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Weak
bottom
echo, digital
readings
erratic,
or no
fish
signals:
1. Make
certain transducer is
pointing
straight
down. Clean
the face of the
transducer.
Oil, dirt,
and fuel can cause
a film to form
on the
transducer,
reducing
its effectiveness. If the transducer
is mounted inside
the
hull,
be sure it is
shooting through only
one
layer
of
fiberglass
and
that it is
securely
bonded
to the hull. Do NOT
use IRTV silicone rubber
adhesive
or MarinetexlM.
2.
Electrical noise
from
the
boat's motor can
interfere with the
sonar. This
causes the sonar
to
automatically
increase
its Discrimination or
noise
rejection
feature. This
can cause the unit
to eliminate weaker
signals
such
as fish or
even structure from the
display.
3. The
water
may
be
deeper
than the sonar's
ability
to find the bottom.
If
the
sonar can't find the
bottom
signal
while it's
in the automatic
mode,
the
digital
will flash
continuously.
It
may change
the
range
to limits
far
greater
than
the water
you
are in. If this
happens, place
the unit in the
manual
mode,
then
changethe range
to a realistic
one, (for example,
0-
100
feet)
and
increasethe
sensitivity.
As
you
move
into
shallowerwater,
a bottom
signal
should
appear.
4. Check the
battery voltage.
If the
voltage drops,
the
unit's transmitter
power
also
drops, reducing
its
ability
to find the bottom
or
targets.
Bottom echo
disappears
at
high
speeds
or erratic
digital
reading
or
weak bottom
echo while boat is
moving:
1. The transducer
may
be in turbulent
water. It must be mounted
in a
smooth flow of water
in orderforthe
sonarto work at all boat
speeds.
Air
bubbles in the
water
disrupt
the sonar
signals,
interfering
with its
ability
to find the bottom
or other
targets.
The
technical
term for this is
Cavitation.
2. Electrical noise from
the boat's motor
can interfere with the
sonar. This
causes
the sonar
to
automatically
increase
its Discrimination
or noise
rejection
feature. This
can cause the unit to
eliminate weaker
signals
such
as fish or even structure
from the
display. Try
using
resistor
spark
plugs
or
routing
the
sonar unit's
power
and transducercables
awayfrom
other
electrical
wiring
on the boat.
No fish arches when
the Fish ID feature is off:
1. Make
certain transducer
is
pointing straight
down. This is the
most
common
problem
if a
partial
arch is
displayed.
Seethe Fish Arch section
in
your
owner's manual
for more information.
39
5.
Adjust
the transducer
and bracket so that the
front of the transducer
is
slightly
lower than the back.
See the section on
fish arches in this
manual for
proper
transducer
angles. Tighten
all
screws.
(CAUTION;
Don't
overtighten
the bolt that
holds the transducer
to the bracket.
Overtightening
the bolt
may
result
in a distorted bracket
which will allow
the transducer
to
"kick-up"
at
high
speed.) Snap
the
transducer bracket
together by pressing
the outer bracket
(the
one with the
transducer
attached) against
the one screwed to the
transom.
NOTE: Some
aluminum boats with strakes
or ribs on the outside
of the
hull create
large
amounts of turbulence
at
high speed.
These boats
typically
have
large
outboard motors
capable
of
propelling
the
boat at
speeds
over 35
mph.
The transducer should
be mounted
as far below
the hull as
possible
pn
these boats.
(See
below)
This will
place
the face
of the transducer
below the turbulent
water, allowing
the sonar
unit to
work
at
high
speeds.
6. Route the transducer
cable to the sonar unit.
Keep
the transducer
cable
away
from other
wiring
on the
boat,
if
possible.
Electrical noise
from
engine wiring
or
bilge pumps
can be
picked
up
on the transducer cable.
This can show
up
as
unwanted
interference on the sonar
display.
7.
Make a test run to determine
the results. If
there
is interference on the
display
when
running
the boat at
high speed, try
lowering
the
transducer's bracket as shown
at
right.
IMPORTANTl
Clamp
the
transducer cable to the
transom close
to the transducer.
This
will
prevent
the transducer
from
entering
the boat
if it is knocked
off at
high speed.
FLAT-BOTTOM HULL
DEEP-"vEE" HULL
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