Manual Brother XS3109 (page 118 of 120) (English)

English

885-E42/E43

Printed in China

APPENDIX

UTILITY STITCHES

SEWING BASICS

KNOWING YOUR

SEWING MACHINE

Operation Manual

Product Code: 885-E42/E43

Sewing Machine

XG2315-001

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.

We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

Please visit us at http://support.brother.com/ where you can get product

support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Operation Manual

885-E42/E43

Cover1-4

PANTONE 285C K

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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,

when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the

machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or

injury to persons.

2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned

in the instruction manual:

• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp

the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Electrical Hazards:

• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the

rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of

power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.

• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.

4 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has

been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest

authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,

discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.

• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other

part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.

• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise

you may injure your back or knees.

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5 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the

machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Do not store objects on the foot controller.

• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being

administered.

• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,

power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise

the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

6 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the

needle area.

• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching

so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

7 This machine is not a toy:

• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or

disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

• Do not use outdoors.

8 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store

the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders

can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,

needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

9 For repair or adjustment:

• If the light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table

in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem

persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.

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Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced

physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge,

unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the

appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to

ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons

with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and

knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the

appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not

play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by

children without supervision.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND

CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the

mark, rating as marked on plug.

• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you

should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

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CONTENTS

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...............................................................................1

1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................6

ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................6

Included accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 6

Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 7

Accessory compartment ................................................................................................................................... 7

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................8

The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 8

Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 9

Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 9

Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 10

Spool pin ........................................................................................................................................................ 11

Flip chart ........................................................................................................................................................ 12

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...................................................................................13

Power supply precautions .............................................................................................................................. 13

Power supply .................................................................................................................................................. 14

Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 14

Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... 15

Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 15

Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 15

Cancelling the operation beep ....................................................................................................................... 16

THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................17

Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 17

Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 22

Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 25

Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 30

REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................31

Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 31

Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 31

Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 32

Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 32

Sewing with the twin needle ........................................................................................................................... 34

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................36

Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 36

Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 37

2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................38

SEWING ............................................................................................................................38

General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 38

Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 39

Adjusting the stitch length and width .............................................................................................................. 40

Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 41

Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... 43

USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................44

Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 44

Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 44

Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 44

Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 44

Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape .............................................................................................................. 45

Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 46

Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 46

Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................................................................................................................. 46

3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................47

OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................47

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Using zigzag foot ............................................................................................................................................ 47

Using overcasting foot .................................................................................................................................... 48

BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................49

Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 49

BLIND HEM STITCHING ..................................................................................................50

BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................53

Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 57

ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................59

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................61

Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 61

Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 61

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................63

Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 64

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 64

Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 64

Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 65

Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 66

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................68

Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 68

Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 68

DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................70

Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 71

Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 72

Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 72

Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 73

Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 73

Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 74

SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches) ............................75

Sewing beautiful patterns ............................................................................................................................... 75

Selecting characters ....................................................................................................................................... 76

Checking characters ...................................................................................................................................... 79

Deleting characters ........................................................................................................................................ 79

Sewing the character stitches ........................................................................................................................ 79

ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches) .............................80

4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................82

STITCH SETTINGS .............................................................................................................82

Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 82

Satin stitches .................................................................................................................................................. 89

Mirror image stitches ...................................................................................................................................... 90

Character stitches .......................................................................................................................................... 93

MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................95

Restrictions on oiling ...................................................................................................................................... 95

Precautions on storing the machine ............................................................................................................... 95

Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 95

Cleaning the race ........................................................................................................................................... 95

TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................98

Frequent troubleshooting topics ..................................................................................................................... 98

Upper thread tightened up ............................................................................................................................. 98

Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .......................................................................................................... 99

Incorrect thread tension ............................................................................................................................... 102

Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ............................................................................. 103

Error message “E6” appears in the LCD ...................................................................................................... 107

List of symptoms .......................................................................................................................................... 109

ERROR MESSAGES ..........................................................................................................114

Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................ 114

INDEX .............................................................................................................................115

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1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

Included accessories

After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged,

contact your dealer.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

● Foot controller: Model T

This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 885-E43. The product code is

mentioned on the machine rating plate.

● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)

● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.

Memo

● About zigzag foot “J”;

Press the black button on the left side of the foot when it is difficult for thick seams

to be fed, for example, at the beginning of sewing thick fabrics. (page 45)

aBlack button

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

9. 10.

75/11 1 needle

90/14 1 needle

100/16 1 needle

11. 12.

90/14 1 needle

13. 14. 15.

16. 17. 18. 19.

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas

Others

1

Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)

XZ5134-001

2 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033

3 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031

4 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031

5 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021

6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001

7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001

8 Seam ripper XZ5082-001

9

Bobbin (4)

(One is on machine.)

SA156

SFB:

XA5539-151

10 Needle set XC8834-021

11 Twin needle 131096-121

12

Ball point needle

(gold colored)

XD0360-021

13 Cleaning brush X59476-021

14 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051

15 Spool cap (large) 130012-024

16

Spool cap (medium)

(on machine)

XE1372-001

17 Spool cap (small) 130013-124

18 Extra spool pin XE2241-001

Foot controller

XD0501-121 (EU area)

XC8816-071 (Other areas)

19

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas

Others

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Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you

purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.

Accessory compartment

The accessories are stored in a compartment inside

the flat bed attachment. Open the compartment as

shown in the figure below.

a Flat bed attachment

b Storage compartment

Note

● Store the accessories in the compartment

when they are not used.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas

Others

1 Walking foot SA140

F033N:

XC2214-052

2 Quilting foot SA129

F005N:

XC1948-052

3 1/4-inch quilting foot SA125

F001N:

XC1944-052

4 Quilting guide SA132

F016N:

XC2215-052

5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001

No. Part Name

Part Code

Americas

Others

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NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

The illustrations in this operation manual may differ from the actual machine.

The main parts

a Bobbin winder (page 17)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the

lower thread.

b Upper tension-control dial (page 43)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

c Bobbin-winding thread guide and pre-tension disc

(page 19)

Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the

pre-tension disc when winding the bobbin thread.

d Thread take-up lever (page 27)

e Thread cutter (page 42)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

f Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

(page 7 and 46)

g Operation buttons (page 9)

The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing

machine model.

h Operation panel (page 10)

This is used to select the stitch and specify the various

settings. Design and position of the operation panel

differs depending on the sewing machine model.

i Spool pin (page 11, 17 and 25)

This holds the spool of thread.

j Handwheel

This is used to manually raise and lower the needle.

k Air vent

This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to

circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing

machine is being used.

l Main power and sewing light switch (page 14)

You can turn the main power and sewing light switch

on and off.

m Jack/socket connector (page 14)

Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/

socket connector.

n Foot controller (page 14)

You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to

start and stop sewing.

o Foot controller jack/socket (page 14)

Plug in the foot controller plug.

p Feed dog position lever (page 57 and 67)

Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.

q Presser foot lever (page 25)

This is used to raise and lower the presser foot.

r Thread guide (page 18 and 27)

This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin

and then threading the machine.

s Thread guide cover (page 18 and 27)

Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding

the bobbin thread and threading the machine.

t Handle

Carry the sewing machine by its handle when

transporting the machine.

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Needle and presser foot section

a Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle

threader) (page 28)

b Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes

and bar tacks.

c Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.

d Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser

foot holder in place.

e Presser foot

The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the

fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate

presser foot for the selected stitching.

f Needle plate cover release

Use when removing the needle plate cover.

g Needle plate cover

Remove the needle plate cover to clean the race.

h Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

i Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-

set bobbin)

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.

j Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.

k Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing

straight seams.

l Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

m Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower

the presser foot.

n Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

Operation buttons

The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.

a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button

Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew

reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping

the button pressed down to sew in the opposite

direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement

stitches” (page 42).

b Start/stop button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The

machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of

sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is

stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,

refer to “Starting to sew” (page 41).

c Needle position button

Press the needle position button to raise or lower the

needle. Be sure to raise the needle before threading the

needle. Use this button to change the sewing direction

or for detailed sewing in small areas. Pressing the button

twice sews one stitch.

d Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing

speed.

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Operation panel

The operation panel, located on the front of the

sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and

specify how the stitch will be sewn.

The operation panel differs depending on the sewing

machine model.

a LCD (liquid crystal display)

1 The number of the selected stitch

2 The presser foot type to be used

3 The selected stitch type number

4 The stitch length (mm)

5 The stitch width (mm)

6 The auto reverse/reinforcement

b Stitch selection keys

Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the

number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,

refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).

c Stitch length adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–”

side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side to

increase the stitch length.)

d Stitch width adjustment key

Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–”

side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side to

increase the stitch width.)

■

Keys and indicators

e Utility stitch key

Press this key to select the desired type of utility stitches.

Press this key once or more until the desired stitch type

number is displayed on the LCD. For details, refer to

“Selecting a stitch” (page 39).

f Utility stitch indicator

This indicator lights up when the utility stitch is selected.

g Character stitch key

Press this key to select the desired font type of character

stitches. Press this key once or more until the desired

stitch type number is displayed on the LCD. For details,

refer to “Selecting characters” (page 76).

h Character stitch indicator

This indicator lights up when the character stitch is

selected.

h

e

f

g

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Spool pin

As shown, press down on the spool pin lever with

your finger to raise the spool pin.

■ Storing the spool cap

The enclosed spool cap (large, medium, small)

can be stored by attaching it to the spool pin as

shown in the illustration. When attaching the

spool cap, position it with the rounded side

toward the spool pin.

■ Storing the spool pin

When placing the cover on the sewing machine

before storing or if the spool pin will not be used,

return the spool pin to its storage position.

Remove the spool from the spool pin, and then

fold up the spool pin, as shown in the illustration,

until it snaps into place to secure it.

● Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,

otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

CAUTION

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■ Installing the spool pin

a

If the spool pin has been removed from the

machine, insert the tab on the spool pin into

the hole on the back of the machine, as

shown.

a Hole

b Tab

b

Push the spool pin down until it locks into

place.

Flip chart

You can check the pattern numbers of the stitches

using the flip chart on the machine.

Hold the notch with your finger to flip the chart.

For models equipped with a flip chart on the top

panel

For models equipped with a flip chart on the front

panel

a Notch

1

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USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in

fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power

supply jack on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.

● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

• When you are away from the machine

• After using the machine

• When the power fails during use

• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

• During electrical storms

● Use only the power cord included with this machine.

● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire

or electric shock may result.

● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

●

When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from

the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.

Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the

cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your

authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.

●

Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

WARNING

CAUTION

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Power supply

a

Insert the plug into a wall outlet.

a Main power switch

b Jack/socket connector

b

Set the main power switch to “I”.

X The sewing light comes on when the

machine is turned on.

Memo

● When the machine is turned on, the needle

and the feed dogs will make sound when

they move; this is not a malfunction.

c

To turn off the machine, set the main power

switch to “

{”.

X The sewing light goes off when the

machine is turned off.

Note

● If a power outage occurs while the sewing

machine is being operated, turn off the

sewing machine and unplug the power

supply cord. When restarting the sewing

machine, follow the necessary procedure to

correctly operate the machine.

(For U.S.A. only)

● This appliance has a polarized plug (one

blade wider than the other). To reduce the

risk of electric shock, this plug is intended

to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If

the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,

reverse the plug.

If it still does not fit, contact a qualified

electrician to install the proper outlet. Do

not modify the plug in any way.

Foot controller

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on

the rear side of the sewing machine.

a Foot controller jack/socket

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the

machine will run at a low speed. When you press

harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you

take your foot off the foot controller, the machine

will stop.

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the

foot controller when the machine is not in use.

Note

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannot be used to start

sewing (only for models equipped with the

start/stop button).

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● When connecting the foot controller, be sure

to turn off the sewing machine in order to

prevent the machine from accidentally being

started.

● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build

up on the foot controller. Doing so could

cause a fire or an electric shock.

CAUTION

Slower

Faster

CAUTION

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Sewing speed controller

(for models equipped with

the start/stop button)

a

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

right to select the desired sewing speed.

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to

sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed

controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed

controller is the foot controller’s maximum

sewing speed.

Changing the needle stop position

Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in

the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can

be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.

a

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection

key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “–” side of (stitch selection key).

X The needle stop position changes to the

raised position.

Memo

• Perform the same operation to change the

needle stop position to the lowered position.

Changing the initial needle

position

Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is

automatically selected when the sewing machine is

turned on. The machine can be set so that the

straight stitch (center needle position) is

automatically selected when it is turned on.

a

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

Hold down the “+” side of (stitch selection

key) on the left and turn on the sewing

machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “+” side of (stitch selection key).

X The initial needle position changes to

the center needle position.

Memo

● The specified initial needle position is

maintained even after the machine is turned

off.

● Perform the same operation to change the

initial needle position to the left needle

position.

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Cancelling the operation beep

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to

beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be

changed so that the machine does not beep.

a

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

Hold down the “–” side of (stitch width

adjustment key) and turn on the sewing

machine.

After turning on the sewing machine, release

the “-” side of (stitch width adjustment

key).

X The machine is now set so that it will

not beep.

Memo

● Perform the same operation to change the

setting so that machine beeps.

17

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THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.

• For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 20.

a

As shown, press down on the spool pin lever

with your finger.

X The spool pin swings up.

b

Remove the spool cap.

a Spool pin

b Spool cap

● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing

machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.

● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the

machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the

same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).

a Bobbin-winding

thread guide

b Bobbin winder shaft

c Bobbin

CAUTION

Actual size

This model Other models

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

● Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,

otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

CAUTION

● Be sure to raise the spool pin when winding

the bobbin. The thread may become tangled if

the bobbin winder is used without raising the

spool pin.

CAUTION

18

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

c

Fully insert the spool of thread for the bobbin

onto the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is

horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front

at the bottom.

d

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap

positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap

onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right

so that the spool is moved to the right end of

the spool pin.

Memo

● When sewing with fine, cross-wound

thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a

small space between the cap and the spool.

a Spool cap (small)

b Spool (cross-wound thread)

c Space

e

While holding the spool with your right hand,

and then pass the thread under the thread

guide.

a Thread guide

f

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

from the back to the front.

Hold the thread with your right hand so that

there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,

and then pass the thread under the thread

guide cover with your left hand.

a Thread guide cover

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned

correctly, the thread may become tangled

around the spool pin or the machine may be

damaged.

● Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing

you to choose a spool cap that best fits the

size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too

small for the spool being used, the thread may

catch on the slit in the spool or the machine

may be damaged.

CAUTION

a

c

b

19

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g

Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the

hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and

then wind the thread counterclockwise

between the discs, pulling it in as far as

possible.

a Bobbin-winding thread guide

Make sure that the thread passes under the

pre-tension disk.

b Hook

c Pre-tension disk

d Pull it in as far as possible.

Note

● Make sure that the thread is pulled as far as

possible into the pre-tension disk, otherwise

the bobbin may not be wound cleanly.

h

Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft

and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the

spring on the shaft slides into the notch in the

bobbin.

• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3 to 4

inches) of thread from the hole on the

bobbin.

a Spring on the shaft

b Notch

c 7 – 10 cm (3 – 4 inches)

i

Turn on the sewing machine.

j

While holding the end of the thread, gently

press the foot controller or press (start/stop

button) (for models equipped with the start/

stop button) to wind the thread around the

bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.

Note

● If the sewing machine is to be operated

using the foot controller, connect the foot

controller before turning on the machine.

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannot be used to start

sewing (only for models equipped with the

start/stop button).

k

Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.

• Pull 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole

on the bobbin.

a 1 cm (1/2 inch)

● Pull the thread taut and hold the end of the

thread straight up. If the thread is too short,

not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries

may occur when the thread is wound around

the bobbin.

● Make sure you follow the instructions

carefully. If you do not cut the thread

completely, and the bobbin is wound, when

the thread runs low it may tangle around the

bobbin and cause the needle to break.

CAUTION

1

CAUTION

20

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

l

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

(to set the speed to fast). (For models

equipped with the sewing speed controller.)

a Sewing speed controller

m

Press the foot controller or press (start/

stop button) (for models equipped with the

start/stop button) to start.

n

When the bobbin seems full and begins

spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot

controller or press (start/stop button) (for

models equipped with the start/stop button).

o

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

to the left and remove the bobbin.

p

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

original position (for models equipped with

the sewing speed controller).

Memo

● When the sewing machine is started or the

handwheel is turned after winding the

thread around the bobbin, the machine will

make a clicking sound; this is not a

malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you

slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

■ For models equipped with the fast bobbin

winding system

a

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft

so that the spring on the shaft fits into the

notch in the bobbin.

a Notch

b Bobbin winder shaft spring

b

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

c

Follow steps a through g of the procedure

in “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread

around the pre-tension disk (page 17).

d

While holding the thread that wraps around the

pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your

right hand to wind the free end of the thread

clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.

● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause

the thread tension to loosen, and may break

the needle.

a Wound evenly

b Wound poorly

CAUTION

1

2

21

1

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—

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e

Pull the thread to the right and pass it through

the slit in the bobbin winder seat.

a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)

X The thread is cut to a suitable length.

f

Slide the sewing speed controller to the right

(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped

with the sewing speed controller).

a Sewing speed controller

g

Turn on the sewing machine.

h

Press the foot controller or press (start/

stop button) (for models equipped with the

start/stop button) to start.

Note

● If the sewing machine is to be operated

using the foot controller, connect the foot

controller before turning on the machine.

● When the foot controller is plugged in, the

start/stop button cannot be used to start

sewing (only for models equipped with the

start/stop button).

i

When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take

your foot off the foot controller or press

(start/stop button) (for models equipped with

the start/stop button).

j

Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

to the left, and then remove the bobbin from

the shaft.

k

Slide the sewing speed controller back to its

original position (for models equipped with

the sewing speed controller).

Memo

● When the sewing machine is started or the

handwheel is turned after winding the

thread around the bobbin, the machine will

make a clicking sound; this is not a

malfunction.

● The needle bar does not move when you

slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.

● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the

bobbin is wound without cutting the thread

using the cutter built into the slit in the

bobbin winder seat, the thread may become

tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend

or break when the bobbin thread starts to run

out.

CAUTION

● Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the

thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.

a Wound evenly

b Wound poorly

CAUTION

1

2

22

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

• For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 23.

Memo

● The direction for feeding the bobbin thread

is indicated by marks on the needle plate

cover. Be sure to thread the machine as

indicated.

a

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or

press (needle position button) (for models

equipped with the needle position button), and

raise the presser foot lever.

b

Turn off the sewing machine.

c

Slide the button and open the cover.

a Cover

b Slide button

d

Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in

the direction shown by the arrow.

● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause

the thread tension to loosen, breaking the

needle and resulting in injury.

a Wound evenly

b Wound poorly

● The bobbin was designed specifically for this

sewing machine. If bobbins from other

models are used, the machine will not operate

correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or

bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,

SFB: XA5539-151).

● Make sure you turn the power off while

threading the machine. If you accidentally

step on the foot controller and the machine

starts to sew, you could be injured.

CAUTION

1

2

Actual size

This model Other models

11.5 mm

(7/16 inch)

CAUTION

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread

unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls

in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread

tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

12

CAUTION

23

1

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—

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e

Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin

down with your finger, and then pass the

thread through the slit, as shown.

• If the thread is not correctly inserted through

the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin

case, it may cause incorrect thread tension

(page 43).

a Tension-adjusting spring

f

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on

the right side (see arrow b) until the cover

clicks into place.

• Replace the cover so that the end of the

thread comes out from the left side of the

cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).

■ For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin

Memo

● The direction for feeding the bobbin thread

is indicated by marks on the needle plate

cover. Be sure to thread the machine as

indicated.

a

Raise the needle to its highest position by turning

the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or

press (needle position button) (for models

equipped with the needle position button), and

raise the presser foot lever.

b

Turn off the sewing machine.

c

Slide the button and open the cover.

a Cover

b Slide button

d

Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that the

end of the thread is on the left, and then, after

pulling the thread firmly around the tab with your

left hand as shown, lightly pull the thread to

guide it through the slit.

a Tab

1

● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread

unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls

in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread

tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

12

CAUTION

24

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

e

While lightly holding down the bobbin with

your right hand as shown, guide the thread

through the slit (

a and b).

• At this time, check that the bobbin easily

rotates counterclockwise.

Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with

the cutter (

c).

a Slit

b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

Note

● If the thread is not correctly inserted

through the tension-adjusting spring of the

bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread

tension (page 43).

a Tension-adjusting spring

f

Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in

place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on

the right side (see arrow b) until the cover

clicks into place.

Memo

● You can begin sewing immediately without

drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want

to draw up the bobbin thread before you

start to sew, follow to the procedure in

“Drawing up the lower thread” (page 30).

1

25

1

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Upper threading

Set the upper thread and thread the needle.

• For details on the needle threader, see page 28.

a Spool pin

b Mark on the handwheel

a

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

Raise the presser foot using the presser foot

lever.

a Presser foot lever

c

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up, or press

(needle position button) (for models equipped

with the needle position button) once or twice

to raise the needle.

• If the needle is not correctly raised, the

sewing machine can not be threaded. Be

sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark

on the wheel points up before threading the

sewing machine.

● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct,

the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

● Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.

● Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of

needles and threads, refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page 31).

CAUTION

● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing

machine cannot be threaded correctly.

CAUTION

a Mark b Needle position button

or

26

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

d

As shown, press down on the spool pin lever

with your finger.

X The spool pin swings up.

e

Remove the spool cap.

a Spool pin

b Spool cap

f

Fully insert the spool for the upper thread

onto the spool pin.

Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is

horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front

at the bottom.

g

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap

positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap

onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right

so that the spool is moved to the right end of

the spool pin.

● Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,

otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.

● Be sure to raise the spool pin before use. If the

spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set

incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the

spool pin and cause the needle to break.

CAUTION

● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned

correctly, the thread may become tangled

around the spool pin or the needle may break.

● Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you

to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of

spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for

the spool being used, the thread may catch on

the slit in the spool or the needle may break.

CAUTION

27

1

——

———————————————————————————————————————————

—

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Memo

● When sewing with fine, cross-wound

thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a

small space between the cap and the spool.

a Spool cap (small)

b Spool (cross-wound thread)

c Space

h

While holding the spool with your right hand,

and then pass the thread under the thread

guide.

a Thread guide

i

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

from the back to the front.

Hold the thread with your right hand so that

there is no slack in the thread that is pulled

out, and then pass the thread under the thread

guide cover with your left hand.

a Thread guide cover

j

Feed the upper thread as shown in the

illustration below.

k

Make sure you guide the thread through the

thread take-up lever from right to left as

shown in the illustration below.

a Thread take-up lever

Memo

● If the needle is not raised, the thread take-

up lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to

press the needle position button to raise the

needle before threading the thread take-up

lever.

a

c

b

28

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

l

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread

guide above the needle.

The thread can easily be passed behind the

needle bar thread guide by holding the thread

in your left hand, then feeding the thread with

your right hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

m

Turn off the sewing machine.

n

Thread the needle from front to back and pull

out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the

upper thread cannot be wrapped around the

thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise

the presser foot lever and the thread take-up

lever before you feed the upper thread.

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may

cause sewing problems.

■ Using the needle threader (for models

equipped with the needle threader)

a

Follow steps a through m of the procedure

in “Upper threading” to thread the machine

to the needle bar thread guide.

b

Lower the presser foot lever.

c

While lowering the needle threader lever,

hook the thread onto the guide.

a Needle holder

b Needle threader lever

c Guide

● Make sure you turn the power off while

threading the machine without using the

needle threader (for models equipped with

the needle threader). If you accidentally step

on the foot controller and the machine starts

to sew, you could be injured.

1

CAUTION

● The needle threader can be used with a 75/11

through 100/16 home sewing machine

needle. However, the needle threader cannot

be used with a 65/9 home sewing machine

needle. When using special thread such as

transparent nylon thread or metallic thread,

the needle threader cannot be used.

● Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or thicker

cannot be used with the needle threader.

● The needle threader cannot be used with the

wing needle or the twin needle.

● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to

“Upper threading” (page 25).

CAUTION

29

1

——

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d

Fully lower the needle threader lever.

X The end of the needle threader rotates

toward you and the hook passes

through the eye of the needle.

e

Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.

a Hook

b Thread

f

While lightly holding the thread, release the

needle threader lever. The hook will pull the

thread through the needle.

g

Pull the loop of the thread passed through the

eye of the needle toward the rear of the

machine.

a Loop of thread

h

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

i

Pass the end of the thread through the presser

foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches)

of thread toward the rear of the machine.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may

cause sewing problems.

● Be careful not to pull on the thread with force

or it may bend the needle.

● If the thread does not pass through the eye of

the needle, start from step

c again.

CAUTION

30

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Drawing up the lower thread

a

Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

a Upper thread

b

While holding the end of the upper thread,

raise the needle either by turning the

handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so

that the mark on the wheel points up or by

pressing (needle position button) (for

models equipped with the needle position

button) once or twice.

c

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower

thread.

a Upper thread

b Lower thread

d

Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both

threads and pull them toward the back of the

machine under the presser foot.

a Upper thread

b Lower thread

■ For models equipped with the quick-set

bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without

drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing

gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower

thread by hand so that some thread will be left

over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put

the bobbin back in.

a

Pass the thread along the slit in the direction

of the arrow, and leave it there without

cutting it.

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

b

Draw up the lower thread as described in

steps a to d.

c

Replace the bobbin cover.

a Mark b Needle position button

or

31

1

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REPLACING THE NEEDLE

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.

Needle precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these

precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the

following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Note

● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.

Memo

● The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the

needle.

● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the

machine.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.

Fabric Type/Application

Thread

Size of Needle

Type Size

Medium weight

fabrics

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–90

75/11–90/14

Taffeta Synthetic thread

Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50

Thin fabrics

Lawn Cotton thread

60–90

65/9–75/11

Georgette Synthetic thread

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Thick fabrics

Denim Cotton thread

30 100/16

50

90/14–100/16

Corduroy Synthetic thread

50–60

Tweed Silk thread

Stretch fabrics

Jersey

Thread for knits 50–60

Ball point needle

75/11–90/14

(gold colored)

Tricot

Easily frayed fabrics

Cotton thread

50–90

65/9–90/14Synthetic thread

Silk thread 50

For top-stitching

Synthetic thread

Silk thread

30 100/16

50–60 75/11–90/14

CAUTION

32

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

■ Ball point needle

Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch

fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily

occur.

Use the ball point needle for best results when

sewing patterns using monogramming foot “N”.

The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR”

(Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT”

130/705H SUK 90/14 may be used as a substitute.

■ Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the

fabric or thread.

Checking the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous

since the needle may break while the machine is

being operated.

Before using the needle, place the flat side of the

needle on a flat surface and check that the distance

between the needle and the flat surface is even.

a Flat side

b Needle type marking

■ Correct needle

a Flat surface

■ Incorrect needle

If the distance between the needle and the flat

surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use

a bent needle.

a Flat surface

Replacing the needle

Replace the needle as described below. Use the

disc-shaped screwdriver and a needle that has been

determined to be straight according to the

instructions in “Checking the needle”.

a

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up. (With models

equipped with (needle position button),

raise the needle by pressing once or

twice.)

b

Turn off the sewing machine.

● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle

combinations are shown in the table on the

previous page. If the combination of the

fabric, thread and needle is not correct,

particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such

as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to

75/11), the needle may bend or break. In

addition, the stitching may be uneven or

puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

CAUTION

1

2

1

a Mark b Needle position button

● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn

off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries

may occur if the foot controller or the start/

stop button is accidentally pressed and the

machine starts sewing.

1

or

CAUTION

33

1

——

———————————————————————————————————————————

—

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

c

Lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

d

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then

use a disc-shaped screwdriver to turn the

needle clamp screw counterclockwise to

remove the needle.

Note

● The needle can be removed by simply

loosening the needle clamp screw about

one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is

loosened too much, the needle clamp

(which holds the needle) may fall off.

Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp

screw too much.)

a Disc-shaped screwdriver

b Needle clamp screw

• Do not apply strong force when loosening or

tightening the needle clamp screw,

otherwise certain parts of the sewing

machine may be damaged.

e

With the flat side of the needle toward the

rear of the machine, insert the needle until it

touches the needle stopper.

a Needle stopper

f

While holding the needle with your left hand,

use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten the

needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.

Install the twin needle in the same way.

● Before replacing the needle, place fabric or

paper under the presser foot to prevent the

needle from falling into the hole in the needle

plate.

CAUTION

● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches

the needle stopper and securely tighten the

needle clamp screw with the disc-shaped

screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break

or damage may result.

CAUTION

34

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Sewing with the twin needle

We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same

color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.

For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 82).

a

Install the twin needle.

• For details on installing a needle, refer to

“Replacing the needle” (page 32).

b

Thread the upper thread for the left needle.

• For details, refer to steps

a through l of

“Upper threading” (page 25).

c

Manually thread the left needle with the

upper thread.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

from the front to the back.

d

Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the

bobbin winder shaft.

e

Install the thread spool and thread the upper

thread.

Memo

● When setting the thread spool, set it so that

the thread winds off from the front of the

spool.

a Twin needle b Extra spool pin

● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles

could break, and damage the machine.

● Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.

● You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,

from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or

the machine may be damaged.

● Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may

be damaged.

CAUTION

a Bobbin winder shaft

b Extra spool pin

c Thread spool

35

1

——

———————————————————————————————————————————

—

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f

Thread the upper thread for the right side in

the same way that the upper thread for the

left side was threaded.

a Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to step h through k of

“Upper threading” (page 25).

g

Without passing the thread through the

needle bar thread guide, manually thread the

right needle.

Pass the thread through the eye of the needle

from the front to the back.

h

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details on changing the presser foot, refer

to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 36).

Note

Models equipped with a needle threader

● You cannot use the needle threader to

thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the

twin needle by hand, from front to back.

Using the needle threader may damage the

machine.

i

Turn on the sewing machine.

j

Select a stitch.

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to

“Selecting a stitch” (page 39).

• For details on the stitches that can be sewn

with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH

SETTINGS” (page 82).

k

Start sewing.

For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting

to sew” (page 41).

X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel

to each other.

Note

● When using the twin needle, the stitches

may become bunched together, depending

on the types of thread and fabric that are

used. If this occurs, increase the stitch

length. For details on adjusting the stitch

length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length

and width” (page 40).

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach

zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may

break or the machine may be damaged.

CAUTION

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn

the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle

does not touch the presser foot. If the needle

hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or

break.

● When changing the sewing direction, be sure

to raise the needle from the fabric, and then

raise the presser foot lever and turn the

fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the

machine may be damaged.

● Do not try turning the fabric with the twin

needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the

needle may break or the machine may be

damaged.

CAUTION

36

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT

Replacing the presser foot

Replace the presser foot as described below.

a

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up. (With models

equipped with (needle position button),

raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)

b

If the sewing machine has been turned on,

turn it off.

c

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

d

Press the black button at the back of the

presser foot holder to release the presser foot.

a Black button

b Presser foot holder

e

Place a different presser foot below the holder

so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the

shank in the holder.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating

the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to

be read.

a Presser foot holder

b Shank

c Pin

Note

● The presser foot to be used with each stitch

appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer

to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).

● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the

controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.

● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser

foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet

may cause an accident or injury.

CAUTION

a Mark b Needle position button

● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off

the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if

the foot controller or the start/stop button is

accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

or

CAUTION

37

1

——

———————————————————————————————————————————

—

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the

presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the

presser foot holder.

a Presser foot lever

b Presser foot holder

c Shank

d Pin

X The presser foot is attached.

g

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the

presser foot is securely attached.

Removing the presser foot

holder

Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the

sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that

does not use the presser foot holder, such as the

quilting foot. Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to

remove the presser foot holder.

a

Remove the presser foot.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 36).

b

Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to loosen the

presser foot holder screw.

a Disc-shaped screwdriver

b Presser foot holder

c Presser foot holder screw

■ Attaching the presser foot holder

a

Align the presser foot holder with the lower-

left side of the presser bar.

a Presser foot holder

b Presser bar

b

Hold the presser foot holder in place with your

right hand, and then tighten the screw using

the disc-shaped screwdriver in your left hand.

a Disc-shaped screwdriver

b Presser foot holder

c Presser foot holder screw

Note

●

If the presser foot holder is not correctly

installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

● Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot

holder screw, otherwise the presser foot

holder may fall off and the needle may strike

it, causing the needle to bend or break.

CAUTION

38

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

2 SEWING BASICS

SEWING

Basic sewing operations are described below.

Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your

hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may

break.

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

1

Turn on the

machine.

Turn on the sewing machine.

For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Power supply” (page 14).

↓

2 Select the stitch.

Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.

For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).

↓

3

Attach the presser

foot.

Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.

For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 36).

↓

4 Start sewing.

Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the

threads.

For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 41).

CAUTION

39

2

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Selecting a stitch

Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired

stitch.

When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight

stitch ( left needle position) is selected.

a

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

Confirm that the utility stitch indicator is lit. If

it is not lit, press the utility stitch key to turn

on the utility stitch indicator.

a Utility stitch key

b Utility stitch indicator

c

Confirm that the desired stitch type number is

displayed on the LCD. If it is not, press the

utility stitch key once or more until the

desired stitch type number is displayed on the

LCD.

a Utility stitch key

b Stitch type number

d

Press (stitch selection keys). The

number of the selected stitch is displayed.

Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or

reduce the number by one. Pressing on the

right changes the digit on the right and pressing

on the left changes the digit on the left.

X The stitch is selected.

Memo

● The pattern numbers of the stitches are

displayed on the machine.

e

Attach the presser foot indicated in the LCD.

a Presser foot type

• For details, refer to

“Replacing the presser

foot” (page 36)

.

Memo

● The presser foot to be used is indicated by

the letter (J, A, etc.) that appears above or

beside the stitch number.

f

If necessary, adjust the stitch length and

width.

• For details on sewing with each of the stitches,

refer to the following example.

Stitch type

number

Stitch type

1 Utility stitches

2 Satin stitches

3 Mirror image stitches

a

b

a

40

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Adjusting the stitch length

and width

■ [Example] Selecting stitch .

a

Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 05.

With on the right, select “5”, and with

on the left, select “0”.

b

Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch

length adjustment key) to increase or reduce

the stitch length.

a Stitch length

b Stitch length adjustment key

c Short

d Long

c

Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch width

adjustment key) to increase or reduce the

stitch width.

a Stitch width

b Stitch width adjustment key

c Narrow

d Wide

Note

● When the stitch length or stitch width is

changed from the standard setting,

around or disappears from the LCD.

When the stitch length or stitch width is

reset back to the standard setting,

reappears around or in the LCD.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn

the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle

does not touch the presser foot. If the needle

hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or

break.

● If the stitches are bunched together, increase

the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the

stitches bunched together may result in the

needle bending or breaking.

CAUTION

41

2

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Starting to sew

a

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark

on the wheel points up. (With models equipped

with (needle position button), raise the

needle by pressing once or twice.)

b

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

c

Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass

the thread under the presser foot, and then

pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread

toward the rear of the machine.

a 5 cm (2 inches)

d

While holding the end of the thread and the

fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) with your

right hand to lower the needle to the starting

point of the stitching.

e

Lower the presser foot lever.

a Presser foot lever

f

On models equipped with a sewing speed

controller, slide the sewing speed controller

to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed.

Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models

equipped with the start/stop button)”

(page 15).

a Sewing speed controller

g

Slowly press down on the foot controller.

(With models equipped with (start/stop

button), if the foot controller is not connected,

press once.)

aStart/stop button

X The machine starts sewing.

a Mark b Needle position button

or

42

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

h

Take your foot off the foot controller, or press

(start/stop button) once (if the machine

was started by pressing (start/stop button))

(for models equipped with the start/stop

button).

X The machine stops sewing.

i

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up. (With models

equipped with (needle position button),

raise the needle by pressing once or

twice.)

This procedure is not necessary if the

needle stop position has been set to the

raised position (page 15).

j

Raise the presser foot lever.

k

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

and then pass the threads upward from below

through the thread cutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

Memo

● When the foot controller is plugged in, start/

stop button cannot be used to start sewing

(for models equipped with the start/stop

button).

●

When sewing is stopped, the needle remains

lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be

set so that the needle will stay up when

sewing is stopped. For details on setting the

machine so that the needles stay up when

sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the

needle stop position” (page 15).

■ Sewing reinforcement stitches

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag

stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,

pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)

sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top

of each other.

a Reverse stitching

b Reinforcement stitching

Memo

● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement

stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that

is selected. For details, refer to “STITCH

SETTINGS” (page 82).

1

43

2

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Thread tension

The thread tension will affect the quality of your

stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change

fabric or thread.

Memo

● We recommend that you do a test sample

on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

■ Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too

little tension will weaken your seams or cause

puckers on your fabric.

■ Upper tension is too tight

Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

Note

● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly

threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.

In this case, refer to

“Lower threading”

(page 22)

and rethread the bobbin thread.

Solution

Reduce the tension by turning the upper

tension-control dial to a lower number.

Memo

● When you finish sewing, remove the

bobbin cover and then make sure that the

thread is shown as below. If the thread is

not shown as below, the thread is not

inserted through the tension-adjusting

spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert

the thread correctly. For details, refer to

page 22, 23.

■ Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

Note

● If the upper thread was incorrectly

threaded, the upper thread may be too

loose. In this case, refer to

“Upper

threading” (page 25)

and rethread the upper

thread.

Solution

Increase the tension by turning the upper

tension-control dial to a higher number.

1

2

3

4

a Wrong side

b Surface

c Upper thread

d Lower thread

1

2

3

4

5

a Wrong side

b Surface

c Upper thread

d Lower thread

e Loops appear on

surface of fabric

4

3

5

1

2

3

4

5

a Wrong side

b Surface

c Upper thread

d Lower thread

e Loops appear on

wrong side of

fabric

4

3

5

44

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

USEFUL SEWING TIPS

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when

sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you select a stitch, the machine automatically

sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is

selected.

However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,

depending on the type of fabric and stitching being

sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.

For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread

that are the same as those used for your project, and

check the thread tension and stitch length and width.

Since the results differ depending on the type of

stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,

perform the trial sewing under the same conditions

that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing

direction

a

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

sewing machine.

Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the

needle was raised, lower the needle either by

turning the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle

position button) once (for models equipped

with the needle position button).

b

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

fabric.

Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

c

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

sewing.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing

direction to sew around the curve.

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag

stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain

a finer stitch.

Sewing thick fabrics

■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser

foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to

bring the presser foot to its highest position.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to raise

the needle before changing the sewing

direction. If the fabric is turned while the

needle is lowered, the needle may bend or

break.

CAUTION

45

2

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does

not feed at the beginning of stitching

The fabric may not feed when thick seams are

being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as

shown below. In this case, use the presser foot

locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag

foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level

while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed

smoothly.

a Sewing direction

a

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

Align the beginning of stitching, and then

position the fabric.

c

While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the

presser foot locking pin (black button on the

left side) pressed in, and lower the presser

foot lever.

a Presser foot locking pin (black button)

d

Release the presser foot locking pin (black

button).

X The presser foot remains level, allowing

the fabric to be fed.

• After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will

return to its original angle.

Sewing hook-and-loop

fastener tape

Note

● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric

and the hook-and-loop fastener tape.

Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-

and-loop fastener tape by turning the handwheel and

lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener

tape before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the

hook-and-loop fastener tape at a slow speed.

If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-

loop fastener tape, replace the needle with the

needle for thick fabrics (

page 31

).

a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is

sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much

force, the needle may bend or break.

● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop

fastener tape which is designed for sewing.

When glue adheres to the needle or the

bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.

● If the hook-and-loop fastener tape is sewn

with the thin needle (65/9 – 75/11), the

needle may bend or break.

CAUTION

46

SEWING BASICS —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become

misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly.

Move the needle (be to use a fine needle) to the

furthest left or righthand position so that the fabric

does not get pulled down into the feed dog area. If

this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material

under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.

When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess

paper.

a Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then

sew without stretching the fabric.

a Basting

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to

sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or

hard-to-reach areas.

a

Pull the flat bed attachment to the left to

release it.

a Flat bed attachment

X With the flat bed attachment removed,

free-arm sewing is possible.

• When sewing cylindrical pieces, follow the

next step.

Note

● When you are finished with free-arm

sewing, install the flat bed attachment back

in its original position.

b

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

arm, and then sew from the top.

47

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

3 UTILITY STITCHES

OVERCASTING STITCHES

You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also

useful for sewing stretch materials.

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Using zigzag foot

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 39).

c

Sew to the edge of the fabric.

a Needle drop point

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Zigzag stitch J 05 Overcasting and attaching appliqués

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

3-point zigzag

stitch

J06

Overcasting on medium weight or

stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,

darning, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Overcasting

stitch

G07

Overcasting on thin or medium

weight fabrics

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

G 08 Overcasting on thick fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

G09

Overcasting on thick fabrics and

decorative stitching

5.0 (3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

J 10 Overcasting on stretch fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J11

Overcasting on thick or stretch fab-

rics

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J12

Overcasting on stretch fabrics and

decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

48

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Using overcasting foot

a

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

b

Select stitch , or .

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 39).

c

Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric

against the guide of the presser foot, and then

lower the presser foot lever.

a Guide

d

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle

does not touch the presser foot.

e

Sew with the edge of the fabric against the

presser foot guide.

a Needle drop point

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn

the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle

does not touch the presser foot. If the needle

hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or

break.

a Check that the needle does not touch the

presser foot.

1

CAUTION

49

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

BASIC STITCHING

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Basic stitching

a

Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

b

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 39).

d

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

beginning of the stitching.

e

Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”

(page 41).

• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement

stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement

stitches” (page 42).

f

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”

(page 41).

■ Changing the needle position

With the straight stitch (left needle position) and

the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be

adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width

adjustment key moves the needle to the right;

pressing the “–” side of the stitch width

adjustment key moves the needle to the left.

a Stitch width

b Stitch width adjustment key

c Left needle position

d Right needle position

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Straight

Left

J00

Basic stitching, sewing gathers or

pintucks, etc.

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

J01

Basic stitching and sewing

gathers or pintucks

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Reinf.

Center

J02

Attaching zippers, basic stitching,

and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

Triple stretch

stitch

J03

Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams,

sewing stretch fabrics and decora-

tive stitching

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

50

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

BLIND HEM STITCHING

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.

Memo

● When selecting stitch or . Stitch numbers “0”, “-1”, “-2” or “-3” may be displayed on the LCD by

pressing “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the

left. Stitch numbers “0”, “1”, “2” or “3” may be displayed on the LCD by pressing “+” side of the stitch

width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the right.

● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the

fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.

a

Reverse the skirt or pants.

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

c Edge of fabric

d Bottom side

b

Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the

hem, and press.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Blind hem stitch

R13

Blind hem stitching on medium

weight fabrics

0 (0)

-3← →3

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

No No Reinf.

R14

Blind hem stitching on stretch fab-

rics

0 (0)

-3← →3

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

No No Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

2

1

3

4

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

c Edge of fabric

d Desired edge of hem

1

2

1

2

1

3

4

2

51

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

c

Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm

(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and

then baste it.

d

Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.

e

Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the

fabric with the wrong side facing up.

f

Attach blind hem foot “R”.

g

Select a stitch.

h

Remove the flat bed attachment and make

free-arm sewing possible.

• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to

“Stitching cylindrical pieces” (page 46).

i

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the

arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly,

and then start sewing.

a Arm

j

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

hem against the guide of the presser foot, and

then lower the presser foot lever.

a Wrong side of fabric

b Fold of hem

c Guide

k

Adjust the stitch width until the needle

slightly catches the fold of the hem.

a Needle drop point

When you change the needle drop point, raise

the needle, and then change the stitch width.

Stitch width

a Thick fabric

b Normal fabric

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

c Edge of fabric

d Desired edge of hem

e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

f Basting

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

c Edge of fabric

d Desired edge of hem

e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

f Basting

g Basting point

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

c Edge of fabric

d Desired edge of hem

e Basting point

f Basting

1

2

1

2

3

5

6

4

1

2

1

3

6

5

1

2

7

4

5

1

2

6

3

4

R

52

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

If the needle catches too much of the hem fold,

adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly

catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the

stitch width adjustment key.

■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold

If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust

the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches

the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width

adjustment key.

• For details on changing the stitch width,

refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).

l

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

presser foot guide.

m

Remove the basting stitching and turn the

fabric right side up.

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

1

2

a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric

1

2

53

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

BUTTONHOLE SEWING

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.

*Auto Reinf.: Automatic Reinforcement

The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).

Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Buttonhole stitch

A37

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and

medium weight fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A38

Secured buttoholes for fabrics that

have backings

5.0 (3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A39

Buttonholes for stretch or knit fab-

rics

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

1.0 (1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A 40 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

1.5 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A 41 Bound buttonholes

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A42

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or

furry fabrics

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A43

Keyhole buttonholes for medium

weight and thick fabrics

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

A44

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or

furry fabrics

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

Zigzag stitch

(for quilting)

J49

Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilt-

ing, satin stitching, button sewing

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

No Yes

Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

1

a Reinforcement stitching

54

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is

used to create buttonholes, are indicated below.

a Button guide plate

b Presser foot scale

c Pin

d Marks on buttonhole foot

e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

a

Use chalk to mark the position and length of

the buttonhole on the fabric.

a Marks on fabric

b Buttonhole sewing

b

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole

foot “A”, and then insert the button that will

be put through the buttonhole.

X The size of the buttonhole is set.

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide

plate

Add together the diameter and thickness of

the button, and then set the button guide

plate to the calculated length. (The distance

between the markings on the presser foot

scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

a Presser foot scale

b Length of buttonhole

(Diameter + thickness of button)

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm

(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),

the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm

(1 inch) on the scale.

a 10 mm (3/8 inch)

b 15 mm (9/16 inch)

c

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

d

Select a stitch.

e

Pass the upper thread down through the hole

in the presser foot.

A

1

2

5

3

4

1

2

A

1

3

2

1

2

55

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f

Position the fabric with the front end of the

buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks

on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then

lower the presser foot lever.

a Mark on fabric

b Red marks on buttonhole foot

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push

in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the

buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct

size.

a Do not reduce the gap.

g

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

possible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the

bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever

b Bracket

h

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

your left hand, and then start sewing.

Note

● If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric

does not feed, sew with the coarser (longer)

stitch.

X Once sewing is completed, the

machine automatically sews

reinforcement stitches, then stops.

i

Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,

remove the fabric, and cut the thread.

j

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

position.

A

1

2

56

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

k

Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole

stitching to prevent the stitching from being

cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards

the pin and open the buttonhole.

a Seam ripper

b Pin

For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial

eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded

end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam

ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

a Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick

paper or some other protective sheet under

the fabric before punching the hole in the

fabric.

Memo

● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch

length and width by sewing a trial

buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a

gimp thread.

a

Hook the gimp thread onto the part of

buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration

so that it fits into the grooves, and then

loosely tie it.

b

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

Select a stitch or .

d

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

gimp thread.

e

Lower the presser foot lever and the

buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

f

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

thread to remove any slack.

g

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and

then tie it.

h

With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the

gimp thread remaining at the top end of the

buttonhole.

Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam

ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting

path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam

ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any

other way than how it is intended.

1

2

1

CAUTION

57

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.

Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

a

Measure the distance between the holes in the

button to be attached.

b

Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the

feed dog position lever, located at the rear of

the machine on the base, to (to the right

as seen from the front of the machine).

a Feed dog position lever

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

c

Attach presser foot “M”.

a Button fitting foot “M”

d

Place a button between the presser foot and

the fabric.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew

the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the

button so that the needle goes into the two

holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,

and then sew them in the same way.

e

Select a stitch . (With models not provided

with stitch , select stitch .)

f

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

the distance between the holes in the button.

g

Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by

pressing the stitch length adjustment key.

1

58

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

h

Turn the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) to check that the needle

correctly goes into the two holes of the

button.

Adjust the stitch width to the distance between

the button holes.

i

Start sewing.

• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low

speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch

button) to sew reinforcement stitches.

j

Pull the upper thread at the end of the

stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and

then tie it with the bobbin thread.

Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the

bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

k

When you are finished attaching the button,

slide the feed dog position lever to (to

the left as seen from the front of the machine)

and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is

positioned at .

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does

not touch the button, otherwise the needle

may bend or break.

CAUTION

59

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

ZIPPER INSERTION

You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of

the needle.

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Place the two pieces of fabric with their right

sides facing each other.

c

Sew basic stitches to the end of the zipper

opening, and then sew reverse stitches at the

end of the stitching.

• Use basting stitching to sew the zipper

opening (where the zipper will be inserted).

a Basting stitching

b Reverse stitches

c Wrong side of fabric

d End of zipper opening

• Refer to “Basic stitching” on page 49.

d

Open the seam allowance, press it from the

wrong side of the fabric with an iron, align the

center of the zipper with the stitching, and

then baste the zipper in place.

a Wrong side of fabric

b Wrong side of fabric

c Basting stitching

d Zipper

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Straight stitch

(center)

I02

Attaching zippers, basic stitching,

and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

60

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

e

Attach the presser foot holder to the right side

of the pin on zipper foot “I”.

a Pin on the right side

b Needle drop point

f

Select stitch .

g

With the right side of the fabric facing up,

continue sewing with the zipper on the right

side of the presser foot.

a Stitching

b Right side of fabric

c Basting stitching

d End of zipper opening

Sew the stitching in order, from a to c.

Memo

● If the presser foot contacts the zipper slider,

leave the needle lowered (in the fabric) and

raise the presser foot. After moving the

slider so it will not contact the presser foot,

lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

● To sew with the zipper on the left side of the

presser foot, attach the presser foot holder

to the left side of the pin on zipper foot “I”

in step

e.

a Left side of the pin

b Needle drop point

h

When you have finished sewing, remove the

basting stitching.

● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the

needle does not hit the presser foot before

you start sewing. If you choose a different

stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and

break the needle. You may also be injured.

I

CAUTION

● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper

during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper,

the needle may break and you may be injured.

CAUTION

I

61

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select stitch .

c

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a

piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that

of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary

that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

a

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

fabric.

Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points

to make sure that the tape is uniformly

positioned on the fabric.

a Elastic tape

b Pin

b

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select a stitch.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Stretch stitch J04

Sewing stretch fabrics and decora-

tive stitching

1.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

3-point

zigzag stitch

J06

Overcasting on medium weight or

stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,

darning, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Elastic-attaching

stitch

J 24 Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

1

2

62

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

d

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

stretching the tape so that it is the same length

as the fabric.

While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot

with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin

nearest the front of the presser foot with your

right hand.

● When sewing, be sure that the needle does

not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may

bend or break.

CAUTION

63

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Zigzag stitch J 05 Overcasting and attaching appliqués

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

Zigzag stitch

(for quilting)

J49

Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilt-

ing, satin stitching

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

No Yes Reinf.

Appliqué stitch J 15 Appliqué stitching

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Appliqué stitch

(for quilting)

J 50 Attaching appliqués and binding

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

1.8 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

J 51 Attaching appliqués and binding

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

1.8 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Piecing straight

stitch

J46

Piecing straight stitching (with a

seam allowance of 6.5mm from the

right edge of the presser foot)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

No Yes Reinf.

J47

Piecing straight stitching (with a

seam allowance of 6.5mm from the

left edge of the presser foot)

1.5 (1/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

No Yes Reinf.

Joining stitch

J18

Patchwork stitching and decorative

stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J19

Patchwork stitching, decorative

stitching and sewing overcasting on

both pieces of fabrics, such as with

tricot

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J20

Patchwork stitching and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Hand-look

quilting

J48

Straight stitch quilting that looks

hand-sewn

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Quilting

stippling

J52

Quilting background stitching (stip-

pling)

7.0 (1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

64

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Appliqués

You can create an appliqué by cutting a different

piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a

decoration.

a

Baste the cut design to the fabric.

b

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select stitch .

d

Sew along the edge of the fabric with the

needle dropping off the edge at the right.

a Appliqué fabric

b Needle drop point

e

Remove the basting, if necessary.

Memo

● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the

beginning and the end of stitching.

Patchwork (crazy quilt)

stitching

a

Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and

place it over the lower piece.

b

Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the

pattern spans both pieces.

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called

“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a

6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.

Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from

either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

a

Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the

fabric that you wish to piece together.

b

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select stitch or

.

● If glue is used to hold the cut design in place

on the fabric, do not apply glue to areas that

will be sewn with the machine. If glue is

attached to the needle or race, the machine

may be damaged.

CAUTION

● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin

during sewing, as the needle can break. You

may also be injured.

CAUTION

65

3

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned

with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the right side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

■ For a seam allowance on the left side

Align the left side of the presser foot with the

edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Memo

● To change the width of the seam allowance

(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.

For details, refer to “Changing the needle

position” (page 49).

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom

layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily

be sewn using the optional walking foot and the

optional quilting guide.

Note

● Only use the walking foot with straight or

zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.

Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the

walking foot.

Models equipped with a needle threader

● Thread the needle manually when using the

walking foot, or only attach the walking foot

after threading the needle using the needle

threader.

a

Baste the fabric to be quilted.

b

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

foot holder” (page 37).

c

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

onto the needle clamp screw, lower the

presser foot lever, and then use the presser

foot holder screw to attach the walking foot

to the presser bar.

a Connecting fork

b Needle clamp screw

c Presser foot holder screw

d

Select stitch , or .

e

Place one hand on each side of the presser

foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while

sewing.

Note

● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at

a speed between slow and medium.

1

● Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten

the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the

needle may strike the presser foot and cause

injury.

● Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the

front of the machine to check that the needle

does not strike the presser foot. If the needle

strikes the presser foot, injury may result.

CAUTION

66

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

■ Using the optional quilting guide

Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that

are equally spaced.

a

Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the

hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser

foot holder.

 Walking foot

 Presser foot holder

b

Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that

the guide aligns with the seam that has

already been sewn.

Free-motion quilting

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be

lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that

the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.

The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion

quilting.

Note

Models equipped with a needle threader

● Thread the needle manually when using the

quilting foot, or only attach the quilting foot

after threading the needle using the needle

threader.

a

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot

holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

foot holder” (page 37).

b

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side

of the presser bar.

The pin on the quilting foot should be

positioned over the needle clamp screw.

a Pin on quilting foot

b Presser foot holder screw

c Needle clamp screw

67

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

c

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder

screw using the disc-shaped screwdriver in

your left hand.

a Presser foot holder screw

d

Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the

rear of the machine on the base, to (to

the right as seen from the front of the machine).

a Feed dog position lever

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

X The feed dogs are lowered.

e

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a

stitch.

f

Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then

move the fabric to follow the pattern.

Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the

beginning and end of sewing.

a Pattern

g

After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog

position lever to (to the left as seen from

the front of the machine) and turn the

handwheel to raise the dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is

positioned at .

● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with

the disc-shaped screwdriver, otherwise the

needle may touch the presser foot, causing it

to bend or break.

CAUTION

68

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

REINFORCEMENT STITCHING

Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

*Auto Reinf.: Automatic Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Triple stretch stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes

and inseams.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select stitch .

c

Start sewing.

• For details, refer to “Starting to sew”

(page 41).

Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to

strain, such as pocket corners and openings.

As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at

pocket corners is described below.

a

Determine the desired length of the bar tack.

Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot

“A” to the desired length. (The distance

between the markings on the presser foot scale

is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

a Presser foot scale

b Length of bar tack

c 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• A bar tack with a maximum length of about

28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn.

b

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c

Select stitch .

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Triple stretch

stitch

J03

Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams,

sewing stretch fabrics and decora-

tive stitching

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Bar tack stitch A45

Reinforcing openings and areas

where the seam easily comes loose

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.4 (1/64)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

*

Auto

Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

CAUTION

1

2

3

69

3

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d

Position the fabric so that the opening of the

pocket faces toward you, and then lower the

presser foot lever so that the needle drops

2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket

opening.

a 2 mm (1/16 inch)

Pass the upper thread down through the hole

in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push

in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the

bar tack will not be sewn with the correct

size.

a Do not reduce the gap.

e

Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

possible.

a Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the

bracket on the buttonhole foot.

a Buttonhole lever

b Bracket

f

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the

machine automatically sews

reinforcement stitches, then stops.

g

Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,

remove the fabric, and cut the thread.

h

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

position.

Memo

● If the fabric does not feed, for example,

because it is too thick, increase the stitch

length. For details, refer to “Selecting a

stitch” (page 39).

1

70

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

DECORATIVE STITCHING

Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Fagoting stitch

J22

Fagoting, smocking and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J23

Fagoting, smocking and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Joining stitch

J18

Patchwork stitching and decorative

stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J19

Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching

and sewing overcasting on both pieces

of fabrics, such as with tricot

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J20

Patchwork stitching and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Shell tuck stitch J 16 Shell tuck stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Smocking stitch J21

Smocking stitching and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Satin scallop

stitch

N 17 Scallop stitching

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Decorative stitch

J 25 Decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

3.0 (1/8)

2.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

J 26 Decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J 27 Decorative stitching

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

N

28

Decorative stitching and elastic-

attaching

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/64–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

*

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

N29

Lace sewing, decorative hemming,

heirloom stitching, etc.

3.5 (1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N30

Decorative hemming, heirloom

stitching, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.0 (1/8)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N31

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N32

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N33

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

71

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Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It

is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch

is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

a

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric

along their seams.

b

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by

about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or

a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

• If you draw a line down the middle of the

thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer,

sewing is easier.

a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer

b Basting stitching

c 4 mm (3/16 inch)

c

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

Select stitch or .

e

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 39).

f

Sew with the center of the presser foot

aligned along the center of the two pieces of

fabric.

g

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

Decorative stitch

N34

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N35

Decorative stitching, smocking

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N36

Decorative stitching, smocking

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if

the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

CAUTION

1

2

3

72

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Scallop stitching

The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like

shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars

of blouses and to decorate the edges of

handkerchiefs.

a

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

b

Select stitch .

c

Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making

sure not to sew directly on the edge of the

fabric.

• For better results, apply spray starch onto the

fabric and press with a hot iron before it is

sewn.

d

Trim along the stitches.

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or

embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is

used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.

The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to

fabric.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the

stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen

the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 39) and “Thread tension” (page 43).

c

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 10 mm

(3/8 inch).

a 10 mm (3/8 inch)

• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or

cut the thread.

d

Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.

Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

e

Select stitch or .

f

Stitch between the straight stitches.

g

Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

1

73

3

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell

tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of

blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

a

Fold the fabric along the bias.

b

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c

Select stitch , and then increase the thread

tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”

(page 39).

d

Sew while making sure that the needle drops

slightly off the edge of the fabric.

a Needle drop point

e

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks

down to one side.

Joining

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the

seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when

making a crazy quilt.

a

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

b

Sew together the right sides of the two pieces

of fabric, and then open up the seam

allowances.

a Wrong side of fabric

b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance

c Straight stitch

c

Select stitch , or .

d

Turn the fabric over so that the right side

faces up, and then sew over the seam with the

center of the presser foot aligned with the

seam.

a Right side of fabric

1

2

3

74

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Heirloom stitching

When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes

are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.

This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin

or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave

fabrics.

a

Insert the wing needle.

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.

• For details on inserting a needle, refer to

“Replacing the needle” (page 32).

b

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

c

Select stitch , , , , , ,

or

.

d

Start sewing.

● The needle threader cannot be used with the

wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine

may be damaged. Manually pass the thread

through the eye of the needle from the front

to the back. For details, refer to “Upper

threading” (page 25).

● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)

or less, otherwise the needle may bend or

break.

● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn

the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle

does not touch the presser foot. If the needle

hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or

break.

CAUTION

75

3

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches)

55 characters can be sewn by following the procedure below.

Sewing beautiful patterns

In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following

must be considered.

■ Fabric

Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics

with a coarse weave, affix stabilizer material to

the wrong side of the fabric or place a thin sheet

of paper, such as tracing paper, under the fabric.

Since material puckering or bunched stitches may

occur when satin stitches are sewn, be sure to

affix stabilizer material to the fabric.

■ Needles and threads

When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch

fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing

thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine

needle. In addition, #50 to #60 thread should be

used.

■ Trial sewing

Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric

being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material

is used, the desired result may not be achieved.

Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before sewing

your project. In addition, while sewing, be sure to

guide the fabric with your hands in order to

prevent the fabric from slipping.

76

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Selecting characters

■ Selecting a character

[Example] Selecting stitch “C” (No. 03).

a

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

Confirm that the character stitch indicator is

lit. If it is not lit, press the character stitch key

to turn on the character stitch indicator.

a Character stitch key

b Character stitch indicator

Memo

● When you select a character, check that

there are no characters in memory.

a This indicator shows that no character is stored.

If there are any characters in memory,

delete them. (For details, refer to “Deleting

characters”

(page 79)

.)

c

Confirm that the desired stitch type number is

displayed on the LCD. If it is not, press the

character stitch key once or more until the

desired stitch type number is displayed on the

LCD.

a Character stitch key

b Stitch type number

d

Press (stitch selection keys) to select

pattern No. 03.

• For details, refer to step

d of

“Selecting a

stitch” (page 39)

.

e

Press the “+” side of (stitch width

adjustment key) to enter the selected

character.

a Stitch width adjustment key

X The following display is shown on the

LCD.

a Selected pattern No.

b The position of the selected pattern No.

c The total number of entered characters

f

Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD.

a The presser foot to use

• For details, refer to

“Replacing the presser

foot” (page 36)

.

g

If you would like to only sew this single

character, start sewing.

If you would like to sew a sequence of

characters, see the following procedure.

• For details on sewing characters, refer to

“Sewing the character stitches” (page 79).

Stitch type

number

Stitch type

1 Character stitches (Gothic font)

2 Character stitches (Script font)

3 Character stitches (Outline style)

a

b

a

77

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ Combining characters

You can easily sew names, messages, etc. by

combining the character stitches. Up to 35

characters can be combined.

[Example] Selecting stitches “COME”

(No. 03)+(No. 15)+(No. 13)+(No. 05)

a

Follow steps a through f in “Selecting a

character” (page 76) to select the first

character “C” (No. 03).

b

Press (stitch selection keys) to select the

next character, “O” (No. 15).

c

Press the “+” side of (stitch width

adjustment key) to enter the selected

character.

a Stitch width adjustment key

d

Repeat steps b and c to add “M” (No. 13)

and “E” (No. 05).

Memo

● To enter a space, select “_” (No. 30).

e

When you have finished combining

characters, check the entered characters and

their order.

• For details on checking characters, refer to

“Checking characters” (page 79).

Memo

● A new character can only be added next to

the last character. You cannot insert a new

character between characters or before the

first character of the sequence.

f

After checking the entered characters, start

sewing.

• For details on sewing characters, refer to

“Sewing the character stitches” (page 79).

Memo

● The combination of characters will be

stored in memory even if you turn off the

machine.

78

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

■ Adding new characters after sewing

After sewing a combination of characters, you

can add characters to the combination using the

following method.

Memo

● When you have finished sewing, the pattern

No. of the first character in the current

combination is shown on the LCD.

a

Press the utility stitch key.

(Do not skip this step.)

a Utility Stitch key

b

Press the character stitch key and confirm that

the character stitch indicator is lit.

a Character stitch key

b Character stitch indicator

c

If necessary, press the character stitch key

once or more to select the desired stitch type

(until the target stitch type number is

displayed on the LCD.)

a Character stitch key

b Stitch type number

d

Add new characters by following the

procedure described in “Combining

characters” (page 77).

X New characters are added next to the

last character of the combination.

■ Making a new combination of characters after

sewing

Memo

● When you have finished sewing, the pattern

No. of the first character in the current

combination is shown on the LCD.

a

Select the first character of the new

combination.

b

Press the “+” side of (stitch width

adjustment key).

a Stitch width adjustment key

X The old combination of characters is

cleared from memory, and the pattern

No. shown in the LCD is entered as the

first character of a new combination.

c

Add characters by following the procedure

described in “Combining characters”

(page 77).

a

b

a

79

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Checking characters

You can check the characters in a combination with

following method.

a

Press the “+” or “-” side of (stitch length

adjustment key) repeatedly.

This will display the characters that have been

entered one by one on the LCD.

You can check the pattern No. and position of

each character.

a Stitch length adjustment key

b The position of the selected pattern No.

c The total number of characters in the

combination

d Selected pattern No.

Deleting characters

You can delete characters from the combination.

a

Press “-” side of (stitch width

adjustment key) to delete the last character in

the combination.

a Stitch width adjustment key

X The last character will be deleted.

Memo

● Repeat step a to delete more characters.

● You can only delete the last character in a

combination.

Sewing the character stitches

All character stitches are sewn with monogramming

foot “N”.

a

Select a character stitch.

• For details, refer to “Selecting characters”

(page 76).

b

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 36).

c

Start sewing.

X The stitch is sewn in the direction

indicated by the arrow.

Memo

● When sewing characters, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches

for each character.

● While sewing, the LCD shows the pattern

No. currently being sewn.

d

When you have finished sewing, use scissors

to trim off any excess threads at the beginning

of the stitching and between the characters.

80

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches)

Your stitch pattern may sometimes turn out poorly, depending on the type or thickness of fabric, the stabilizer

material used, sewing speed, etc. If your sewing does not turn out well, sew trial stitches using the same

conditions as the real sewing, and adjust the stitch pattern as shown below.

Memo

● The character stitches “034” (No. 31 + No.

34+ No. 35) are used for making

adjustments.

a

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 36).

b

Combine the character stitches “034” (No. 31

+ No. 34 + No. 35).

• For details, refer to “Combining characters”

(page 77).

X When you have finished creating the

combination, the following is displayed

on the LCD.

c

Sew the combination of characters and check

how it turns out.

• For details, refer to “Sewing the character

stitches” (page 79).

A: Correctly sewn

(with proper spaces between characters)

B: Bunched or shapeless

(There is no space between characters.)

C: Overstretched

(The stitch “0” has a gap.)

If the pattern you sewed does not look like A,

use the following steps to adjust the stitches.

d

Select No. 59 (for making adjustments).

X The LCD goes into the stitch adjustment

mode. The total number of combined

characters (1) changes to

“--“.

e

Adjust the character stitches by pressing

(stitch length adjustment key).

Each press of “+” or “-” side of (stitch

length adjustment key) widens or narrows the

stitches.

a No. for making adjustments

b The stitch adjustment level

c Widens the stitches

d Narrows the stitches

 If the pattern is bunched (B)

Press the “+” side of (stitch length

adjustment key) to widen the stitch.

 If the pattern is overstretched

(The stitch “0” has a gap.) (C)

Press the “-” side of (stitch length

adjustment key) to narrow the stitch.

Memo

● The stitch adjustment level can be set

between -9 and 9.

● The setting is saved in memory even if you

turn off the machine.

A

B

C

81

3

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

f

Sew the characters “034” again.

Memo

● You can sew when you are in the stitch

adjustment mode.

If the stitch pattern still comes out poorly,

adjust the stitch again. Adjust the stitch until

the stitch pattern comes out correctly.

g

After you have finished adjusting the pattern,

press the stitch category selection key three

times.

X The display returns to the normal

character stitching mode.

82

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

4 APPENDIX

STITCH SETTINGS

Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility and mirror

image stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

● When using the twin needle, select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle

may break or the machine may be damaged.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the

machine may be damaged.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Straight

Left

J00

Basic stitching, sewing gathers or

pintucks, etc.

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

J01

Basic stitching and sewing

gathers or pintucks

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Reinf.

Center

J02

Attaching zippers, basic stitching,

and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

Triple stretch

stitch

J03

Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams,

sewing stretch fabrics and

decorative stitching

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Stretch stitch J04

Sewing stretch fabrics and

decorative stitching

1.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Zigzag stitch J 05 Overcasting and attaching appliqués

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

*

Yes

Rev.

3-point zigzag

stitch

J06

Overcasting on medium weight or

stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,

darning, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Overcasting

stitch

G07

Overcasting on thin or medium

weight fabrics

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

G 08 Overcasting on thick fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–5.0

(3/32–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

G09

Overcasting on thick fabrics and

decorative stitching

5.0 (3/16)

3.5–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

CAUTION

*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

83

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Overcasting

stitch

J 10 Overcasting on stretch fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J11

Overcasting on thick or stretch

fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J12

Overcasting on stretch fabrics and

decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Blind hem stitch

R13

Blind hem stitching on medium

weight fabrics

0 (0)

-3← →3

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

No No Reinf.

R14

Blind hem stitching on stretch

fabrics

0 (0)

-3← →3

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.5

(1/16–1/8)

No No Reinf.

Appliqué stitch J 15 Appliqué stitching

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Shell tuck stitch J 16 Shell tuck stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Satin scallop

stitch

N 17 Scallop stitching

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Joining stitch

J18

Patchwork stitching and decorative

stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J19

Patchwork stitching, decorative

stitching and sewing overcasting on

both pieces of fabrics, such as with

tricot

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J20

Patchwork stitching and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.2 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Smocking stitch J21

Smocking stitching and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Fagoting stitch

J22

Fagoting, smocking and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J23

Fagoting, smocking and decorative

stitching

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Elastic-attaching

stitch

J 24 Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Decorative stitch

J 25 Decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

3.0 (1/8)

2.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

J 26 Decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J 27 Decorative stitching

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

84

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Decorative stitch

N

28

Decorative stitching and elastic-

attaching

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/64–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

N29

Lace sewing, decorative hemming,

heirloom stitching, etc.

3.5 (1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N30

Decorative hemming, heirloom

stitching, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.0 (1/8)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N31

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

3.5 (1/8)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N32

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N33

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N34

Decorative hemming on thin,

medium weight and plain weave

fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

1.5–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N35

Decorative stitching, smocking

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N36

Decorative stitching, smocking

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Buttonhole stitch

A37

Horizontal buttonholes on thin and

medium weight fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A38

Secured buttonholes for fabrics that

have backings

5.0 (3/16)

3.0–5.0

(1/8–3/16)

0.5 (1/32)

0.2–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A39

Buttonholes for stretch or knit

fabrics

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

1.0 (1/16)

0.5–2.0

(1/32–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A 40 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics

6.0 (15/64)

3.0–6.0

(1/8–15/64)

1.5 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A 41 Bound buttonholes

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–6.0

(0–15/64)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A42

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or

furry fabrics

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A43

Keyhole buttonholes for medium

weight and thick fabrics

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

A44

Keyhole buttonholes for thick or

furry fabrics

7.0 (1/4)

3.0–7.0

(1/8–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

Bar tack stitch A45

Reinforcing openings and areas

where the seam easily comes loose

2.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

0.4 (1/64)

0.3–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

No No

***

Auto

Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. ***Auto Reinf.:Automatic Reinforcement

85

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Piecing straight

stitch

J46

Piecing straight stitching (with a seam

allowance of 6.5mm from the right

edge of the presser foot)

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

No Yes Reinf.

J47

Piecing straight stitching (with a

seam allowance of 6.5mm from the

left edge of the presser foot)

1.5 (1/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–5.0

(1/64–3/16)

No Yes Reinf.

Hand-look

quilting

J48

Straight stitch quilting that looks

hand-sewn

0.0 (0)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Zigzag stitch

(for quilting)

J49

Appliqué quilting, freemotion

quilting, satin stitching, button

sewing

3.5 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.0–4.0

(0–3/16)

No Yes Reinf.

Appliqué stitch

(for quilting)

J 50 Attaching appliqués and binding

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

1.8 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

J 51 Attaching appliqués and binding

1.5 (1/16)

0.5–3.5

(1/32–1/8)

1.8 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Quilting

stippling

J52

Quilting background stitching

(stippling)

7.0 (1/4)

1.0–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Decorative stitch

N53

Decorative stitching, smocking

stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.

2.5 (3/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 54 For decoration, etc.

3.0 (1/8)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 55 For decoration, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 56 For decoration, etc.

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 57 For decoration, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 58 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 59 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 60 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 61 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 62 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 63 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

86

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Decorative stitch

N 64 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 65 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 66 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 67 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 68 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 69 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 70 For decoration, etc.

2.5 (3/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 71 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 72 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 73 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 74 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 75 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 76 For decoration, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 77 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 78 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 79 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 80 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

87

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Decorative stitch

N 81 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 82 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

Cross-stitches

N 83 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 84 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 85 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 86 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 87 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 88 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 89 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 90 For decoration, etc. - - No No Reinf.

N 91 For decoration, etc. - - No No Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

88

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Decorative satin

stitches

N 92 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 93 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 94 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 95 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 96 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 97 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 98 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 99 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

89

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Satin stitches

Presser foot: N

Application: For decoration, etc.

Stitch Width [mm (inch)]

Auto: 7.0 (1/4)

Manual: 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)

Stitch Length [mm (inch)]

Auto: 0.4 (1/64)

Manual: 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16)

Twin Needle: **Yes (J)

Walking Foot: No

Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching: Reinforcement

*: Pattern Length Icon definition

**: Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Pattern

Length*

Pattern No.

Pattern

00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47

48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63

64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79

Shorter Longer

(Standard)

90

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Mirror image stitches

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

Stretch stitch J00

Sewing stretch fabrics

and decorative stitching

1.0 (1/16)

1.0–3.0

(1/16–1/8)

2.5 (3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Overcasting

stitch

J01

Overcasting on stretch

fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J02

Overcasting on thick or stretch

fabrics

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.5–4.0

(1/32–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

J03

Overcasting on stretch fabrics and

decorative stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

4.0 (3/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Appliqué

stitch

J 04 Appliqué stitching

3.5 (1/8)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Shell tuck

stitch

J 05 Shell tuck stitching

4.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Satin scallop

stitch

N 06 Scallop stitching

5.0 (3/16)

2.5–7.0

(3/32–1/4)

0.5 (1/32)

0.1–1.0

(1/64–1/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

Decorative

stitch

J 07 Decorative stitching

5.5 (7/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

**

Yes

( J )

No Reinf.

N08

Lace sewing, decorative

hemming, heirloom

stitching, etc.

3.5 (1/8)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

1.6–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 09 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 10 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 11 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 12 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 13 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 14 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

91

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Decorative

stitch

N 15 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 16 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 17 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 18 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 19 For decoration, etc.

5.0 (3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 20 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 21 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.0 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 22 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5 (3/32)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 23 For decoration, etc.

7.0 (1/4)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 24 For decoration, etc.

6.0 (15/64)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.4 (1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

No No Reinf.

N 25 For decoration, etc. - - No No Reinf.

N 26 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 27 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 28 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

N 29 For decoration, etc. -

0.3 (1/64)

0.2–0.4

(1/64–1/64)

No No Reinf.

Stitch Name

Pattern

Presser Foot

Pattern

No.

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Twin Needle

Walking Foot

Reverse

(

Rev.

)

/

Reinforcement

(

Reinf.

)

Stitching

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

92

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Presser foot: N

Application: For decoration, etc.

Stitch Width [mm (inch)]

Auto: 7.0 (1/4)

Manual: 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)

Stitch Length [mm (inch)]

Auto: 0.4 (1/64)

Manual: 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16)

Twin Needle: **Yes (J)

Walking Foot: No

Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching: Reinforcement

*: Pattern Length Icon definition

**: Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.

Pattern

Length*

Stitch

Name

Satin

stitches

Pattern No.

Pattern

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37

38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45

46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53

54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61

62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69

Shorter Longer

(Standard)

93

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Character stitches

Stitch Type

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Twin Needle

Stitch Width/

Stitch Length

Character stitches

(Gothic font)

N

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10

No -

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55

Stitch Type

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Twin Needle

Stitch Width/

Stitch Length

Character stitches

(Script font)

N

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10

No -

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55

94

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Stitch Type

Presser Foot

Pattern No.

Twin Needle

Stitch Width/

Stitch Length

Character stitches

(Outline style)

N

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10

No -

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55

95

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

MAINTENANCE

Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.

Restrictions on oiling

In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must

not be oiled by the user.

This machine was manufactured with the necessary

amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation,

making periodic oiling unnecessary.

If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the

handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop

using the machine, and contact your authorized

dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Precautions on storing the

machine

Do not store the machine in any of the locations

described below, otherwise damage to the machine

may result, for example, rust caused by condensation.

• Exposed to extremely high temperatures

• Exposed to extremely low temperatures

• Exposed to extreme temperature changes

• Exposed to high humidity or steam

• Near a flame, heater or air conditioner

• Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight

• Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments

Note

● In order to extend the life of this machine,

periodically turn it on and use it.

Storing this machine for an extended period

of time without using it may reduce its

efficiency.

Cleaning the machine

surface

If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a

cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and

then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning

it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry

cloth.

Cleaning the race

Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the

race therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.

a

Switch the machine off and unplug it.

b

Raise the needle and the presser foot.

c

Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle

clamp screw to remove the presser-foot

holder and the needle.

d

Slide the needle plate cover release toward

you to remove the needle plate cover.

a Needle plate cover

b Needle plate cover release

● Unplug the power supply cord before

cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an

electric shock may occur.

CAUTION

● Make sure you unplug the machine before

you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an

electric shock or be injured.

CAUTION

96

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

e

Remove the bobbin case.

Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

a Bobbin case

f

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

remove any dust from the race and its

surrounding area.

a Cleaning brush

b Race

Note

● Do not put oil on the race.

g

Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on

the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the

machine.

• Align the S and z marks.

a S mark

b z mark

c Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are

aligned before installing the bobbin case.

● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,

otherwise the upper thread may become

tangled, the needle may break or sewing

performance may suffer. For a new bobbin

case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your

nearest authorized service center.

● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case

properly, otherwise the needle may break.

CAUTION

97

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

h

As shown, insert the tab on the needle plate

cover into the hole in the needle plate, and

then correctly position of the needle plate

cover.

a Needle plate cover

b Tab

c Hole

• Check that the needle plate cover is flush

with the top surface of the machine.

i

From the front, slide the needle plate cover

back into position.

a Needle plate cover

● If the needle plate cover is not flush with the

surface of the machine as shown below,

remove the needle plate cover (step

d), and

then install it again (steps h and i). Sewing

while the needle plate cover is not flush with

the surface of the machine may cause the

needle plate cover to come off of the

machine, resulting in injuries if your fingers

touch the race.

CAUTION

98

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

TROUBLESHOOTING

If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.

You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the

latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://support.brother.com/

” .

If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Frequent troubleshooting topics

Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting topics are described below. Be sure to refer to this

before contacting us.

Upper thread tightened up

■ Symptom

• The upper thread appears as a single

continuous line.

• The lower thread is visible from the upper

side of the fabric. (Refer to the illustration

below.)

• The upper thread has tightened up, and

comes out when pulled.

• The upper thread has tightened up, and

wrinkles appear in the fabric.

• The upper thread tension is tight, and the

results do not change even after the thread

tension is adjusted.

a Lower side of fabric

b Lower thread visible from upper side of fabric

c Upper thread

d Upper side of fabric

e Lower thread

■ Cause

Incorrect lower threading

If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded, instead

of the appropriate tension being applied to the

lower thread, it is pulled through the fabric when

the upper thread is pulled up. For this reason, the

thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.

■ Remedy/check details

Correctly install the lower thread.

a

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.

c

Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that

the thread unwinds in the correct direction.

• Hold the bobbin with your right hand with

the thread unwinding to the left, and hold

the end of the thread with your left hand.

Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin

in the bobbin case.

If the bobbin is inserted with the thread

unwinding in the wrong direction, sewing will be

done with an incorrect thread tension.

■ Upper thread tightened up page 98

■ Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric page 99

■ Incorrect thread tension page 102

■ Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed page 103

■ Error message “E6” appears in the LCD page 107

99

4

——

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

d

While holding the bobbin in place with your

finger, pass the thread through the slit in the

needle plate.

• Hold down the bobbin with your right hand,

and then pull the end of the thread around

the tab with your left hand.

a Tab

b Hold down the bobbin with your right hand.

On models equipped with the quick-set bobbin,

pull the thread to pass it through the slit in the

needle plate, then cut it with the cutter.

c Slit

d Cutter

Sewing with the correct thread tension is possible

after the bobbin has been correctly installed in the

bobbin case.

Tangled thread on wrong

side of fabric

■ Symptom

• The thread becomes tangled on the lower

side of the fabric.

• After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made

and sewing cannot continue.

• Looking under the fabric, there is tangled

thread in the bobbin case.

■ Cause

Incorrect upper threading

If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the

upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be

firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes

tangled in the bobbin case, causing a rattling

noise.

■ Remedy/check details

Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the

upper threading.

a

Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be

removed, cut the thread with scissors.

• For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on

page 95.

b

Remove the upper thread from the machine.

c

Refer to the following steps to correct the

upper threading.

• If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin

case, refer to “Lower threading” (page 22)

and “Remedy/check details” in the section

“Upper thread tightened up” (page 98) to

correctly install the bobbin.

100

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

d

Raise the presser foot using the presser foot

lever.

a Presser foot lever

• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing

machine cannot be threaded correctly.

e

Raise the needle by turning the handwheel

toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up, or press

(needle position button) (for models

equipped with the needle position button)

once or twice to raise the needle.

a Mark

b Needle position button

f

Pull some thread off the spool, and then pass

the thread under the thread guide.

a Thread guide

g

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

from the back to the front.

Hold the thread with your right hand so that

there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,

and then pass the thread under the thread

guide cover with your left hand.

a Thread guide cover

h

Feed the upper thread as shown in the

illustration below.

or

101

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

i

Make sure you guide the thread through the

thread take-up lever from right to left as

shown in the illustration below.

Sewing is possible only if the thread is securely

hooked on the thread take-up lever.

a Thread take-up lever

• Make sure that the thread is securely hooked

on the thread take-up lever.

j

Put the thread behind the needle bar thread

guide above the needle.

The thread can easily be passed behind the

needle bar thread guide by holding the thread

in your left hand, then feeding the thread with

your right hand.

a Needle bar thread guide

k

Thread the needle according to steps m and

n in “Upper threading” (page 28) or steps b

through

i in “Using the needle threader (for

models equipped with the needle threader)”

(page 28).

1

102

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

Incorrect thread tension

■ Symptoms

• Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.

• Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric.

• Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric.

• Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric.

• Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.

■ Cause/remedy/check details

 Cause 1

The machine is not correctly threaded.

The lower threading is incorrect.

Return the upper tension-control dial to “4”,

and then refer to “Upper thread tightened up”

(page 98) to correct the threading.

<With symptoms 3 through 5 described

above>

The upper threading is incorrect.

Return the upper tension-control dial to “4”,

and then refer to “Tangled thread on wrong

side of fabric” (page 99) to correct the upper

threading.

 Cause 2

A needle and thread appropriate for the

fabric are not being used.

The sewing machine needle that should be

used depends on the type of fabric sewn and

the thread thickness.

If a needle and thread appropriate for the

fabric are not being used, the thread tension

will not be adjusted correctly, causing

wrinkles in the fabric or skipped stitches.

• Refer to “Needle types and their uses”

(page 31) to check that a needle and thread

appropriate for the fabric are being used.

 Cause 3

An appropriate setting on the upper tension-control dial is not selected.

Turn the upper tension-control dial to select an appropriate thread tension.

The appropriate thread tension differs according to the type of fabric and thread being used.

* Adjust the thread tension while test sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used in

your project.

Note

● If the upper threading and lower threading are incorrect, the thread tension cannot be adjusted

correctly, even by turning the upper tension-control dial. Check the upper threading and lower

threading first, and then adjust the thread tension.

• When the lower thread is visible from the

upper side of the fabric. Turn the upper

tension-control dial to a lower number

(toward the left). (Loosen the thread tension.)

• When the upper thread is visible from the

lower side of the fabric. Turn the upper

tension-control dial to a higher number

(toward the right). (Tighten the thread

tension.)

 Symptom 1  Symptom 3

a Lower side of fabric

b Lower thread visible from

upper side of fabric

c Upper thread

d Upper side of fabric

e Lower thread

f Upper thread visible from

lower side of fabric

4

3

5

4

3

5

103

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Fabric is caught in the

machine and cannot be

removed

If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and

cannot be removed, the thread may have become

tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure

described below to remove the fabric from the

machine. If the operation could not be completed

according to the procedure, instead of attempting to

complete it forcefully, contact your nearest

authorized service center.

■ Removing the fabric from the machine

a

Immediately stop the sewing machine.

b

Turn off the sewing machine.

c

Remove the needle.

If the needle is lowered into the fabric, turn the

handwheel away from you (clockwise) to raise

the needle out of the fabric, and then remove

the needle.

• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).

d

Remove the presser foot and presser foot

holder.

• Refer to “Replacing the presser foot”

(page 36) and “Removing the presser foot

holder” (page 37).

e

Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it.

If the fabric can be removed, remove it.

Continue with the following steps to clean the

race.

f

Remove the needle plate cover.

a Needle plate cover release

b Needle plate cover (front part)

g

Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove

the bobbin.

h

Remove the bobbin case.

If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove

them.

a Bobbin case

i

Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to

remove any dust from the race and its

surrounding area.

a Cleaning brush

b Race

If the fabric could be removed

Continue to step

p.

If the fabric could not be removed

Continue to step

j.

104

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

j

Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to

loosen the two screws on the needle plate.

Note

● Be careful not to drop the removed screws

in the machine.

k

Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any

tangled threads, and then remove the needle

plate.

Remove the fabric and threads from the needle

plate.

If the fabric cannot be removed, even after

completing these steps, contact your nearest

authorized service center.

l

Remove any threads in the race and around

the feed dogs.

m

Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.

n

Align the two screw holes in the needle plate

with the two holes at the needle plate

mounting base, and then fit the needle plate

onto the machine.

o

Lightly finger-tighten the screw on the right

side of the needle plate. Then, use the disc-

shaped screwdriver to firmly tighten the

screw on the left side. Finally, firmly tighten

the screw on the right side.

Turn the handwheel to check that the feed

dogs move smoothly and do not contact the

edges of the slots in the needle plate.

a Correct position of feed dogs

b Incorrect position of feed dogs

Note

● Be careful not to drop the removed screws

in the machine.

105

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

p

Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on

the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the

machine.

• Align the S and z marks.

a S mark

b z mark

c Bobbin case

• Make sure that the indicated points are

aligned before installing the bobbin case.

q

Attach the needle plate cover according to

steps h and i in “Cleaning the race”

(page 97).

r

Check the condition of the needle, and then

install it.

If the needle is in a poor condition, for

example, if it is bent, be sure to install a new

needle.

• Refer to “Checking the needle” (page 32)

and “Replacing the needle” (page 32).

Note

● After completing this procedure, continue

with the following procedure in “Checking

machine operations” to check that the

machine is operating correctly.

Memo

● Since the needle may have been damaged

when the fabric was caught in the machine,

we recommend replacing it with a new one.

● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,

otherwise the upper thread may become

tangled, the needle may break or sewing

performance may suffer. For a new bobbin

case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your

nearest authorized service center.

● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case

properly, otherwise the needle may break.

CAUTION

● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can

easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

CAUTION

106

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

■ Checking machine operations

If the needle plate has been removed, check

machine operations to confirm that installation

has been completed correctly.

a

Turn on the machine.

b

Select (middle needle position stitch).

Note

● Do not yet install the presser foot and

thread.

c

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise), and look from all sides to

check that the needle falls at the center of the

hole in the needle plate.

If the needle contacts the needle plate, remove

the needle plate, and then install it again,

starting with step

m in “Removing the fabric

from the machine” (page 104).

a Hole in the needle plate

b Handwheel

d

Select zigzag stitch . At this time, increase

the stitch length and width to their maximum

settings.

• For details on changing the settings, refer to

“Adjusting the stitch length and width”

(page 40).

e

Slowly turn the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) and check that the needle

bar and feed dogs operate correctly.

If the needle or feed dogs contact the needle

plate, the machine may be malfunctioning;

therefore, contact your nearest authorized

service center.

f

Turn off the machine, and then install the

bobbin and presser foot.

• Refer to “Lower threading” (page 22) and

“Replacing the presser foot” (page 36).

g

Correctly thread the machine.

• For details on threading the machine, refer to

“Upper threading” (page 25).

Note

● The thread may have become tangled as a

result of incorrect upper threading. Make

sure that the machine is correctly threaded.

h

Perform trial sewing with normal fabric.

Note

● Incorrect sewing may be the result of

incorrect upper threading or sewing thin

fabrics. If there are poor results from the trial

sewing, check the upper threading or the

type of fabric being used.

107

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Error message “E6”

appears in the LCD

If the error message “E6” appears in the LCD with the

occurrence of one of the following symptoms, follow

the procedure below to solve the problem.

Symptom 1 : The machine rattles and then stops

just after sewing is started.

Symptom 2 : The upper thread is tangled, for

example, in the race, or fabric is

caught in the machine.

Symptom 3 : The needle breaks, or the needle

bends and thus hits the needle plate.

Symptom 4 : The fabric is not fed.

Symptom 1 :

The machine rattles and then stops

just after sewing is started.

■ Cause

• The upper thread is not threaded correctly.

• The thread take-up lever is not threaded.

* When the machine stops just after sewing is

started, the upper thread may not be threaded

correctly.

Note

● If the needle is not raised, the upper thread

cannot be threaded correctly. Be sure to

press the needle position button to raise the

needle before threading the upper thread.

■ Remedy

Thread the upper thread again correctly by

following the procedure below.

a

Turn off the machine.

b

If the thread is tangled, remove the tangled

thread.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95) and

“Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric”

(page 99).

c

Remove the upper thread from the machine.

d

Turn the handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) to check if the handwheel

moves smoothly.

e

Remove the needle plate cover, and then

remove the bobbin and bobbin case.

f

Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on

the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the

machine.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).

g

Attach the needle plate cover.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).

h

Set the bobbin in the bobbin case.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).

i

If the needle is bent, replace it with a new

one.

• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).

j

Turn on the machine, and then press the

needle position button to raise the needle.

• Refer to “Upper threading” (page 25).

k

Thread the machine correctly.

• For details on threading the machine, refer to

“Upper threading” (page 25).

Symptom 2 :

The upper thread is tangled, for

example, in the race, or fabric is

caught in the machine.

■ Cause

Thread is tangled below the needle plate.

■ Remedy

Remove the fabric and reset the thread and

bobbin by following the procedure below.

a

Turn off the machine.

b

Remove the fabric from the machine.

• Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and

cannot be removed” (page 103).

If the handwheel moves smoothly

Continue to step

j.

If the handwheel does not move smoothly

Continue to step

e.

108

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

c

Remove the upper thread and bobbin.

• Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and

cannot be removed” (page 103).

d

Remove the bobbin case.

• Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and

cannot be removed” (page 103).

e

If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove

it.

• Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and

cannot be removed” (page 103).

f

Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on

the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the

machine.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).

g

Attach the needle plate cover.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).

h

Set the bobbin in the bobbin case.

• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).

i

If the needle is bent, replace it with a new

one.

• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).

j

Turn on the machine, and then press the

needle position button to raise the needle.

• Refer to “Upper threading” (page 25).

k

Thread the machine correctly.

• For details on threading the machine, refer to

“Upper threading” (page 25).

Symptom 3 :

The needle breaks, or the needle

bends and thus hits the needle

plate.

■ Cause

You have not used the right combination of

fabric, thread and needle.

■ Remedy

Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate

for the type of fabric.

• Refer to “Needle types and their uses”

(page 31).

Symptom 4 :

The fabric is not fed.

■ Cause

The thread has become clogged as the stitch is too

fine.

■ Remedy

Lengthen the stitch length.

• Refer to “Adjusting the stitch length and width”

(page 40).

109

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

List of symptoms

■ Before sewing

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The needle

threader can not

be used. (For

models equipped

with the needle

threader lever.)

You have not moved the needle

holder to its highest position.

Raise the needle either by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark

on the wheel points up or by pressing

(needle position button) once or

twice.

page 25

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32

The sewing light

does not come on.

The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 14

Bobbin thread

does not wind

neatly on the bob-

bin.

The thread is not passed through the

bobbin-winding thread guide

correctly.

Correctly pass the thread through the

bobbin-winding thread guide.

page 19

Bobbin spins slowly. (for models

equipped with the sewing speed

controller.)

Move the sewing speed controller to

the right (so that the speed will be

fast).

page 21

The thread that was pulled out was

not wound onto the bobbin correctly.

(For models equipped with the fast

bobbin winding system.)

Wind the thread that was pulled off

round the bobbin five or six times

clockwise.

page 20

The thread does

not pass through

the eye of the nee-

dle. (For models

equipped with the

needle threader

lever.)

You have not moved the needle

holder to its highest position.

Raise the needle either by turning the

handwheel toward you

(counterclockwise) so that the mark

on the wheel points up or by pressing

(needle position button) once or

twice.

page 25

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32

The needle

threader lever

does not lower to

the correct

position. (For

models equipped

with the needle

threader lever.)

The needle has not been raised to the

correct position.

Press the needle position button. page 25

While winding the

bobbin, the

bobbin thread was

wound below the

bobbin winder

seat.

You have not wound the bobbin

thread properly.

After removing the thread wound

below the bobbin winder seat, wind

the bobbin correctly.

page 17

110

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

■ While sewing

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The sewing

machine does not

work.

The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 14

The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 14

The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to

the right.

Move the bobbin winder shaft to the

left.

page 20, 21

You have not used the foot controller

properly.

Use the foot controller properly. page 14

The foot controller or the start/stop

button was not pressed (for models

equipped with the start/stop button).

Press the foot controller or the start/

stop button.

page 42

The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. page 41

The start/stop button was pressed,

even though the foot controller is

connected. (for models equipped

with the start/stop button)

Do not use the start/stop button when

the foot controller is connected. To

use the start/stop button, disconnect

the foot controller.

page 42

Fabric being

sewn with the

machine cannot

be removed.

Thread is tangled below the needle

plate.

Lift up the fabric and cut the threads

below it, and clean the race.

page 103

The needle

breaks.

The spool or spool cap is incorrectly

installed.

Correctly install the spool or spool

cap.

page 26

The upper thread was not threaded

correctly.

Correct the upper threading. page 25

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32

The needle clamp screw is loose.

Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to

firmly tighten the screw.

page 33

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32

You have not used the right

combination of fabric, thread and

needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

page 31

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that

you want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

page 82

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 43

You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –

The area around the hole in the

needle plate is scratched.

Replace the needle plate.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized service center.

–

The area around the hole in the

presser foot is scratched.

Replace the presser foot.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized service center.

–

The bobbin case is scratched.

Replace the bobbin case.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized service center.

–

You have not used a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

properly. Only use a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

page 17

111

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

The upper thread

breaks.

The upper thread was not threaded

correctly. (for example, the spool is

not installed correctly, the spool cap

is too big for the spool being used, or

the thread has come out of the needle

bar thread guide.)

Correct the upper threading. Use the

spool cap that best fits the size of the

spool being used.

page 25

There are knots or tangles in the

thread.

Remove any knots or tangles. –

The needle is not appropriate for the

thread you are using.

Choose a needle that is appropriate

for the type of stitch.

page 31

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 43

The thread is tangled, for example, in

the race.

Remove the tangle thread. If the

thread is tangled in the race, clean the

race.

page 95, 99

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32

The area around the hole in the

needle plate is scratched.

Replace the needle plate.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorised service center.

–

The area around the hole in the

presser foot is scratched.

Replace the presser foot.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorised service center.

–

The bobbin case is scratched, or has a

burr on it.

Replace the bobbin case.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorised service center.

–

You have not used a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

properly. Only use a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

page 17

The lower thread

is tangled or

breaks.

You have not wound the bobbin

thread properly.

Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 17

The bobbin is scratched or does not

turn smoothly.

Replace the bobbin. –

The thread is tangled.

Remove the tangled thread and clean

the race.

page 95, 99

You have not used a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

properly. Only use a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

page 17

Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 22, 23

The fabric is

wrinkled.

You have not threaded the upper thread

properly or fitted the bobbin properly.

Thread the upper thread and wind the

bobbin thread properly.

page 22, 23, 25

The spool or spool cap is incorrectly

installed.

Correctly install the spool or spool

cap.

page 26

You have not used the right

combination of fabric, thread and

needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

page 31

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32

If thin fabrics are being sewn, the

stitch is too long or the fabric is not

being fed correctly.

Sew with the stabilizer material under

the fabric.

page 46

If thin fabrics are being sewn, the

stitch is too coarse.

Shorten the stitch length, or sew with

stabilizer material under the fabric.

page 40, 46

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

112

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

The fabric is

wrinkled.

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that

you want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

page 82

The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 43, 102

Stitches are

skipped.

You have not threaded the upper

thread properly.

Correct the upper threading. page 25

You have not used the right

combination of fabric, thread and

needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

page 31

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.

page 32

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

Dust has accumulated under the

needle plate or in the race.

Remove the needle plate cover and

clean the plate and the race.

page 95

There is a high-

pitched noise

while sewing.

Dust has built up in the feed dogs or

in the race.

Remove the needle plate cover and

clean the plate and the race.

page 95

You have not threaded the upper

thread properly.

Correct the upper threading. page 25

The bobbin case is scratched.

Replace the bobbin case.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized service center.

–

You have not used bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

properly. Only use a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

page 17

The fabric does

not feed.

The feed dogs are lowered.

Slide the feed dog position lever to .

page 57, 67

The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 40

You have not used the right

combination of fabric, thread and

needle.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

page 31

The thread is tangled, for example, in

the race.

Remove the tangle thread. If the

thread is tangled in the race, clean the

race.

page 95, 99

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that

you want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

page 82

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32

Zigzag foot “J” is slanted on a thick

seam at the beginning of stitching.

Use the presser foot locking pin

(black button on the left side) on

zigzag foot “J” to keep the presser foot

level while sewing.

page 45

The fabric feeds

in the opposite

direction.

The feed mechanism is damaged.

Contact your retailer or the nearest

authorized service center.

–

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

113

4

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——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

■ After sewing

Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference

The upper thread

has tightened up.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly

installed.

Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22, 98

The thread

tension is

incorrect.

You have not threaded the upper

thread properly.

Correct the upper threading. page 25

You have not wound the bobbin

thread properly.

Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 17

The bobbin thread is incorrectly

installed.

Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22

You have not threaded the right com-

bination of thread and needle for the

fabric you are using.

Choose a thread and needle that are

appropriate for the type of fabric.

page 31

You have not attached the presser-

foot holder properly.

Attach the presser-foot holder

properly.

page 37

The thread tension is incorrect.

Adjust the tension of the upper

thread.

page 43, 102

You have not used a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

properly. Only use a bobbin that has

been designed for this machine.

page 17

Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 22, 23

The thread is

tangled on the

wrong side of the

fabric.

You have not threaded the upper

thread properly.

Correct the upper threading. page 25, 99

The stitch is not

sewn correctly.

The presser foot you are using is not

appropriate for the type of stitch that

you want to sew.

Attach the presser foot that is correct

for the type of stitch that you want to

sew.

page 82

The thread tension is incorrect.

Adjust the tension of the upper

thread.

page 43, 102

The thread is tangled, for example, in

the race.

Remove the tangle thread. If the

thread is tangled in the race, clean the

race.

page 95, 99

The stitch adjustment level is

incorrect.

Adjust the stitch. page 80

114

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

ERROR MESSAGES

If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the

operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.

If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the

message disappears.

Operation beep

Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation

is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).

■ If a key is pressed (correct operation)

One beep sounds.

■ If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed

Two or four beeps sound.

■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled

The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the

cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.

Error Message Probable Cause Solution

The foot controller was pressed (or the start/

stop button was pressed if the foot controller is

not connected) and the reverse/reinforcement

stitch button was pressed while the presser

foot is raised.

Lower the presser foot lever before

continuing the operation.

A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack

stitch was selected and the foot controller was

pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if

the foot controller is not connected) while the

buttonhole lever is lowered.

Raise the buttonhole lever before

continuing the operation.

The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected

and the foot controller was pressed (or the

start/stop button was pressed if the foot

controller is not connected) while the

buttonhole lever is raised.

Lower the buttonhole lever before

continuing the operation.

The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or

needle position button was pressed while the

bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.

Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left

before continuing the operation.

The start/stop button was pressed while the

foot controller was connected.

Disconnect the foot controller, and then

press the start/stop button. Otherwise,

operate the machine by using the foot

controller.

The motor locked up because the thread

became tangled, or the needle bent and thus

hit the needle plate.

Clean the race to remove the tangled

thread (page 95).

Check the needle. If the needle is bent or

broken, replace the needle (page 32).

If both of the above fail, refer to “Error

message “E6” appears in the LCD” (page

107).

The machine may be malfunctioning.

Contact your nearest authorized service

center.

115

4

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i

INDEX

Numerics

3-point zigzag stitch .......................................................47

A

accessories .......................................................................6

adjusting stitches ............................................................80

appliqués .......................................................................63

B

bar tack ..........................................................................68

basic stitching ................................................................49

blind hem stitching.........................................................50

bobbin ...........................................................................22

bobbin case....................................................................23

bobbin cover......................................................9

, 22, 23

bobbin winder.........................8

, 17, 20, 109, 110, 114

button sewing.................................................................57

buttonhole foot........................................................54

, 68

buttonhole lever .................................................9

, 55, 69

buttonhole sewing..........................................................53

C

character stitch indicator .........................................10, 76

character stitch key .................................................10

, 76

checking characters........................................................79

combining characters .....................................................77

crazy quilt stitching ........................................................64

D

darning....................................................................47, 61

deleting characters .........................................................79

E

elastic tape .....................................................................61

error messages..............................................................114

extra spool pin ...............................................................34

eyelet punch ..................................................................56

F

fagoting ..........................................................................71

fast bobbin winding........................................................20

feed dog position lever .......................................8

, 57, 67

feed dogs............................................................9

, 57, 67

flat bed attachment...............................................7

, 8, 46

flip chart.........................................................................12

foot controller ....................................................6

, 14, 41

free-motion quilting........................................................66

H

handwheel ................................................................8, 41

heirloom stitching ..........................................................74

hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................45

J

joining............................................................................73

joining stitch ...........................................................63

, 70

M

main parts ........................................................................8

main power switch.........................................................14

monogramming.......................................................72

, 74

N

needle ............................................................................31

needle bar thread guide.............................................9

, 28

needle clamp screw ..................................................9

, 33

needle plate .....................................................................9

needle plate cover.....................................................9

, 95

needle position...............................................................49

needle position button......................................................9

needle threader .........................................................9

, 28

O

openings ........................................................................68

operation beep ......................................................16

, 114

operation buttons .............................................................9

operation panel ..............................................................10

optional accessories .........................................................7

overcasting stitches ........................................................47

P

patchwork stitching ........................................................64

piecing...........................................................................64

pocket corners................................................................68

presser foot................................................................9

, 36

presser foot holder.....................................................9

, 37

presser foot lever .......................................................9

, 25

Q

quick-set bobbin ................................................9, 23, 30

quilting...........................................................................65

quilting foot....................................................................66

quilting guide .......................................................... 65

, 66

R

race................................................................................95

reinforcement stitching...................................................42

reverse/reinforcement stitch button............................9

, 42

S

scallop stitching .............................................................72

seam ripper ....................................................................56

sewing machine needles ................................................31

sewing speed controller.............................................9

, 15

sewing the character stitches ..........................................79

sleeve holes....................................................................68

smocking........................................................................72

spool cap ....................................................6

, 11, 17, 26

spool pin ..........................................................11

, 17, 25

start/stop button..................................................9

, 41, 42

stitch length....................................................................40

stitch selection key .................................................. 10

, 77

stitch settings..................................................................82

stitch width ....................................................................40

116

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————

——

straight stitch ..................................................................49

stretch fabrics .................................................................46

T

thick fabrics....................................................................44

thin fabrics .....................................................................46

thread cutter...................................................................42

thread tension ................................................................43

trial sewing.....................................................................44

triple stretch stitch ..........................................................49

troubleshooting ..............................................................98

twin needle .............................................................33

, 34

U

upper tension-control dial ................................8, 43, 102

upper threading..............................................................25

utility stitch indicator...............................................10

, 39

utility stitch key .......................................................39

, 78

W

walking foot ...................................................................65

wing needle ...................................................................74

Z

zigzag stitch .....................................................44, 47, 63

zipper foot......................................................................59

zipper insertion ..............................................................59

English

885-E42/E43

Printed in China

APPENDIX

UTILITY STITCHES

SEWING BASICS

KNOWING YOUR

SEWING MACHINE

Operation Manual

Product Code: 885-E42/E43

Sewing Machine

XG2315-001

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.

We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

Please visit us at http://support.brother.com/ where you can get product

support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

Operation Manual

885-E42/E43

Cover1-4

PANTONE 285C K

Brother XS3109 Manual

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