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PART II
(continued from previous page)
OEM vs. Aftermarket Fork Parts
Compatibility
Your bicycle was shipped by GT with a compatible
component specication. The fork, the handlebar
stem, the headset parts (i.e. spacers, bearings, crown
race), and the compression assembly are parts of the
system. Other handlebar stems, headset parts, and
compression assemblies available to you from sources
other than GT may not be compatible.
Incompatible parts can cause serious damage
(cracking, splitting, scoring, or deformation) of the
steerer tube.
Aftermarket Handlebar Stems
Many handlebar stem designs from many dierent
manufacturers are available. It is impossible to
provide a listing of compatibility based on availability.
Don’t think availability means compatibility. Here are
some factors aecting compatibility:
1. A compatible handlebar stem must be compatible.
with both the steerer and handlebar.
2. The stem must be designed for use with carbon
forks having an 1 1/8 steerer tubes, without
adaptation or alteration of the stem or the steerer
tube. The surfaces must mate correctly.
3. The inside diameter of the stem clamping surface
must be smooth, free of burrs. It must t the
outside diameter of the steerer tube snugly with
the clamp bolts completely loosened. The stem
surfaces in contact with the steerer must be
smooth, without interruptions (large openings
or holes). When clamped to the recommended
tightening torque, the stem must not pinch or
cause other impressions or cuts in the steerer tube.
Smooth and remove any burrs with ne sand
paper (220 is ideal).
4. Wedge clamping stems must not be used.
What You Have To Know When Installing
Or Adjusting Any Handlebar Stem
The steerer tube length for any GT carbon ber fork
with a carbon steerer is limited to the MAXIMUM
STACK HEIGHT of 55mm. This aects the height
adjustment of the stem. No spacers may be used on
top of a stem. The stack measurement method is
shown on the following page. If the steerer tube is cut
to accommodate a lesser spacer stack height, please
observe the following:
1. Cutting must be done by a professional bike
mechanic experience d with carbon components.
2. To produce a straight cut, use a fork cutting jig
(e.g., Park Tool SG-6). See http://www.parktool.
com/tools/SG_6.shtml.
3. Do not clamp steerer tube directly in vice jaws
and/or cut the steerer free hand. Vice jaws can
crack or damage the surface of the steerer. Locate
the jig on the cut o end of the steerer tube to
avoid placing a clamping force on the steerer tube
which could produces cracks. Alternatively, you
can clamp the steerer in grooved wooden blocks
positioned in vice. Do not over-tighten the vice.
4. Additionally, when cutting a carbon steerer tube,
use composites hacksaw blade (tungsten carbide
gritted) or a very ne toothed (36 toothed) new
blade. To minimize fraying of the carbon bers,
wrap the area of cut with masking tape. Make
only one clean complete cut. Do not scratch,
score, or mark the steerer tube surface other than
the complete cut. Scratching, scoring or making
other marks on the tube surfaces other than the
complete cut, or cutting the steerer tube to an
incorrect length for a specic stem/headset can
compromise the strength of the steerer tube.
After the steerer tube is cut, round the cut edges
smooth and remove any burrs with ne sand
paper (220 is ideal).
WARNING
We urge you to consult closely with your local
Authorized GT Dealer. This will help to make
sure that any aftermarket choices you make are
compatible with your bike’s OEM parts and will
not cause serious damage to your bike.
100


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