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Fitting the chain tensioner:
First arrange the chain so that it is running true over both chainwheel and rear sprocket (for a
derailleur, the outer sprocket); next note that the chain tensioner body has two flanges on its inner
face - these should pass either side of the axle plate when fitting the chain tensioner.
For a non-derailleur bike, address the chain tensioner to the axle plate and press home, making
sure that the chain passes between the fixed idler sprocket CTIDL and the rear sprocket.
For a derailleur bike, the chain and the fixed idler
on the chain-tensioner-base, CTIDLB, have to lie
between the "uprights" of the chain-pusher-plate.
So, with the LH trigger up and the chain-tensioner
inclined slightly outwards as in fig DR14 (chain
not shown in this figure), feed the idler CTIDLB
between these uprights, and then feed the
chain-tensioner base onto the rear axle plate till it
abuts squarely.
Next secure the chain tensioner using the chain tensioner nut CTN and its washer CTW. This nut
should not be done up too tightly: somewhat more than hand tight suffices, max torque 8NM.
Now draw up the slack in the chain and feed it over the idler wheel on the sprung arm CTARM -
check that the chain is flowing correctly by turning the cranks.
For a hub gear, the control has to be reconnected. Screw the indicator chain GICH into the hub,
and make sure it is fully screwed home, then unwind through not more than half a turn so that it
points towards the gear cable. Next connect the adjustor A to the indicator chain and, with the
bike unfolded, make sure that it is correctly adjusted (see section G).
SECTION G: RUNNING ADJUSTMENTS & CHECKS.
It is important that certain of the jobs listed here are carried out at least once, if not two or three
times, during the first few hundred miles of use when parts are bedding in (see chart on centre
page). Thereafter, except for brake adjustment, they need to be carried out less and less
frequently. If you are not confident about carrying out these jobs yourself, your dealer can help.
Hub Gear adjustment:
The aim is to make sure that the indicator chain down at the end of the rear axle moves to the
correct position in response to moving the trigger. For this the cable has to be running well: it
must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling freely.
14


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