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Kona 2016 Manual

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KONA OWNER’S MANUAL
KONA OWNER’S MANUAL
14
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial
effect on performance and comfort. To nd your best
saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.
WARNING:
After any saddle adjustment, be sure that
the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened
before riding. A loose saddle clamp or seat post clamp
can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you
to lose control and fall. A correctly tightened saddle
adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement in
any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the
saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and
fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you
may need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people,
come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your
dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly
adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING:
Some people
have claimed that
extended riding with
a saddle which is
incorrectly adjusted
or which does not
support your pelvic
area correctly can
cause short-term
or long-term injury
to nerves and blood
vessels, or even impotence. If your saddle causes you
pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to your
body and stop riding until you see your dealer about
saddle adjustment or a different saddle.
C) HANDLEBAR
HEIGHT AND ANGLE
Your bike is equipped
either with a “thread-
less” stem (g. 6), which
clamps on to the outside
of the steerer tube, or
with a “quill” stem (g.
7), which clamps inside
the steerer tube by way of
an expanding binder bolt.
If you aren’t absolutely
sure which type of stem your bike has, ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem, your dealer may be
able to change handlebar height by moving height adjust-
ment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or
vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different
length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this
yourself, as it requires special knowledge. If your bike has a
“quill” stem, you can ask your dealer to adjust the handle-
bar height a bit by adjusting stem height. A quill stem has
an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates
the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum extension.”
This mark must not be visible above the headset
.
WARNING: A quill stem's Minimum Insertion Mark
must not be visible above the top of the headset. If the
stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion Mark
the stem may break or damage the fork's steerer tube,
which could cause you to lose control and fall.
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem
or stem height can affect the tension of the front brake
cable, locking the front brake or creating excess cable
slack which can make the front brake inoperable.
If the front brake pads move in towards the wheel 13
If your leg is not completely
straight and just touching
the center of the pedal,
your saddle height needs
to be adjusted. If your hips
must rock for the heel to
reach the pedal, the saddle
is too high.
If your leg is bent at the
knee with your heel on the
pedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the
saddle for your optimal
riding position and to show
you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make
your own saddle height adjustment:
- loosen the seat post clamp
- raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
- make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
- re-tighten the seat post clamp to
the recommended
torque (see the manufacturer's
instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct
height, make sure that the seatpost
does not project from the frame
beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark [Fig. 4].
2. Front and back adjustment. The
saddle can be adjusted forward or
back to help you get the optimal
position on the bike. Ask your
dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and
to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose
to make your own front and back adjustment, make sure
that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the straight part
of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of
the rails, and that you are using the recommended torque
on the clamping fastener(s) (see the manufacturer’s
instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizon-
tal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up
or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle
or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your
own saddle angle adjustment and you have a single bolt
saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen
the clamp bolt sufciently to allow any serrations on the
mechanism to disengage before changing the saddle’s
angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before
you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque
(see the manufacturer’s instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments
with a single bolt saddle clamp, always check to
make sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces
of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the
clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to
lose control and fall. Always tighten fasteners to the
correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and
deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt,
causing you to lose control and fall.
NOTE:
If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat
post, the suspension mechanism may require periodic
service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommended
service intervals for your suspension seat post.
12
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