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Singer SK890 Chunky Electronic Manual

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them
to
loosen and be caught inside. It
is
safer
to
simply redraw a pre-printed design
as
you
want
it.
For
faster drawing you can
use
the black
or
silver opaque paint markers (manufactured
by
Faber Castel
or
Pilot)
that
are
available at most
office/stationary stores. These markers can be
messy
to
work
with
and when the paint
is
dry,
it
tends
to
scratch easily;
but
they
are
ideal
for
-
large, bold designs
that
will be read once and
stored on a
PEl
memory
card. Before using
them,
shake
these markers well
so
that
the
mixing ball rattles around inside and mixes the
paint
with
the oil
base.
As
you
press
the
tip
against the mylar,
it
will retract and allow the
paint
to
flow. Do
not
press
down
continuously,
only
as
you need more paint in the tip, or
it
will
get
very
messy.
Dried mistakes can be corrected
with
a razor blade, very gently scraping away
the paint. However, be careful
not
to
damage
the surface
of
the mylar because the machine
may mis-read a pattern where the mylar
is
scratched. If you
use
these markers
for
design
cards
that
you plan on using over and over,
store them very carefully
so
they
do
not
get
scratched.
If you
use
these markers
for
small, detailed
motifs,
do
not
attempt
to
completely fill in each
square.
As
the color fills the square, the oil tends
to
seep
into adjacent squares and can cause the
surface
of
the mylar
to
become reflective where
it
shouldn't. Instead, just touch the
tip
of
the
marker
to
the center
of
each square
to
make a
dot, which
is
enough
for
the scanners
to
read.
Whatever design you
draw
on
an
SK890 mylar
should knit accurately
to
size
because the grid
on these mylars
is
proportionally drawn
(approximately 5 stitches/7 rows per inch). It
is
important
that
you design and plan knits on
proportioned graph paper because square grid
graph paper will produce designs
that
distort
when they
are
knitted. Your Studio dealer
has
pads
of
proportioned graph paper (200 stitches/
200 rows)
or
you can make
your
own
smaller
sheets by photocopying a blank mylar: When
you've drawn
what
you want, you can simply
place a clean mylar on
top
of
the graph paper
and trace the design
onto
the mylar. This
is
much faster and easier than counting squares
to
copy designs. Depending on the quality
of
the
photocopy
machine, the
grid
may shrink slightly.
You
can correct this
by
adjusting the position
of
the mylar
as
you trace.
If you
don't
like filling in all the little squares, you
can also
draw
"free
hand"
(Figure 8). The ma-
chine will determine the edges
of
a design ac-
cording
to
the portion
of
each square
that
is
filled in,
but
don't
rely on
it
to
determine fine
detail. This
method
is
best suited
to
large, bold
designs.
Each
square equals one stitch/one row,
so
make sure
that
all lines
are
at
least one square
wide in order
to
be read. You'll often find
that
enlarging the design
with
the #3 and #4 but-
tons
as
you knit will make
it
clearer.
When designing chunky fair
isle
patterns, be
careful
not
to
create extra long floats between
motifs.
You
may need
to
add spots
of
color
or
small motifs between larger ones
to
tie
down
the second color. Occasional floats can
be
secured by lifting
them
onto
needles or wrap-
ping
with
a strand
of
the main
color-as
you
would
the edges
of
a single motif. If possible,
use
a lighter
weight
yarn
to
wrap
with.
11
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