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6.7 Chain
6.7.1 Chain Maintenance
Regular and correct lubrication of your bicycles chain makes for enjoyable
riding and prolongs its service life. It is not the quantity, but the distribution
and regular application of lubricant that counts.
Clean the dirt and oil off your chain with an oily rag from time to time (a).
Special degreasers are not necessary.
Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or
grease to the chain links (b). To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto
the rollers of the lower run of the chain while you turn the crank. Once this
is done, turn the cranks a few more times; then let the chain rest for a few
minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.
Finally wipe off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around
during riding or can collect road dirt.
For the sake of the environment, use biodegradable lubricants
only. Bear in mind that some of the lubricant can end up on the
ground, especially in wet conditions.
Make sure the braking surfaces of the rims, the rotors and the
brake pads remain clear of lubricants, as the brakes will fail oth-
erwise.
6.7.2 Chain Wear
Although the chain is one of the parts of a bicycle that wears, there are still
ways for you to prolong its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated
regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which run
the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chainrings and
get in the habit of high cadence pedalling.
Chains of bicycles with derailleur gears are worn out after approx. 800 to
2,500 km (500 to 1,550 miles) or 40 to 125 hours of use. Chains of road rac-
ing bicycles have reached the end of their service life after approx. 2,000 to
4,500 km (1,200 to 2,800 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation
of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the wear
of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively
expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to
check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.
To check chain wear, run the chain on the largest chainring. Take the chain
between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the teeth. If you can
lift it off clearly, it is stretched and should be replaced (c).
Your bicycle dealer has accurate measuring instruments for precise chain
inspection (d). Replacing the chain should ideally be left to an expert, as this
requires special tools. In addition, you need to select a chain matching your
gear system.
An improperly joined or heavily worn chain can break and may
cause an accident.
a
b
c
d
6.7.3 Adjusting the Chain Tension of Single Speed
Bicycles and Multi-Speed Hubs
The chain tension of single speed bicycles has to be checked and re-ten-
sioned, if necessary, after approx. 1,000 km (620 miles) or 50 hours of use.
The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be
more than two centimetres (a).
Release the rear wheel axle bolts or nuts with an appropriate tool.
Adjust the chain tension by pulling the rear wheel to the rear or by releas-
ing/tightening the chain tensioner. The chain tension is correct when the
amount of vertical play midway between chainring and sprocket does not
exceed two centimetres with a tightened rear wheel. Check the vertical play
in several areas. Furthermore, you should be able to rotate the crank without
resistance.
Adjust the rear wheel in the centre of the rear drop-outs by using the chain
adjuster as limit stop.
Tighten the rear wheel axle nuts with a torque wrench.
The chain adjusters (b) only serve to tension the chain and to
pre-adjust the rear wheel. They are not designed to fix the wheel
in its position or to avoid any falling out.
a
b
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