Manual Vermont Castings Montpelier II (page 10 of 32) (English)

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10 04/237101-803R

D. Combustible/Non-combustible Materials

• Combustible Material

Material made of or surfaced with wood, compressed

paper, plant bers, plastics, or any material capable

of igniting and burning, whether ame-proofed or not,

plastered or non-plastered.

• Non-combustible Material

Material which will not ignite and burn. Such materials

are those consisting entirely of steel, iron, brick, tile,

slate, glass or plasters, or any combination thereof.

• Non-combustible Sealant Material

Sealants which will not ignite and burn: Rutland, Inc.

Fireplace Mortar #63, Rutland 76R, Nuex 304, GE

RTV106 or GE RTB116 (or equivalent).

E. Seasoned Wood

Burn only dry seasoned wood. Store wood under cover,

out of the rain and snow. Dry and well-seasoned wood will

not only minimize the chance of creosote formation, but will

give you the most e󰀩cient re. Even dry wood contains at

least 15% moisture by weight, and should be burned hot

enough to keep the chimney hot for as long as it takes to

dry the wood out - about one hour. It is a waste of energy to

burn unseasoned wood of any kind.

Dead wood lying on the forest oor should be considered

wet, and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead wood

can be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned. To tell if wood

is dry enough to burn, check the ends of the logs. If there

are cracks radiating in all directions from the center, it is dry.

If your wood sizzles in the re, even though the surface is

dry, it may not be fully cured.

Splitting wood before it is stored reduces drying time.

Wood should be stacked so that both ends of each piece

are exposed to air, since more drying occurs through the

cut ends than the sides. This is true even with wood that

has been split. Store wood under cover, such as in a shed,

or covered with a tarp, plastic, tar paper, sheets of scrap

plywood, etc., as uncovered wood can absorb water from

rain or snow, delaying the seasoning process.

Hearth & Home Technologies WILL NOT warranty stoves

that exhibit evidence of over-ring. Evidence of over-

ring includes, but is not limited to:

• Warped air tube

• Deteriorated refractory brick retainers

• Deteriorated ba󰀪e and other interior components

2. What To Do if Your Stove is Over-Firing

- Immediately close the door and air controls to reduce

air supply to the re.

- If you suspect a chimney re, call the re department

and evacuate your house.

- Contact your local chimney professional and have

your stove and stove pipe inspected for any damage.

- Do not use your stove until the chimney professional

informs you it is safe to do so.

F. Burning Process

In recent years there has been an increasing concern

about air quality. Much of the blame for poor air quality

has been placed on the burning of wood for home heating.

In order to improve the situation, we at Vermont Castings

have developed cleaner-burning wood appliances that

surpass the requirements for emissions established by

our governing agencies. These wood appliances must be

properly operated in order to ensure that they perform the

way they are designed to perform.

1. Kindling or First Stage

It helps to know a little about the actual process of

burning in order to understand what goes on inside

a appliance. The rst stage of burning is called the

kindling stage. In this stage, the wood is heated to a

temperature high enough to evaporate the moisture

which is present in all wood. The wood will reach the

boiling point of water (212°F) and will not get any hotter

until the water is evaporated. This process takes heat

from the coals and tends to cool the appliance.

Fire requires three things to burn - fuel, air and heat. So,

if heat is robbed from the appliance during the drying

stage, the new load of wood has reduced the chances

for a good clean burn. For this reason, it is always best

to burn dry, seasoned rewood. When the wood isn’t

dry, you must open the air controls and burn at a high

burn setting for a longer time to start it burning. The

heat generated from the re should be warming your

home and establishing the ue draft, not evaporating

the moisture out of wet, unseasoned wood, resulting in

wasted heat.

2. Second Stage

The next stage of burning, the secondary stage, is

the period when the wood gives o󰀨 ammable gases

which burn above the fuel with bright ames. During this

stage of burning it is very important that the ames be

maintained and not allowed to go out. This will ensure

the cleanest possible re.

3. Final Stage

The nal stage of burning is the charcoal stage. This

occurs when the ammable gases have been mostly

burned and only charcoal remains. This is a naturally

clean portion of the burn. The coals burn with hot

blue ames.

It is very important to reload your appliance while

enough lively hot coals remain in order to provide the

amount of heat needed to dry and rekindle the next

load of wood. It is best to activate the start-up air control

before reloading (Figure 11.1). This livens up the coal

bed and reduces excessive emissions (opacity/smoke).

Open door slowly so that ash or smoke does not exit

appliance through opening. You should also break up

any large chunks and distribute the coals so that the

new wood is laid on hot coals.

NOTICE: Improper operation can turn any wood

appliance into a smoldering environmental hazard.

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