Manual Winora Algemene (page 85 of 140) (English)

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If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you

can hear the rear shock hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this

case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased. If the adjustment

range is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle dealer. The

rear shock should not reach the end of its travel (bottom out), which can

usully be heard clearly. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will

become damaged over time.

Check the pressure at regular intervals and follow the recommendations of

the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not cover your needs,

you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many manufacturers have

tuning and retrofitting kits on offer. If you are in doubt or if you have any

questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! When replacing any parts be

sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe

side, original spare parts. Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!

Almost all manufacturers deliver their dampers/rear shocks with

instructions. Read them carefully before changing any settings

or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.

The rear shock should be set up and adjusted in such a way that

it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom out). A

spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure) can usual-

ly be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by

the sudden complete compression of the rear shock as it reaches

bottom out. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will

become damaged over time, and so will the frame.

Rear shocks are mounted on full-suspension frames (a) in a way

that they absorb shocks from the terrain. If the damper is too

rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into

the frame without any damping. The frame is normally not de-

signed to withstand such undamped stresses. If your bicycle

is equipped with a rear shock including lockout (b), you must

therefore keep in mind not to activate the lockout function when

riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-

rain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).

9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control

The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to

modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the rear swing

arm moves in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s

reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement of the rear

frame while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard

pedalling in sitting it is advisable to eliminate the damping. For this purpose

some rear shock models are fitted with a lockout device. For downhill rides

on uneven ground the lockout mechanism must not be activated.

Rear shocks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob that

is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (c+d).

The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression

movement.

The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within

the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.

Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound

damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compres-

sion stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.

Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on

the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you

need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”-position.

Rebound is considered satisfactory when the rear frame cycles once after

descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil inside will

flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This will result in a

sluggish rebound movement, and the rear shock will not recover when ex-

posed to a quick series of impacts.

Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making

the rear shock rebound faster. Once this is done, adjust the compression

stage. This is to control the rate at which the rear shock compresses. Ad-

justing the compression adjuster towards the closed or maximum position

will give you a firmer, less active ride. Take your mountain bike for a test ride

on different kinds of surface (a).

If the rear shock hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you will

need to change its spring rate, i.e. to increase the pressure (b). Make sure

not to exceed the maximum pressure indicated on the rear shock.

If the damping does not suit your needs, inspite of your adjusting, or if in the

case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the

initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The

replacement is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.

Do not actuate the lockout function (c) (of the rear shock) when

riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-

rain (roads, smooth tracks).

Do not turn any screws on your rear shock in the vague hope of

adjusting it somehow. You could release the fastening mecha-

nism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers normally

mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“ signs.

Rear shock manufacturers normally include instructions with

their deliveries (d). Read them carefully before changing any

settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.

A too strong damping can result in a sluggish rebound move-

ment with a rear shock that will not recover when exposed to a

quick series of impacts. Risk of an accident!

Do not ride your bicycle, if the rear shock reaches bottom out.

This could damage the rear shock itself as well as the frame.

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Winora Algemene Manual

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