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Husqvarna Viking 8 Manual

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Ordinary
darning
Darning
an
edge
Start
by
sewing
backwards
and
forwards
over
the
hole,
making
long
stitches
across
the
fabric
(that
is,
in
the
direction
of
the
selvage).
Since
the
feed
dog
is
inoperative,
you
have
to
move
the
work
by
hand.
The
quicker
you
move
it,
the
longer
will
be
the
stitches.
The
darned
spot
will
be
stronger
and
less
visible
if
the
stitches
run
off
unevenly
into
the
fabric.
When
you
have
stitched
in
one
direc
tion,
turn
the
work
around
a
quarter
turn
and
work
across.
See
Fig.
36.
Filling
in
can
be
done
lengthwise,
on
the
bias,
or
round
in
circles
—
all
depending
on
the
fabric.
Move
the
work
slowly,
to
keep
the
stitches
short,
and
see
that
they
match
the
material.
For
a
big
hole
you
can
use
gauze
as
a
base.
Fold
a
piece
double
and
lay
it
over
the
hole,
then
run
a
row
of
stitching
around
it
about
1/4
in.
(6
mm)
from
the
edge
of
the
hole,
and
trim
off.
This
saves
you
the
trouble
of
“weaving”
all
you
need
to
do
is
to
fill
in.
With
the
wrong
side
uppermost,
stretch
the
fabric
in
the
hoop
so
that
the
hole
comes
in
the
middle
(Fig.
37).
Then
take
a
needle
and
thread
and
lace
the
free
edge
to
the
taped
innerring
of
the
hoop.
Having
placed
the
work
in
the
machine,
bring
up
and
lock
the
threads
at
the
edge
of
the
hole,
and
stitch
four
times
up
and
down
along
the
line
of
the
new
edge.
Move
the
work
quickly
to
make
these
stitches
long.
Then
continue
stitching
parallel
to
the
edge
until
the
hole
is
covered.
Fill
in
with
short
stitches
(mo
ving
the
work
slowly)
running
at
right
angles
to
the
edge,
and
finally
reinforce
the
edge
by
stitching
along
it
a
couple
of
times.
Fig.
36.
Fig.
37.
20
… 22 …


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