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Marin Bikes Manual

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• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a. Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist
grips, triggers, combination shift/brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your
dealer to explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike, and to
show you how they work.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift
to a “lower” or “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a
shift to a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that
what’s happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening
at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear
Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can
select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift)
in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear
at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the
rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way
to keep things straight is to remember that shifting the chain in towards
the centerline of the bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called a
downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is
for speed and is called an upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design
requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least some
tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before
lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So,
as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to
shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the
rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking
and increase front braking force. This is even more important on descents,
because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel
lockup and weight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced
if your bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under
braking, increasing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F). Practice
braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no trafc or other
hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It
will take longer to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion
is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can
lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces
their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is
to go more slowly.
D. Shifting gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below),
an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a
combination of the two.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will
have:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
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