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Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and
other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubri-
cant at regular intervals.
Taking up the pedals, engaging and disengaging the shoes
should first be practised while stationary. Later you can refine
your technique in a place free of traffic.
The cleat should be positioned so that the ball of your feet rests over the
pedal spindle (a). Your feet should assume a natural position when pedal-
ling. For most people this means that the heels will point a little inward. Your
bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you adjusting and mounting the pedal
best meeting your demands!
Make sure the fastening bolts of the cleats are properly tight-
ened, as you will find it almost impossible to disengage your
shoe from the pedal, if the cleat is loose. Risk of an accident!
The release force of clipless pedals is adjusted by means of an Allen key (b).
If there are any creaking or squeaking noises occurring, some grease will
solve the problem in most cases. These noises as well as lateral play of the
shoe on the pedal can, however, be also signs of wear. Check the cleats at
regular intervals.
Only use clipless pedals allowing you to engage and disengage
smoothly (c). A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can make
the shoe disengage from the pedal. Or unclipping the shoe from
the pedal is sometimes very difficult or even impossible. In both
cases, there is the danger of an accident!
Inform yourself at your bicycle dealer about the various models
of cycling shoes available. Cycling shoes come in various styles
for specific uses.
Some mountain bike pedals, also referred to as platform pedals,
are designed for maximum grip of the shoes when dirtbiking
and freeriding (d). For this reason they have sharp edges and/
or bolted pins. As they enhance the risk of injuries during riding,
you should wear protective clothing, e.g. knee and shin guards.
a
b
c
d
16 General Notes on Care and
Inspection
It is advisable to have your bicycle serviced regularly by your bicycle dealer
after the bedding in phase. If your bicycle does harder service, because you
ride a great deal on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it will require cor-
respondingly shorter maintenance periods. The off-season during the winter
months is a very good time to take your bicycle to your bicycle dealer for the
annual inspection, as they will have plenty of time for servicing.
Servicing and repairs are jobs best left to your bicycle dealer. If
you have your bicycle serviced by anyone else than an expert,
you run the risk that parts of your bicycle will fail. This may lead
to an accident! When working on your bicycle restrict yourself
to jobs for which you are equipped e.g. with a torque wrench (a)
and have the necessary knowledge.
If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use
original spare parts (b).
a
b
Your bicycle dealer will have assembled and adjusted your bicycle ready
for use when you come to collect it. Nevertheless, your bicycle needs regu-
lar servicing. Have your local bicycle dealer do the scheduled maintenance
work. This is the only way to ensure that all components function safely and
reliably for many miles.
The bicycle will be due for its first maintenance after 100 to 300 kilometres
(60 to 180 miles), 5 to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks. The bed-
ding in phase typically involves spokes slightly losing tension, cables stretch-
ing, gears becoming out of adjustment and bearings settling, so there is
every reason to have your dealer service the bicycle at this stage. This bed-
ding and settling in process is unavoidable. Therefore, remember to make
an appointment with your bicycle dealer for the first inspection of your new
bicycle. The first inspection is very important for both functioning and dura-
bility of your bicycle.
For your own safety, bring your bicycle to your dealer for its
first inspection after 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to 180 miles), 5
to 15 hours of initial use or four to six weeks, at the very latest
however after three months.
122


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