Manual DeWalt DW703 T 3 (page 29 of 108) (English, German, Dutch, Danish, French, Italian, Polish, Portuguese, Swedish, Turkish, Spanish, Norwegian, Finnish)

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ENGLISH

21 en - 6

• For best results use the clamp (31) made for use with your saw.

Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp

to either side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp

against a solid, flat surface of fence.

Always use a material clamp when cutting non-ferrous metals.

Support for long pieces (fig. A3)

• Always support long pieces.

• For best results, use the extension work support (29) to extend the

table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).

Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as saw-

horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.

Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects

(fig. N1 & N2)

Trim moulding and other frames

Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for

your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown

in fig. N1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.

- Using bevel adjustment

The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90°

corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is

positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge

against the fence.

- Using mitre adjustment

The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface

against the fence.

The two sketches (fig. N1 & N2) are for four side objects only. As the

number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart

below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all

sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,

divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.

No. of sides Angle mitre or bevel

4 45°

5 36°

6 30°

7 25.7°

8 22.5°

9 20°

10 18°

Compound mitre (fig. O1 & O2)

A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. N2) and a bevel

angle (fig. N1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make

frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. O1.

If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel

clamp knob and the mitre lock knob are securely tightened.

These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in

bevel or mitre.

• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and

mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,

select the desired angle “A” (fig. O2) of your project and locate that

angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the

chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across

to find the correct mitre angle.

• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.

• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.

• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle “A”)

(fig. O2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the

horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting

on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top

or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try

cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.

Vernier scale (fig. P1 - P3)

Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. For settings

that require partial degrees (

/4°,

/2°,

/4°), the vernier scale allows you to

accurately set mitre angles to the nearest

/4° (15 minutes). To use the

vernier scale follow the steps listed below.

As an example, assume that the angle you want to mitre is 24

/4° right.

• Switch off the mitre saw.

• Set the mitre angle to the nearest whole degree desired by aligning the

centre mark in the vernier scale, shown in fig. P1, with the whole

degree number etched in the mitre scale. Examine fig. P2 closely;

the setting shown is 24° right mitre.

• To set the additional

/4°, squeeze the mitre arm lock and carefully

move the arm to the right until the

/4° vernier mark aligns with the

closest degree mark on the mitre scale.

In this example, the closest degree mark on the mitre scale happens to

be 25°. Fig. P3 shows a setting of 24

/4° right mitre.

• When mitring to the right:

- increase the mitre angle by moving the arm to align the appropriate

vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the right.

- decrease the mitre angle by moving the arm to align the appropriate

vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the left.

• When mitring to the left:

- increase the mitre angle by moving the arm to align the appropriate

vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the left.

- decrease the mitre angle by moving the arm to align the appropriate

vernier mark with the closest mark on the mitre scale to the right.

Cutting base mouldings

The cutting of base moulding is performed at a 45° bevel angle.

• Always make a dry run without power before making any cuts.

• All cuts are made with the back of the moulding laying flat on the saw.

Inside corner

- Left side

• Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.

• Save the left side of the cut.

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45

SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW

SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW

ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")

SQUARE BOX

6 SIDED BOX

8 SIDED BOX

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DeWalt DW703 T 3 Manual

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