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Bucking (Fig. 15)
Be careful of where the
branches are lying on the ground, the risk of
them being under tension, the direction the
branch may go during cutting and the risk of
the tree being unstable after the branch has
been cut.
1. Check the direction in which the branch is at-
tached to the tree
2. First cut on the side where the branch bends
and then finish cutting on the opposite side.
Sawing logs (Fig. 16)
It is easier to saw a log using the spiked bumper.
1. Dig the spiked bumper into the log and use it as
a pivot. Cut with an arched motion to make the
bar penetrate the wood.
2. Repeat several times if necessary, changing
the point where you plant the spiked bumper.
Sawing a log on the ground (Fig. 17)
Cut up to half the diameter, roll the log over and fin-
ishing sawing on the other side.
Sawing a raised log (Fig. 18)
1. If you are sawing the overhanging end of a sup-
ported log (A), first cut a third of the diameter
from the bottom upwards, then finish from the
top.
2. If you are sawing between two supports (B),
cut a third of the diameter from the top down-
wards, then finish from the bottom.
Use a spiked bumper when cutting trees and thick
branches can ensure your safety and decrease
the branches can ensure your safety and decrease
the working strength and vibration level.
3. END OF OPERATIONS
When you have finished your work:
Switch off the engine as indicated above
(Chap. 6).
Wait for the chain to stop and allow the machine
to cool.
Loosen the rod fastening nuts to reduce chain
tension.
Remove any traces of sawdust or oil deposits
from the chain.
WARNING!
Stop the engine immedi-
ately if the chain stops during sawing. Beware
of kickback, which can occur if the bar con-
tacts an obstacle.
Delimbing (Fig. 13)
Make sure there is nothing
or nobody in the area where the branches will
fall.
1. Stand opposite the branch you want to cut.
2. Start cutting lower branches followed by the
higher ones.
3. Cut downwards to prevent the bar from getting
jammed.
Felling (Fig. 14)
When felling on slopes, al-
ways stand uphill from the tree and check that
the felled trunk cannot cause damage if it rolls
down the hill.
1. Decide where the tree should fall – you should
consider the wind, the natural lean of the tree,
the position of the heaviest branches and how
easy the work is after felling, etc.
2. Clear the area around the tree and find a stable
place to stand.
3. Plan obstacle-free escape routes at a 45° angle
back and away from the direction of fall. These
routes must allow you reach a safe area at a dis-
tance of about 2.5 times the length of the tree to
be felled.
4. On the side of the fall, mark a felling notch
around a third of the trunk’s diameter.
5. Cut the tree on the other side, slightly above the
bottom of the notch, leaving the uncut wood to
act as a “hinge” (1) of approx. 5-10 cm.
6. Reduce the thickness of this hinge without
pulling out the bar, until the tree falls.
7. In particular or unstable conditions, you can
complete felling by inserting wedges (2) on the
opposite side of the fall, and hitting them with a
hammer until the tree falls.
WARNING!
WARNING!
WARNING!
USING THE MACHINE 13
EN
39


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