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Cerniera
americana:
Per
Ia
regolazione
della
macchina
vedi
a
pag.
34.
Ecco
come
si
prepara
e
si
applica
Ia
cerniera:
Stirare
i
bordi
dell’apertura.
Voltare
ii
bordo
sinistro
da
cucire
verSo
‘esterno
(fig.
P).
Porre
sopra
Ia
parte
sinistra
aperta
della
cerniera
come
indicato
in
fig.
0.
I
dentini
della
cerniera
sporgono
leggermente
dal
bordo
stirato.
La
cucitura
viene
eseguita
sul
bordo
stirato.
SpoStare
il
piedino
in
centro,
in
maniera
che
l’ago
penetri
nellapertura
centrale
del
piedino.
I
dentini
della
cerniera
scorrono
nella
scanalatura
di
guida
sinistra
del
piedino
(fig.
R).
Per
introdurre
i
dentini
all’inizio
della
cucitura
nella
scanalatura
alzarli
Iegger
mente.
Eseguire
Ia
cucitura
tino
al
termine
e
fissarla.
Chiudere
Ia
cerniera.
Spillare
Ia
seconda
parte
della
cerniera
all’inizio
della
cucitura
(fig.
S)
e
aprire
Ia
cerniera.
Voltare
ii
bordo
destro
con
Ia
fettuccia
della
cerniera
verso
l’esterno
prima
di
togliere
lo
spillo
e
spillare
Ia
cerniera
sulla
cucitura
come
indicato
da
fig.
T.
I
dentini
della
cerniera
scorrono
ora
nella
scanalatura
destra
del
piedino
(fig.
U).
Terminare
Ia
cucitura
della
cerniera.
Cucire
a
fettuccia
della
cerniera
a
distanza
di
piedino
sulla
cucitura.
I
dentini
della
cerniera
scorrono
all’esterno
della
guida.
(fig.
V).
Seam-like
zipper
closure
For
machine
setting
see
page
34.
How
the
zipper
is
prepared
and
inserted:
Press
the
edges
of
the
placket.
Fold
out
the
left
seam
allowance
(Fig.
P).
Place
the
left
side
of
the
open
zip
in
position
so
that
its
teeth
protrude
a
little
beyond
the
pressed
edge
(Fig.
Q).
The
seam
is
sewn
along
this
edge.
Move
the
zipper
foot
to
the
middle
so
that
the
needle
stit
ches
into
the
middle
opening.
The
zip
teeth
run
into
the
left
guiding
groove
in
the
foot
(Fig.
R).
At
the
beginning
of
the
seam
lift
up
the
teeth
a
little
to
feed
them
into
the
guiding
groove.
Sew
the
seam
to
the
end
and
secure
it.
Close
zip.
Pin
other
side
of
zip
to
material
at
beginning
of
seam
(Fig.
S).
Open
zip.
Remove
the
pin,
turn
out
the
right
seam
allowance
with
the
zip
tape,
and
pin
the
latter
to
the
fabric,
as
shown
in
Fig.
T.
The
zip
teeth
now
run
into
the
right
guiding
groove
in
the
foot
(Fig.
U).
Finish
sewing
the
zip.
Now
sew
down
the
zip
tape
letting
the
zip
teeth
run
along
the
guiding
edge
of
the
foot
(Fig.
V).
37
40


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