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Watkins FreshWater Salt System Manual

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FreshWater Salt System Page 9
English
4. Visually inspect and clean filter(s) (refer to spa Owner’s Manual).
5. Check cartridge
a. Press Test Status button to refresh.
b. If the system status message continues to read low, it may be an indication
that it is time to replace the cartridge. Obtain a replacement cartridge, press
the Replace Cartridge button, and follow the instructions.
System Status High (Red Right)
If the status indicator is in the red (on the right), this typically indicates that there is too
much salt in the water.
1. If the status reading is less than halfway in the red, use a salt test strip to measure
salt level. If the test strip shows salt level is high (above 2,000 ppm):
a. Drain 25% of the water from the spa and refill with clean, clear water.
b. Retest with a salt test strip, and repeat until salt level reads in the OK range.
c. Press Test Status button to refresh.
2. If the salt indicator is more than halfway in the upper red section, drain completely and
refill following the Getting Started section on page 2.
Cloudy Water
Cloudy water can be the result of a number of issues.
• High pH. Use a FreshWater 5-Way Test Strip to check spa pH level. Add pH
Down as needed.
• Low chlorine. Use a FreshWater 5-Way Test Strip. If chlorine is low, manually
add chlorine as needed to shock spa to 5 ppm.
• Dirty filter. Check filter(s) and clean as needed (see your spa Owner’s Manual).
N
o Chlorine Reading
The system cleans spa water differently than manually added chlorine. Since the water
is cleaned before the chlorine residual is established, only a small chlorine residual is
needed. If there appears to be no chlorine in the water:
• Check output level. If you are using the spa frequently or have the Summer
Timer on, your use level may require you to increase the output level to a higher
number.
• Shock. Boost system or manually add chlorine to clean the water and develop a
chlorine residual.
• Consult your dealer about changing the internal system output level.
• Cyanuric acid lock. If you add dry chlorine to shock or supplement your water
and your chlorine reading is back to 0 (zero) ppm, it is possibly your salt system
is reacting to your specific water chemistry or metal content and is being inhibited
by the cyanuric acid from dry chlorine. Consult your dealer about switching to
un-stabilized liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) to correct and stabilize your
water chemistry.
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