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Needle
and
thread
Table
on
needle
and
thread
should
always
be
convenient
to
fabric.
Use
needle
system
705/130.
Upper
and
lower
thread
generally
equal,
lower
thread
eventually
somewhat
thinner,
but
never
thicker
than
upper
thread.
When
working
the
fabric,
a
general
hint:
Thin
material:
needle
Nm
70—SO
Medium
material:
needle
Nm
80—90
Heavy
material:
needle
Nm
100—110
Needle
point:
for
elastic
material:
girdles
helanca,
for
repair
R-point
for new
sewing
R-k-point
For
normal
sewing
works:
R-point.
For
exact
embroideries,
e.
g.
letters, cording
works
with
bed
linen
etc.
R-spi-point,
When
using
synth,
thread,
upper
and
lower
thread
tension
should
be
adjusted
looser,
thus
the
seam
is
more
elastic.
Needle
Cotton
Silk
Synth.
Linen
Nm
triple
Ne
Nm
Nm
Et.
No.
60—70
80
1203
100/120/3
70—80
70
100—80/3
70-120/3
80—90
50—60
70/3
50—100/3
70/3
90—100
30—40
603
40—70/3
603
100—1
10
20—30
50/3
40—5G’3
50/3
1
10—1
20 20
40i3
30—40/3
40/3
120—130
12
30/3
30/3
30—40/3
130—140
20—30i3
303
140—1
50
20:3
25/3
150—160
embroidery
20:3
thread
6-phase
183
180—200
embroidery
thread
9-phase
Material
Kind
of
thread
and
thickness
Needle
point
and
thickness
Cotton
twill,
bed
linen,
all
days-cloths
etc.
Cotton
40
R
Nm
90—100
Cambric
of
all
kind,
for
blouses
Depend.
on
kind
of
material,
For
normal
sewing
works
A
Nm
70—80
Cloth
for
shirts
and
blouses
(repairs
with
silk
100
or
cotton
80
For
embroideries
R-spi
Nm
70—80
synth.
shirts
and
blouses
too)
Cotton
60—80, silk
100
or
A
Nm
70—80
Terry
and
chenille
cloths,
for
bathing-
synth.
100-1
20
dep.
on
kind
and
thickness
of
material
wraps
too
RNm9O—100
Elastic
corsetery
Cotton
40
or
silk
80
Firm
corsetery
Synth.
60
or
cotton
40
A-k
Nm
90
Knitted,
wool
Cotton
40—60
A
Nm
90
Knitted,
synth.
Silk
80-1
00
or
cotton
60
Fl
Nm
80—1
00
(thread
tension loose)
Synth.
70-1
20
depend.
R
Nm
80-1
00
Clothing
material
of:
sateen,
ottoman,
on
kind
of
material
tafetas,
crêpe,
chiffon
etc.
Silk
100
or
cotton
60—80
A
Nm
80—90
for
sateen
and
tafetas
Nm
70—80
Dresses
of
cotton
dto.
of
wool
Cotton
40—60
A
Nm
80—100
Lastex-
and
Helanca
cloth
Silk
110
or
cotton
40—60
A
Nm
80—100
(thread tension
loose)
Synth. 60—70
depend.
A
Nm
80-1
00
Suitings
and
mantlings
or
silk
40—60
Cotton
40—50
or
silk
80-1
00
A
Nm
90—100
Soft
furnishings
of:
merc,
cotton
60—80
A
Nm
80
cotton,
synth.
A
Nm
70—80
Acella
(plastics)
synth.
120
Cotton
60
A
Nm
80—90
artif.
leather,
canvas
Decorative
seams
Buttonhole
silk
40
3
A
Nm
100—110
12


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