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Scott Road Bikes - 2017 Manual

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ENGLISHENGLISH
81 |
ROAD BIKE | OWNER’S MANUAL 2017OWNER’S MANUAL 2017 | ROAD BIKE
| 80
Tyre mounting
To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should
take your time and proceed stepwise. Some practice and experience with the
tyre adhesive used and the relevant model of tubular tyre can speed up the
work.
In general, mounting tubular tyres is a job for your SCOTT dealer. Read the
mounting instructions of the tyre manufacturer before you start mounting.
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tapes (a).
One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly. However, this
may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. If you have
a puncture while out riding, the tape often remains on the tyre that has been
removed and the reserve tyre no longer seats properly on the rim.
For that reason we recommend a solid bed made up of several layers of liquid
rim cement (tyre adhesive). Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also
remains on the rim when dismounting the tyre.
However, back home again you should remove the spare tyre nevertheless. The
existing bed and the tyre (b) are then treated with rim cement once again and
the tyre is mounted again to ensure that it seats properly.
If you have wheels with very high rims, undo the valve insert with the special
mounting tool before the first mounting and take it out of the valve, and install a
valve extension in its place (c). Screw the valve insert back into the lengthened
valve. Now you can inflate and deflate the mounted tyre via the extended valve
in the usual way.
Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and then stick the
valve through the hole in the rim. Starting from the valve and working in both di-
rections press the tyre into the rim all the way round. If you are unable to mount
it completely on the rim or if this would require excessive force, leave off trying,
since it might not work with force alone.
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre runs
true. The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened which
leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during the ride.
Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it with
a big drill (d), a triangular scraper or a round file.
If you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge
with a round file. Insert the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice
versa, otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area
with instant glue subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve
fitting to the rim.
If time permits, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few days
to make the final mounting easier.
Subsequently, clean the base of the rim from grease or oil by using a rag soaked
with acetone, spirit or benzine (e).
Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to glue the tyre
onto the rim. Gluing the tyre (f) is easiest with the wheel clamped in a truing
stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.
With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive bed.
Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the entire
circumference of the rim.
b ca e fd
… 41 …


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