Technical details in the text and illustrations of these operating instructions are subject to change.
Liability of the editor, the editorial team and other third parties for contributions in this booklet and resulting damage whatsoever shall be excluded, unless in the event of gross
negligence. No part of this publication may be reprinted, translated, copied or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, by hand or otherwise for another
business purpose without prior written permission of the author and the editor.
.
The author
At Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH
everybody is focused on bicycles.
As a publicly appointed and sworn bicycle expert managing di-
rector Dirk Zedler elaborates expert’s reports for courts, insurance
companies, companies and private customers. In Germany’s spe-
cialist magazine TOUR, Europe’s biggest road bike magazine he
publishes test reports and reports for technicians.
In addition, the mechanical engineer advises manufacturers on technical matters relating to security
and supports them in development and research. On the basis of the maxim “Not only in theory, but
also in practice” Dirk Zedler uses his bicycle or the train for nearly all ways. In his spare leisure time
you see him regularly on his mountain bikes or road racing machines.
Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH
In purchasing this STEVENS bicycle you have chosen a product of high
quality and technology. Each component of your new bicycle has been
designed, manufactured and assembled with great care and expertise.
Your STEVENS dealer gave the bicycle its final assembly and adjustment
to guarantee proper operation and many enjoyable riding experiences
with complete peace of mind from the very first metres.
This manual contains a wealth of information on the proper use of your
bicycle, its maintenance and operation as well as interesting informa-
tion on bicycle design and engineering.
Please read this brochure thoroughly; you will find it worth your while;
even if you have cycled all your life and feel like a veteran with your
new bike. Bicycle technology has developed at a rapid pace during re-
cent years.
Therefore, before setting off on your new bicycle, be sure to read at least
the chapter “Before Your First Ride“.
To have as much fun as possible during cycling, be sure to carry out the
minimum functional check described in chapter “Before Every Ride”
before setting off.
When doing any maintenance and repair work, be aware that the de-
tailed instructions provided in your manual only refer to this bicycle.
The information included here is not applicable to any other bicycle. Due
to numerous designs and model changes, it may be that some of the
routines are not described in every detail. Be sure to also observe the
instructions of the component suppliers on the STEVENS CD-ROM that
you have received from your STEVENS dealer.
Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, de-
pending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work.
For some jobs you may require additional (special) tools or supplemen-
tary instructions.
Before you set off, let us point out a few things that are very important
to every cyclist: Always ride carefully on public roads so as not to endan-
ger yourself or others. Always observe the traffic rules and make sure
not to meet the discontent of other road users. Please respect nature
when riding off-road. Only use your bicycle on signposted, well main-
tained and hard-surface trails. Observe the legal regulations concerning
off-road cycling. These regulations may differ in each country. Never
ride without a properly adjusted helmet and without glasses and take
care to always wear suitable clothing. As a minimum you should wear
straight cut trousers and shoes with a stiff sole and grip. Have a lot of
fun with your new STEVENS bicycle!
General Safety Instructions
1. General Safety Instructions
Caution:
For your own safety, never
do any work unless you feel
absolutely sure about it. If
you are in doubt, ask your
STEVENS dealer for help!
6
1. General Safety Instructions
First we would like to familiarise you with the various components used
on your bicycle.
Please unfold the cover of this manual. Here you will find the illustration
of a bicycle showing all the essential components. Leave the page un-
folded as you read. This means that you can quickly find in the text the
component that is being referred to.
The picture shows an arbitrary bicycle – this is not what every bicycle
will look like. Today’s bicycles come in various types that are designed
for specific uses and fitted accordingly. This user manual includes the
following bicycle types.
• Kids’ bicycles
• Mountain bikes (MTB)
• Tandem bicycles
General Safety Instructions
7
1.1. Before Your First Ride
a. STEVENS bicycle types are designed for a maximum overall weight
including rider, luggage and bicycle.
Kids’ bicycles: 65 kg
Mountain bikes: 115 kg
Tandem bicycles: 210 kg
The following weight limits for the rider including equipment and
STEVENS bicycle apply to special wheels:
Mavic Crossmax SLR Disc: 85 kg
DT Swiss M1700 Spline: 110 kg
b. Due to their design and fittings mountain bikes are not suitable for
being used on public roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle
on public roads, it must be fitted with the devices and equipment
prescribed for this purpose (see chapter “Legal Requirements for
Riding on Public Roads”). Mountain bikes
are designed for off-road
use; they are however not suitable for downhill (DH), freeride, dual
slalom, downhill/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc. or for use in water.
c. Tandems are designed to be used by 1 or 2 riders. They can be used
e.g. for off-road cycling on gravel field and forest tracks, however,
not for rough terrain. They are not suitable for mountain bike use,
namely for all mountain enduro, downhill (DH), freeride, dual slalom,
downhill/freeride parks, jumps, drops etc. Due to their design and
fittings tandem bicycles are not suitable for being used on public
roads. If you intend to use this type of bicycle on public roads, it must
be fitted with the devices and equipment prescribed for this purpose
(see chapter “Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads”).
d. Are you familiar with the brake system? Have a look at the bike card
and check whether the brake lever of the front brake is on the side
you are used to (right or left). If it is not, you will need to train to get
used to the new configuration, as inadvertent use of the front brake
can throw you off your bike. Or ask your STEVENS dealer to change
the brake levers. Your new bicycle is equipped with modern brakes
which may be far more effective than those you were used to so far.
Be sure to first practise using the brakes off public roads! For more
information see chapter “The Brake System”.
e. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears? If not,
make yourself familiar with the new gears in a place clear of traffic.
For more information see chapter “The Gears”.
f. Are both saddle and handlebars properly adjusted? The saddle should
be set to a height from which you can just reach the pedal in its low-
est position with your heel. Check whether your toes reach to the
floor when you are sitting on the saddle. Your STEVENS dealer will be
pleased to help you, if you are not happy with your seating position.
For more information see chapter “Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider”.
g. If your bicycle is equipped with clipless or step-in pedals: Have you
ever tried the shoes they go with? Do not set off until you have prac-
tised engaging and disengaging the shoes from the pedals in sta-
tionary. For more information see chapter “The Pedal Systems“. In
addition, read the operating instructions of the pedals that you have
received from your STEVENS dealer.
h. If you have bought a bicycle with suspension fork, you should ask
your STEVENS dealer to have it properly adjusted before delivery.
Improperly adjusted suspension components are liable to malfunc-
tion or damage. In any case they will impair the performance of your
bicycle as well as your safety whilst riding. For more information see
chapters “Suspension Forks“, “Full Suspension of the Mountain Bike
Models”.
General Safety Instructions
Danger:
Note that the distance
you need to stop your bike
increases, while riding with
the hands on the bar ends.
The brake levers are not
within easy reach.
Danger:
A lack of practice when using
step-in pedals or too much
spring tension in the mech-
anism can lead to a very firm
connection, from which you
cannot quickly step out!
Danger:
STEVENS kids’ bicycles are
not designed for mounting
stabilisers.
Danger:
Trailers are not permitted
for STEVENS kids’ and full
suspension bicycles.
8
1.2. Before Every Ride
Check the following points before you set off:
a. Are the quick-release levers, thru axles or the bolted connections
of the front and rear wheel, the seat post and other components
properly closed and tightened? For more information on how to use
quick-releases see chapters “Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases”
and “Wheel Fastening with Thru Axles”.
d. Test the brakes while standing by firmly pulling brake levers towards
the handlebars. The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim with
their entire surface. They must not touch the tyres. With disc brakes
the wheels must be fully blocked when pulling the brake lever in sta-
tionary with little manual force. You should not be able to pull the
brake lever of disc or rim brakes all the way to the handlebars! For
more information see chapter “The Brake System“.
e. If you want to ride on public roads, make sure your bicycle is equipped
according to the regulations of your country. Riding without lights
and reflectors in dark or dim conditions is very dangerous because
you will be seen too late or not at all by other road users. Turn on
the lights as soon as dusk sets in. For more information see chapter
“Legal Requirements for Riding on Public Roads”.
f. Let your bicycle bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is
any rattling, see where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolts,
if necessary.
g. If your bicycle has suspension, check it as follows: Press down on your
bicycle and see whether the spring elements retract and extend as
usual.
h. If your bicycle has a kick-stand, make sure it is fully raised before you
set off. Risk of falling!
i. Various parts of your new bicycle, such as the chain drive, always
need to be well lubricated. Make sure not to dirt your clothes and
protect your trousers with a trouser clip whenever you set off on your
bicycle.
Before Every Ride
b. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure?
Do a thumb test. For more information see chapter “The Wheels”.
c. Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Watch the gap
between rim and brake pad or, in the case of disc brakes, between
frame and rim or tyre. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with
ruptured sides or broken axles or spokes. For more information see
chapter “The Wheels”.
Danger:
Improperly closed quick-re-
leases or thru axles can
cause components of your
bicycle to come loose and
result in serious accidents!
Danger:
During use your bicycle is
undergoing stress resulting
from the surface of the road
and through the rider’s
action. Due to these dynamic
loads, the dierent parts of
your bicycle react with wear
and fatigue. Please check
your bicycle regularly for
wear marks as well as for
scratches, dents, bent parts
and incipient cracking. Com-
ponents which have reached
the end of their service life
may break without previous
warning. Let your STEVENS
dealer maintain and service
your bicycle regularly and in
cases of doubt it is always
best to replace components.
Danger:Do not use your bicycle, if it fails on one these
points! If you are in doubt, ask your STEVENS
dealer for help. Riding a defective bicycle can result in serious accidents!
Note:Do not forget to take a high quality D- or chain
lock with you on your ride. The only way to ef-
fectively protect your bicycle against theft is to lock it to an immovable
object.
9
2. Legal Requirements for Riding on
Public Roads
If you want to use your STEVENS bicycle for riding on public roads, it has
to be equipped according to the regulations of the respective country.
Pay particular attention to your STEVENS bicycle being equipped with
the required set of lights and reflectors.
Ask your bicycle dealer to inform you about the regulations in force in
the country where you use your STEVENS bicycle. Make yourself familiar
with the road traffic regulations for riding on public roads and off-road.
Legal Requirements
Note:If you want to use your bicycle for riding on public
roads, it has to be equipped according to the
regulations of the respective country. Ask your STEVENS dealer for the laws
and regulations applicable in your country or in the country you intend to
use the STEVENS bicycle.
Danger:
For your own safety, be sure
to switch on the light as
soon as dusk sets in.
Danger:
Keep the lighting set clean
and check its functioning at
regular intervals.
Note:
When riding on public roads
cyclists must in general ob-
serve the same regulations
as car drivers. Make yourself
familiar with the road trac
regulations of your country.
10
Legal Requirements
11
3. Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Your body height and proportions are decisive for the frame size of your
bicycle. Make particularly sure there is enough space between your
crotch and the top tube so that you do not hurt yourself, if you have to
get off your bicycle quickly.
By choosing a specific type of bike you already roughly determine the
posture you will be riding in. However, some components of your bicycle
are designed in a way that you can adjust them to your proportions up to
a certain degree. These include the seat post, the handlebars, the stem
and the brake levers.
After any assembly work, be sure to make a short functional check as
described in chapter “Before Every Ride” and do a test ride in an area
free of traffic. This will allow you to safely check whether everything
is in good order.
If you are unsure about how to do something, it will be better just to
check your seating position. Ask a specialist if you want something
changed. They will see to your wishes the next time you leave your bicy-
cle at the workshop, e.g. for the first inspection.
3.1. Adjusting the Saddle Height
The saddle should be set to a height which gives maximum pedalling
comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the ball of your big toe should
be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindle. With your feet in
this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely
straight at the lowest point. If the saddle is too high, you will have trou-
ble passing through the lowest point and your pedalling will become
awkward. You can check the height of your saddle in the following,
simple way. To do so be sure to wear flat-soled shoes, or even better
cycling shoes.
• Sit on the saddle and put one of your heels on the pedal at its lowest
point. In this position your leg should be fully stretched. Make sure
your hips remain horizontal.
• To adjust the saddle height loosen the binder bolt or quick-release
lever (inform yourself beforehand on how to use quick-releases in
chapter “Wheel Fastening with Axle-Nuts, Quick-Releases or Thru
Axles”). Use a suitable tool to release the seat post binder bolt by
turning it anticlockwise.
Rule of thumb to determine the suitable saddle height (SH):
SH = Inseam (length of inside leg, barefoot) x 0.885
The saddle height is the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket
to the upper edge of the saddle.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Danger:
Never grease a carbon seat
post or the seat tube of a
carbon frame. This would
reduce the friction and
render any clamping with
acceptable clamping forces
impossible. Use special
carbon assembly paste to
increase the clamping force.
Danger:
If you have a very small
frame, there may be the
danger of your foot colliding
with the front wheel. There-
fore, make sure your cleats
are properly adjusted.
Danger:All the tasks described require experience,
appropriate tools and manual skills. Make it a rule
to tighten the bolted connections carefully by using a torque wrench.
Increase the torque values bit by bit, checking the fit of the component
in between. Do not exceed the maximum torque values! You will find the
values in chapter “Recommended Torque Settings” and in the operating
instructions of the component manufacturers on the enclosed STEVENS
CD-ROM.
12
• Now you can adjust the saddle height to the desired position. Be sure
not to pull out the seat post too far. The mark on the seat post (MIN,
MAX, STOP, END etc.) should always remain within the seat tube. In
the case of frames with long seat tubes which continue beyond the
top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the height of the
top tube or the rear stay! This can mean a minimum insertion length
of 100 millimetres (4.5 in.) or more.
Make sure the part of the seat post inside the seat tube is always well
greased. Exception: frames and seat posts made of carbon fibre re-
inforced plastic; in this case the seat post must be mounted without
grease. Use special carbon assembly paste.
If the seat post does not move easily inside the seat tube, ask your
STEVENS dealer for advice. Do not use brute force.
• Clamp the seat post again by turning the seat post binder bolt clock-
wise. You do not need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat
post sufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post does not match the
frame.
• Check the tight clamping of the seat post by taking hold of the saddle
at both ends and then trying to rotate the seat post inside the seat
tube. If it does not move, the seat post is firmly seated.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• Align the saddle with the frame by using the saddle nose and the
bottom bracket or top tube as a reference point.
• Does the leg stretch test now produce the right result? Check by mov-
ing your foot and pedal to the lowest point. When the ball of your
foot is exactly above the pedal centre in the ideal pedalling position,
your knee should be slightly bent. If it is, you have adjusted the sad-
dle height correctly.
• Check whether you can balance safely on your bike while sitting on
the saddle by stretching your feet to the floor. If not, you should low-
er the saddle a little.
Danger:
Never ride your bicycle with
the seat post drawn out
beyond the limit, maximum,
or stop mark! In case of
non-observance the seat
post might break or cause
severe damage to the frame.
Setting the stem to a lower
position can only add to your
safety!
Note:
With children who are still
growing it is advisable to
check the seating position
every two to three months.
13
3.2. Adjusting the Height of the Handlebars
The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upper
body. The deeper the handlebars, the more inclined the upper body.
This means a more streamlined position for the rider and more weight
to bear on the front wheel, but the extremely inclined position proves
less comfortable, as the strain on wrists, arms, upper body and neck will
increase.
In the case of a threadless system, also referred to as Aheadset®-system,
the stem is part of the headset system. With this system finding the
correct position is more difficult, as the stem has to be dismounted and
remounted.
Handlebars with conventional stems allow limited vertical adjustment.
This is done by moving the stem up or down inside the fork steerer tube.
Adjusting the height of handlebars with adjustable stems is relatively
easy.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• Now you can move the handlebar/stem unit up and down as a whole.
Be sure not to pull out the stem too far. The mark on the seat post
(MIN, MAX, STOP, END etc.) should always remain within the seat
tube. Setting the stem to a lower position can only add to your safety.
• Realign the handlebars with the front wheel.
3.2.1. Conventional Stems
• Release the expander bolt by two to three complete turns. The stem
should now turn freely inside the fork.
• If it does not, release the clamping bolt by tapping it gently with a
hammer. With Allen bolts, you need to stick the Allen key into the
bolt heads first, as they are normally countersunk and therefore im-
possible to be hit directly. Tap in this case the tool gently with the
hammer.
Danger:
The stem is one of the load
bearing parts of your bicycle.
Changes to it can impair your
safety. If you are not sure,
ask your STEVENS dealer for
advice.
Caution:
Never try to unscrew the top
race of the headset when
you only want to adjust the
stem as you will otherwise
alter the bearing play.
14
• Retighten the expander bolt with a torque wrench. Please observe
the maximum torque value:
• Make sure the stem is firmly fixed by taking the front wheel between
your legs and trying to turn the handlebars and stem relative to the
wheel. If there is movement, you have to increase the torque value.
• If the handlebars are still too high or too low, you will have to replace
the stem. This can be quite a big job, as it may be that you have to
take off all the fittings on the handlebars. Inform yourself at your
bicycle dealer about the various stem types available.
3.2.2. Stems for Threadless Systems, the Aheadset®-
System
(Aheadset® is a registered trademark of Dia-Compe which developed
the system.)
In the case of bicycles with a threadless headset system (Aheadset®)
the stem also serves to adjust the bearing preload. If you change the
position of the stem, you have to readjust the bearing play (see chapter
“The Headset”). The vertical setting range is limited by the intermediate
rings, also referred to as spacers. With flip-flop stem models it is also
possible to mount the stem the other way round to alter the handlebar
height.
• Release the bolt at the top of the fork steerer tube which serves to
adjust the initial bearing pressure and remove the Ahead cap.
• Release the stem clamping bolts on either side of the stem and pull
the stem off the fork. In doing so keep hold of both frame and fork to
prevent the fork from slipping off the head tube!
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
Danger:
Note that the bolted connec-
tions of stem and handlebars
have to be tightened to the
specied tightening torques.
You will nd the respective
values in chapter “Recom-
mended Torque Settings” or
directly on the components.
If you disregard the pre-
scribed values, the handle-
bars or stem may come loose
or break. This can lead to a
severe crash.
Danger:
Never ride a bicycle with a
stem that has been drawn
out beyond the mark for
the maximum permissible
height! Check all bolts and
test your brakes before you
set o!
Danger:Do not combine a steel stem with aluminium
handlebars, unless this combination is expressly
approved by the manufacturers.
15
• Readjust the headset and retighten the stem after you have aligned
it (see also chapter “The Headset”). Check whether the handlebars
are firmly seated in the stem by trying to rotate the handlebars
downwards. Also check whether the handlebars/stem unit can be
turned relative to the fork. Do this by taking the front wheel between
your knees and trying to twist the handlebars. If the parts can still
be moved, the bolts must be carefully tightened once again and the
tight fit must be checked once again. Do not exceed the maximum
torque values.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• Now you can remove the spacers.
• Slide the removed spacers except from the lowest, tapered spacer
above the stem on the steerer tube.
• If you want to turn the stem around, you have to also release the bolts
of the faceplate securing the handlebars. If the stem is fitted with a
faceplate, you can simply remove the handlebars. (See also chapter
“Adjusting the Tilt of the Handlebars, Bar Ends and Brake Levers” fur-
ther below). Position the handlebars centrally and retighten the bolts
after you have turned the stem around.
Note:
Make sure the handlebar
clamping area is free of
sharp edges. Your STEVENS
dealer will be pleased to
help you.
Danger:
Note that the bolted con-
nections of the stem and the
handlebars have to be tight-
ened to specied torques.
You will nd the respective
values in the operating
instructions on the STEVENS
CD-ROM or directly on the
components. Otherwise the
handlebars or stem may
come loose or break.
Danger:In case you turn the stem around, the cables may
be too short. In this case riding on your bicycle is
dangerous. Ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
Danger:Stems come in very different lengths and shaft
and binder tube diameters. A stem of inappropri-
ate dimensions can become a serious source of danger: Handlebars and
stem may break, causing an accident in the process. Make sure the stem
clamp (the handlebar clamping) and the steerer tube clamping are free
of sharp edges. Your STEVENS dealer will be pleased to help you.
Note:Spacers can only be removed by shortening the
steerer tube at the same time. This shortening
is irreversible. Have this shortening only done by your STEVENS dealer
when you are absolutely sure about the position.
16
3.3. Correcting the Fore-to-Aft Position and Tilt
of the Saddle
The inclination of your upper body, and hence your riding comfort and
pedalling power, are partially influenced by the distance between the
grips of the handlebars and the saddle as well as by the tilt of the sad-
dle. This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the
saddle rails in the seat post clamp. However, this also influences your
pedalling. Depending on whether the saddle is positioned more to the
front or more rearwards, your legs will reach the pedals to a greater or
lesser extent from behind.
You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed
manner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the han-
dlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
An inappropriate saddle position or unsuitable saddle models may
numb your crotch and cause blood flow disorders in your genital area.
Ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
3.3.1. Adjusting Saddle Position and Tilt
• With patent seat posts a single bolt or two parallel bolts fix the
clamping mechanism, which controls both the tilt and the horizontal
position of the saddle. Some seat posts have two bolts which allow a
still more precise adjustment of the angle position.
• Move the saddle forward or backward by sliding its rails in the loos-
ened seat post clamp. You may have to give it a light blow to move it.
• Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal as you retighten
the bolt. The bike should stand on level ground while you adjust the
saddle.
• Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench.
• After fastening the saddle check whether it resists tilting by bringing
your weight to bear on it once with your hands on the tip and once at
the rear end.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• Release the bolt(s) at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolt anticlock-
wise no more than two to three turns to begin with, otherwise the
whole assembly can come apart.
Note:
The setting range of the
saddle is very small; replac-
ing the stem allows you to
make far bigger adjustments
to the rider’s fore-to-aft
position, as stems come in
dierent lengths. Replacing
the stem allows you to make
far larger changes to the
fore-to-aft position, because
stems come in lengths
diering by more than ten
centimetres. In most of
the cases the length of the
cables must be adjusted.
For these changes ask your
STEVENS dealer for help!
Danger:Note that the bolted connections of the seat post
have to be tightened to the specified torque
values. You will find the values in chapter “Recommended Torque Set-
tings” and in the operating instructions on the STEVENS CD-ROM or on
the components.
17
3.4. Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach
With most brake systems the distance between the brake levers and the
handlebar grips is adjustable. This gives riders with small hands the con-
venience of being able to bring the brake levers closer to the handlebar.
The length of the rider’s fingers also determines how the lever position
for first brake contact should be set.
• Check the point, when the brake pads touch the braking surfaces
(rim, disc). If this point is reached after the lever has only travelled a
short distance, you have to readjust the brakes after having adjusted
the brake lever reach. (See chapter “The Brake System”) Otherwise
the brake would drag already after the adjustment. If this point is,
however, reached after the lever has travelled half of its way, there is
a little play to reduce the gripping distance of the levers.
• On most bikes there is a small threaded pin near the point where the
brake cable or hydraulic brake line runs into the brake lever mount.
Turn it clockwise and watch how the lever adjusts as you do so.
• When you have set the levers to the desired gripping distance, be
sure to check whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers
to move a little before the brake pads hit the rims.
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
3.5. Adjusting the Tilt of the Handlebars, Bar
Ends and Brake Levers
Bar ends on mountain bikes are usually fitted slightly angled.
Adjust the handlebars so that you can rest your hands on it with your
wrists relaxed and not turned outward too far.
• Release the Allen bolt(s) at the bottom or front side of the stem.
• Turn the handlebars to the desired position.
• Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
• In the case of stems with two or four bolts make sure the upper and
bottom slots are identical in width.
Danger:
Make sure you cannot pull
the brake levers all the way
to the handlebars. Your max-
imum braking force must be
reached short of this point!
18
Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider
• In the case of stems with four-bolt clamping, be sure to retighten
the bolts evenly and alternately to the prescribed torque value. The
clamping slots in the top and bottom area as well as on the right and
on the left must be evenly and of identical width.
Bar ends give you additional ways of gripping the handlebar. They are
usually fixed in a position that gives the rider a comfortable grip when
pedalling out of the saddle. The bar ends are then almost parallel to the
ground or tilted slightly upwards.
• Release the bolts, which are usually located on the underside of the
bar ends, by one to two complete turns.
• Turn the bar ends to the desired position and make sure the angle is
the same on both sides.
• Retighten the bolts to the required torque.
• Check the firm seat of the bar ends by trying to twist them out of
position.
• Carefully retighten the clamping bolt(s). Try to turn the handlebars
relative to the stem. Retighten the bolted connections, if necessary.
Observe the maximum torque value (see also chapter “Recommend-
ed Torque Settings”).
• After adjusting the handlebars you need to adjust the brake and shift
levers.
• Release the Allen bolts at either grip binder.
• Turn the levers relative to the handlebars. Sit in the saddle and place
your fingers on the brake levers. Check whether the back of your hand
forms a straight line with your lower arm.
• Retighten the levers and check whether they resist twisting and
turning! In doing so observe the specified torque values in chapter
“Recommended Torque Settings“.
Danger:
Note that the bolted connec-
tions of stem, handlebars,
bar ends and brakes have
to be tightened to their
specied torques. You will
nd the respective values
in chapter “Recommended
Torque Settings“. If you
disregard the prescribed
values, the components may
come loose or break. This
can lead to a severe crash.
19
4. The Pedal Systems
Not all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used for cycling should have
a stiff sole and provide a firm support for your feet. If the soles are too
soft, the pedals can press through and cause foot pain. The force trans-
mission is less efficient. The sole should be not too broad near the heels,
as the rear stays will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling. This will
prevent your feet from assuming a natural position and may cause knee
pain in the long run.
Step-in pedals come with a special type of cycling shoe which locks onto
the pedal similarly to a ski binding.
The Pedal Systems
4.1. Different Systems at a Glance – How They
Work
We recommend pedals that provide a lock and release mechanism for
your shoe, known as step-in pedals. The firm connection between shoe
and pedal prevents your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or
when riding over rough ground. Besides this, it enables you not only
to push but also to pull the pedals, which makes your pedalling more
fluent. A further advantage is that the ball of your big toe comes to rest
biomechanically just at the right place on the pedal spindle and that you
do not block unintentionally the front wheel with the tips of your feet
during steering.
To engage with the pedal is to turn it to the horizontal using the tip of
the cleat (the plate on the sole of the shoe) and then rest your foot on it.
Most mountain bikes are equipped with a double-sided lock-in mech-
anism, so that you can step on the pedal with either face up. The shoe
engages with the pedal with a click which you will hear and feel clearly.
With all commercially available systems the shoe is disengaged from the
pedal by twisting the heel outward. Lean against a wall or ask someone
to hold you when you try to engage and disengage the shoe from the
pedal. Functional differences between the pedal systems concern the
shape of the cleat, the release angle and the rigidity of the connection.
Cyclists predisposed to knee trouble should choose a pedal system that
has some “float”, so that the heel can move sideways a little while the
shoe is engaged with the pedal. Some step-in pedals have cleats em-
bedded into the sole which is a great advantage, as it ensures stable
walking.
An older system is the strap pedal system. With this kind of pedal the
shoe tip is held by a bracket. A strap running over the bridge of the foot
fixes the shoe.
Danger:
Taking up the pedals, engag-
ing the shoes and disen-
gaging them by turning the
heel outward should rst be
practised while stationary.
Later you can rene your
technique in a place clear
of trac.
Note:
Read the operating instruc-
tions of the pedal and shoe
manufacturers carefully. In
case of inquiries, ask your
STEVENS dealer for advice.
20
4.2. Adjustment and Maintenance
Current pedal systems can show considerable differences in design.
Nevertheless, there are some general rules for adjustment which apply
to all of them:
• The cleat has to be fastened to the shoe in such a position that the
ball of the foot comes to rest on the pedal axle.
• Squeaking or creaking cleats can often be silenced by applying a little
grease to the point of contact between cleat and pedal. These noises
may also be signs of wear.
• Check the cleats regularly for wear, especially in case of plastic cleats.
• If your shoe wobbles on the pedal, the cleat or the sole of your shoes
might be worn.
The Pedal Systems
• Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling. For most
people this means that the heels will point inward a little. Make sure
the fastening bolts are properly tightened, as you will find it almost
impossible to disengage your shoe from a loose plate!
• Adjust the required releasing force according to your needs. It is ad-
visable to adopt a low releasing force setting to begin with. Turn the
small Allen bolt and examine the change in releasing force when you
engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.
• Exposed springs and other components that attract dirt have to be
cleaned and regreased regularly.
Danger:
Only use clipless pedals
allowing you to engage
and disengage smoothly. A
defective pedal or a badly
worn cleat can make the
shoe disengage from the
pedal. Risk of falling!
Note:Before mounting the pedals, check the marking
on the pedal axles first. “R” stands for right pedal
and “L” for left pedal. Note that the left pedal has a left-handed thread
that has to be tightened contrary to the direction you are accustomed to,
i.e. anticlockwise.
21
5. The Brake System
In general the brakes of your bicycle are necessary to adjust your speed
to the traffic situation. However, in an emergency the brakes must be
able to bring your bicycle to a halt as quickly as possible. Such emer-
gency braking is also a study in physics. In the process of braking, the
rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel.
The rate of deceleration is primarily limited by the danger of overturn-
ing and only in the second place by the road grip of the tyres. Such a
problem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill. In the event
of an emergency braking you have to try to put your weight back as far
as possible.
The Brake System
Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that due to the
weight transfer the front brakes can achieve a higher braking force.
With rim brakes long lasting braking or permanent dragging of the
brake pads can overheat the rim. This can affect the inner tube nega-
tively or cause the tyre to slip on the inner rim. Sudden loss of pressure
while cycling can result in a serious accident.
Danger:
The assignment of brake
lever to brake pad, e.g. left
lever acts on front brake, can
vary. Make yourself familiar
with the lever-to-brake
assignment or ask your
STEVENS dealer to change
the brakes as you want
them.
Danger:
Actuate the brakes care-
fully when riding on wet or
slippery roads or o-road,
as the tyres can easily slip
away. Therefore, reduce
your speed in general when
riding in such conditions.
With disc brakes prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake
pads can overheat the brake system. This can result in a loss of braking
force, even to the point of total brake failure, provoking serious acci-
dents.
Therefore, check your riding manners and make it a habit to brake hard
and then to open the brake again, whenever the road surface and the
situation allows it. It is better to stop for a moment and let the rim cool
down rather than to risk anything.
5.1. Functioning and Wear
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar or back-pedalling causes a
stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating braking surface,
and the resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceler-
ation is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is
pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by
the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are
rubbed against each other.
When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfac-
es, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why brakes respond at
a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. This applies in par-
ticular to rim brakes.
In order to maintain their effectiveness brakes need to be checked and
readjusted from time to time.
Danger:Be careful while getting used to the brakes.
Practise emergency stops in a place clear of traffic
until you are comfortable controlling your bicycle. This can save you from
having accidents.
22
5.2. Rim Brakes (General)
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well
as to the rims. Frequent rides in the rain and soiling hasten wear on both
engaging surfaces. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain
critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure. This can make
the wheel jam or the inner tube burst, both of which can cause a fall!
See your STEVENS dealer and ask them to examine the remaining thick-
ness of the rims when you have worn through your second set of brake
pads at the latest. Your bicycle dealer has special measuring devices for
determining the remaining thickness of the rims.
Some rims are provided with wear indicators. Once the abrasion of the
rim has reached a certain critical point, the brake indicator becomes vis-
ible in form of small slots or a permanent strip or disappears (according
to the model). In this case you should also go and see your STEVENS deal-
er at once and have your rim replaced.
5.2.1. Checking, Readjusting and Synchronizing V-Brakes
Common V-brake designs have two brake arms mounted separately on
either side of the rim. Actuating the brake lever creates a pull on the
brake cable which draws the arms towards each other. On this occasion
the brake arms turn slightly inwards around the suspension point, a fric-
tion of the brake pads being generated on the rim sides.
The Brake System
5.2.2. Functional Check
• Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims
and still sufficiently thick. You can tell this by the grooves in the
brake pads. If the pads are worn down, it is time to replace them.
Danger:
Wet weather, snow and ice
reduce your braking eect.
Be aware of longer stopping
distances when riding in
the rain!
Danger:
Damaged brake cables that
are for example frayed
should be replaced immedi-
ately, as they can otherwise
fail in a critical moment,
possibly causing a crash.
Note:
Clean the brake pads at
regular intervals.
Danger:When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use
marked brake pads matching your rim. Your
STEVENS dealer will be pleased to help you. Ensure that braking surfaces
are absolutely free of wax, grease and oil. Ask an expert to check the rims
at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads or when
the wear indicators are visible. Worn down rims may make the inner tube
burst and result in a fall! Ask your STEVENS dealer for help.
• Furthermore, the brake pads should touch the rim with their front
part first. At the moment of the first contact the rear part of the brake
pad should be a millimetre away from the rim. Seen from the top
the brake pads form a “V” with the trough pointing to the front. This
V-shaped setting prevents screeching when the brakes are applied.
• When you pull the brake lever, both brake arms must contact the rim
simultaneously.
• The brake lever must always remain clear of the handlebars. You
should not be able to pull it all the way to the handlebars, even in the
event of an emergency braking.
• Only a successful passing of all these points will ensure a correctly
adjusted brake.
23
5.2.4. Synchronizing and Readjusting the Brakes
• For synchronizing the brake, almost all cantilever and V-brakes have
a bolt on the side of one brake body to adjust the spring preload.
Screw this bolt until the clearance between brake pad and rim is the
same on either side.
The Brake System
• To readjust the brakes, release the knurled lock ring located at the
point where the brake cable enters the brake lever on the handlebars.
• Unscrew the knurled, slotted adjusting bolt by a few turns. This
shortens the free travel of the brake lever.
• Keeping the adjusting bolt fixed, tighten the lock ring against the
brake lever mount. This prevents the adjusting bolt from coming
loose by itself.
• Ensure that the slot of the bolt faces neither forward nor upward, as
this would permit water or dirt to enter.
Danger:
Adjusting the position of the
brake pads relative to the
rims requires
a considerable degree of
skill. Replacing and adjust-
ing the brake pads is a job
best left to your STEVENS
dealer.
Danger:
Always test the brakes’ func-
tion when stationary after
adjusting them, making sure
the brake pads engage fully
with the rim when you pull
them hard.
5.2.3. Vertical Adjustment of the Brake Pads
• Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to at most two
complete turns.
• Push the brake pad to the correct height, i.e. the brake pad must hit
the rim with its entire surface. Make sure the brake pad is in parallel
to the rim and pull the brake lever to fix the brake pads. Retighten the
fastening bolt of the brake pad to the recommended torque value.
24
The Brake System
5.3. Checking and Readjusting Hydraulic Rim
Brakes
Hydraulic brakes are extremely powerful and require very little main-
tenance.
Check the pads regularly for wear and alignment. Indicators, i.e. usually
grooves in the pads, tell you whether the brake pads are worn down or
not. If the pads are worn down to the bottom of the grooves, it is time
to replace them.
Keep the brake callipers, especially the brake pad area, clean, as dirt can
prevent the pads from travelling back in their rest position. Regularly
check the lines and connections for leaks.
With hydraulic rim brakes, as well, the brake pads wear down and the le-
ver travel increases. Most brake models are, however, fitted with a bolt
or a small knob (TPA, Turbo Pad Adjuster, for tool less brake pad wear for
Magura HS33) at the control unit, brake lever to compensate the wear.
Danger:
Manufacturers of hydraulic
brakes deliver their products
with detailed operating
instructions. You nd these
instructions on the STEVENS
CD-ROM. Read them care-
fully before removing the
wheel or doing any mainte-
nance work. Misuse can lead
to brake failure or accidents!
Danger:
Loose connections and leaky
brake lines drastically impair
braking eect. If you find
leaks in the brake system
or buckled lines, contact
your STEVENS dealer. Risk of
accident!
25
5.4. Hydraulic Disc Brakes (General)
The most striking feature of hydraulic disc brakesis that they combine
outstanding braking effect with good weather resistance. They respond
a lot faster in wet conditions than rim brakes do and achieve their nor-
mal high braking power within a very short time. They also require fairly
little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do.
One drawback of disc brakes is that they tend to be noisy.
The brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, too, allowing
you to operate them with optimal effectiveness.
In most cases this is done by means of a small Allen bolt located directly
at the hand lever. Please note that you may need to readjust the brake
pads, as well. Be sure to also read the operating instructions of the brake
manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM.
The Brake System
Note:
New brake pads have to be
bedded in before they reach
their optimal braking per-
formance. For this purpose,
accelerate the bicycle 30 to
50 times to around 30 kph
(18 mph) and bring it to a
halt each time by braking
forcefully. This procedure
is nished, when the force
required at the lever for
braking has stopped de-
creasing.
Note:
Under dierent conditions,
e.g. in wet conditions, disc
brakes tend to be noisy.
These noises are normal and
have technical reasons. As
long as the operativeness
of the brake is not impaired
there is no reason for
concern.
Danger:Keep oil or cleaning agent off the brake pads.
If this should happen despite all precautions, you
have to replace the brake pads, as soiled brake pads will no longer be
operative any more.
Danger:Disc brakes get hot in use. For this reason
do not touch the brakes directly after stopping,
especially after a long downhill ride.
Caution:Manufacturers of hydraulic disc brakes deliver
their products with detailed operating instruc-
tions. You find these instructions on the STEVENS CD-ROM. Be sure to
read these operating instructions carefully before you dismount a wheel
or do any maintenance work.
26
5.4.1. Checking and Readjusting Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Check the lines and connections regularly for leaks while pulling on
the lever. If hydraulic oil or brake fluid leaks out, you should see your
STEVENS dealer immediately, as a leak can render your brakes ineffec-
tive.
Make sure you have always a clearly defined pressure point when pulling
the brake lever. If this is not the case, stop cycling and see your STEVENS
dealer immediately. Hydraulic disc brakes have a fully automated brake
pad wear adjuster. It ensures that the brake lever travel does not change
with the wear of the brake pads and there is therefore no need to re-
adjust the brake. Check the thickness of the brake pads regularly. The
overall thickness of Magura pads should not be less than 2.5 mm.
Check the pads for wear by inspecting the thickness of the braking ma-
terial attached to the backing plate within the brake calliper or view
through the window on the upper side of the calliper. If there is ap-
proximately 1mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the pads
according to the manufacturer’s operating instructions on the STEVENS
CD-ROM and check them thoroughly.
With a thickness of 0.5 mm (measured without holder) the brake pads
have to be replaced at the latest.
For more information on the respective brake system see:
www.magura.de
www.shimano-europe.com or
www.paul-lange.com
www.sram.com/avid
www.tektro.com
5.5. Back-Pedal Brakes
This type of brake is hardly found any more and only still common on city
and kids’ bicycles. The brake mechanism of this brake is fully enclosed
and mostly combined with a multi-speed hub.
This back-pedal brake is operated by pedalling backward. For maximum
braking force, step on one of the pedals in its rearmost position with the
cranks horizontal. With Sram models braking force is increased when
you have switched to a lower gear beforehand.
With back-pedal brakes the chain tension has to be checked regularly.
The amount of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should
not be more than two centimetres.
The Brake System
Danger:
When you state a changed
pressure point when braking
forcefully or when you have
to pump with the lever
repeatedly to achieve a
braking eect, stop cycling
and contact your STEVENS
dealer.
Danger:
Loose connections and leaky
brake lines drastically impair
braking eect. If you find
leaks in the brake system
or buckled lines, contact
your STEVENS dealer. Risk of
accident!
Danger:
Disc brakes can only be
mounted on bicycles with
a solid disc brake mount.
Do not use an adapter for
mounting.
Danger:Do not open the brake lines. Leaking out brake
fluid is very unhealthy and aggressive to the
coating.
Danger:Check regularly whether the brake torque arm is
firmly attached to the frame or fork.
27
6. The Gears
The gears on your bicycle serve to adjust your pedalling power to the
terrain you are riding on and the desired speed. The gears do not re-
duce the physical work to be performed which remains the same with
the identical distance to be performed at identical speed, but the ped-
alling force per crank rotation. That means: A low gear (where in the
case of derailleur gears the chain runs on the small chainring and a large
sprocket) allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force.
You must, however, pedal relatively fast.
High gears (large chainring, small sprocket) are for riding downhill.
Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres forward at correspond-
ingly high speed.
To ride economically you frequently have to shift gears. As with a motor
vehicle, your “engine” wants to be kept within a certain speed range, if
it is to give its best performance. On level ground your pedalling speed,
also referred to as cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a minute.
Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between 90 and 110 strokes a minute on
level ground. When climbing uphill, your cadence will naturally fall off
somewhat. Your pedalling should, however, always remain fluid.
Finely graduated adjustments as well as an easy operability of modern
bike gears are the best preconditions for an efficient riding. In addition,
it reduces chain and sprocket wear as well as the strain on your knee
joints.
6.1. Derailleur Gears
Derailleur gears are currently the most effective type of power trans-
mission on bicycles. About 97 to 98 percent of the pedalling force
performed is transmitted to the rear wheel with well-maintained and
greased derailleur gears.
With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and clear-cut le-
ver positions, shifting gears has become very easy. Most systems have
an indicator on the handlebars showing the currently used gear.
The Gears
6.1.1. Functioning and Operation
Gear shifting is initiated by actuating a shifter, a combined brake and
gear lever unit or by a short turn of the wrist with the twist grip.
Caution:
Be sure to always wear
straight cut trousers or use
trouser clips or the like to
make sure your trousers
do not get caught in the
chain or the chainrings thus
provoking a fall.
28
6.1.1.1. Push-Button Shifters
Shifters in form of push-button shifters work in different ways. With
most of them pressing the large shifter moves the chain to the larger
chainrings. The small shifter located in front of the handlebars, from
the rider’s viewpoint, moves the chain towards the smaller chainrings.
This means that any gear shift made by pushing the large thumb shifter
on the right produces a lower gear, while pressing the large thumb shift-
er on the left moves the chain to the larger chainring, thus producing a
higher gear.
With the Shimano inverse technology, used mainly on mountain bikes,
this gear shift pattern for the rear derailleur of the Rapidfire finger
shifter lever can be inversed and actuating the right thumb push-button
shifts on a small sprocket with a heavier gear ratio.
The Shimano Rapidfire Plus shifters work according to the usual Rapid-
fire principle (see above), they offer however the possibility to operate
the front “index finger lever” with the thumb initiating the same gear
shifting action as with the index finger operation. The chain moves to
the small chainring or small sprockets. You can therefore shift either
with the thumb and the index finger or only with the thumb.
In addition, you can shift through several gears with one lever move-
ment, i.e. a short lever movement shifts from one gear to the next gear,
whereas a longer lever travel shifts over the next two gears.
The Gears
29
6.1.1.2. Twist Grip Shifters
The principle of twist grips is different. Twisting the right-hand grip to-
wards you moves the chain to a larger sprocket giving you a lower gear,
while the same movement on the left produces a higher gear by moving
the chain to the larger chainrings.
The Gears
The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the rear derailleur via
Bowden cable. Then the rear derailleur swivels, causing the chain to
climb onto the next sprocket. It is therefore important when changing
gears to continue pedalling smoothly without force as long as the chain
is moving between sprockets or chainrings! On today’s bicycles there
are, however, special guides in the chainrings which allow for changing
gears under force. Shifting gears under load shortens, however, the ser-
vice life of your chain considerably.
30
Furthermore, this can lead especially in the case of mountain bikes to
a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chainstay and
chainrings. Therefore, avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in
particular when changing gears with the front derailleur.
Mountain bikes are usually fitted with one, two or three chainrings and
up to eleven sprockets at the rear wheel hub. According to the combina-
tion this provides nominally a gear with up to 30 speeds.
Some gears with particular chain run should be avoided. Gears with an
extremely oblique run of the chain may cause noises and result in an in-
creased inner friction, which reduces the power transmission efficiency
and hastens wear of the chain.
An unfavourable run of the chain is when the smallest chainring (front
derailleur) is used with one of the two or three outermost (smallest)
sprockets (rear derailleur) or when the largest chainring is used with one
of the inmost (largest) sprockets.6.1.2. Checking and Readjusting the Gears
The derailleur gears of your bicycle were carefully adjusted by your
STEVENS dealer before delivery. The Bowden cables may, however, give
way or compress the cable housings on the first kilometres making gear
changing imprecise. This will result in the chain not wanting to climb
onto the next smaller sprocket.
The Gears
Note:
Avoid gears which involve
an extremely oblique run of
the chain.
Danger:
Shifting gears under load,
i.e. while pedalling hard, can
make the chain slip. At the
front derailleur the chain
may even slip o the chain-
rings when shifting under
load. Furthermore, this can
lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the
chain can get jammed be-
tween chainstay and chain-
rings. This can result in a fall.
This will at least shorten the
service life of the chain and
damage the frame.
Danger:Practise shifting gears in a place free of traffic
until you are familiar with the functioning of the
different levers or twist grips. If you do so in road traffic, your attention
might be drawn off from possible risks.
31
The Gears
6.1.2.1. Rear Derailleur
In the case of imprecise shifting increase the tension of the bowden ca-
ble by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the entry to
the shift lever or rear derailleur. To do so, shift to the smallest sprocket
and turn the clicking bolts anticlockwise in half turns until the cable is
slightly tensioned.
After tensioning the Bowden cable check whether the chain readily
climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To find out you either have to turn
the cranks by hand or ride the bicycle and change gears.
If the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether
it also readily shifts to the small sprockets when you change to a higher
gear. You may need several tries to get the derailleur system properly
adjusted.
6.1.2.2. Adjusting the Limit Stops
The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws which limit the swiv-
el range of the rear derailleur, thus preventing the rear derailleur and
chain from colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping off the
smallest sprocket. The limit screws are adjusted by your STEVENS deal-
er. They do not alter their position during normal use. After a fall you
should however always check the proper adjustment.
Shift with the right shifting lever to the highest gear. The inner cable
is then totally relaxed and the chain will run on the smallest sprocket.
Look from the rear of the bicycle at the cassette and check whether the
teeth of the smallest sprocket and the teeth of the guide pulley are all in
a perfectly vertical line.
Caution:
If your bicycle has tipped
over or the rear derailleur
received a blow, the rear
derailleur or its mount might
be bent. It is advisable to
check its range of move-
ment and readjust the limit
screws, if necessary, after
such an incident or after
mounting new wheels on
your bicycle.
32
If necessary, correct the position by means of the limit screws. The limit
screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for
low gear. In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e.
with the chain running on the smallest sprocket.
If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error.
Turn one of the screws counting the number of turns and watch the rear
derailleur. If it does not move, you are turning the wrong one. Turn back
the counted rotations to find its original position.
Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel
and anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.
Continue by shifting the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket. Be care-
ful as you do so, as not to let the rear derailleur collide with the spokes.
When the chain runs on the biggest sprocket, see whether you can take
the rear derailleur even further by moving the shift lever to the end of
its travel. Then press the rear derailleur further towards the spokes by
hand. Spin the wheel. If the derailleur cage moves towards the spokes or
if the chain begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, the derailleur
movement range needs to be limited. Turn the limit screw marked “L”
clockwise until the rear derailleur is clear of the spokes.
6.1.2.3. Front Derailleur
Adjusting the front derailleur is a delicate job. The range within which
the front derailleur keeps the chain on the chainring without itself
touching the chain is very small. It is often better to let the chain drag
slightly on the derailleur than to risk having the chain fall off the chain-
ring, which would block the drive. The swivelling range is reduced in
the same way as with the rear derailleur, i.e. by turning the limit screws
marked “H“ and “L“. This is a job you should leave to your STEVENS deal-
er. As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject
to lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.
If necessary, shift to the small chainring and increase the tension of the
Bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at
the entry to the gear shifter.
The Gears
Caution:
Adjusting the front and rear
derailleur accurately is a job
for an experienced mechan-
ic. Be sure to also read the
operating instructions of
the gear manufacturer on
the STEVENS CD-ROM. If you
have any problems with the
gears, please contact your
STEVENS dealer.
Caution:
Always check after an
accident whether the guide
plates of the front derailleur
are still parallel to the
chainrings!
Danger:
Be sure to go on a test ride in
a place free of trac, after
adjusting the gears of your
bicycle.
Danger:
Adjusting the front derailleur is a
very delicate job. Improper adjust-
ment can cause the chain to jump
o, thus interrupting suddenly the
drive force. This can cause a fall!
33
The Gears
6.2. Multi-Speed Hubs
One of the advantages of multi-speed hubs is their enclosed design
which prevents them from being soiled. Another advantage is the sim-
ple operation, i.e. all gears can be shifted through with one gear shifter.
The chain is not involved in the gear shifting, it is only important for
the force transmission and always runs on the same chainring/sprocket.
Due to these favourable factors, the chain lasts a lot longer than with
derailleur gears, provided regular care. Multi-speed hubs are availa-
ble in combination with freewheel and rim brake and with integrated
back-pedal brakes. The Rohloff gear hub and Shimano Alfine can also be
combined with disc brake.
6.2.1. Functioning and Operation
Multi-speed hubs are equipped with a twist grip or thumb shifter for
changing gears as well as with an indicator showing the current gear.
According to the hub manufacturer you can either continue pedalling
without load on the pedals or freewheel. For more information see the
operating instructions relating to the gears or ask your STEVENS dealer
for advice. In any case, make sure changing gears makes as little noise
as possible. Also observe the operating instructions of the gear manu-
facturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM.
6.2.2. Readjusting
The different gear steps are also adjusted via the cables. The systems of
different manufacturers differ a lot. The adjusting mechanism is mainly
located at the hub or at the gear shifter. There are two (red) marks which
have to be brought into alignment. Therefore also observe the operating
instructions of the gear manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM. In case
of inquiries ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
Danger:
Regularly check the reliable
t of the bolted connection
of the hub or back-pedal
brake support at the frame
(brake torque arm).
Danger:
Make yourself familiar with
the gears in a place free
of trac. Be sure to check
above all the brakes. If you
do so in road trac, prac-
tising shifting and braking
might draw o your atten-
tion from possible risks.
34
6.2.3. Checking the Chain Tension
In the case of multi-speed hubs which are not equipped with a sprung
load chain tensioner the tension of the drive chain has to be checked oc-
casionally, i.e. every 1,000 km (600 miles) according to use. The amount
of play, midway between chainring and sprocket, should not be more
than two centimetres.
6.2.3.1. Readjusting the Chain Tension on Bicycles with
Adjustable Drop-Outs
To adjust the chain tension the bolted connections of the rear wheel hub
have to be released on both sides. Pull the rear wheel to the rear and
retighten the rear wheel hub on both sides. Check the chain tension.
Make sure the amount of play midway between sprockets and chainring
is not more than two centimetres.
After adjusting the proper chain tension tighten the rear wheel axle bolt
to a torque of 30-45 Nm by using a torque wrench.
The Gears
Danger:
Insucient chain tension
can make the chain come
o, thus resulting in an
immediate loss of pedalling
resistance. The loss of drive
resulting thereof can result
in a loss of control and in an
accident with serious conse-
quences.
Danger:
Check regularly the reliable
t of the axle nuts on the
frame.
Caution:
An over tensioned chain
increases chain wear and
chainring wear considerably.
35
6.3. Chain Maintenance
It’s all that simple: Proper lubrication makes for enjoyable riding. What
counts are, however, not the quantity, but the distribution and regular
application of lubricant.
• Clean your chain from dirt and lubricant with an oily rag from time to
time. There is no need to use special degreasers.
• Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil,
wax or grease to the chain links.
• To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers while you
turn the crank. Once this is done, turn the cranks a few more times;
then let the bicycle rest for a few minutes so that the lubricant can
disperse.
• Finally rub off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter
around or attract dirt during riding.
6.3.1. Chain Wear
Although the chain is one of the wearing parts of your bicycle, there are
still ways of influencing its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated
regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which
run the chain in the straightest line between the sprockets and chain-
rings and get in the habit of high cadence pedalling. Chains running on
derailleur gears are often worn out as early as after about 1,000 to 3,000
km (600 to 1,800 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation
of derailleur gears. Cycling with a worn-out chain also accelerates the
wear of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is
relatively expensive compared with the costs of a new chain.
It is therefore advisable to check the condition of the chain at regular
intervals. For this purpose shift the chain on the large chainring. Take
the chain between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the
teeth. If you can lift it off clearly, it is seriously lengthened and probably
in need of replacement.
Chain Maintenance
Your STEVENS dealer has accurate measuring instruments for precise
chain inspection. Replacing the chain should be left to an expert, as
some of the modern chains are not equipped with a master link. Instead
they often have a continuous design and require special-purpose tools
for mounting. If you need help, ask your STEVENS dealer to select and
mount a chain appropriate to your gear system.
Danger:
Keep cleaning agent or
lubricants o the rotors and
the brake pads. In case this
happens nevertheless, clean
the rotor immediately with
pure isopropyl alcohol. Once
a brake rotor is soiled, it will
never be as eective as the
original one.
Note:
For the sake of the environ-
ment, only use biodegrada-
ble lubricants. Bear in mind
that some of the lubricant
can end up on the ground,
especially in wet conditions.
Danger:An improperly joined, insufficiently locked or
heavily worn chain can break and result in a fall.
Have the chain replaced by your STEVENS dealer.
36
7. The Wheels
The wheels of your bicycle create the contact to the road or track you are
riding on. They are subject to considerable stress through the weight
of rider, the luggage and through bumpy road surfaces or ground. Al-
though the wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered
accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes from losing a little
tension on the first kilometres. Ask your STEVENS dealer to true up the
wheels after you have bedded them in over about 100 to 300 kilometres
(60 to 180 miles). Check the wheels regularly after you have run them in.
It will rarely be necessary to tighten the spokes.
The wheel consists of hub, spokes and rim. The tyre is mounted onto the
rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running around
the base of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the spoke
nipples and the edges of the rim base, which are often sharp.
7.1. Tyres, Tubes, Rim Tapes, Valves, Inflation
Pressure
The tyres provide grip and traction on the road which is absolutely nec-
essary for braking, accelerating and taking turns.
In addition, they provide smooth running and riding comfort by absorb-
ing inferior shocks. The cross-country mobility or the inclination of the
road depends on the nature of the tyre carcass and the tyre tread. As
some of the requirements are mutually exclusive, there are many differ-
ent tyre types for different uses. Ask your STEVENS dealer to inform you
about the best tyre for you.
If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the actual size of the
old tyre. It is marked on the side of the tyre. There are two designations:
One of the sizes is the standardised size in millimetres which is more
precise, the number sequence 50 - 559 means that the tyre is 50 mm
wide when fully inflated and has an inner diameter of 559 millimetres.
The other designation for this tyre reads 26 x 1.90 which refers to inch-
es. Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure in order to work
properly. Adequately inflated tyres are also more resistant to flats. An
insufficiently inflated inner tube can easily get pinched (“snake-bit-
ten”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side
of the tyre or on the type label. The lower of the two pressure specifi-
cations makes for better cushioning and is therefore best for off-road
cycling. Rolling resistance decreases with growing pressure, but so does
comfort. A high tyre pressure is therefore most suitable for riding on
tarred roads. A higher pressure hardly means a lower resistance, it only
makes the tyre harder.
Ask your STEVENS dealer for advice. Inflation pressure is often given in
the old system of units, i.e. in psi (pounds per square inch). The table
on the right gives the most common pressure values in terms of three
systems. The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air. Therefore,
an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure.
The tube is pumped up via a valve.
An exception to this are the tubeless systems for mountain bikes. In this
case, the rim and the tyre hold the air without inner tube. To find out
whether or not you have tubeless tyres, look for the UST-marking. The
valve is provided with a plastic cap to protect it from dirt. The tubeless-
ready-tyres are not tubeless tyres. By adding a special sealing fluid they
can however be converted to tubeless tyres.
The Wheels
Caution:
If you have a bicycle with
tubular tyres, please read
the instructions of the tyre/
rim manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM.
37
The Wheels
There are three valve types in general use on today’s bicycles
• Dunlop or Woods valves, the usual valves
• Sclaverand or race valves: This type is nowadays used on almost all
types of bicycles. It is designed to withstand extremely high pres-
sures
• Schrader or car valve: This is an adapted car tyre valve which is mainly
used on mountain bikes.
These three valve types are fitted with a plastic cap to protect them
from dirt. The car valve can be inflated with a suitable pump directly
after removing the protective cap.
Tyres with car valves can conveniently be inflated at car filling stations
with a compressed air dispenser. A compressed air dispenser must be
used very carefully as you may otherwise overinflate the tyre. It might
burst. To let out air press the needle in the centre of the valve by using
e.g. a spanner/key.
Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres to the necessary
pressure. A better choice is a stand or foot operated pump equipped
with a manometer which enables you to check the pressure at home.
Your STEVENS dealer has adapters for all valve types. They allow you to
inflate any type of inner tube at the filling station.
Replace tyres with a worn tread or brittle or frayed sides. Dampness and
dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure. Re-
place spoilt rim tapes immediately. In the extreme case, the inner tube
may suddenly burst!
Conversion table for tyre pressure psi in bar
psibarpsibarpsibar
302.1704.81107.6
402.8805.51208.3
503.5906.21309.0
604.11006.91409.7
With race valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and
press it in carefully until air starts to escape. With this valve type it may
happen that the valve body is not screwed in properly and that air leaks
out slowly. Check the seat of the valve body in its stem.
Danger:
Treat your tyres well, in
particular avoid sharp edges
where possible! Never inate
your tyres beyond the max-
imum permissible pressure,
otherwise they might burst
or come o the rim during
the ride. Risk of falling!
Danger:
Always ride your bicycle
with the prescribed tyre
pressure and check the pres-
sure at regular intervals.
38
The Wheels
7.2. Rim Trueness, Spoke Tension
The spokes connect the rim to the hub in the middle of the wheel. An
even spoke tension makes for the true running of the wheel. If the ten-
sion of individual spokes changes, e.g. as a result of riding too fast over
a kerb or due to spoke breakage, the tensile forces acting on the rim
become unbalanced and the wheel will no longer run true.
The functioning of your bicycle may even be impaired before you notice
the wobbling appearance of a wheel that has gone out of true.
With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An
untrue wheel can impair the braking effect.
It is therefore advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to
time. For this purpose lift the wheel from the ground and spin it with
your hand. Watch the gap between rim and brake pad or, in the case of
disc brakes, between frame and rim or tyre. If the gap varies by more
than a millimetre, you should ask a skilled mechanic to true up the
wheel. Untrue rims can be an indication of tyres with ruptured sides or
broken axles or spokes.
7.3. Wheel Fastening with Axle-Nuts, Quick-
Releases or Thru Axles
The wheels are fastened with the hub axles to the frame. The axle is
clamped tight in the drop-outs by means of hexagon nuts or a quick-re-
lease.
7.3.1. Wheel Fastening with Axle-Nuts
Axle-nuts are usually released or tightened with a 15-mm-open-end
wrench. You should take this tool with you on a cycle tour, as punctures
can hardly be repaired without this tool.
7.3.2. Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases
If you have a quick-release, you do not need any tool. Just release the
lever, unscrew it a few turns, if necessary, and take out the wheel. This
is just as easy for a potential thieve!
For this reason you can replace the quick-releases by special locks. They
can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key.
The front wheel has normally drop-out catches which are intended to
hold the wheel safe in case the fastening gets loose. Although the use of
quick-releases is theoretically very easy, they have repeatedly been the
cause of accidents as a result of a wrong handling. Quick-release reten-
tion mechanisms essentially consist of two manipulable parts:
a. The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force
via a cam when you close it.
b. The tightening nut on the other side of the hub with which the
preload on the threaded rod is set.
Danger:
Do not ride with untrue
wheels. In the case of ex-
treme side-to-side wobbles,
the brake pads can miss the
rim and get caught in the
spokes! This normally results
in an immediate blocking of
the wheels. Risk of falling!
Note:
Truing wheels is a difficult
job which you should defi-
nitely leave to your STEVENS
dealer!
39
7.3.2.1. How to Securely Fasten the Wheel with Quick-
Releases
• Open the quick-release. You should now be able to read “Open” on
the lever.
• Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read
“CLOSE” on the outside of the lever. From the start of the closing
movement up to about the first half of its travel the lever should
move very easily, i.e. without clamping the wheel.
• Over the second half of its travel, the force you need to move it,
should increase considerably. Towards the end of its travel the lever
should be very hard to move. Use the ball of your thumb while your
fingers pull on an immovable part such as the fork. In its end position
the lever should be parallel to the bike, i.e. it should not stick out to
the side. The lever must lie close to the frame or fork so that it cannot
be opened accidentally.
• To check whether the lever is securely locked try to turn it while it is
closed. Press on the end of the lever from the front side.
• If you can turn the lever around, the wheel is not securely fastened.
Open it and increase the preload. Screw the tightening nut on the
opposite side clockwise by half a turn.
• Close the lever again and check it again for tightness. If the lever can
no longer be turned, it is properly fastened.
• Finally lift the bike a few centimetres from the ground so that the
wheel is suspended and hit the tyre from above. If it is properly
fastened, the wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the
frame.
The Wheels
40
7.3.3. Wheel Fastening with Thru Axles
There is a wide range of thru-axle-systems available now. Some systems
are tightened with quick-releases. Other systems may require special
toolsfor assembly or disassembly.
7.3.3.1. RockShox Maxle thru-axle-system
If your bike is equipped with a Maxle thru-axle-system, put the wheel
into the fork and mount the rotor in the brake calliper. Bring the wheel
into the right position between the drop-outs and slide the axle with
open Maxle quick-release levers from the right side through the drop-
out and the hub.
Make sure the quick-release lever is completely open and lies in the axle
recess. As soon as the axle thread engages with the thread of the left
fork leg, close the axle by turning it clockwise. During the first rotations
you should be able to rotate the thru axle nearly without resistance.
Now turn the lever forcefully clockwise until the axle is hand-tight.
Make sure the quick-release lever does not slip out of the axle recess
during tightening. Finish by closing the Maxle thru axle quick-release
lever like a usual quick-release lever. Make sure the quick-release lever
does not stand out to the front or to the side.
7.3.3.2. Fox E-Thru 15 mm
If your bike is equipped with a Fox E-Thru 15-mm-thru-axle-system, put the
front wheel into the fork and mount the rotor in the brake calliper. Bring
the front wheel into the right position between the drop-outs and slide
the axle with open E-Thru quick-release lever from the left side through the
drop-out and the hub. As soon as the axle thread engages with the thread
of the right fork leg, close it by turning it clockwise. During the rst rota-
tions you should be able to rotate the thru axle nearly without resistance.
Tighten the axle a little and then release it by about a third of a turn.
Close the E-Thru quick-release lever like a usual quick-release lever.
From the start of the closing movement up to about the first half of its
travel the lever should move very easily without clamping the wheel,
whereas over the second half of its travel the force you need to move
it should increase considerably. Towards the end of its travel the lever
should be very hard to move.
If the lever cannot be closed completely, re-open it and turn the axle a
little anticlockwise. Try closing the quick-release lever once again. Use
the palm of your hand while your fingers pull on an immovable part,
such as the fork leg, but not on a spoke or the rotor. In its end posi-
tion the quick-release lever should be tight so that it can no longer be
turned. Make sure the quick-release lever does not stand out to the front
or to the side. The best closing position is in nearly upright position in
front of the lower leg.
The Wheels
Danger:
Check the tight t of
whatever wheel fastening
system possible after a few
kilometres (miles) or hours
of use, at the latest however
after 4 hours or 80 km (50
miles). A loose wheel fasten-
ing can throw the rider o
his bike with unforeseeable
consequences for life and
limb.
41
7.3.3.3. Fox 20 mm
If you have a Fox 20-mm-system, open both quick-release levers in the
bottom area of both fork legs to mount the front wheel. Put the front
wheel into the fork and mount the rotor at the same time in the brake
calliper.
Bring the front wheel into the right position between the drop-outs and
slide the axle from the right side through the drop-out and the hub.
Unfold the lever from the axle. As soon as the axle thread engages with
the thread of the right fork leg, close it by turning it clockwise.
During the first rotations you should be able to rotate the thru axle
nearly without resistance. Tighten the axle until it is hand-tight. Re-
fold the lever of the thru axle. Close both quick-release levers. From the
start of the closing movement up to about the first half of its travel the
levers should move very easily without clamping the wheel, whereas
over the second half of its travel the force you need to move it should
increase considerably. Towards the end of its travel you should clearly
feel resistance.
Use, if necessary, the palm of your hand while your fingers pull on an
immovable part, such as the fork leg, but not on a spoke or the rotor.
7.3.3.4. SR SUNTOUR QLOCK-system 15 mm
If your bike is equipped with a SR SUNTOUR QLOCK-system 15 mm, put
the wheel into the fork and mount the rotor, if available, in the brake
calliper. Bring the wheel into the right position between the drop-outs.
Open the quick-release lever of the SR SUNTOUR thru axle fully. Turn
the counter nut on the thru axle anticlockwise until the expander re-
leases. Slide the axle with open QLOCK quick-release lever and released
expander from the right side through the drop-out and the hub until
the thru axle engages with a clear “click”. Now turn the quick-release
lever forcefully clockwise until the axle is hand-tight. Finish by closing
the quick-release lever like a usual quick-release lever. Make sure the
quick-release lever does not stand out to the front or to the side.
The Wheels
42
7.4. Repairing Punctures
Tyre punctures can happen to any cyclist. As long as you have the neces-
sary tools for changing tyres and tubes and a spare tube or a tyre repair
kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle tour, however. For bikes
with quick-releases all you need are two tyre levers made of plastic and
a pump; if your wheels are secured with nuts you also need a suitable
wrench for removing the wheel.
7.4.1. Wheel Removal
• If your bicycle has cantilever brakes and V-brakes you first have
to disengage the brake cable from the brake arm. To do this grip
around the wheel with one hand and press the brake pads and arms
together. In this position it should be easy to disengage the usually
barrel-shaped nipple or, in the case of V-brakes, the outer cable.
• In the case of hydraulic rim brakes deflate the tyre completely or
dismount one brake unit, if you have a quick-release brake. Be sure
to read the operating instructions of the brake manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM. Make sure to fix the brake pad exactly in parallel
to the braking surface of the rim when mounting this brake unit.
The Wheels
Danger:
Never ride a bicycle with-
out having rst checked
whether the wheels are
securely fastened! A wheel
that comes loose during the
ride will throw you o your
bicycle!
Danger:
Make sure the levers of both
quick-releases are always on
the side opposite the chain
drive. This will help you to
avoid mounting the front
wheel the wrong way round.
In the case of disc brakes we
recommend for a reliable
clamping that you position
the quick-release on the side
of the chain drive.
Note:
If your bicycle is equipped
with quick-releases, be
sure to lock the frame to an
immovable object together
with the wheels when you
leave it outside.
43
The Wheels
• In the case of drum, back-pedal brakes and multi-speed hubs
release the torque arm supporting the drive and brake forces to the
frame.
• If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the me-
dium or small chainring or to the smallest sprocket before removing
the wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right to the outside where
it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel and the chain
tension is not too high.
• If you have disc brakes and dismount the wheel for the first time,
check the exact position and condition of the brake pads and/or wear
indicators (ear or nose-shaped metal protrusions). This will help you
to verify subsequently, whether the brake pads are still in the proper
position after dismounting. Open the quick-release of the wheel, as
usually. Compared to all other brake systems the disc brake does not
interfere with the removal of the wheel; the wheel can immediately
be removed from the drop-outs. Do not activate the brake lever as
long as the wheel is dismounted; this would change the position of
the brake pads. This can make the brake drag along the disc after the
remounting.
• Open the nut or the quick-release, as described in chapter “Wheel
Fastening with Quick-Releases”. If you cannot remove the wheel after
releasing the lever or nut, it is probably still being held in place by
drop-out catches. They come as projections which jut into the drop-
outs or as metal securing devices reaching into a recess of the drop-
out. In these cases, just release the quick-release adjusting nut by a
few turns and slip the wheel past the catch.
Caution:
Do not pull on the brake
lever after dismounting a
wheel when your bicycle has
hydraulic brakes.
Note:
Insert the transport locks
in the brake callipers of the
disc brake when you have
dismounted the wheel.
44
• You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, if you pull the rear
derailleur rearwards a little.
• Lift the bicycle off the ground and give the wheel a gentle tap with
your hand so that it drops out.
7.4.2. Removing Clincher and Folding Tyres
• Screw the valve cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate
the tyre completely.
• Press the tyre over its entire circumference from the sides towards
the centre of the rim. This will ease the removal.
• Apply the tyre lever to one bead of the tyre opposite the valve and
lever the tyre out of the rim in this area. Hold the tyre lever tight in
its position.
• Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a point about ten
centimetres beyond the first one and lever the next portion of the
bead over the edge of the rim.
The Wheels
Danger:
Do not le o the drop-out
catches!
45
• After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you
should normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by mov-
ing the tyre lever around the whole circumference.
• Now you can pull out the inner tube. Take care the valve does not get
caught, as this can damage the inner tube.
For this type of rim only use rim tapes made of fabric or durable plas-
tic. In case you are in doubt about the rim tape, contact your STEVENS
dealer.
7.4.3. Mounting Clincher and Folding Tyres
When mounting a tyre make sure no foreign matter such as dirt or sand
gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube.
• Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your thumbs, press the
bead over the edge of the rim over the entire circumference. You
should be able to do this without any tools, regardless of the type of
tyre. Stick the valve of the tube through the hole in the rim.
The Wheels
• Inspect the inflated tube and look for the puncture. A bucket of water
may help you.
• Repair the puncture according to the operating instructions of the
repair kit manufacturer.
• After having removed the tyre, you should check the rim tape. The
tape should lie squarely in the base of the rim covering all spoke ends
and should neither be torn nor brittle. In the case of double wall rims
the tape must cover the entire rim base, but it should not be so broad
as to stand up along the inside edges of the rim trough.
Note:
If you have a puncture while
riding, do not pull out the
inner tube completely. Leave
the valve sticking in the rim
and rst look for the hole
where the air escapes. Pump
up the inner tube. When you
have found the hole, look for
the corresponding place on
the tyre and examine it. Of-
ten you will nd the foreign
body sticking in the tyre.
46
• Inflate the inner tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it
into the tyre all the way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in
the tube.
• To finish mounting the tyre start at the point opposite the valve. Us-
ing your thumbs, press the second bead of the tyre over the edge
of the rim as far as you can. Make sure the inner tube does not get
pinched and squashed between tyre and rim. This is prevented by
pushing the inner tube into the tyre hollow with a finger as you work
along.
• Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically
from both sides. Towards the end you will have to pull the tyre vig-
orously downwards to make the already mounted portion of the tyre
slip towards the deepest part of the rim base. This will ease the job
noticeably on the last centimetres.
• Check again the proper seat of the inner tube inside the tyre and
press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim by using the
balls of your thumb. It will help you to bring the wheel to rest on your
hip.
• If this does not work, you will have to use tyre levers. Make sure the
blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not
get damaged.
• Press the valve deep into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get
caught between rim and tyre beads. Does the valve stand upright? If
not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube. To make
sure the inner tube does not get pinched between rim and bead,
inflate the tyre a little and then move it sideways back and forth
between the sides of the rim. While doing this you can also check
whether the rim tape has been displaced.
• Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure
is indicated on the side of the tyre.
• Check the proper seat of the tyre by means of the “witness line” on
the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim. Make sure the
witness line is even with the rim edge all the way around the tyre.
The Wheels
47
7.4.4. Removing Tubeless Tyres
Deflate the tyre completely. Use your hands to press the tyre from the
sides towards the centre of the rim, until both beads lie slack in the cen-
tre of the rim. Start dismounting the tyre at the point opposite the valve
and lift one tyre bead with your fingers over the edge of the rim. Slip
the entire tyre bead over the rim. Then pull the other bead off the rim,
as well.
7.4.5. Mounting Tubeless Tyres
Before mounting a tyre make sure it is free of dirt and lubricant on the
inside and around the beads. Wet both beads all around with soapy wa-
ter or with tyre fitting lubricant before mounting. Do not use tyre levers!
Press the tyre onto the rim with your hands only to avoid damage to
the beads. Press one bead over its entire circumference over one edge
of the rim. Then press the second tyre bead over the rim edge. Centre
the tyre in the rim. Make sure the tyre is properly seated in the rim base
and the beads lie symmetrically on either side of the valve. Inflate the
tyre to its maximum air pressure. The pressure is usually specified on
the side of the tyre.
The Wheels
48
In doing so the tyre engages with the rim. Check whether the tyre is
properly seated by inspecting the fine witness line all around the tyre
just above the side of the rim. This witness line should be even to the
rim all around the tyre. Finish by adjusting the air pressure through the
valve from the maximum pressure. Please observe the recommended
tyre pressure range.
The Wheels
7.4.6. Mounting Wheels
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make
sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately cen-
tred between the fork legs or the rear and chainstays.
Check the proper seat of the quick-release and the drop-out catches, as
described in chapter “Wheel Fastening with Quick-Releases” and hook
in the brake immediately! Also check the proper seat of the thru axles,
if available, as described in chapter “Wheel Fastening with Quick-Re-
leases”.
Spin the wheel and do a brake test. Make sure it does not drag.
Danger:
In the case of disc brakes,
make sure the rotor does not
drag on the brake calliper
or the brake pads! Inappro-
priate wheel mounting can
make you loose control of
your bicycle and result in
an accident! If your bicycle
has rim brakes, connect
the brake cable and check
whether the brake pads hit
the braking surfaces, before
you set o again. Make sure
the wheel is properly seated
and firmly fixed in the drop-
outs. After mounting the
wheel make sure the brake
pads or the rim are free of
grease or other lubricants.
Be sure to do a brake test!
49
8. The Headset
The headset connects fork, stem, handlebars and front wheel to the
frame, but allows them to turn freely as a unit. It must turn with vir-
tually no resistance, if the bicycle is to run straight, stabilising itself as
it travels. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces expose the headset to
considerable levels of stress. It may therefore happen to become loose
and maladjusted.
8.1. Checking the Bearing Play
• Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper
head cup.
• Pull the front brakes with your other hand and push the bicycle firmly
back and forth with the wheel remaining on the ground.
• If there is play in the bearing, the upper head cap will move noticea-
bly relative to the lower cup and you will feel a jerk.
• Another way to check the headset is to lift the front wheel a little off
the ground and then let it drop. If there is play in the bearing, you will
hear a rattling noise in this area.
• To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the frame until the front
wheel no longer touches the ground. Move the handlebars from the
left to the right. The front wheel should turn very easily from far left
to far right and back without catching anywhere. A light tap on the
handlebars should be enough to turn the wheel to the side.
8.2. Adjusting Conventional Headsets
For the adjustment of conventional headsets you need two flat, open-
end wrenches. Depending on the diameter of the headset the width of
the open-end wrench is 32 millimetres at least.
• Hold the front wheel tight between your legs, apply the wrench and
release to top counter nut.
• Turn the lower bearing cup race a little downwards. Do not tighten
the bearing cup race! This could damage the bearing immediately.
• Keep the bearing cup race tight with a wrench to maintain the ad-
justment. Tighten the counter nut with the second open-end wrench
against the bearing cup race.
• Check it again for play. If the fork cannot be turned without any
resistance and play, the bearing is improperly adjusted. Adjust the
bearing play once again. This procedure of adjusting can take several
attempts. The important thing is that the bearing turns without any
resistance and play. This is the only way to ensure a long service life.
The Headset
Danger:
Riding the bike with a loose
headset increases the stress
on fork and bearing. This can
result in fork breakage with
severe consequences!
Caution:
Adjusting the headset
requires a certain amount
of experience and should
therefore be left to your
STEVENS dealer. If you want
to try it on your own, be
sure to read the operating
instructions of the head-
set manufacturer on the
STEVENS CD-ROM before
doing any adjusting.
50
8.3. Adjusting the Threadless Headset:
Aheadset® Headsets
The special feature of this system is that the stem is not encased by, but
rather clamped onto the steerer tube, which in this case is threadless.
The stem is an important part of the headset bearings. Its clamping
force secures the bearing in its set position.
Some frames are delivered with the headset already mounted in the
steerer tube. The headset is then no longer visible. There is a seamless
transition of spacer and the fork into the steerer tube. The adjustment of
the bearing is the same as with the usual Aheadset®-headset. But in this
case you check the bearing play in the transition area of frame and fork.
• Release the clamping bolt(s) located on the side of the stem by one to
two complete turns.
• Gently tighten a little the countersunk adjusting bolt on the top, i.e.
by a quarter turn at the most, by using an Allen key.
• Realign the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slant-
ed when the wheel points straight ahead.
The Headset
• Retighten a little the clamping bolt(s) of the stem until the stem no
longer turns relative to the fork. Do not exceed the torque values
specified by the stem manufacturer, see chapter “Recommended
Torque Settings“.
• Check the headset for play, as described further above. Take care not
to overtighten the bearings, as this could easily damage them.
Danger:
Check the secure seat of the
stem after having adjusted
the bearings, by holding the
front wheel between your
knees and trying to twist
the handlebars relative to
the front wheel. A loose
stem can throw you o your
bicycle!
Caution:
Do not overtighten the
upper bolt, it only serves
the purpose of adjusting the
bearing play, not of securing
the stem!
Caution:In the case of full carbon forks the torque values
are often clearly below the specifications of the
stem manufacturers. A sufficient clamping is usually already achieved
with inferior forces. Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed
maximum torque value in small steps until the stem no longer turns
relative to the fork or front wheel. Too high torque values can destroy the
steerer tube! To ensure a larger clamping surface, slide a spacer on top of
the stem.
51
9. Special Characteristics of Carbon and
Framesets
As is the case with all lightweight products and in particular with prod-
ucts made of carbon (carbon-fibre-reinforced plastics), also referred to
as CRP, some characteristics have to be kept in mind with the STEVENS
mountain bike carbon components.
Carbon is an extremely strong material which combines high resist-
ance with low weight. However, carbon is brittle and when subject to
an overload it does not show any deformation, even though its inner
structure may be damaged already. In contrast to steel or aluminium,
carbon components that have sustained damage to their inner fibres as
a result of excessive stress will show no outwardly visible deformation.
Carbon components that have been subjected to overstress are liable to
fail during use, possibly causing an accident with unforeseeable conse-
quences. If you have had a critical incident with your bicycle, we advise
you to have the relevant component inspected or the whole bicycle by
your bicycle dealer. If necessary, they can contact our after-sales depart-
ment for any inquiries.
For safety reasons components made of carbon must not be repaired.
Replace a damaged component immediately! Prevent further use by
third parties by taking appropriate measures.
Components made of carbon should under no circumstances be exposed
to excessive heat. Therefore, never have a carbon component enamelled
or powder-coated. The temperatures required for doing so could destroy
it. Do not leave carbon items in a car in direct sunlight for prolonged
periods or near sources of heat.
Like all extremely lightweight components, carbon components have a
limited service life. The handlebars and stem should therefore be re-
placed at regular intervals, e.g. every 2 years, depending on frequency
and intensity of use, even if they have not been involved in accidents or
similar incidents.
Please note that loads as a result of a fall can also damage the frame.
In particular falls on sharp-edged objects, such as coarse gravel, can
compromise the frame structure. If you are in doubt, ask your STEVENS
dealer to check the frame.
9.1. Care Instructions
Components made of carbon reinforced fibre should be cleaned with a
soft rag and clear water. Add, if necessary, a little washing up liquid.
Remove tough stains of oil or grease with a petroleum-based cleaning
agent. Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, trichloroeth-
ylene, methyl chloride etc., solvents or non-neutral, chemical or sol-
vent-containing cleaning agents that could attack the surface!
You can use car wax to protect the surface and make it shine. Polishing
agents contain solid constituents that might attack the surface.
Carbon and Framesets
Danger:
If carbon components
on your STEVENS bicycle
produce any creaking or
cracking noises or show any
external sign of damage,
such as gouges, cracks,
dents, discolourations etc.,
do not use the STEVENS
bicycle any longer. Contact
your bicycle dealer imme-
diately; they will check the
component thoroughly.
52
9.2. Aluminium and Carbon Framesets
STEVENS offers certain high-quality carbon and aluminium frames as
bare framesets. The person completing the frame and mounting the
add-on parts must therefore ensure that all components are compati-
ble and properly mounted. STEVENS cannot be held responsible for any
component combination possible. For this reason it absolutely impossi-
ble to describe every conceivable option in this manual. We therefore
strongly recommend that you always read the component manufactur-
ers’ operating instructions on the STEVENS CD-ROM, as well.
Be aware that these instructions may require further explanation, de-
pending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work.
For some jobs you may require additional (special) tools, e.g. a torque
wrench, or supplementary instructions.
Improper assembly can render the bicycle unsafe. Have your bicycle
therefore assembled by an authorized STEVENS partner.
Frames are delivered ready for assembly, i.e. with threads cut and bear-
ing seats and seat tube faced. There is no need for any reworking on
the frame.
Do not modify the frame or its functioning parts, e.g. the adjustable
cable guides etc., by filing, boring or the like.
Be sure to use high-quality assembly grease when mounting add-on
parts to the frame. Except: for carbon seat posts in general, but also
for aluminium seat posts in carbon frames and stems on carbon forks.
In these cases you should use special carbon assembly paste! This helps
to avoid corrosion. Otherwise you may find it impossible to disassemble
the bicycle after a certain period of time.
Protect the areas which are exposed to stone chips, to abrasion by the
cables and to contact with the chain with transparent adhesive film.
These areas are in particular located on the underside of the down tube,
on the head tube and on the chainstay on the side of the chain drive. You
can also use special neoprene chainstay protectors.
Note when mounting the stem, the handlebars and the brake levers/
shifters that they do not touch the top tube when turning front wheel,
fork, stem and handlebars to the side. In case of a fall, they may other-
wise collide and damage the top tube on this occasion.
Carbon and Framesets
Caution:
Do not clamp the frame
on an assembly stand by
its tubes! This could cause
damage to the thin-walled
tubes. First mount a sturdy
aluminium seat post and use
this to clamp the frame, or
use an assembly stand which
holds the frame at three
points from inside or which
holds the fork and bottom
bracket shell.
Caution:
For your own safety, never
do any work unless you feel
absolutely sure about it. If
you are in doubt, ask your
STEVENS dealer for help!
53
Seat post
If you have a STEVENS Scope team, Juke team, Fluent team und Glide
team frame, the seat post diameter must be 31.6 ±0.05 mm. Please note
the instructions on mounting and adjusting the seat post and the saddle
in chapter “Adjusting the Saddle to the Correct Height”.
Headset
All frames are delivered with fully mounted bearing cups and an inte-
grated headset.
Some frames have a threadless pressfit bottom bracket, the shell width
is 92 mm. In this case the bearing cups are press fitted directly into the
frame. For mounting and dismounting of such pressfit bottom brackets
contact your STEVENS dealer.
Rear frame width:
135 ± 0.5 mm (quick-release)
142 ± 0.5 mm (thru axle)
Replaceable derailleur hanger:
Secure the bolts with medium/strong non-permanent threadlocker (re-
movable with tools) and observe the torque value of 2 - 3 Nm. Do not
exceed the maximum torque of 3 Nm.
Carbon and Framesets
The frames are designed for the following fork travels:
Scope, Haze, Juke, Manic, Wave, Stock, Fluent Lady: 100 mm
Fluent: 120 mm
Glide: 140 mm
Ridge: 160 mm
Bottom bracket bearing:
Thread type: BSC 1.270 x 24TPI, (right side left hand threading!)
The housing width is 68 ± 0.5 mm.
The housing width for presst is 92 mm (or 89.5 mm with 2.5 mm spacer).
Common cartridge bearings can be mounted directly into the bottom
bracket shell of all models with high-grade grease.
Observe the torque specifications of the bottom bracket manufacturer.
Danger:
Whoever assembles the
bicycle from a bare frame
carries the responsibility
for ensuring that the com-
ponents are selected and
mounted in accordance with
the manufacturers’ guide-
lines, generally accepted
standards and the state
of the art in science and
technology. In case there
are any questions regarding
compatibility of individual
parts with the frame, please
contact our after-sales
department.
54
Bottle Cage
Observe a tightening torque of 2 - 3 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum
torque of 3 Nm.
Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maximum permissible
torque in small steps. Check the secure seat of the component, as de-
scribed in the relevant chapters.
For parts with no torque range given, tighten the bolts gradually and
check in between regularly the reliable fit of the component.
9.3. Carbon Handlebars
• Mountain bike handlebars made of carbon are only designed for
cross-country and marathon bicycles, as well as for the respective
intended use.
• Do not use bar ends on carbon handlebars which are not designed for
bar ends.
• Do not shorten, modify or change the handlebars or the stem.
• Make sure the brake levers are always within easy reach.
9.3.1. Mounting Carbon Handlebars
• Verify that the stem and the handlebars tube always have matching
clamp diameters! Stems with a 31.8 mm clamping are for example
only compatible with handlebars with a clamping diameter of 31.8
mm.
Mounting non-matching parts may cause the clamping to fail and lead
to a serious crash. We recommend that you always combine components
of the same manufacturer, as they are designed to fit and function as
an integrated system. STEVENS assumes no responsibility for problems
resulting from carbon handlebars delivered by STEVENS being used with
an unsuitable stem.
In case you prefer the stem of another manufacturer, please contact
their sales department and get more information on the clamping diam-
eter and combination possibility with carbon handlebars. Also observe
in this case the mounting instructions of the stem manufacturer.
Carbon and Framesets
Note:
Some components have
torque values printed or
labelled on them. Be sure
to observe these maximum
values. Also observe the
operating instructions of the
component manufacturers
on the STEVENS CD-ROM.
Caution:
Handlebars or brake levers/
shifters can damage the
frame when they are turned
too far to the side. If you
have a carbon frame this
can lead to cracks in the top
tube. This is a typical dam-
age of many bicycles and
therefore not covered by the
warranty.
55
• Before mounting check all clamping surfaces of the stem for sharp
edges and burrs. Do not use such stems, but replace them instead. If
you have no choice, remove these sharp edges or burrs on your own.
Replace the handlebars of an existing stem, also check the handle-
bars after removal. Notches in the clamping area indicate defective
processing of the stem in these areas. If you fit a new stem on a full
carbon fork, check the steerer tube. Ask your STEVENS dealer in case
you have the slightest doubt and replace, if necessary, the damaged
part. Your safety comes first.
Mount your new carbon handlebars and make sure it is accurately cen-
tred in the stem. The handlebars should slide easily into the stem clamp.
There should be no play.
Carbon and Framesets
Make sure the clamping areas are absolutely free of grease, especially
when the clamping surfaces are made of carbon.
• Slide the stem onto the fork steerer tube. It should fit snugly onto the
fork. Do not fit stems which have play on the steerer tube. Use special
carbon assembly paste to increase the clamping force.
• Tighten the greased bolts of the stem faceplate with your fingers by
a few turns. Tighten the bolts until the clamping slots between the
stem body and the faceplate are identical in width in the top and in
the bottom area.
• Tighten the fixing bolts alternately and in small increments to the
minimum limit of the recommended torque settings by using a
torque wrench. In the case of stems with four-bolt clamping, be sure
to tighten the bolts in a cross pattern. Check the reliable fit as de-
scribed in the operating instructions. In case the handlebars and the
stem are still not tight enough, increase the torque value until you
have reached the maximum torque value.
56
Check the reliable fit once again as described in the operating instruc-
tions. If a tight clamping of the handlebars in the stem or of the stem on
the fork cannot be achieved , the handlebars and the stem or the stem
and the fork are not compatible. Replace the stem by a suitable model.
9.4. Carbon Seat Posts
Seat posts made of carbon are only designed for cross-country and mar-
athon mountain bikes, as well as for the respective intended use.
• Check the shift/brake levers or the brake levers for burrs and sharp
edges in the clamping areas. Avoid rotatory movements during
mounting in general to avoid scratches.
• After you have found the correct position of the brake lever/shifter
units, tighten the clamping bolts to the minimum value of the recom-
mended torque value. In case the brake lever/shifter units are still not
tight enough, increase the torque value until you have reached the
maximum torque value specified by the component manufacturer.
Carbon and Framesets
Insert carbon seat posts only in frames with suitable seat post clamping.
Special seat post clampings reduce the forces occurring at the clamping
slot. Clamping areas with two or more clamping slots are perfect. They
provide an even spreading of the clamping forces, reduce the occurring
pressure and hence the risk of breakage.
Note:
Be sure to read the operat-
ing instructions of the brake
lever/shifter manufacturer
on the STEVENS CD-ROM
before mounting.
Danger:
Do not exceed the maximum
torque values specied by
the stem, handlebars or fork
manufacturers! Check the
torque values of all bolts
after the rst 100 to 300 km
(60 to 180 miles) and subse-
quently every 1,500 km (900
miles).
57
9.4.1. Mounting the Seat Post
Make sure your new seat post has the same diameter as the seat tube
of your frame. You should be able to insert the seat post easily into the
frame without pressing or turning. A mismatch between frame and seat
post can cause failure of the seat post.
Before mounting the seat post to the frame, make sure the seat tube is
absolutely free of lubricants, sharp edges and burrs. Clean and deburr
the seat tube, if necessary.
Carbon and Framesets
Make sure not to overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp.
Overtightening may cause a seat post failure, resulting in a crash and/
or injury of the rider. Use special carbon assembly paste to increase the
clamping force.
Danger:
Even a slight mismatch
between seat post and seat
tube diameter or oil and
grease in the seat tube can
lead to a rupture of the car-
bon seat post. This can result
in an accident or injury to
the rider. Use special carbon
assembly paste to increase
the clamping force.
Danger:
The minimum insertion
depth of your seat post
in the frame is 100 mm.
Never ride your bicycle if the
marking (MIN, MAX, STOPP,
END or the like) of the seat
post is visible.
58
10. Suspension Forks
There is a clear trend in bicycle technology towards greater riding com-
fort and safer handling. For this reason most mountain, trekking and
city bikes are fitted with suspension forks. The suspension fork gives you
better control of your bicycle when riding cross-country or on rough road
surfaces. It noticeably reduces the strain on you and your bike caused by
mechanical shocks. While there are various designs on the market, most
forks belong to the category of telescopic forks, which function similarly
to the spring elements commonly used on motorbikes.
10.1. Functioning
When the front wheel receives an impulse, the lower fork tubes (also
referred to as lower legs) are forced upwards. The lower fork tubes
travel on thinner upper fork tubes which are fixed to the fork crown by
means of a bolted connection or a glued or compression joint. The fork
retracts as a spring inside is compressed. The spring allows for the fork
to extend again and assume its original position. An undamped spring
would instantly extend again, giving a very uncomfortable ride. The fork
is equipped with an oscillation damper which prevents the fork from
springing back uncontrolled and provides a smooth return travel.
The telescopic forks differ in their spring elements and in the type of
damping. For elasticity these forks are provided with steel or titani-
um springs, special types of plastic (also referred to as elastomers) or
sealed air compartments or combinations of these options. The damping
is usually done by oil or by the self-damping properties of the elasto-
mers. Some models are equipped instead with friction or air damping
elements.
10.2. Adjusting Suspension Forks
To work perfectly, the fork has to be adjusted to the weight of the rider
and the intended use.
Adjusting the fork to your needs is easy, if you use a simple trick.
• Start adjusting the fork with the spring preload being completely
turned off and with the lowest damping step.
• Slip a cable tie onto the stanchion tube so that it can still shift easily
along the tube.
Suspension Forks
Caution:
Many simple forks do
not have a sophisticated
damping system and are not
comparable to high-quality
suspension forks in terms of
the riding behaviour.
59
• When you sit on your bicycle, the fork should yield in general, de-
pending on the suspension travel by approx. 10 to 25 % of the maxi-
mum suspension travel. If this is not the case, you have to change the
spring preload. If you cannot mount a cable tie above the stanchion
tube due to a bellow, ask a helper to measure in unloaded condition
from the upper edge of the fork crown to the ground. Sit on your bi-
cycle and measure once again.
• Ride your bicycle over different kinds of surface and check afterwards
how much of the fork’s travel was used. If the cable tie has only
moved a few millimetres, your fork is in too rigid adjustment; check
whether the preload of the springs has been turned off completely
and have the springs replaced, if necessary.
• If the cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you can
hear the fork bottom out, the spring is too flexible. Increase the
spring preload first and increase the pressure subsequently. If the
behaviour has not improved, have the springs replaced by an expert.
• If the spring adjustment meets your wishes, start optimizing the
damping. Approach in quarter or half turns and observe the speed
with which the fork rebounds.
Suspension Forks
If the damping is too low you feel as if the bicycle wants to throw
you off, as the return travel springs back uncontrolled. The more you
close the damping, the slower the spring rebounds, the smaller is
the oscillation effect. A too hard damping makes the fork compress
with shocks in quick succession, as it can no longer rebound quickly
enough.
The different suspension forks of different manufacturers differ a lot in
parts. Make sure you have received the fork instructions together with
the bicycle from your STEVENS dealer.
If necessary, download the instructions and further information on the
following websites on the internet:
www.sram.com
www.srsuntour-cycling.com
www.ridefox.com
www.toxoholics.de
Note:
If you cannot mount a cable
tie over your stanchion tube,
you need someone to ride
with you. He can observe the
behaviour of the fork during
the ride and give useful tips
for the adjustment.
Note:Almost all fork manufacturers include well-
written operating instructions with their deliver-
ies. You find these instructions on the STEVENS CD-ROM. Be sure to read
these carefully before changing any settings or doing any maintenance
work on your fork.
Note:Adjusting a suspension fork accurately takes quite
long and is a very delicate job. Be sure to read in
any case the operating instructions of the manufacturer on the STEVENS
CD-ROM. If you are in doubt, contact your STEVENS dealer.
60
10.3. Adjusting the Suspension Travel of
Suspension Forks
Some suspension forks have a system to change the suspension travel
and/or to block the system (lockout), that is activated by a button or
lever. Depending on the manufacturer the operation differs slightly.
10.4. Maintenance
Suspension forks are comparatively sophisticated components and
require a considerable amount of maintenance and care. This has led
almost all suspension fork manufacturers to establish service centres
where customers can have their forks thoroughly checked and over-
hauled at regular intervals. The following routines are essential for sus-
pension fork maintenance:
• Whatever type of fork you have, make sure the sliding surfaces of the
upper fork tubes are absolutely clean. Clean the fork with water and
a soft sponge after every ride. Apply a thin layer of suspension fork or
hydraulic oil on the lower legs after cleaning.
Suspension Forks
• Make it a rule to check all bolted connections of your fork at regular
intervals with a torque wrench.
• If your fork has an elastomer filling, you should regularly clean and
lubricate the synthetic springs. Use non-corrosive resin-free grease
only. Some fork manufacturers provide special greases for fork main-
tenance. Observe the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Suspension forks with air springs have to be checked regularly for air
pressure, as the air escapes over time.
Use a suitable torque wrench and observe the manufacturer’s torque
settings when checking the bolted connections on your suspension fork!
Danger:
Before and after the adjust-
ment check the tight t of
the bolted connection in the
centre in the top area of the
stanchion tubes. The adjust-
ing mechanism of almost all
forks runs through this bolt.
It could come loose during
adjustment!
Danger:
Do not turn any screws in
the vague hope of adjust-
ing them somehow. You
could release the fastening
mechanism, thus causing an
accident. All manufacturers
normally mark adjustment
devices with a scale or “+”
and “-“ signs.
Danger:Suspension forks are of sophisticated design.
The maintenance routines and above all the
disassembly of the fork are jobs best left to your STEVENS dealer.
Note:Check the functioning of the fork at regular
intervals. Stand over your bicycle and press the
fork downwards in jerks with your body weight. The suspension fork
must not bottom out. Observe the amount of time it takes for the fork
to rebound. It should take less time than the compression. If you are in
doubt about the proper functioning of your fork, contact your STEVENS
dealer.
61
11. Full Suspension of the Mountain Bike
Models
Full-suspension bikes are not only equipped with a suspension fork but
also with a movable rear frame which is sprung and shock damped by
a suspension strut. Depending on the system the rear shock has one or
more suspension axes with at least two bearings each.
Rear shocks work in general with a titanium coil, steel coil or air spring.
Damping is usually controlled by the use of oil.
Full Suspension
11.2. Adjusting to the Rider and the Riding Style
Rear shocks on STEVENS bicycles work with air-spring systems. Air-
spring elements can be adjusted to the weight the seating position of
the rider as well as to the desired spring characteristics. When your bicy-
cle has an air-spring element, the suspension strut of your bicycle must
be inflated before your first ride.
In doing so, please note some simple rules. The suspension strut of the
rear swing arm should retract slightly under the rider’s weight to al-
low for a little sag. When the rear wheel passes over a hole, the spring
extends and the suspension mechanism smoothens the uneven move-
ment. If the spring rate or the air pressure is set too high, this effect is
lost as the wheel will already be fully extended. This means the loss of
an important feature of safety and comfort.
The suspension strut must be designed and adjusted in a way that it
doesn’t bottom out. An air pressure is sensible and usually also clearly
hearable by the hard shocks caused by the sudden complete compres-
sion of the rear shock. If the rear shock frequently bottoms out, it will
sustain damage in the long term.
The suspension strut damping is controlled by valves inside which are
designed to modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with
which the suspension strut moves in and out.
In this way it is possible to optimise the response of your bicycle to ob-
stacles.
Furthermore, any oscillatory movement of the rear frame while pedal-
ling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard pedalling in
sitting it may be advisable to close, i.e. to lock the damping almost com-
pletely. On the other hand, for downhill rides on uneven ground it may
be better to open the damping system more or less completely.
11.1. What to Bear in Mind When Adjusting the
Saddle
Full-suspension mountain bikes yield a little when the rider sits on the
saddle. If you have trouble sitting, try lowering the saddle nose a little
relative to the usual position.
Note:
Full-suspension bikes have
a markedly greater ground
clearance than bikes without
suspension. If the saddle
is adjusted to its proper
height, you will not be able
to reach the oor with your
feet. Set the saddle a little
lower to begin with and
practise getting on and o
the saddle.
62
Adjusting the suspension is a delicate job, as even a small change on the
adjuster can have a big effect. Try to approach the optimal adjustment
gradually in steps or as a maximum in quarter turn.
11.2.1. Adjusting the Spring Rate
Cross-country and marathon racers usually run less sag than more com-
fort loving freeriders or downhillers who often ride over rough terrain.
For cross-country and marathon riding the rear shock should yield by
about 10-25 % of its total travel, for enduro and freeriding by about
20-40 %.
For measuring use the rubber ring which is mainly positioned on the
thinner suspension strut or mount a cable tie around the thinner tube
of the suspension strut so that it slides easily along the strut without
slipping all alone.
Put on the clothes you wear usually (including packed rucksack) and sit
on the bicycle; adopt your usual riding position and lean against a sturdy
object (wall etc.) so that you don’t topple over. Slide the rubber ring/
cable tie against the dust wiper on the suspension strut and come off
the bicycle to prevent that the rear frame doesn’t compress any further.
Full Suspension
The distance between the rubber ring/cable tie and the dust wiper is
the sag. Compare it to the total stroke of the rear shock (manufacturer’s
specification) to find out whether the suspension has to be adjusted
harder or softer.
Caution:
Do not exceed the maximum
pressure noted on the rear
shock or in the operating
instructions of the rear shock
manufacturer.
Caution:
Do not ride your bicycle, if
the rear shock bottoms out.
This could damage the rear
shock itself as well as the
frame.
Danger:Full suspension frames are designed in a way
to absorb shocks. If the rear shock is too rigid and
jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into the frame without
any damping. The frame is normally not designed to withstand such
undamped stresses. If your rear shock has a lockout mechanism, do not
activate the lockout function when riding in rough terrain, but only when
riding over smooth terrain (roads, field tracks).
63
The initial tension of most rear shocks with steel coil can be set to a
limited degree by an adjusting ring. If this is impossible and you cannot
adjust the designed sag, the steel coil must be replaced by a harder or
softer model. When replacing any parts, be sure to only use parts that
bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare
parts. Your STEVENS dealer will be pleased to help you.
In the case of air spring rear shocks the spring rate is set through the air
pressure in the suspension strut. The pressure must be adjusted with a
special high pressure pump with pressure indicator before your first ride
and adapted later, if necessary, to changes of the rider’s weight and/or
additional load. Note the suitable setting values and check them in the
following at regular intervals. Always observe the recommendations of
the manufacturers and do not exceed the maximum air pressure in the
suspension strut.
Go for a test ride every time you made a change. Ride your bicycle on dif-
ferent kinds of surface and check the travel of the rubber ring/cable tie
afterwards. The distance to the wiper is the maximum rear shock stroke
you have used. If the rubber ring/cable tie has moved a few millimetres
only, the setting of your rear shock is too hard. Reduce the air pressure or
in the case of rear shocks with steel coil the spring preload. If this does
not help, have the spring replaced.
If the rubber ring/cable tie has moved over the entire length of the tube
or if you can hear the rear shock repeatedly bottom out in the terrain,
the suspension is set too soft. In this case the spring preload/pressure
must be increased. If the adjustment range of the steel coil is too small,
have the coil replaced by your STEVENS dealer.
Full Suspension
Some suspension elements have a negative air chamber improving the
response behaviour. Increase the pressure in this chamber also accord-
ing to the instructions of the manufacturer.
Rear shocks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob
that is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement.
Sometimes a second knob (mainly blue) is available, which is to adjust
the speed of the compression movement and/or to activate the lockout
function.
Start the adjusting with a completely open damping (rebound and
compression damping “-“). Ride over an obstacle (e.g. a kerb) and turn
the rebound damping in small steps towards the “+” setting. You have
found the proper rebound setting when the rear frame does not cycles
more than once.
Note:
Rear shock manufacturers
normally include compre-
hensible instructions with
their deliveries. You nd
these instructions on the
STEVENS CD-ROM. Be sure to
read them carefully before
changing any settings or do-
ing any maintenance work.
64
Full Suspension
Adjusting the compression damping requires a great deal of skill and
experience. A weaker damping provides a good response behaviour. Un-
der certain circumstances this may result in a too strong compression or
bobbing of the rear frame when cycling out of the saddle over obstacles,
such as steps. A stronger damping makes the suspension harder, thus
reducing the riding comfort. Always check a modified adjustment by
doing a test ride in the terrain.
If you are not confident enough to adjust the damping on your own or
in case you face any problems, contact your STEVENS dealer and observe
the respective instructions in the operating instructions of the rear
shock manufacturer on the STEVENS CD-ROM.
The different rear shocks of different manufacturers differ a lot in parts.
Make sure you have received the rear shock instructions together with
the bicycle from your STEVENS dealer.
If necessary, download the instructions and further information on the
following websites on the internet:
www.ridefox.com
www.toxoholics.de
www.sram.com
11.3. How to Block the Rear Shock
Some rear shocks have a system to block suspension (lockout), which
is activated by a button or a lever. Depending on the manufacturer the
operation differs slightly. Make sure to release the blocking on uneven
ground, as the frame or the rear shock may suffer damage.
Caution:
A too strong damping of the
rear frame can result in a
sluggish rebound movement
with a rear shock that will
not recover when exposed
to a quick series of impacts.
Risk of falling!
Danger:Do not turn any screws in the vague hope of
adjusting them somehow. You could release
the fastening mechanism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers
normally mark adjustment devices with a scale or with “+” signs (for
stronger damping/harder suspension) and with “-“ signs.
65
Full Suspension
11.4. Maintenance
The maintenance of the rear shock is in general limited to the careful
cleaning of the bearings and the suspension strut. Do not use a steam
jet or aggressive cleaning agents!
Check the air pressure of the rear shock at regular intervals. Take your
bicycle for a test ride on different kinds of surface. If the rear shock bot-
toms out several times, the spring rate, i.e. the air pressure, has to be
changed:
Check the bearing of the rear swing arm for lateral play or the bearing of
the suspension strut for vertical play at regular intervals.
• To do this check take the bicycle by the saddle, lift it up and try to
move the rear wheel to both sides. If necessary, ask a helper to keep
hold of the front part of the frame.
• To check the suspension strut for play place the rear wheel gently
down and lift it up again. Listen for any rattling noises.
• If there is any ask, ask your STEVENS dealer to repair it immediately.
• After a fall, check from the rear whether the suspension strut is still
in alignment. The fastening points should be above one another. If
necessary, ask your STEVENS dealer for advice.
In case there are any rattling noises, apply some spray oil in the area of
the bearings and the suspension strut mounting. Check the suspension
strut mountings at regular intervals (max. torque value 13 Nm).
Note:
Ask your STEVENS dealer
to do the scheduled main-
tenance work at least once
a year. They will check all
essential components.
66
12. Things Worth Knowing about
Bicycles and Cycling
12.1. Helmets
Cycling helmets are a must when riding a bicycle. Frequent counter-ar-
guments, such as poor ventilation, high weight and awful designs can
no longer be maintained with the latest helmets. Your STEVENS dealer
has a wide range of stylish helmets in various sizes. Take your time when
buying a helmet and wear the one you have chosen for while. A good
helmet should fit accurately and should not hurt. Make sure that the
helmet complies with the testing standards. But remember that even
the safest helmet is useless unless it fits properly and is correctly ad-
justed and fastened.
12.2. Transporting Luggage
There are various ways of carrying luggage on a bicycle. Your choice will
primarily depend on the weight and volume of the luggage and on the
bicycle you want to use. Mountain bikers or road racers prefer taking
their luggage in a backpack. This influences the additional load of the
riding characteristics less. There are however several ways of transport-
ing luggage directly on the bicycle.
Some STEVENS bicycles are fitted with a racktime system carrier. This
carrier is designed for a maximum additional load of 25 kg.
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Bicycles with racktime carriers provide a fast and secure fastening for
bags, baskets and further accessories by means of the Snapit-system.
We recommend nevertheless that you carry luggage in stable pannier
bags with a very low centre of gravity. For more information on the rack-
time system carrier, see the operating instructions of the manufacturer
on the STEVENS CD-ROM as well as at www.racktime.com
When buying pannier bags, make sure they are watertight so that your
belongings are protected and you will not have any unpleasant surprises
after the first rain shower.
Another possibility of transporting luggage are handlebar bags. They
often have snap buckles for quick mounting and removal. Handlebar
bags are particularly suitable to carry valuable objects and photograph-
ic equipment with you.
Lowrider bags fitted at the front of the bicycle are mounted to the fork
by means of special holders. They are an additional option for a long
trip. Heavy luggage should be transported in these bags, where the ef-
fects on the riding behaviour are less important.
Caution:
Do not overload your bicycle
and observe the maximum
load capacity of your rack-
time carrier.
Danger:
Luggage generally changes
the riding characteristics of
your bicycle and increases
your stopping distance!
Therefore, practise riding a
loaded bicycle in a place free
of trac.
67
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
12.3. Accessories
There are lots of accessories on the market which are intended to pro-
vide more fun for cycling. Cycle computers are on top of the list. They
measure riding and average speed, daily and annual mileage and riding
time. High-end models indicate the highest speed, differences in alti-
tude, pedalling cadence and many other things.
The most important accessories for a successful cycle tour are a tyre
pump and a small tool kit. The tool kit should include two tyre levers,
the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your
mobile phone, if necessary, and a little cash. In this way you will be well
prepared in the event of a puncture or some other mishap.
Before buying any additional bells, horns or lighting accessories, inform
yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accord-
ingly approved for use on public roads.
Additional battery/accumulator-operated lights have to be marked with
the wavy line and the letter “K” (see chapter “Legal Requirements for
Riding on Public Roads”). A rear view mirror provides better view to the
rear. Make sure the fastening is non-vibrating, when buying a rear view
mirror. Keep in mind to take a lock with you, as bicycles are stolen often.
Your STEVENS dealer will be pleased to inform you about the different
security levels of locks.
12.4. Bicycle Transport by Car
Nearly every car accessory dealer and car company offer carrier systems
that allow the transport of a bicycle without disassembly. The usual de-
sign involves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are
fixed with clamps gripping the down tubes.
These systems are not suitable for light-weight aluminium frames or
carbon frames.
Danger:
Do not buy a carrier on
which the bicycle has to
be mounted upside down,
i.e. with the handlebars
and saddle xed face down
to the carrier. This way of
fastening the bicycle expos-
es handlebars, stem, saddle
and seat post to extreme
stress during transport. Risk
of breakage!
Caution:
If you have a bicycle frame
made of ovalized tubes or
aero tubes (non-circular),
do not clamp your bicycle
with the usual clamps to the
carrier system.
Caution:
Bear in mind that your car
has a greater overall height
with the bicycle on it.
Measure the overall height
and place a sign stating the
height somewhere in the
cockpit so that it can be
easily seen.
Note:Damage to carbon frames caused by clamping
claws is excluded from warranty/guarantee.
Danger:Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards, disc
or roller brakes, carrier systems etc., can impair
the functioning of your bicycle. This can result in a fall. Always ask your
STEVENS dealer for advice before mounting any kind of accessories to
your bicycle.
68
The big advantage of rear carriers over roof carriers is that you do not
have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them.
• Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant
safety standards of your country.
• Read the operating instructions and observe the maximum load ca-
pacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.
• Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are not
hidden from view. For some carriers a second exterior rear view mir-
ror may be necessary.
12.5. Bicycle Transport in a Bicycle Case or in a
Sturdy Bicycle Carton
To bring your bicycle safe to the destination by plane, you either need a
special bicycle case or a bicycle carton which you can obtain from your
STEVENS dealer. Please note that wider cardboard cartons are usually
more suitable than narrow and high ones. The STEVENS bag is another
option for a safe and comfortable bicycle transport.
What you need in any case are spacers which have to be inserted in the
drop-outs in place of the wheels. You can get them from your bicycle
dealer.
The following tips apply to bicycle cases as well as to cardboard cartons.
Unscrew the pedals. Note that the left pedal has a left-handed thread
that has to be released clockwise. Pedals come off suddenly; therefore,
use an offset wrench and position the tool in a way that the hand moves
away from the pointed teeth when you start to unscrew the pedal.
Shift to the large chainring and the smallest sprocket. Open the
quick-releases and remove the front wheel. Insert the spacers into the
drop-outs of the fork. Slide the special transport lock between the brake
pads in the brake calliper. Pull the brake levers and secure them with a
rubber band. This prevents the entry of air into the system.
Remove the rear wheel and make sure to slide a spacer between the
axle mounts (drop-outs) of the rear frame. After having mounted the
spacers the chain should be tensioned. Fix this holder with cable ties or
copper wire to the chainstays. Slide the special transport lock between
the brake pads in the brake calliper. Pull the brake levers and secure
them with a rubber band. This prevents the entry of air into the system.
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Danger:
Remove the staples from the
opened aps of the card-
board carton. Otherwise you
may hurt yourself or damage
the bicycle. Strip o old
address labels, as well.
Fill the bottom with pieces
of carton to prevent bulges
or dents in case moisture
will aect the cardboard.
Caution:
In case you pack your bicycle
without mounting spacers
in place of the removed
wheels, the frame is at risk
of being damaged.
Danger:
In case you do not mount
the transport locks in place
of the brakes, the brake is at
risk of failing after transport.
69
Turn the crank in parallel to the chainstay and fix the pedal eye with
wire to the chainstay. Fix the chain where it runs on the chainring and
where it leaves it. This prevents the chain from coming off and causing
damage. The sharp-edged chainring is padded.
Fabricate a sturdy holder for the bottom bracket case from cardboard
carton or hard foam to protect the chainring or ask your bicycle dealer
for help. You can also use two supports for the fork and the drop-outs.
Release the clamping bolts of the handlebars and the steerer tube on
the stem by two to three turns.
Turn the now mobile stem by 90° relative to the fork so that the han-
dlebars are in parallel to the direction of travel. Turn the handlebars,
if necessary, downwards until its width has reduced to the minimum.
Retighten the bolts slightly.
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Take hold of the rear derailleur with one hand so that it doesn’t come off
uncontrolled due to the spring tension. Release the bolt and dismount
it. Protect the chainstay with air-cushioned foil or foam tubes, e.g. from
warm water tubes. Fix the rear derailleur about in the centre to the pro-
tected stay.
70
Protect the entire frame with air-cushioned foil or foam tubes. Lift the
frame carefully into the cardboard carton and place the bottom bracket
on the support.
If the bicycle doesn’t fit into the cardboard carton, you have to dismount
the seat post, if necessary. Mark it with a pen. This will help you to find
the proper height and alignment right away on the spot. Prepare a card-
board padding for the seat tube. It should fix the position of the frame
and fill the space to the cover.
Slide a piece of sturdy cardboard over the long side into the bicycle
carton to create a second compartment for the wheels. Remove the
quick-releases from the hubs and pack the wheel with air-cushion foil.
A rag over the sprockets keeps the packaging clean and can be used for
bicycle care at a later date. Slide the wheels into the carton. The sprock-
ets should show to the inside and be positioned in the area of the frame
triangle, where they cannot cause any damage.
Pack the quick-releases, the pedals, the necessary tool, rags, chain oil
and penetrating lubricant and a pocket knife and adhesive straps for
re-closing into a box. Close the box and insert it into the bicycle carton
in a way that it provides stiffness.
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Use additional rags or air-cushion foil to protect the bicycle, if necessary.
Finish by marking “This side up” on the carton. Further options are
markings, such as “Caution bicycle inside!”.
71
12.6. Taking Children with You
The only possible and legal way of transporting children by bicycle is in
special child seats or trailers. To mount a child seat to your STEVENS bi-
cycle you need the racktime child seat adapter. It is suitable for all rack-
time system carriers with an overall top width of 120 mm and permitted
for a maximum additional load of 12 kg. A child seat can be fastened to
several bicycles, if fitted with a racktime child seat adapter.
Purchase DIN EN tested child seats only. Make sure the seat belts are
fastened and the feet are fixed in special holders.
Cover the springs of your saddle, if available, to make sure that your
child will not have the fingers pinched. Make sure the child you are tak-
ing with you wears a helmet and fasten the seat belt!
Child seats have a strong influence on the bicycle’s riding character-
istics. The weight of both the seat and the child will make the bicycle
somewhat instable, i.e. it tends to wobble. Practise sitting in your bicy-
cle and cycling! A critical moment is when you have just placed the child
in the seat because this is when the danger of the bicycle toppling over is
greatest. A good way to obviate this danger is to use a twin leg kickstand
to keep the bicycle stable in standing.
Observe the permitted maximum load of the racktime carrier system.
Do not exceed the permitted maximum load of the bicycle indicated by
the manufacturer. (Also observe the bike card and the handover report
as well as the operating instructions of the system carrier manufacturer
on the STEVENS CD-ROM).
Another option to take children with you are special child trailers that
are towed behind a bicycle. They usually provide place for up to two
children.
Children can play in the trailer without the danger of toys falling out.
Some models provide the option of mounting a sunshade or rain shield.
Trailers mainly affect the braking behaviour of your bicycle, but not the
other riding characteristics. One drawback is the widths of the child
trailer which occupies far more width than the bicycle would alone. In
addition, the trailers are flat; they are therefore easily overlooked.
Therefore protect the trailer by mounting a long pole with coloured pen-
nant to increase visibility and practise riding with the trailer without
passengers. A rear view mirror helps you to observe the trailer and the
passengers during the ride.
The trailer should be fitted additionally with all the reflectors that are
prescribed for riding on public roads, just like your bicycle. If you use it in
the dark, illuminate the rear end of the trailer with a battery/accumula-
tor-powered lamp. Inform yourself about the legal regulations relating
to the lighting of trailers.
Make sure the child you are taking with you wears a helmet. A trailer is
an insufficient protection in the event of an accident!
Things Worth Knowing about Bicycles and Cycling
Caution:
Child seats can only be
mounted to models of suita-
ble design. When mounting
a child seat make sure not
to impair the functioning of
brake and shifting cables.
Mounting child seats to the
seat post is not permitted.
Danger:
Always secure the child with
the seat belt, as uncon-
trolled movements inside
the trailer can make it topple
over.
Note:
Make sure the child seat you
have mounted has holders
for the feet of the child. The
child should not be older
than 7 years, the cyclist must
be 16 years old at least.
Note:Please note the permitted trailer load of your
bicycle. Trailers are not permitted for all bicycles
(also see chapter “Before Your First Ride”).
72
13. Kids’ Bicycles
Children are among the most vulnerable road user groups, not only be-
cause of their lack of experience and practice, but also for the simple
reason that they are smaller and may therefore have difficulties over-
seeing things and be easily overlooked by other road users.
If you want your child to use his/her bicycle on the road, you should
be willing to invest time in road safety instruction and help him/her
improve his/her riding skills. Children are not as observant as adults,
and you should therefore get into the routine of checking the bicycle
and performing adjustments and maintenance as necessary. In case of
inquiries ask your STEVENS dealer for advice. Bear in mind that it is your
responsibility to supervise your child on his/her first rides and do not
overchallenge your child!
Inform yourself about the traffic rules in your country. They vary from
country to country. For example, in Germany, children must use the
pavement until they are eight years old and they are permitted to do
so until the age of ten.
It is essential that your child has good control of his/her bicycle before
riding on his/her own. As a first step in this direction we recommend
that you give your child a scooter or a pedalless bicycle so that he/she
can train his/her sense of balance.
This being accomplished you will need to make your child familiar with
the functioning of the brakes before you let him/her sit on the bicycle.
Find a place away from the road, ideally a backyard or park, where you
can practise braking and shifting gears with your child under your su-
pervision.
Once your child has progressed to a point where he/she can ride in traf-
fic, teach him/her how to cross kerbs and railway tracks, i.e. to cross
these obstacles, if possible, at right angle. Your child should also learn to
look ahead and back for any danger before taking this kind of obstacle.
Set a good example when it comes to riding on cycle lanes. It is also
advisable to let your child take part in road safety lessons offered at
schools or by local clubs and associations.
Adjusting the bicycle to the bodily proportions of a child is even more
important than in the case of an adult. When determining the saddle
height you should find a compromise that allows the child to reach the
ground with both feet when sitting in the saddle while at the same time
giving them enough space for pedalling.
Kids’ Bicycles
Danger:
Make sure the child always
wears a properly tting
cycling helmet and well
visible, i.e. bright, clothing.
It is also advisable to wear
reector stripes to increase
visibility.
Danger:
Children can be vain. There-
fore, buy a tested cycling
helmet that the child feels
happy with. Take your child
with you to make sure you
buy one which is comfort-
able and ts correctly. This
will increase the chances
that the helmet is actually
worn, which one day might
be a life-saver.
73
The saddle should be set to a height from which your child can just reach
the pedal in its lowest position with his/her heel.
In a control, the knee should be slightly bent, when the ball of the big
toe is exactly above the pedal centre.
Check the tight fit once again by trying to tilt the saddle.
Check as a next step whether the brake lever is within easy reach for the
child. If it is not, adjust the brake lever as described in chapter “Adjust-
ing the Bicycle to the Rider”.
Kids’ Bicycles
Check during the control that the hips of the child remain horizontal.
Check finally whether the child still reaches the ground. If not, you
should lower the saddle a little. Due to the limited field of view, the
seating position of the child should be as upright as possible.
Handlebars that are too far away from the saddle can also lead to the
fact that the child is less relaxed during cycling. The saddle can there-
fore be shifted. For more information on how to adjust the seat post and
the saddle, see chapter ”Adjusting the Bicycle to the Rider”.
It is important to tell your child when he/her practises braking that in
wet conditions the brake performance is less effective and the tyre grip
reduced and that he/she should therefore ride more slowly.
Get into the habit of doing the checks as described in chapter “Before
Every Ride“ together with your child. In this way, your child will learn
to handle the material properly and you will be able to detect any de-
fects that have developed during use. Encourage your child to tell you, if
anything should not be working properly on his/her bicycle. Repair the
defect immediately or take the bicycle to your bicycle dealer for repair,
if you are in doubt.
Caution:
With children who are still
growing it is advisable to
check the saddle height
every three months.
74
Warranty and Guarantee
14. Warranty and Guarantee for STEVENS
Bicycles
14.1. Warranty
Your STEVENS bicycle was manufactured with care. Normally it is deliv-
ered to you by your STEVENS dealer fully mounted. As direct purchaser
you have full warranty rights within the first two years after purchase.
Please contact your STEVENS dealer in the event of defects. To ensure a
smooth handling of your claim, it is necessary to present your receipt,
your bike card, the handover report and the stamped service reports.
Therefore, please keep these documents in a safe place.
To ensure a long service life and good durability of your STEVENS bicy-
cle, use it only for its intended purpose (see chapter “Before Your First
Ride“). Please also observe the permissible load specifications as spec-
ified there and in the bike card. Be sure to strictly follow the mounting
instructions of the manufacturers (above all the tightening torques of
the bolts) as well as the prescribed maintenance schedule. Please ob-
serve the checks and routines that are listed in the present user manual
and the manuals supplied or the replacement of safety-relevant compo-
nents, such as handlebars, brakes etc, if necessary.
14.2. A Note on Wear
Some components of your STEVENS bicycle are subject to wear due to
their function. The rate of wear will depend on care and maintenance
and the way you use your pedelec (mileage, riding in the rain, dirt, salt
etc.). Bicycles that are often left standing in the open may also be sub-
ject to increased wear through weathering.
These wearing parts require regular care and maintenance. Neverthe-
less, sooner or later they will reach the end of their service life, depend-
ing on conditions and intensity of use. These components must be re-
placed once they have reached their limit of wear:
a. Drive chain
b. Brake pads
c. Brake fluid (DOT)
d. Brake discs/rotors
e. Brake cables and housings
f. Seals of suspension elements
g. Grip coverings or bar tape
h. Bowden cables and housings
i. Chainrings
j. Tyre
k. Sprockets
l. Saddle covering
m. Pulley wheels
n. Lubricants
Note:
The coating/paint of frames
and forks is subject to
particular consideration, i.e.
the coating is, by nature,
exposed to stress during use
and can wear down or be
aected by minor damage.
This type of wear or damage
as a result of mechanical
stress (e.g. scratches due to
rough contact with other
objects) is not covered by
the terms of warranty.
Note:
The law referring to full
warranty rights is only valid
in the countries where the
law has been ratied accord-
ing to the renewed European
regulations. Please inform
yourself about the situation
in your country.
75
Warranty and Guarantee
o. The pads of rim brakes are subject to wear due to their function. If you
use your bicycle for competitive cycling or in hilly terrain, the brake
pads may have to be replaced quite frequently. Check your brake pads
regularly and have them replaced by your STEVENS dealer, if neces-
sary.
p. Rims of rim brakes
Braking causes wear not only to the brake pads, but also to the rims.
Therefore, check your rims regularly, e.g. when inflating the tyres.
Rims with wear indicators have rings or a gap that come into view
when the rim reaches its limit of wear. There are some models where
the wear indicators disappear, when the rim thickness has reached a
critical point. Observe the specifications marked on the rim. Ask your
STEVENS dealer to examine the remaining thickness of the rims at the
latest when you are through your second set of brake pads. Rim walls
that become deformed or show hair cracks when the tyre pressure is
increased have reached the end of their service life. The rim must be
repaired.
q. Lighting set and reflectors
The lighting is essential for your safety on the road, especially at
night. Check the function and condition of the reflectors before every
ride.
14.3. Warranty Rules of STEVENS
Vertriebs GmbH
Note:
The rights of the end-user/
customer from the warranty
remain unaected by the
present guarantee.
Note:
* The coating/paint of
frames and forks is subject
to particular consideration,
i.e. the coating is, by nature,
exposed to stress during use
and can wear down or be
aected by minor damage.
This type of wear or damage
as a result of mechanical
stress (e.g. scratches due to
rough contact with other
objects) is not covered by
the terms of warranty.
STEVENS Vertriebs GmbH guarantees the quality and durability of the
STEVENS bicycles. A STEVENS bicycle is a bicycle suitable for its intended
purpose which we have assembled using components and branded ac-
cessories of well renowned manufacturers. Should defects occur to the
bicycle or one of its parts during the warranty period, we will, at our
choice, repair or replace it, with you (as the first buyer) having to toler-
ate minor deviations in model, dimensions and colour. Suspension forks,
Shimano components and other branded accessories are not handled
through STEVENS but through the part manufacturers’ national distrib-
utors. For any complaints about goods of other brands, even if they have
been sold and supplied by us, please first contact the distributor, or the
manufacturer directly, and use their forms.
On the manufacturers’ websites, you can usually also find manuals and
technical instructions as well as contacts for further questions. In all
cases, the specialist STEVENS dealer is the person to contact and accepts
end-users’ enquiries.
From the date of the sale to the first buyer, the warranty periods will be
• Aluminium frames and forks* 5 years
• Carbon frames and forks* 5 years
• Full suspension frames* 5 years
• Other components 2 years
76
Warranty and Guarantee
Please note the following rules for an easy remedy in the event of pos-
sible defects: The STEVENS warranty, which is not transferable, applies
only to the first buyer and only if the customer’s sales receipt and a copy
of the completed bike card and delivery receipt are presented and if the
compliance with, and observance of, our above-mentioned notes con-
tained in the manual (No. 1-13) / the operating instructions as well as
the regular inspections carried out by dealers are proved (chapter “Ser-
vice and Maintenance Schedule”).
The warranty does not cover any labour or transportation costs as well
as consequential costs caused by defects. Proper use is a prerequisite for
services under this warranty.
Damage caused by wear and tear, neglect (lack of care and mainte-
nance), falls, overloading, improper assembly (failure to observe the
manufacturers’ assembly instructions) or care as well as changes to the
STEVENS bicycle (addition or alteration of additional components) shall
be excluded. In the case of jumps or any other overloading, as well as
any violation of our recommendations or those of our authorized deal-
ers, no claims under this warranty exist.
Obvious defects of the products shall be reported within 8 days from
delivery; any concealed damage shall be reported immediately after it
becomes known, but within the warranty period.
In the case of any unjustified returns, we will charge a lump sum for
expenses. Our warranty, which is restricted to the territory of your coun-
try, does not take into account any further claims against us, particularly
any claims for price reduction or damages. The performance of services
under this warranty does not mean any extension or recommencement
of the warranty period.
14.3.1. Special Notes, Notes on Safety
In view of a long lifetime, a long durability of the components and any
claims being made under this warranty, the manufacturers’ assembly
instructions (including, without limitation, torques for screws) as well
as the prescribed maintenance intervals must be observed precisely.
Some examples: Rear shock fixing screws which are too tight impose a
load on the frame and may cause consequential damage.
If you use your STEVENS bicycle for riding on public roads, it has to be
equipped according to the regulations of your country. Pay particular
attention to your bicycle being equipped with the prescribed lighting
set and reflectors. Ask a bicycle specialist shop of your trust to inform
you about the regulations in force in your country. The requirements of
the CEN/DIN standards specific to the type of bicycle and the legislation
in your country shall be taken into account by the dealer/fitter. Not all
STEVENS bicycles are supplied together with all attachment parts.
Danger:
Ask your STEVENS dealer
to check your STEVENS
bicycle after a fall. If you are
in doubt, replace at least
handlebars and stem to be
on the safe side.
Note:
If you use your STEVENS
bicycle for riding on public
roads, it has to be equipped
according to the regulations
of your country. Pay particu-
lar attention to your bicycle
being equipped with the
prescribed lighting set and
reectors. Not all STEVENS
bicycles are supplied to-
gether with all necessary
attachment parts.
77
General Notes on Care and Servicing
15. General Notes on Care and Servicing
The bicycle you have purchased is a product of high quality and tech-
nology. Your STEVENS dealer will have assembled and adjusted your
bicycle ready for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, as with
other types of vehicles, you should still see to it regularly and have your
STEVENS dealer do the scheduled maintenance work. This is the only
way to ensure that all components function safely and reliably for many
miles. This will ensure fun and safety for many years.
15.1. Cleaning and Caring for the Bicycle
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter or in sea air can
harm your bicycle. You should therefore make a habit of regularly clean-
ing all the components of your bicycle.
The easiest way to remove dirt and minerals is by using a steam cleaner.
This cleaning method is quick, but it entails serious drawbacks. As the
water is ejected at high pressure in a narrowly focussed jet, it may pass
through seals and penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubri-
cants and consequently to greater friction. This destroys and impairs the
functioning of the bearing races in the long term. Steam jet treatment
also tends to abrade stickers.
A much more gentle way of cleaning your bicycle is with a soft water jet
and/or with a bucket of water and a sponge or large brush. Cleaning your
bicycle by hand has another positive side-effect in that it enables you
to discover defects in the paint or worn or defective components at an
early stage. After drying your bicycle you should polish its coating and
metal surfaces with hard wax.
Apply the hard wax also to spokes, hubs, etc. Use a hand-held atomizer
for parts with small surfaces. Inspect the chain after you have finished
cleaning and grease it, if necessary (see chapter “Chain Maintenance”).
15.2. Safekeeping and Storing the Bicycle
If you regularly look after your bicycle during the season, you will not
need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time,
apart from securing it against theft. It is advisable to store your bicycle
in a dry and airy place. There are some things to bear in mind when
putting your bicycle away for the winter:
• Inflated inner tubes tend to gradually lose air when the bike is not
used for a long time. If your bicycle is left standing on flat tyres for an
extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres.
It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bicycle or to
check the tyre pressure regularly.
• Clean your bicycle and protect it against corrosion as described
above.
• Remove the seat post and allow for any moisture that may have en-
tered to dry away. Spray a little finely atomized oil into the seat tube.
Caution: Do not grease carbon parts!
• Store your bicycle in a dry place.
• Shift the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket.
This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.
Danger:
While cleaning, look for
cracks, scratches, dents, as
well as bent or discoloured
material. If you are in doubt,
contact your STEVENS dealer.
Have defective components
replaced immediately and
touch up paint defects.
Danger:
Keep brake pads and rim
sides free of grease or oil!
Caution:Do not clean your bicycle with a strong water or
steam jet from a short distance.
78
Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
16. Service and Maintenance Schedule
It is advisable to have your STEVENS bicycle serviced regularly after the bedding-in period. The schedule given in the table below is a rough guide for
cyclists who ride their bicycle between 1,000 and 2,000 km (600 to 1,200 miles) or 50 to 100 hours of use a year.
If you consistently ride more or if you ride a great deal on poor road surfaces, the maintenance periods will shorten accordingly.
ComponentWhat to doBefore Every
Ride
MonthlyAnnu-
ally
Others
LightingCheck functionx
TyresCheck pressurex
Check tread and side wallsx
Brakes (rim brakes)Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, position of
pads relative to rim; test brakes in stationary
x
Brakes (drum/roller)Lever travel, test brakes in stationaryx
Brakes, brake pads (rim
brakes)
Cleanx
Brake cables, pads
hoses
Visual inspectionx
Brakes (disc brakes)Check lever travel, wear of brake pads, check seals,
test brakes in stationary
x
Replace liquid (Dot-liquids)•
Suspension forkCheck and retighten bolts, if necessary•
All-inclusive service (change oil)•
Rims (of rim brakes)Check thickness, replace if necessary• after 2nd set of brake
pads at the latest
Fork (rigid)Check and replace, if necessary• at least every 2
years
Bottom bracketCheck for bearing playx
Dismount and regrease (cups)•
ChainCheck and grease, if necessaryx
Check wear, replace, if necessary
Derailleur Gears
• after 1,000 km (600
miles) or 50 hours
of use
Note:
For your own safety, bring
your STEVENS bicycle to
your STEVENS dealer for its
rst service after 100 to 300
kilometres (60 to 180 miles),
5 to 15 hours of initial use
or three to six weeks, at the
very latest, however, after
three months.
79
Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
ComponentWhat to doBefore Every
Ride
MonthlyAnnu-
ally
Others
CrankCheck and retighten, if necessaryx
Painted/anodised/carbon
surfaces
Polishx at least every 6
months
Wheels/spokesCheck for trueness and tensionx
True or retighten• if necessary
Handlebars and stem (made
of aluminium and carbon)
Check and replace, if necessary• every 2 years at the
latest
HeadsetCheck for bearing playx
Regrease•
Metal surfacesPolish (except:
rim sides of rim brakes, rotors)
x at least every 6
months
HubsCheck for bearing playx
Regrease•
Pedals (all)Check for bearing playx
Pedals (clipless)Clean and grease locking mechanismx
Seat post/stemCheck boltsx
Disassemble and regrease
Carbon: new assembly paste (no grease!)
•
Front/rear derailleurClean and greasex
Quick-releases/thru axlesCheck seatx
Bolts and nuts (multi-speed
hubs, mudguards etc.)
Check and retighten, if necessaryx
ValvesCheck seatx
Cables gears/brakesDismount and regrease•
If you have a certain degree of mechanical skills, experience and suitable tools, such as a torque wrench, you should be able to do the checks marked
x by yourself. If you will come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions, contact
your STEVENS dealer.
Jobs marked • are best left to your STEVENS dealer.
Caution:
When working on your bicy-
cle restrict yourself to jobs
for which you are equipped
and have the necessary
knowledge.
80
Service and Maintenance Schedule, Torque Values
17. Recommended Torque Settings
All bolted connections of the bicycle components have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe and reliable operation of the
STEVENS bicycle. This is best done with a torque wrench that disengages at the desired torque value or a click-type torque wrench.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) and check in between the proper fit of
the component.
Where no maximum torque setting is given start with 2 Nm. Observe the indicated values and observe the values on the components and/or in the
operating instructions of the component manufacturers on the enclosed STEVENS CD-ROM.
These values are reference values of the above-mentioned component manufacturers. Observe the values in the instructions of the component
manufacturers on the STEVENS CD-ROM. These values do not apply to the components of other manufacturers.
Note:
Some components have
the maximum permissible
torque values printed on
them. Use a torque wrench
and never exceed the max-
imum torque value! If you
are in doubt or if you have
any questions, contact your
STEVENS dealer.
Note:Due to the unmanageable number of components on the market, STEVENS is not in a position to foresee every product that will
be replaced or newly assembled by third parties. Therefore STEVENS denies any liability for such kind of additions or modifications
with regard to compatibility, torque values etc. Whoever assembles or modifies the bicycle shall ensure that the bicycle was assembled according to the
state-of-the-art in science and technology.
82
17.1. Recommended Torque Settings for Disc Brakes and Hydraulic Rim Brakes
Hint to the STEVENS dealer: Please copy this bike card and keep one copy in your customer
file. Send another copy to Stevens Vertriebs GmbH directly after the sale of the STEVENS
bicycle
Stamp and signature of the STEVENS dealer
87
Handover Report
The above-described STEVENS bicycle was delivered to the customer ready for use, i.e. after its final assembly, inspection and functional check as described below (additionally
required routines in parentheses):
Other routines performed: ..............................................................................................
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