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Derailleur maintenance and adjustment.
For satisfactory gear changes and smooth running, two stops need correct setting, and two key
elements of the system have to move freely: the actuator (or "chain-pusher"), and both idlers on
the chain tensioner
Chain pusher adjustment.
Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the
chain pusher. The idea is that, in high
gear, the inner face of the inner upright
IU, fig DR16, shall be as close as
possible to the idler wheel, without any
rubbing pressure while the idler rotates
(to give the slickest change with
minimum wear): when the setting is
right, you should just be able to see
daylight between the two while turning
the cranks forwards, perhaps with
occasional contact. Use a 2mm hex key
in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower
gear setting, only this time, fig DR17, the
inner face of the outer upright OU has to
just not rub on the idler, and the rear
stop screw L is used for adjustment.
Cable adjustment should seldom be necessary, as the trigger moves the cable twice as far as
the movement of the chain-pusher (an over-ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this
movement).
Derailleur trouble shooting.
If the derailleur still malfunctions after adjustment, or if turning the adjustor screws has no useful
effect, and there is no obvious sign of dirt obstructing free movement, then the procedure for
diagnosis is as follows. Step 1, remove the chain tensioner: this allows you to identify whether the
problem lies with the idlers on the chain tensioner (they should be free to move in an
16


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