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ENGLISH
Do not cut ferrous (iron and steel) materials, fibre cement or masonry
with this saw!
Make sure to use the kerf plate. Do not operate the machine if the kerf
slot is wider than 10 mm.
Switching on and off (fig. L)
A hole (58) is provided in the on/ off switch (1) for insertion of a padlock to
lock the tool.
To run the tool, press the on/off switch (1).
To stop the tool, release the switch.
Setting the variable speed (fig. L)
The speed control dial (13) can be used for advance setting of the required
range of speed.
Turn the speed control dial (13) to the desired range, which is indicated
by a number.
Use high speeds for sawing soft materials such as wood.
Use low speeds for sawing metal.
Basic saw cuts
Vertical straight cross cut (fig. A1, A2 & M)
Release the mitre lever (4) and depress the mitre latch (5) to release the
mitre arm.
Engage the mitre latch at the 0° position and tighten the mitre lever.
Place the wood to be cut against the fence (3 & 8).
Take hold of the operating handle (11) and depress the head lock up
release lever (12) to release the head.
Press the trigger switch (1) to start the motor.
Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through the timber and
enter the plastic kerf plate (9).
After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw blade
to come to a complete standstill before returning the head to its upper
rest position.
Performing a sliding cut (fig. N)
The guide rail allows cutting larger workpieces from 50 x 100 mm up to
500 x 1000 mm using an out-down-back sliding motion.
Release the rail lock knob (16).
Pull the saw head towards you and switch the tool on.
Lower the saw blade into the workpiece and push the head back to
complete the cut.
Proceed as described above.
Do not perform sliding cuts on workpieces smaller than
50 x 100 mm.
Remember to lock the saw head in the rear position when the
sliding cuts are finished.
Vertical mitre cross-cut (fig. A1, A2 & O)
Release the mitre lever (4) and depress the mitre latch (5).
Move the arm left or right to the required angle. The mitre latch will
automatically locate at 10°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62° and 45° both left and
right, and at 60° left and 50° right. If any intermediate angle is required
hold the head firmly and lock by tightening the mitre lever.
Always ensure that the mitre lever is locked tightly before cutting.
Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a small off-cut,
position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to the side of
the blade with the greater angle to the fence; i.e. left mitre,
off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel cuts (fig. A1, A2 & P)
Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 48° right and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right or
left.
Left bevel
Slide the upper part of the left side fence (3) to the left as far as it will go.
Loosen the bevel clamp handle (21), lift the bevel latch (20) and set the
bevel as desired.
The bevel latch automatically locates at 22.5°, 33.85° and 45°. If any
intermediate angle is required, hold the head firmly and lock by
tightening the bevel clamp handle (21).
Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Right bevel
Slide the upper part of the right side fence (8) to the right as far as it will
go.
Proceed as for a left bevel cut.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower,
even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not creep while cutting; clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before
raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at the rear
of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood
where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
Body and hand position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre saw
will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place your hands near the cutting area.
Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
Do not cross your hands.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece (fig. A6)
Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
For best results use the clamp (29) made for use with your saw.
Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp
to either side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp
against a solid, flat surface of fence.
Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals.
Support for long pieces (fig. A4)
Always support long pieces.
For best results, use the extension work support (27) to extend the
table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
33


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