Warning: Do not cut down a tree during high or
changing winds or if there is a danger to property.
Consult a tree professional. Do not cut down a tree if
there is a danger of striking utility wires; notify the
utility company before making any cuts.
General guidelines for felling trees (Fig. 12)
Normally felling consists of 2 main cutting operations,
notching (C) and making the felling cut (D).
Start making the upper notch cut (C) on the side of
the tree facing the felling direction (E). Be sure you
don t make the lower cut too deep into the trunk.
The notch (C) should be deep enough to create a
hinge (F) of sufficient width and strength. The notch
should be wide enough to direct the fall of the tree for
as long as possible.
Warning: Never walk in front of a tree that has
been notched. Make the felling cut (D) from the other
side of the tree and 1.5 - 2.0 inches (3-5 cm) above
the edge of the notch (C).
Never saw completely through the trunk. Always leave
a hinge. The hinge guides the tree. If the trunk is
completely cut through, control over the felling
direction is lost.
Insert a wedge or felling lever in the cut well before
the tree becomes unstable and starts to move. This
will prevent the guidebar from binding in the felling cut
if you have misjudged the falling direction. Make sure
no bystanders have entered the range of the falling
tree before you push it over.
Warning: Before making the final cut, always
recheck the area for bystanders, animals or
obstacles.
Felling cut
1. Use wooden or plastic wedges (A) to prevent
binding the bar or chain (B) in the cut. Wedges
also control felling (Fig. 13).
2. When diameter of wood being cut is greater than
the bar length, make 2 cuts as shown (Fig. 14).
Warning: As the felling cut gets close to the
hinge, the tree should begin to fall. When tree begins
to fall, remove saw from cut, stop engine, put chain
saw down, and leave area along retreat path (Fig. 11).
Limbing
Limbing a tree is the process of removing the
branches from a fallen tree. Do not remove supporting
limbs (A) until after the log is bucked (cut) into lengths
(Fig. 15). Branches under tension should be cut from
the bottom up to avoid binding the chain saw.
Warning: Never cut tree limbs while standing on
tree trunk.
Bucking
Bucking is cutting a fallen log into lengths. Make sure
you have a good footing and stand uphill of the log
when cutting on sloping ground. If possible, the log
should be supported so that the end to be cut off is
not resting on the ground. If the log is supported at
both ends and you must cut in the middle, make a
downward cut halfway through the log and then make
the undercut. This will prevent the log from pinching
the bar and chain. Be careful that the chain does not
cut into the ground when bucking as this causes rapid
dulling of the chain. When bucking on a slope, always
stand on the uphill side.
1. Log supported along entire length: Cut from
top (overbuck), being careful to avoid cutting into
the ground (Fig. 16A).
2. Log supported on 1 end: First, cut from bottom
(underbuck) 1/3 diameter of log to avoid
splintering. Second, cut from above (overbuck) to
meet first cut and avoid pinching (Fig. 16B).
3. Log supported on both ends: First, overbuck
1/3 diameter of log to avoid splintering. Second,
underbuck to meet first cut and avoid pinching
(Fig. 16C).
Note: The best way to hold a log while bucking is to
use a sawhorse. When this is not possible, the log
should be raised and supported by the limb stumps or
by using supporting logs. Be sure the log being cut is
securely supported.
Bucking using a sawhorse (Fig. 17)
For personal safety and ease of cutting, the correct
position for vertical bucking is essential (Fig. 17).
A. Hold the saw firmly with both hands and keep the
saw to the right of your body while cutting.
B. Keep the left arm as straight as possible.
C. Keep weight on both feet.
Caution: When working with the saw, always
make sure that the saw chain and chain bar are
sufficiently lubricated.
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