For best results use the clamp (49) (DE7082) made for use with your
saw (available from your dealer as an option). Clamp the workpiece to
the fence. You can clamp to either side of the saw blade; remember to
position your clamp against a solid, flat surface of the fence.
Always use a clamp when cutting small workpieces.
Support for long workpieces
Always support long workpieces.
For best results, use the extension work support (DE7080) to extend
the table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as saw-
horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects
(fig. N1 - N4)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown
in fig. N1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.
Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90°
corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge
against the fence.
Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.
The two sketches (fig. N1 & N2) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, divide
180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides Angle mitre or bevel
4 45°
5 36°
6 30°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
9 20°
10 18°
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55
60
65
70
75
80
85
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55
60
65
70
75
80
85
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55
60
65
70
75
80
85
SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW
ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")
SQUARE BOX
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
29


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  • I have a DeWalt dw708 sliding compound miter saw. The bald is stuck in the up position. I am having a major brain fart, and can’t figure out how to unlock it, so it will lower. I’ve looked on line, and people point to an unlocking button on the side, or say there’s a button near the top. No button near the top on mine that I can see, and the button on the right side doesn’t seem to do anything. Help please? Submitted on 8-12-2021 at 01:36

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