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Embroidery
with
solid
raised
stitching
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
lower
the
feed
dog.
Thread
the
mahcine
with
an
embroidery
thread
intended
for
sewing
machines
(silk
or
mercerized
thread).
Stretch
the
fabric
with
the
outline
design
on
an
embroidery
hoop.
First
sew
a
stitch
or
two
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
to
bring
up
the
lower
thread;
then
holding
both
the
upper
and
lower
threads
lock
them
by
again
sewing
a
couple
of
stitches.
Run
around
the
contours
of
the
design
with
fine
stitches
(Fig.
26)
and
start
filling
in
the
design
with
rows
of
stitches
by
gui
ding
the
hoop
slowly
backwards
and
for
wards
under
the
needle.
After
an
even
padding
has
been
obtained,
finish
off
with
long
straight
stitches
as
in
hand
work.
Appliqué
Tack
the
pattern
in
position
and
place
the
work
in
the
embroidery
frame.
Stitch
it
fast
with
small,
tight
stitches
around
the
edge.
The
ragged
edges
can
be
cove
red
by
fastening
the
thicker
thread
with
a
couple
of
cross
stitches,
laying
it
one
side
and
sewing
a
couple
of
stitches
along
the
edge
of
the
pattern,
then
sewing
anot
her
couple
of
stitches
over
the
thicker
thread
and
couple
more
along
the
edge
of
the
pattern
and
so
on.
(Fig.
27.)
Piping
and
braiding
If
piping,
wool
or
braid
is
to
be
sewn
on
the
material
(soutache
embroidery)
the
piping
apparatus
is
a
very
handy
accessory.
This
is
similar
to
the
presser
foot
(and
replaces
it)
but
is
fitted
at
the
front
with
an
opening
through
which
the
pipings
run
(Fig.
28).
Insert
the
piping
under
the
needle
as
far
as
it
will
go,
depress
the
presser
foot
and
begin
to
sew.
When
sewing
in
braid
the
braider
must
used.
First
of
all
sew
an
ordinary
seam
in
double
material.
Place
the
braid
between
the
layers
of
material,
adjust
the
braider
and
allow
the
raised
part
from
the
brad
to
run
through
the
groove
by
the
needle
hole
while
at
the
same
time
sritchn’
a
new
seam
as
close
to
the
braid
as
po;sible
without
actually
sewing
into
it.
When
several
rows
of
braiding
are
sewn,
the
preceding
row
runs
in
the
other
groove.
/_
i
Fig.
26.
Fig.
27.
Fig.
28.
15
17


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