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3 Maniement
3.1 Aiguilles, fils et fils de passe
Aiguilles
Système d’aiguilles: 558 / 579
Grosseur d’aiguille: Nm 80-120 (558) / Nm 90-125 (579)
selon la nature du fil, du tissu et de l’équipement de couture (N° E).
ATTENTION!
En passant d’un système d’aiguille à un autre, il faut contrôler
impérativement la distance entre le boucleur et l’aiguille et l’ajustage
du dispositif de protège-aiguille (voir instructions de service).
Fils
L’aspect extérieur de la boutonnière est fortement influencé par le fil
utilisé.
On peut employer comme fil de boucleur et d’aiguille des fils
filamenteux synthétiques mais aussi bien des fils en soie.
Le fil utilisé
Utilisation de fils dont la grosseur est différente pour le fil de
boucleur et le fil d’aiguille.
Ganses
La ganse (ou fil de passe) doit donner de la tenue à la boutonnière et
lui procurer un certain relief.
Elle devrait avoir les qualités suivantes:
ne pas être trop épaisse, mais souple et ferme,
avoir un diamètre régulier
Les fils recommandés au tableau ci-dessous ne sont que des valeurs
indicatives. D’autres fils et grosseurs de fil peuvent devenir
nécessaires: cela dépend de l’équipement de couture (N° E) et de
l’ouvrage.
Sous-classe Type et grosseur du fil Type et grosseur du fil Type et grosseur du fil de
d’aiguille de boucleur passe de boucleur
580-112000 Fil en fibre de polyester Fil en fibre de polyester non requis
en schappe de soie en schappe de soie
580-312000 70/3 70/3
80/3 70/3
580-141000 Poly-Poly 80/2 Poly-Poly 80/2 Poly-Schappe 15/3
580-151000
580-321000
580-341000
10
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  • The blade of my botten hole machine has follen what should I do
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