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885-E42/E43
Printed in China
APPENDIX
UTILITY STITCHES
SEWING BASICS
KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
Operation Manual
Product Code: 885-E42/E43
Sewing Machine
XG2315-001
Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
Please visit us at http://support.brother.com/ where you can get product
support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
Operation Manual
885-E42/E43
Cover1-4
PANTONE 285C K
1
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or
injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual:
To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Electrical Hazards:
This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the
rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of
power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.
This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.
4 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other
part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise
you may injure your back or knees.
2
5 Always keep your work area clear:
Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Do not store objects on the foot controller.
Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise
the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
6 Special care is required when sewing:
Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the
needle area.
Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
7 This machine is not a toy:
Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or
disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
Do not use outdoors.
8 For a longer service life:
When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
9 For repair or adjustment:
If the light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
3
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge,
unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the
appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to
ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons
with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and
knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the
appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not
play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by
children without supervision.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND
CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
4
CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...............................................................................1
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ..........................................................6
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................................................................6
Included accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 6
Optional accessories ........................................................................................................................................ 7
Accessory compartment ................................................................................................................................... 7
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................................................8
The main parts ................................................................................................................................................. 8
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 9
Operation buttons ............................................................................................................................................. 9
Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 10
Spool pin ........................................................................................................................................................ 11
Flip chart ........................................................................................................................................................ 12
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...................................................................................13
Power supply precautions .............................................................................................................................. 13
Power supply .................................................................................................................................................. 14
Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................ 14
Sewing speed controller (for models equipped with the start/stop button) ..................................................... 15
Changing the needle stop position ................................................................................................................. 15
Changing the initial needle position ............................................................................................................... 15
Cancelling the operation beep ....................................................................................................................... 16
THREADING THE MACHINE ............................................................................................17
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 17
Lower threading ............................................................................................................................................. 22
Upper threading ............................................................................................................................................. 25
Drawing up the lower thread .......................................................................................................................... 30
REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................31
Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................ 31
Needle types and their uses ........................................................................................................................... 31
Checking the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 32
Replacing the needle ..................................................................................................................................... 32
Sewing with the twin needle ........................................................................................................................... 34
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ......................................................................................36
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................. 36
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................. 37
2. SEWING BASICS ...........................................................................................38
SEWING ............................................................................................................................38
General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................. 38
Selecting a stitch ............................................................................................................................................ 39
Adjusting the stitch length and width .............................................................................................................. 40
Starting to sew ............................................................................................................................................... 41
Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................... 43
USEFUL SEWING TIPS ......................................................................................................44
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 44
Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 44
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................ 44
Sewing thick fabrics ....................................................................................................................................... 44
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape .............................................................................................................. 45
Sewing thin fabrics ......................................................................................................................................... 46
Sewing stretch fabrics .................................................................................................................................... 46
Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................................................................................................................. 46
3. UTILITY STITCHES ........................................................................................47
OVERCASTING STITCHES ................................................................................................47
5
Using zigzag foot ............................................................................................................................................ 47
Using overcasting foot .................................................................................................................................... 48
BASIC STITCHING ............................................................................................................49
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................ 49
BLIND HEM STITCHING ..................................................................................................50
BUTTONHOLE SEWING ...................................................................................................53
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 57
ZIPPER INSERTION ...........................................................................................................59
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE ............................................................61
Stretch stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 61
Elastic attaching ............................................................................................................................................. 61
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING ........................................................63
Appliqués ....................................................................................................................................................... 64
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 64
Piecing ........................................................................................................................................................... 64
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................... 65
Free-motion quilting ....................................................................................................................................... 66
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING .........................................................................................68
Triple stretch stitching .................................................................................................................................... 68
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 68
DECORATIVE STITCHING ................................................................................................70
Fagoting ......................................................................................................................................................... 71
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 72
Smocking ....................................................................................................................................................... 72
Shell tuck stitching ......................................................................................................................................... 73
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 73
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 74
SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches) ............................75
Sewing beautiful patterns ............................................................................................................................... 75
Selecting characters ....................................................................................................................................... 76
Checking characters ...................................................................................................................................... 79
Deleting characters ........................................................................................................................................ 79
Sewing the character stitches ........................................................................................................................ 79
ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches) .............................80
4. APPENDIX .....................................................................................................82
STITCH SETTINGS .............................................................................................................82
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 82
Satin stitches .................................................................................................................................................. 89
Mirror image stitches ...................................................................................................................................... 90
Character stitches .......................................................................................................................................... 93
MAINTENANCE ................................................................................................................95
Restrictions on oiling ...................................................................................................................................... 95
Precautions on storing the machine ............................................................................................................... 95
Cleaning the machine surface ........................................................................................................................ 95
Cleaning the race ........................................................................................................................................... 95
TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................98
Frequent troubleshooting topics ..................................................................................................................... 98
Upper thread tightened up ............................................................................................................................. 98
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .......................................................................................................... 99
Incorrect thread tension ............................................................................................................................... 102
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ............................................................................. 103
Error message “E6” appears in the LCD ...................................................................................................... 107
List of symptoms .......................................................................................................................................... 109
ERROR MESSAGES ..........................................................................................................114
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................ 114
INDEX .............................................................................................................................115
6
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
Included accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your dealer.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 885-E43. The product code is
mentioned on the machine rating plate.
The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: 132730-122)
The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.
Memo
About zigzag foot “J”;
Press the black button on the left side of the foot when it is difficult for thick seams
to be fed, for example, at the beginning of sewing thick fabrics. (page 45)
aBlack button
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
9. 10.
75/11 1 needle
90/14 1 needle
100/16 1 needle
11. 12.
90/14 1 needle
13. 14. 15.
16. 17. 18. 19.
No. Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
1
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
XZ5134-001
2 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033
3 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031
4 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031
5 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021
6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001
7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2137-001
8 Seam ripper XZ5082-001
9
Bobbin (4)
(One is on machine.)
SA156
SFB:
XA5539-151
10 Needle set XC8834-021
11 Twin needle 131096-121
12
Ball point needle
(gold colored)
XD0360-021
13 Cleaning brush X59476-021
14 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051
15 Spool cap (large) 130012-024
16
Spool cap (medium)
(on machine)
XE1372-001
17 Spool cap (small) 130013-124
18 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
Foot controller
XD0501-121 (EU area)
XC8816-071 (Other areas)
19
No. Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
7
1
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you
purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.
Accessory compartment
The accessories are stored in a compartment inside
the flat bed attachment. Open the compartment as
shown in the figure below.
a Flat bed attachment
b Storage compartment
Note
Store the accessories in the compartment
when they are not used.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
No. Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
1 Walking foot SA140
F033N:
XC2214-052
2 Quilting foot SA129
F005N:
XC1948-052
3 1/4-inch quilting foot SA125
F001N:
XC1944-052
4 Quilting guide SA132
F016N:
XC2215-052
5 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001
No. Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
8
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
The illustrations in this operation manual may differ from the actual machine.
The main parts
a Bobbin winder (page 17)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.
b Upper tension-control dial (page 43)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
c Bobbin-winding thread guide and pre-tension disc
(page 19)
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the
pre-tension disc when winding the bobbin thread.
d Thread take-up lever (page 27)
e Thread cutter (page 42)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
f Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(page 7 and 46)
g Operation buttons (page 9)
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing
machine model.
h Operation panel (page 10)
This is used to select the stitch and specify the various
settings. Design and position of the operation panel
differs depending on the sewing machine model.
i Spool pin (page 11, 17 and 25)
This holds the spool of thread.
j Handwheel
This is used to manually raise and lower the needle.
k Air vent
This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
l Main power and sewing light switch (page 14)
You can turn the main power and sewing light switch
on and off.
m Jack/socket connector (page 14)
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the jack/
socket connector.
n Foot controller (page 14)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.
o Foot controller jack/socket (page 14)
Plug in the foot controller plug.
p Feed dog position lever (page 57 and 67)
Use the feed dog position lever to lower the feed dogs.
q Presser foot lever (page 25)
This is used to raise and lower the presser foot.
r Thread guide (page 18 and 27)
This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin
and then threading the machine.
s Thread guide cover (page 18 and 27)
Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
t Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
9
1
Needle and presser foot section
a Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle
threader) (page 28)
b Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes
and bar tacks.
c Presser foot holder
The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder.
d Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot holder in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitching.
f Needle plate cover release
Use when removing the needle plate cover.
g Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the race.
h Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
i Quick-set bobbin (for models equipped with the quick-
set bobbin)
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
j Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
k Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing
straight seams.
l Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
m Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
n Needle clamp screw
Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
The operation buttons differ depending on the sewing machine model.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
reverse stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping
the button pressed down to sew in the opposite
direction. For details, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 42).
b Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 41).
c Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
needle. Be sure to raise the needle before threading the
needle. Use this button to change the sewing direction
or for detailed sewing in small areas. Pressing the button
twice sews one stitch.
d Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
10
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front of the
sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and
specify how the stitch will be sewn.
The operation panel differs depending on the sewing
machine model.
a LCD (liquid crystal display)
1 The number of the selected stitch
2 The presser foot type to be used
3 The selected stitch type number
4 The stitch length (mm)
5 The stitch width (mm)
6 The auto reverse/reinforcement
b Stitch selection keys
Press the stitch selection keys, and then select the
number for the stitch that you wish to use. For details,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).
c Stitch length adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch length. (Press the “–”
side to reduce the stitch length; press the “+” side to
increase the stitch length.)
d Stitch width adjustment key
Press this key to adjust the stitch width. (Press the “–”
side to reduce the stitch width; press the “+” side to
increase the stitch width.)
Keys and indicators
e Utility stitch key
Press this key to select the desired type of utility stitches.
Press this key once or more until the desired stitch type
number is displayed on the LCD. For details, refer to
“Selecting a stitch” (page 39).
f Utility stitch indicator
This indicator lights up when the utility stitch is selected.
g Character stitch key
Press this key to select the desired font type of character
stitches. Press this key once or more until the desired
stitch type number is displayed on the LCD. For details,
refer to “Selecting characters” (page 76).
h Character stitch indicator
This indicator lights up when the character stitch is
selected.
h
e
f
g
11
1
Spool pin
As shown, press down on the spool pin lever with
your finger to raise the spool pin.
Storing the spool cap
The enclosed spool cap (large, medium, small)
can be stored by attaching it to the spool pin as
shown in the illustration. When attaching the
spool cap, position it with the rounded side
toward the spool pin.
Storing the spool pin
When placing the cover on the sewing machine
before storing or if the spool pin will not be used,
return the spool pin to its storage position.
Remove the spool from the spool pin, and then
fold up the spool pin, as shown in the illustration,
until it snaps into place to secure it.
Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.
CAUTION
12
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Installing the spool pin
a
If the spool pin has been removed from the
machine, insert the tab on the spool pin into
the hole on the back of the machine, as
shown.
a Hole
b Tab
b
Push the spool pin down until it locks into
place.
Flip chart
You can check the pattern numbers of the stitches
using the flip chart on the machine.
Hold the notch with your finger to flip the chart.
For models equipped with a flip chart on the top
panel
For models equipped with a flip chart on the front
panel
a Notch
1
1
13
1
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in
fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power
supply jack on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.
Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
When you are away from the machine
After using the machine
When the power fails during use
When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
During electrical storms
Use only the power cord included with this machine.
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire
or electric shock may result.
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from
the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the
cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your
authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.
WARNING
CAUTION
14
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Power supply
a
Insert the plug into a wall outlet.
a Main power switch
b Jack/socket connector
b
Set the main power switch to “I”.
X The sewing light comes on when the
machine is turned on.
Memo
When the machine is turned on, the needle
and the feed dogs will make sound when
they move; this is not a malfunction.
c
To turn off the machine, set the main power
switch to “
{”.
X The sewing light goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Note
If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
supply cord. When restarting the sewing
machine, follow the necessary procedure to
correctly operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
Foot controller
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack/socket on
the rear side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack/socket
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine
will stop.
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the
foot controller when the machine is not in use.
Note
When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
2
1
When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build
up on the foot controller. Doing so could
cause a fire or an electric shock.
CAUTION
Slower
Faster
CAUTION
15
1
Sewing speed controller
(for models equipped with
the start/stop button)
a
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
The speed set using the sewing speed
controller is the foot controller’s maximum
sewing speed.
Changing the needle stop position
Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in
the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can
be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Hold down the “–” side of (stitch selection
key) on the left and turn on the sewing machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “–” side of (stitch selection key).
X The needle stop position changes to the
raised position.
Memo
Perform the same operation to change the
needle stop position to the lowered position.
Changing the initial needle
position
Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected when the sewing machine is
turned on. The machine can be set so that the
straight stitch (center needle position) is
automatically selected when it is turned on.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Hold down the “+” side of (stitch selection
key) on the left and turn on the sewing
machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “+” side of (stitch selection key).
X The initial needle position changes to
the center needle position.
Memo
The specified initial needle position is
maintained even after the machine is turned
off.
Perform the same operation to change the
initial needle position to the left needle
position.
16
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Cancelling the operation beep
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
beep each time a key is pressed. This setting can be
changed so that the machine does not beep.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Hold down the “–” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) and turn on the sewing
machine.
After turning on the sewing machine, release
the “-” side of (stitch width adjustment
key).
X The machine is now set so that it will
not beep.
Memo
Perform the same operation to change the
setting so that machine beeps.
17
1
THREADING THE MACHINE
Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 20.
a
As shown, press down on the spool pin lever
with your finger.
X The spool pin swings up.
b
Remove the spool cap.
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
Only use bobbins (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing
machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.
We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the
machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the
same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151).
a Bobbin-winding
thread guide
b Bobbin winder shaft
c Bobbin
CAUTION
Actual size
This model Other models
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.
CAUTION
Be sure to raise the spool pin when winding
the bobbin. The thread may become tangled if
the bobbin winder is used without raising the
spool pin.
CAUTION
18
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
c
Fully insert the spool of thread for the bobbin
onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
d
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right
so that the spool is moved to the right end of
the spool pin.
Memo
When sewing with fine, cross-wound
thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a
small space between the cap and the spool.
a Spool cap (small)
b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
e
While holding the spool with your right hand,
and then pass the thread under the thread
guide.
a Thread guide
f
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.
a Thread guide cover
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the machine may be
damaged.
Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing
you to choose a spool cap that best fits the
size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread may
catch on the slit in the spool or the machine
may be damaged.
CAUTION
a
c
b
19
1
g
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and
then wind the thread counterclockwise
between the discs, pulling it in as far as
possible.
a Bobbin-winding thread guide
Make sure that the thread passes under the
pre-tension disk.
b Hook
c Pre-tension disk
d Pull it in as far as possible.
Note
Make sure that the thread is pulled as far as
possible into the pre-tension disk, otherwise
the bobbin may not be wound cleanly.
h
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft
and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the
spring on the shaft slides into the notch in the
bobbin.
Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3 to 4
inches) of thread from the hole on the
bobbin.
a Spring on the shaft
b Notch
c 7 – 10 cm (3 – 4 inches)
i
Turn on the sewing machine.
j
While holding the end of the thread, gently
press the foot controller or press (start/stop
button) (for models equipped with the start/
stop button) to wind the thread around the
bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.
Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
k
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
Pull 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole
on the bobbin.
a 1 cm (1/2 inch)
Pull the thread taut and hold the end of the
thread straight up. If the thread is too short,
not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries
may occur when the thread is wound around
the bobbin.
Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the thread
completely, and the bobbin is wound, when
the thread runs low it may tangle around the
bobbin and cause the needle to break.
CAUTION
1
CAUTION
20
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
l
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast). (For models
equipped with the sewing speed controller.)
a Sewing speed controller
m
Press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.
n
When the bobbin seems full and begins
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller or press (start/stop button) (for
models equipped with the start/stop button).
o
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left and remove the bobbin.
p
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).
Memo
When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
For models equipped with the fast bobbin
winding system
a
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
notch in the bobbin.
a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring
b
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
c
Follow steps a through g of the procedure
in “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread
around the pre-tension disk (page 17).
d
While holding the thread that wraps around the
pre-tension disk with your left hand, use your
right hand to wind the free end of the thread
clockwise around the bobbin five or six times.
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, and may break
the needle.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
CAUTION
2
21
1
e
Pull the thread to the right and pass it through
the slit in the bobbin winder seat.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
f
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
(to set the speed to fast) (for models equipped
with the sewing speed controller).
a Sewing speed controller
g
Turn on the sewing machine.
h
Press the foot controller or press (start/
stop button) (for models equipped with the
start/stop button) to start.
Note
If the sewing machine is to be operated
using the foot controller, connect the foot
controller before turning on the machine.
When the foot controller is plugged in, the
start/stop button cannot be used to start
sewing (only for models equipped with the
start/stop button).
i
When the bobbin begins spinning slowly, take
your foot off the foot controller or press
(start/stop button) (for models equipped with
the start/stop button).
j
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft
to the left, and then remove the bobbin from
the shaft.
k
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
original position (for models equipped with
the sewing speed controller).
Memo
When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the
bobbin is wound without cutting the thread
using the cutter built into the slit in the
bobbin winder seat, the thread may become
tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend
or break when the bobbin thread starts to run
out.
CAUTION
Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the
thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
CAUTION
1
2
22
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
For more details on quick-set bobbin, see page 23.
Memo
The direction for feeding the bobbin thread
is indicated by marks on the needle plate
cover. Be sure to thread the machine as
indicated.
a
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Slide the button and open the cover.
a Cover
b Slide button
d
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out in
the direction shown by the arrow.
Winding the bobbin improperly may cause
the thread tension to loosen, breaking the
needle and resulting in injury.
a Wound evenly
b Wound poorly
The bobbin was designed specifically for this
sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate
correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156,
SFB: XA5539-151).
Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine. If you accidentally
step on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
CAUTION
1
2
Actual size
This model Other models
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
CAUTION
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
12
CAUTION
23
1
e
Hold the end of the thread, push the bobbin
down with your finger, and then pass the
thread through the slit, as shown.
If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension
(page 43).
a Tension-adjusting spring
f
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.
Replace the cover so that the end of the
thread comes out from the left side of the
cover (as shown by the line in the diagram).
For models equipped with the quick-set bobbin
Memo
The direction for feeding the bobbin thread
is indicated by marks on the needle plate
cover. Be sure to thread the machine as
indicated.
a
Raise the needle to its highest position by turning
the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or
press (needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button), and
raise the presser foot lever.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Slide the button and open the cover.
a Cover
b Slide button
d
Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that the
end of the thread is on the left, and then, after
pulling the thread firmly around the tab with your
left hand as shown, lightly pull the thread to
guide it through the slit.
a Tab
1
Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread
unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls
in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the needle.
12
CAUTION
24
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
e
While lightly holding down the bobbin with
your right hand as shown, guide the thread
through the slit (
a and b).
At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.
Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (
c).
a Slit
b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)
Note
If the thread is not correctly inserted
through the tension-adjusting spring of the
bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread
tension (page 43).
a Tension-adjusting spring
f
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the left tab in
place (see arrow a), and then press lightly on
the right side (see arrow b) until the cover
clicks into place.
Memo
You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. If you want
to draw up the bobbin thread before you
start to sew, follow to the procedure in
“Drawing up the lower thread” (page 30).
1
25
1
Upper threading
Set the upper thread and thread the needle.
For details on the needle threader, see page 28.
a Spool pin
b Mark on the handwheel
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
lever.
a Presser foot lever
c
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up, or press
(needle position button) (for models equipped
with the needle position button) once or twice
to raise the needle.
If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded. Be
sure to turn the handwheel so that the mark
on the wheel points up before threading the
sewing machine.
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct,
the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of
needles and threads, refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page 31).
CAUTION
If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.
CAUTION
a Mark b Needle position button
or
26
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
d
As shown, press down on the spool pin lever
with your finger.
X The spool pin swings up.
e
Remove the spool cap.
a Spool pin
b Spool cap
f
Fully insert the spool for the upper thread
onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
g
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap
positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap
onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right
so that the spool is moved to the right end of
the spool pin.
Do not grab the bar to raise the spool pin,
otherwise, the spool pin may bend or break.
Be sure to raise the spool pin before use. If the
spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set
incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the
spool pin and cause the needle to break.
CAUTION
CAUTION
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned
correctly, the thread may become tangled
around the spool pin or the needle may break.
Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you
to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of
spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for
the spool being used, the thread may catch on
the slit in the spool or the needle may break.
CAUTION
27
1
Memo
When sewing with fine, cross-wound
thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a
small space between the cap and the spool.
a Spool cap (small)
b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
h
While holding the spool with your right hand,
and then pass the thread under the thread
guide.
a Thread guide
i
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled
out, and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.
a Thread guide cover
j
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
illustration below.
k
Make sure you guide the thread through the
thread take-up lever from right to left as
shown in the illustration below.
a Thread take-up lever
Memo
If the needle is not raised, the thread take-
up lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to
press the needle position button to raise the
needle before threading the thread take-up
lever.
a
c
b
28
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
l
Put the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide above the needle.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand.
a Needle bar thread guide
m
Turn off the sewing machine.
n
Thread the needle from front to back and pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread.
a 5 cm (2 inches)
Note
If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread cannot be wrapped around the
thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise
the presser foot lever and the thread take-up
lever before you feed the upper thread.
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
Using the needle threader (for models
equipped with the needle threader)
a
Follow steps a through m of the procedure
in “Upper threading” to thread the machine
to the needle bar thread guide.
b
Lower the presser foot lever.
c
While lowering the needle threader lever,
hook the thread onto the guide.
a Needle holder
b Needle threader lever
c Guide
Make sure you turn the power off while
threading the machine without using the
needle threader (for models equipped with
the needle threader). If you accidentally step
on the foot controller and the machine starts
to sew, you could be injured.
1
CAUTION
The needle threader can be used with a 75/11
through 100/16 home sewing machine
needle. However, the needle threader cannot
be used with a 65/9 home sewing machine
needle. When using special thread such as
transparent nylon thread or metallic thread,
the needle threader cannot be used.
Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to
“Upper threading” (page 25).
CAUTION
29
1
d
Fully lower the needle threader lever.
X The end of the needle threader rotates
toward you and the hook passes
through the eye of the needle.
e
Catch the thread on the hook as shown below.
a Hook
b Thread
f
While lightly holding the thread, release the
needle threader lever. The hook will pull the
thread through the needle.
g
Pull the loop of the thread passed through the
eye of the needle toward the rear of the
machine.
a Loop of thread
h
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
i
Pass the end of the thread through the presser
foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches)
of thread toward the rear of the machine.
a 5 cm (2 inches)
Note
If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
Be careful not to pull on the thread with force
or it may bend the needle.
If the thread does not pass through the eye of
the needle, start from step
c again.
CAUTION
30
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Drawing up the lower thread
a
Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.
a Upper thread
b
While holding the end of the upper thread,
raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so
that the mark on the wheel points up or by
pressing (needle position button) (for
models equipped with the needle position
button) once or twice.
c
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower
thread.
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
d
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both
threads and pull them toward the back of the
machine under the presser foot.
a Upper thread
b Lower thread
For models equipped with the quick-set
bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without
drawing up the bobbin thread. When sewing
gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower
thread by hand so that some thread will be left
over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.
a
Pass the thread along the slit in the direction
of the arrow, and leave it there without
cutting it.
The bobbin cover should still be removed.
b
Draw up the lower thread as described in
steps a to d.
c
Replace the bobbin cover.
a Mark b Needle position button
or
31
1
REPLACING THE NEEDLE
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Note
Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions.
Memo
The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injury.
Fabric Type/Application
Thread
Size of Needle
Type Size
Medium weight
fabrics
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60–90
75/11–90/14
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Thin fabrics
Lawn Cotton thread
60–90
65/9–75/11
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Thick fabrics
Denim Cotton thread
30 100/16
50
90/14–100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50–60
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch fabrics
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
Tricot
Easily frayed fabrics
Cotton thread
50–90
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30 100/16
50–60 75/11–90/14
CAUTION
32
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Ball point needle
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch
fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily
occur.
Use the ball point needle for best results when
sewing patterns using monogramming foot “N”.
The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR”
(Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT”
130/705H SUK 90/14 may be used as a substitute.
Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the
fabric or thread.
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
Correct needle
a Flat surface
Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
a Flat surface
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
disc-shaped screwdriver and a needle that has been
determined to be straight according to the
instructions in “Checking the needle”.
a
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
combinations are shown in the table on the
previous page. If the combination of the
fabric, thread and needle is not correct,
particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such
as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to
75/11), the needle may bend or break. In
addition, the stitching may be uneven or
puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
CAUTION
1
2
1
a Mark b Needle position button
Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn
off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the foot controller or the start/
stop button is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
1
or
CAUTION
33
1
c
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
d
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
use a disc-shaped screwdriver to turn the
needle clamp screw counterclockwise to
remove the needle.
Note
The needle can be removed by simply
loosening the needle clamp screw about
one turn. (If the needle clamp screw is
loosened too much, the needle clamp
(which holds the needle) may fall off.
Therefore, do not loosen the needle clamp
screw too much.)
a Disc-shaped screwdriver
b Needle clamp screw
Do not apply strong force when loosening or
tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
e
With the flat side of the needle toward the
rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
a Needle stopper
f
While holding the needle with your left hand,
use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten the
needle clamp screw by turning it clockwise.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
Before replacing the needle, place fabric or
paper under the presser foot to prevent the
needle from falling into the hole in the needle
plate.
CAUTION
Be sure to insert the needle until it touches
the needle stopper and securely tighten the
needle clamp screw with the disc-shaped
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break
or damage may result.
CAUTION
34
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Sewing with the twin needle
We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH SETTINGS” (page 82).
a
Install the twin needle.
For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 32).
b
Thread the upper thread for the left needle.
For details, refer to steps
a through l of
“Upper threading” (page 25).
c
Manually thread the left needle with the
upper thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front to the back.
d
Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the
bobbin winder shaft.
e
Install the thread spool and thread the upper
thread.
Memo
When setting the thread spool, set it so that
the thread winds off from the front of the
spool.
a Twin needle b Extra spool pin
Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: 131096-121). Other needles
could break, and damage the machine.
Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.
You can not use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand,
from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.
When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or
the machine may be damaged.
Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
CAUTION
a Bobbin winder shaft
b Extra spool pin
c Thread spool
35
1
f
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
the same way that the upper thread for the
left side was threaded.
a Thread guide cover
For details, refer to step h through k of
“Upper threading” (page 25).
g
Without passing the thread through the
needle bar thread guide, manually thread the
right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front to the back.
h
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 36).
Note
Models equipped with a needle threader
You cannot use the needle threader to
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the
twin needle by hand, from front to back.
Using the needle threader may damage the
machine.
i
Turn on the sewing machine.
j
Select a stitch.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting a stitch” (page 39).
For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “STITCH
SETTINGS” (page 82).
k
Start sewing.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting
to sew” (page 41).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel
to each other.
Note
When using the twin needle, the stitches
may become bunched together, depending
on the types of thread and fabric that are
used. If this occurs, increase the stitch
length. For details on adjusting the stitch
length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length
and width” (page 40).
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach
zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
When changing the sewing direction, be sure
to raise the needle from the fabric, and then
raise the presser foot lever and turn the
fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
Do not try turning the fabric with the twin
needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
CAUTION
CAUTION
36
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
a
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or twice.)
b
If the sewing machine has been turned on,
turn it off.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
d
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder to release the presser foot.
a Black button
b Presser foot holder
e
Place a different presser foot below the holder
so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
shank in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to
be read.
a Presser foot holder
b Shank
c Pin
Note
The presser foot to be used with each stitch
appears in the LCD. To select a stitch, refer
to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).
Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the
controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.
Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser
foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.
Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet
may cause an accident or injury.
CAUTION
a Mark b Needle position button
Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off
the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
the foot controller or the start/stop button is
accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
or
CAUTION
37
1
f
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the
presser foot holder.
a Presser foot lever
b Presser foot holder
c Shank
d Pin
X The presser foot is attached.
g
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
presser foot is securely attached.
Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to
remove the presser foot holder.
a
Remove the presser foot.
For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 36).
b
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to loosen the
presser foot holder screw.
a Disc-shaped screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
Attaching the presser foot holder
a
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
left side of the presser bar.
a Presser foot holder
b Presser bar
b
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your
right hand, and then tighten the screw using
the disc-shaped screwdriver in your left hand.
a Disc-shaped screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
Note
If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot
holder screw, otherwise the presser foot
holder may fall off and the needle may strike
it, causing the needle to bend or break.
CAUTION
38
SEWING BASICS
2 SEWING BASICS
SEWING
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your
hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may
break.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
1
Turn on the
machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Power supply” (page 14).
2 Select the stitch.
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).
3
Attach the presser
foot.
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 36).
4 Start sewing.
Position the fabric, and then start sewing. When sewing is finished, cut the
threads.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 41).
CAUTION
39
2
Selecting a stitch
Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired
stitch.
When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight
stitch ( left needle position) is selected.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Confirm that the utility stitch indicator is lit. If
it is not lit, press the utility stitch key to turn
on the utility stitch indicator.
a Utility stitch key
b Utility stitch indicator
c
Confirm that the desired stitch type number is
displayed on the LCD. If it is not, press the
utility stitch key once or more until the
desired stitch type number is displayed on the
LCD.
a Utility stitch key
b Stitch type number
d
Press (stitch selection keys). The
number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or
reduce the number by one. Pressing on the
right changes the digit on the right and pressing
on the left changes the digit on the left.
X The stitch is selected.
Memo
The pattern numbers of the stitches are
displayed on the machine.
e
Attach the presser foot indicated in the LCD.
a Presser foot type
For details, refer to
“Replacing the presser
foot” (page 36)
.
Memo
The presser foot to be used is indicated by
the letter (J, A, etc.) that appears above or
beside the stitch number.
f
If necessary, adjust the stitch length and
width.
For details on sewing with each of the stitches,
refer to the following example.
Stitch type
number
Stitch type
1 Utility stitches
2 Satin stitches
3 Mirror image stitches
a
b
a
40
SEWING BASICS
Adjusting the stitch length
and width
[Example] Selecting stitch .
a
Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 05.
With on the right, select “5”, and with
on the left, select “0”.
b
Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch
length adjustment key) to increase or reduce
the stitch length.
a Stitch length
b Stitch length adjustment key
c Short
d Long
c
Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to increase or reduce the
stitch width.
a Stitch width
b Stitch width adjustment key
c Narrow
d Wide
Note
When the stitch length or stitch width is
changed from the standard setting,
around or disappears from the LCD.
When the stitch length or stitch width is
reset back to the standard setting,
reappears around or in the LCD.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
If the stitches are bunched together, increase
the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the
stitches bunched together may result in the
needle bending or breaking.
CAUTION
41
2
Starting to sew
a
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up. (With models equipped
with (needle position button), raise the
needle by pressing once or twice.)
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
c
Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass
the thread under the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread
toward the rear of the machine.
a 5 cm (2 inches)
d
While holding the end of the thread and the
fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your
right hand to lower the needle to the starting
point of the stitching.
e
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
f
On models equipped with a sewing speed
controller, slide the sewing speed controller
to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed.
Refer to “Sewing speed controller (for models
equipped with the start/stop button)”
(page 15).
a Sewing speed controller
g
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
(With models equipped with (start/stop
button), if the foot controller is not connected,
press once.)
aStart/stop button
X The machine starts sewing.
a Mark b Needle position button
or
or
42
SEWING BASICS
h
Take your foot off the foot controller, or press
(start/stop button) once (if the machine
was started by pressing (start/stop button))
(for models equipped with the start/stop
button).
X The machine stops sewing.
i
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up. (With models
equipped with (needle position button),
raise the needle by pressing once or
twice.)
This procedure is not necessary if the
needle stop position has been set to the
raised position (page 15).
j
Raise the presser foot lever.
k
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
and then pass the threads upward from below
through the thread cutter to cut them.
a Thread cutter
Memo
When the foot controller is plugged in, start/
stop button cannot be used to start sewing
(for models equipped with the start/stop
button).
When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needles stay up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 15).
Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top
of each other.
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching
Memo
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “STITCH
SETTINGS” (page 82).
1
43
2
Thread tension
The thread tension will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
Memo
We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too
little tension will weaken your seams or cause
puckers on your fabric.
Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
Note
If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to
“Lower threading”
(page 22)
and rethread the bobbin thread.
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number.
Memo
When you finish sewing, remove the
bobbin cover and then make sure that the
thread is shown as below. If the thread is
not shown as below, the thread is not
inserted through the tension-adjusting
spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert
the thread correctly. For details, refer to
page 22, 23.
Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.
Note
If the upper thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too
loose. In this case, refer to
“Upper
threading” (page 25)
and rethread the upper
thread.
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper
tension-control dial to a higher number.
1
2
3
4
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
1
2
3
4
5
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on
surface of fabric
4
3
5
1
2
3
4
5
a Wrong side
b Surface
c Upper thread
d Lower thread
e Loops appear on
wrong side of
fabric
4
3
5
44
SEWING BASICS
USEFUL SEWING TIPS
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you select a stitch, the machine automatically
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is
selected.
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since,
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing
direction
a
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle was raised, lower the needle either by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) or by pressing (needle
position button) once (for models equipped
with the needle position button).
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
c
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
When using the twin needle, be sure to raise
the needle before changing the sewing
direction. If the fabric is turned while the
needle is lowered, the needle may bend or
break.
CAUTION
45
2
If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
The fabric may not feed when thick seams are
being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as
shown below. In this case, use the presser foot
locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag
foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level
while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed
smoothly.
a Sewing direction
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Align the beginning of stitching, and then
position the fabric.
c
While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the
presser foot locking pin (black button on the
left side) pressed in, and lower the presser
foot lever.
a Presser foot locking pin (black button)
d
Release the presser foot locking pin (black
button).
X The presser foot remains level, allowing
the fabric to be fed.
After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will
return to its original angle.
Sewing hook-and-loop
fastener tape
Note
Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
and the hook-and-loop fastener tape.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-
and-loop fastener tape by turning the handwheel and
lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
tape before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the
hook-and-loop fastener tape at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-
loop fastener tape, replace the needle with the
needle for thick fabrics (
page 31
).
a Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is
sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much
force, the needle may bend or break.
Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
fastener tape which is designed for sewing.
When glue adheres to the needle or the
bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.
If the hook-and-loop fastener tape is sewn
with the thin needle (65/9 – 75/11), the
needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
CAUTION
46
SEWING BASICS
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly.
Move the needle (be to use a fine needle) to the
furthest left or righthand position so that the fabric
does not get pulled down into the feed dog area. If
this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material
under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess
paper.
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
a Basting
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or
hard-to-reach areas.
a
Pull the flat bed attachment to the left to
release it.
a Flat bed attachment
X With the flat bed attachment removed,
free-arm sewing is possible.
When sewing cylindrical pieces, follow the
next step.
Note
When you are finished with free-arm
sewing, install the flat bed attachment back
in its original position.
b
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, and then sew from the top.
47
3
3 UTILITY STITCHES
OVERCASTING STITCHES
You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also
useful for sewing stretch materials.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Using zigzag foot
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select a stitch.
For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 39).
c
Sew to the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop point
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzag stitch J 05 Overcasting and attaching appliqués
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
3-point zigzag
stitch
J06
Overcasting on medium weight or
stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Overcasting
stitch
G07
Overcasting on thin or medium
weight fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
G 08 Overcasting on thick fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
G09
Overcasting on thick fabrics and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
J 10 Overcasting on stretch fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J11
Overcasting on thick or stretch fab-
rics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J12
Overcasting on stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
48
UTILITY STITCHES
Using overcasting foot
a
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
b
Select stitch , or .
For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 39).
c
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
against the guide of the presser foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a Guide
d
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot.
e
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
presser foot guide.
a Needle drop point
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
a Check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot.
1
CAUTION
49
3
BASIC STITCHING
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Basic stitching
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select a stitch.
For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 39).
d
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
beginning of the stitching.
e
Start sewing.
For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 41).
For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Sewing reinforcement
stitches” (page 42).
f
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 41).
Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Pressing the “+” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the right;
pressing the “–” side of the stitch width
adjustment key moves the needle to the left.
a Stitch width
b Stitch width adjustment key
c Left needle position
d Right needle position
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
Left
J00
Basic stitching, sewing gathers or
pintucks, etc.
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
J01
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Reinf.
Center
J02
Attaching zippers, basic stitching,
and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
Triple stretch
stitch
J03
Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams,
sewing stretch fabrics and decora-
tive stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
50
UTILITY STITCHES
BLIND HEM STITCHING
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.
Memo
When selecting stitch or . Stitch numbers “0”, “-1”, “-2” or “-3” may be displayed on the LCD by
pressing “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the
left. Stitch numbers “0”, “1”, “2” or “3” may be displayed on the LCD by pressing “+” side of the stitch
width adjustment key, then the needle drop point will be changed to the right.
When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the
fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.
a
Reverse the skirt or pants.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Bottom side
b
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
hem, and press.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Blind hem stitch
R13
Blind hem stitching on medium
weight fabrics
0 (0)
-3 3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Reinf.
R14
Blind hem stitching on stretch fab-
rics
0 (0)
-3 3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
2
1
3
4
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Desired edge of hem
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
1
2
1
2
1
3
3
4
2
51
3
c
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and
then baste it.
d
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.
e
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
fabric with the wrong side facing up.
f
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
g
Select a stitch.
h
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
free-arm sewing possible.
For details on free-arm sewing, refer to
“Stitching cylindrical pieces” (page 46).
i
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly,
and then start sewing.
a Arm
j
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide
k
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise
the needle, and then change the stitch width.
Stitch width
a Thick fabric
b Normal fabric
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Desired edge of hem
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
f Basting
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Desired edge of hem
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
f Basting
g Basting point
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
a Wrong side of fabric
b Right side of fabric
c Edge of fabric
d Desired edge of hem
e Basting point
f Basting
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
1
2
1
2
3
5
6
4
1
2
1
3
6
5
1
1
2
7
4
5
1
1
1
1
1
2
6
3
4
R
R
52
UTILITY STITCHES
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold,
adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly
catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the
stitch width adjustment key.
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust
the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches
the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width
adjustment key.
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 39).
l
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
presser foot guide.
m
Remove the basting stitching and turn the
fabric right side up.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
1
2
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
1
2
53
3
BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.
*Auto Reinf.: Automatic Reinforcement
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Buttonhole stitch
A37
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and
medium weight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A38
Secured buttoholes for fabrics that
have backings
5.0 (3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A39
Buttonholes for stretch or knit fab-
rics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.0 (1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A 40 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.5 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A 41 Bound buttonholes
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A42
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A43
Keyhole buttonholes for medium
weight and thick fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
A44
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J49
Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilt-
ing, satin stitching, button sewing
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Yes
Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
1
1
1
1
a Reinforcement stitching
54
UTILITY STITCHES
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used to create buttonholes, are indicated below.
a Button guide plate
b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
a
Use chalk to mark the position and length of
the buttonhole on the fabric.
a Marks on fabric
b Buttonhole sewing
b
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
d
Select a stitch.
e
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
A
1
2
5
3
4
1
2
A
1
3
2
1
2
55
3
f
Position the fabric with the front end of the
buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
g
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
h
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
Note
If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric
does not feed, sew with the coarser (longer)
stitch.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.
i
Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,
remove the fabric, and cut the thread.
j
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
A
1
2
2
56
UTILITY STITCHES
k
Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole
stitching to prevent the stitching from being
cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards
the pin and open the buttonhole.
a Seam ripper
b Pin
For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial
eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded
end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam
ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
a Eyelet punch
When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Memo
Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
a
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select a stitch or .
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
gimp thread.
e
Lower the presser foot lever and the
buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
f
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
thread to remove any slack.
g
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
h
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
When opening the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting
path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam
ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any
other way than how it is intended.
1
2
1
CAUTION
57
3
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
a
Measure the distance between the holes in the
button to be attached.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
feed dog position lever, located at the rear of
the machine on the base, to (to the right
as seen from the front of the machine).
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
c
Attach presser foot “M”.
a Button fitting foot “M”
d
Place a button between the presser foot and
the fabric.
When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
e
Select a stitch . (With models not provided
with stitch , select stitch .)
f
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
the distance between the holes in the button.
g
Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by
pressing the stitch length adjustment key.
1
58
UTILITY STITCHES
h
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the
button.
Adjust the stitch width to the distance between
the button holes.
i
Start sewing.
After sewing for about 10 seconds at low
speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) to sew reinforcement stitches.
j
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it with the bobbin thread.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
k
When you are finished attaching the button,
slide the feed dog position lever to (to
the left as seen from the front of the machine)
and turn the handwheel to raise the dogs.
Normally, the feed dog position lever is
positioned at .
When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch the button, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.
CAUTION
59
3
ZIPPER INSERTION
You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of
the needle.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Place the two pieces of fabric with their right
sides facing each other.
c
Sew basic stitches to the end of the zipper
opening, and then sew reverse stitches at the
end of the stitching.
Use basting stitching to sew the zipper
opening (where the zipper will be inserted).
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c Wrong side of fabric
d End of zipper opening
Refer to “Basic stitching” on page 49.
d
Open the seam allowance, press it from the
wrong side of the fabric with an iron, align the
center of the zipper with the stitching, and
then baste the zipper in place.
a Wrong side of fabric
b Wrong side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d Zipper
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight stitch
(center)
I02
Attaching zippers, basic stitching,
and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
60
UTILITY STITCHES
e
Attach the presser foot holder to the right side
of the pin on zipper foot “I”.
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
f
Select stitch .
g
With the right side of the fabric facing up,
continue sewing with the zipper on the right
side of the presser foot.
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening
Sew the stitching in order, from a to c.
Memo
If the presser foot contacts the zipper slider,
leave the needle lowered (in the fabric) and
raise the presser foot. After moving the
slider so it will not contact the presser foot,
lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
To sew with the zipper on the left side of the
presser foot, attach the presser foot holder
to the left side of the pin on zipper foot “I”
in step
e.
a Left side of the pin
b Needle drop point
h
When you have finished sewing, remove the
basting stitching.
Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the
needle does not hit the presser foot before
you start sewing. If you choose a different
stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and
break the needle. You may also be injured.
I
CAUTION
Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper
during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper,
the needle may break and you may be injured.
CAUTION
I
61
3
SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
a Elastic tape
b Pin
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select a stitch.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Stretch stitch J04
Sewing stretch fabrics and decora-
tive stitching
1.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
3-point
zigzag stitch
J06
Overcasting on medium weight or
stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Elastic-attaching
stitch
J 24 Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
1
2
62
UTILITY STITCHES
d
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
CAUTION
63
3
APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Zigzag stitch J 05 Overcasting and attaching appliqués
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J49
Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilt-
ing, satin stitching
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Yes Reinf.
Appliqué stitch J 15 Appliqué stitching
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
J 50 Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
J 51 Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Piecing straight
stitch
J46
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5mm from the
right edge of the presser foot)
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Reinf.
J47
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5mm from the
left edge of the presser foot)
1.5 (1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Reinf.
Joining stitch
J18
Patchwork stitching and decorative
stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J19
Patchwork stitching, decorative
stitching and sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabrics, such as with
tricot
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J20
Patchwork stitching and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Hand-look
quilting
J48
Straight stitch quilting that looks
hand-sewn
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Quilting
stippling
J52
Quilting background stitching (stip-
pling)
7.0 (1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
64
UTILITY STITCHES
Appliqués
You can create an appliqué by cutting a different
piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a
decoration.
a
Baste the cut design to the fabric.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch .
d
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
needle dropping off the edge at the right.
a Appliqué fabric
b Needle drop point
e
Remove the basting, if necessary.
Memo
Make reinforcing straight stitches at the
beginning and the end of stitching.
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
a
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
place it over the lower piece.
b
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
pattern spans both pieces.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
a
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
fabric that you wish to piece together.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch or
.
If glue is used to hold the cut design in place
on the fabric, do not apply glue to areas that
will be sewn with the machine. If glue is
attached to the needle or race, the machine
may be damaged.
CAUTION
Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin
during sewing, as the needle can break. You
may also be injured.
CAUTION
65
3
d
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
with the edge of the fabric.
For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch .
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Memo
To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
For details, refer to “Changing the needle
position” (page 49).
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
Note
Only use the walking foot with straight or
zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns.
Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the
walking foot.
Models equipped with a needle threader
Thread the needle manually when using the
walking foot, or only attach the walking foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
a
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
b
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 37).
c
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
onto the needle clamp screw, lower the
presser foot lever, and then use the presser
foot holder screw to attach the walking foot
to the presser bar.
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
c Presser foot holder screw
d
Select stitch , or .
e
Place one hand on each side of the presser
foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while
sewing.
Note
When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
1
1
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten
the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the
needle may strike the presser foot and cause
injury.
Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the
front of the machine to check that the needle
does not strike the presser foot. If the needle
strikes the presser foot, injury may result.
CAUTION
66
UTILITY STITCHES
Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
a
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the
hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
b
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that
the guide aligns with the seam that has
already been sewn.
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be
lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that
the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
Note
Models equipped with a needle threader
Thread the needle manually when using the
quilting foot, or only attach the quilting foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
a
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
holder.
For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (page 37).
b
Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side
of the presser bar.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw
67
3
c
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the disc-shaped screwdriver in
your left hand.
a Presser foot holder screw
d
Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the
rear of the machine on the base, to (to
the right as seen from the front of the machine).
a Feed dog position lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
e
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
stitch.
f
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then
move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
a Pattern
g
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog
position lever to (to the left as seen from
the front of the machine) and turn the
handwheel to raise the dogs.
Normally, the feed dog position lever is
positioned at .
Be sure to securely tighten the screws with
the disc-shaped screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot, causing it
to bend or break.
CAUTION
68
UTILITY STITCHES
REINFORCEMENT STITCHING
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
*Auto Reinf.: Automatic Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Start sewing.
For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 41).
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
a
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale
b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select stitch .
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Triple stretch
stitch
J03
Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams,
sewing stretch fabrics and decora-
tive stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Bar tack stitch A45
Reinforcing openings and areas
where the seam easily comes loose
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4 (1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
*
Auto
Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
CAUTION
1
2
3
69
3
d
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops
2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket
opening.
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct
size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
e
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket
f
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the
machine automatically sews
reinforcement stitches, then stops.
g
Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,
remove the fabric, and cut the thread.
h
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
position.
Memo
If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Selecting a
stitch” (page 39).
1
70
UTILITY STITCHES
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Fagoting stitch
J22
Fagoting, smocking and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J23
Fagoting, smocking and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Joining stitch
J18
Patchwork stitching and decorative
stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J19
Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching
and sewing overcasting on both pieces
of fabrics, such as with tricot
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J20
Patchwork stitching and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Shell tuck stitch J 16 Shell tuck stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Smocking stitch J21
Smocking stitching and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Satin scallop
stitch
N 17 Scallop stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Decorative stitch
J 25 Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
J 26 Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J 27 Decorative stitching
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
N
28
Decorative stitching and elastic-
attaching
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/64–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
*
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
N29
Lace sewing, decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N30
Decorative hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N31
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N32
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N33
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
*Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
71
3
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
a
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.
b
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or
a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the
thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer,
sewing is easier.
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
d
Select stitch or .
e
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 39).
f
Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces of
fabric.
g
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
Decorative stitch
N34
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N35
Decorative stitching, smocking
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N36
Decorative stitching, smocking
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if
the foot controller or (start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
CAUTION
1
2
3
72
UTILITY STITCHES
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars
of blouses and to decorate the edges of
handkerchiefs.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
d
Trim along the stitches.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 39) and “Thread tension” (page 43).
c
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 10 mm
(3/8 inch).
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or
cut the thread.
d
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
e
Select stitch or .
f
Stitch between the straight stitches.
g
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
1
73
3
Shell tuck stitching
The gathers that look like shells are called “shell
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.
a
Fold the fabric along the bias.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch , and then increase the thread
tension.
For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch”
(page 39).
d
Sew while making sure that the needle drops
slightly off the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop point
e
Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
down to one side.
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
of fabric, and then open up the seam
allowances.
a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch
c
Select stitch , or .
d
Turn the fabric over so that the right side
faces up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the
seam.
a Right side of fabric
1
1
1
2
3
74
UTILITY STITCHES
Heirloom stitching
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
a
Insert the wing needle.
Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
For details on inserting a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 32).
b
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
c
Select stitch , , , , , ,
or
.
d
Start sewing.
The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back. For details, refer to “Upper
threading” (page 25).
Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less, otherwise the needle may bend or
break.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn
the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
does not touch the presser foot. If the needle
hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or
break.
CAUTION
CAUTION
75
3
SEWING CHARACTERS (for models equipped with character stitches)
55 characters can be sewn by following the procedure below.
Sewing beautiful patterns
In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following
must be considered.
Fabric
Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics
with a coarse weave, affix stabilizer material to
the wrong side of the fabric or place a thin sheet
of paper, such as tracing paper, under the fabric.
Since material puckering or bunched stitches may
occur when satin stitches are sewn, be sure to
affix stabilizer material to the fabric.
Needles and threads
When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch
fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing
thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine
needle. In addition, #50 to #60 thread should be
used.
Trial sewing
Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric
being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material
is used, the desired result may not be achieved.
Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before sewing
your project. In addition, while sewing, be sure to
guide the fabric with your hands in order to
prevent the fabric from slipping.
76
UTILITY STITCHES
Selecting characters
Selecting a character
[Example] Selecting stitch “C” (No. 03).
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Confirm that the character stitch indicator is
lit. If it is not lit, press the character stitch key
to turn on the character stitch indicator.
a Character stitch key
b Character stitch indicator
Memo
When you select a character, check that
there are no characters in memory.
a This indicator shows that no character is stored.
If there are any characters in memory,
delete them. (For details, refer to “Deleting
characters”
(page 79)
.)
c
Confirm that the desired stitch type number is
displayed on the LCD. If it is not, press the
character stitch key once or more until the
desired stitch type number is displayed on the
LCD.
a Character stitch key
b Stitch type number
d
Press (stitch selection keys) to select
pattern No. 03.
For details, refer to step
d of
“Selecting a
stitch” (page 39)
.
e
Press the “+” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to enter the selected
character.
a Stitch width adjustment key
X The following display is shown on the
LCD.
a Selected pattern No.
b The position of the selected pattern No.
c The total number of entered characters
f
Attach the presser foot indicated on the LCD.
a The presser foot to use
For details, refer to
“Replacing the presser
foot” (page 36)
.
g
If you would like to only sew this single
character, start sewing.
If you would like to sew a sequence of
characters, see the following procedure.
For details on sewing characters, refer to
“Sewing the character stitches” (page 79).
Stitch type
number
Stitch type
1 Character stitches (Gothic font)
2 Character stitches (Script font)
3 Character stitches (Outline style)
a
b
a
77
3
Combining characters
You can easily sew names, messages, etc. by
combining the character stitches. Up to 35
characters can be combined.
[Example] Selecting stitches “COME”
(No. 03)+(No. 15)+(No. 13)+(No. 05)
a
Follow steps a through f in “Selecting a
character” (page 76) to select the first
character “C” (No. 03).
b
Press (stitch selection keys) to select the
next character, “O” (No. 15).
c
Press the “+” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to enter the selected
character.
a Stitch width adjustment key
d
Repeat steps b and c to add “M” (No. 13)
and “E” (No. 05).
Memo
To enter a space, select “_” (No. 30).
e
When you have finished combining
characters, check the entered characters and
their order.
For details on checking characters, refer to
“Checking characters” (page 79).
Memo
A new character can only be added next to
the last character. You cannot insert a new
character between characters or before the
first character of the sequence.
f
After checking the entered characters, start
sewing.
For details on sewing characters, refer to
“Sewing the character stitches” (page 79).
Memo
The combination of characters will be
stored in memory even if you turn off the
machine.
78
UTILITY STITCHES
Adding new characters after sewing
After sewing a combination of characters, you
can add characters to the combination using the
following method.
Memo
When you have finished sewing, the pattern
No. of the first character in the current
combination is shown on the LCD.
a
Press the utility stitch key.
(Do not skip this step.)
a Utility Stitch key
b
Press the character stitch key and confirm that
the character stitch indicator is lit.
a Character stitch key
b Character stitch indicator
c
If necessary, press the character stitch key
once or more to select the desired stitch type
(until the target stitch type number is
displayed on the LCD.)
a Character stitch key
b Stitch type number
d
Add new characters by following the
procedure described in “Combining
characters” (page 77).
X New characters are added next to the
last character of the combination.
Making a new combination of characters after
sewing
Memo
When you have finished sewing, the pattern
No. of the first character in the current
combination is shown on the LCD.
a
Select the first character of the new
combination.
b
Press the “+” side of (stitch width
adjustment key).
a Stitch width adjustment key
X The old combination of characters is
cleared from memory, and the pattern
No. shown in the LCD is entered as the
first character of a new combination.
c
Add characters by following the procedure
described in “Combining characters”
(page 77).
a
a
b
a
79
3
Checking characters
You can check the characters in a combination with
following method.
a
Press the “+” or “-” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) repeatedly.
This will display the characters that have been
entered one by one on the LCD.
You can check the pattern No. and position of
each character.
a Stitch length adjustment key
b The position of the selected pattern No.
c The total number of characters in the
combination
d Selected pattern No.
Deleting characters
You can delete characters from the combination.
a
Press “-” side of (stitch width
adjustment key) to delete the last character in
the combination.
a Stitch width adjustment key
X The last character will be deleted.
Memo
Repeat step a to delete more characters.
You can only delete the last character in a
combination.
Sewing the character stitches
All character stitches are sewn with monogramming
foot “N”.
a
Select a character stitch.
For details, refer to “Selecting characters”
(page 76).
b
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 36).
c
Start sewing.
X The stitch is sewn in the direction
indicated by the arrow.
Memo
When sewing characters, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches
for each character.
While sewing, the LCD shows the pattern
No. currently being sewn.
d
When you have finished sewing, use scissors
to trim off any excess threads at the beginning
of the stitching and between the characters.
80
UTILITY STITCHES
ADJUSTING STITCHES (for models equipped with character stitches)
Your stitch pattern may sometimes turn out poorly, depending on the type or thickness of fabric, the stabilizer
material used, sewing speed, etc. If your sewing does not turn out well, sew trial stitches using the same
conditions as the real sewing, and adjust the stitch pattern as shown below.
Memo
The character stitches “034” (No. 31 + No.
34+ No. 35) are used for making
adjustments.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 36).
b
Combine the character stitches “034” (No. 31
+ No. 34 + No. 35).
For details, refer to “Combining characters”
(page 77).
X When you have finished creating the
combination, the following is displayed
on the LCD.
c
Sew the combination of characters and check
how it turns out.
For details, refer to “Sewing the character
stitches” (page 79).
A: Correctly sewn
(with proper spaces between characters)
B: Bunched or shapeless
(There is no space between characters.)
C: Overstretched
(The stitch “0” has a gap.)
If the pattern you sewed does not look like A,
use the following steps to adjust the stitches.
d
Select No. 59 (for making adjustments).
X The LCD goes into the stitch adjustment
mode. The total number of combined
characters (1) changes to
--.
e
Adjust the character stitches by pressing
(stitch length adjustment key).
Each press of “+” or “-” side of (stitch
length adjustment key) widens or narrows the
stitches.
a No. for making adjustments
b The stitch adjustment level
c Widens the stitches
d Narrows the stitches
If the pattern is bunched (B)
Press the “+” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) to widen the stitch.
If the pattern is overstretched
(The stitch “0” has a gap.) (C)
Press the “-” side of (stitch length
adjustment key) to narrow the stitch.
Memo
The stitch adjustment level can be set
between -9 and 9.
The setting is saved in memory even if you
turn off the machine.
A
B
C
81
3
f
Sew the characters “034” again.
Memo
You can sew when you are in the stitch
adjustment mode.
If the stitch pattern still comes out poorly,
adjust the stitch again. Adjust the stitch until
the stitch pattern comes out correctly.
g
After you have finished adjusting the pattern,
press the stitch category selection key three
times.
X The display returns to the normal
character stitching mode.
82
APPENDIX
4 APPENDIX
STITCH SETTINGS
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility and mirror
image stitches in the following table.
Utility stitches
When using the twin needle, select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less, otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be damaged.
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the
machine may be damaged.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Straight
Left
J00
Basic stitching, sewing gathers or
pintucks, etc.
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
J01
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Reinf.
Center
J02
Attaching zippers, basic stitching,
and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
Triple stretch
stitch
J03
Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams,
sewing stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Stretch stitch J04
Sewing stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
1.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Zigzag stitch J 05 Overcasting and attaching appliqués
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
*
Yes
Rev.
3-point zigzag
stitch
J06
Overcasting on medium weight or
stretch fabrics, attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Overcasting
stitch
G07
Overcasting on thin or medium
weight fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
G 08 Overcasting on thick fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
G09
Overcasting on thick fabrics and
decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
CAUTION
*Do not use reverse stitching. **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
83
4
Overcasting
stitch
J 10 Overcasting on stretch fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J11
Overcasting on thick or stretch
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J12
Overcasting on stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Blind hem stitch
R13
Blind hem stitching on medium
weight fabrics
0 (0)
-3 3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Reinf.
R14
Blind hem stitching on stretch
fabrics
0 (0)
-3 3
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No No Reinf.
Appliqué stitch J 15 Appliqué stitching
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Shell tuck stitch J 16 Shell tuck stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Satin scallop
stitch
N 17 Scallop stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Joining stitch
J18
Patchwork stitching and decorative
stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J19
Patchwork stitching, decorative
stitching and sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabrics, such as with
tricot
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J20
Patchwork stitching and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Smocking stitch J21
Smocking stitching and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Fagoting stitch
J22
Fagoting, smocking and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J23
Fagoting, smocking and decorative
stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Elastic-attaching
stitch
J 24 Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Decorative stitch
J 25 Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
J 26 Decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J 27 Decorative stitching
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
84
APPENDIX
Decorative stitch
N
28
Decorative stitching and elastic-
attaching
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/64–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
N29
Lace sewing, decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N30
Decorative hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N31
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N32
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N33
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N34
Decorative hemming on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N35
Decorative stitching, smocking
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N36
Decorative stitching, smocking
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Buttonhole stitch
A37
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and
medium weight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A38
Secured buttonholes for fabrics that
have backings
5.0 (3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.5 (1/32)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A39
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.0 (1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A 40 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.5 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A 41 Bound buttonholes
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A42
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A43
Keyhole buttonholes for medium
weight and thick fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
A44
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
furry fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
Bar tack stitch A45
Reinforcing openings and areas
where the seam easily comes loose
2.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4 (1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No No
***
Auto
Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. ***Auto Reinf.:Automatic Reinforcement
85
4
Piecing straight
stitch
J46
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5mm from the right
edge of the presser foot)
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Reinf.
J47
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5mm from the
left edge of the presser foot)
1.5 (1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No Yes Reinf.
Hand-look
quilting
J48
Straight stitch quilting that looks
hand-sewn
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
J49
Appliqué quilting, freemotion
quilting, satin stitching, button
sewing
3.5 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Yes Reinf.
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
J 50 Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
J 51 Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.5–3.5
(1/32–1/8)
1.8 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Quilting
stippling
J52
Quilting background stitching
(stippling)
7.0 (1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Decorative stitch
N53
Decorative stitching, smocking
stitching, heirloom stitching, etc.
2.5 (3/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 54 For decoration, etc.
3.0 (1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 55 For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 56 For decoration, etc.
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 57 For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 58 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 59 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 60 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 61 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 62 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 63 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
86
APPENDIX
Decorative stitch
N 64 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 65 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 66 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 67 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 68 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 69 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 70 For decoration, etc.
2.5 (3/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 71 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 72 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 73 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 74 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 75 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 76 For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 77 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 78 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 79 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 80 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
87
4
Decorative stitch
N 81 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 82 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
Cross-stitches
N 83 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 84 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 85 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 86 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 87 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 88 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 89 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 90 For decoration, etc. - - No No Reinf.
N 91 For decoration, etc. - - No No Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
88
APPENDIX
Decorative satin
stitches
N 92 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 93 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 94 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 95 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 96 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 97 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 98 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 99 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
89
4
Satin stitches
Presser foot: N
Application: For decoration, etc.
Stitch Width [mm (inch)]
Auto: 7.0 (1/4)
Manual: 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
Stitch Length [mm (inch)]
Auto: 0.4 (1/64)
Manual: 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16)
Twin Needle: **Yes (J)
Walking Foot: No
Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching: Reinforcement
*: Pattern Length Icon definition
**: Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Pattern
Length*
Pattern No.
Pattern
00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47
48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63
64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79
Shorter Longer
(Standard)
90
APPENDIX
Mirror image stitches
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Stretch stitch J00
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0 (1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5 (3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Overcasting
stitch
J01
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J02
Overcasting on thick or stretch
fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
J03
Overcasting on stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Appliqué
stitch
J 04 Appliqué stitching
3.5 (1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Shell tuck
stitch
J 05 Shell tuck stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Satin scallop
stitch
N 06 Scallop stitching
5.0 (3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
Decorative
stitch
J 07 Decorative stitching
5.5 (7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
**
Yes
( J )
No Reinf.
N08
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom
stitching, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 09 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 10 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 11 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 12 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 13 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 14 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
**Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
91
4
Decorative
stitch
N 15 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 16 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 17 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 18 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 19 For decoration, etc.
5.0 (3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 20 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 21 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 22 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 23 For decoration, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 24 For decoration, etc.
6.0 (15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No No Reinf.
N 25 For decoration, etc. - - No No Reinf.
N 26 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 27 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 28 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
N 29 For decoration, etc. -
0.3 (1/64)
0.2–0.4
(1/64–1/64)
No No Reinf.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Presser Foot
Pattern
No.
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Walking Foot
Reverse
(
Rev.
)
/
Reinforcement
(
Reinf.
)
Stitching
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
92
APPENDIX
Presser foot: N
Application: For decoration, etc.
Stitch Width [mm (inch)]
Auto: 7.0 (1/4)
Manual: 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4)
Stitch Length [mm (inch)]
Auto: 0.4 (1/64)
Manual: 0.1-1.0 (1/64-1/16)
Twin Needle: **Yes (J)
Walking Foot: No
Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching: Reinforcement
*: Pattern Length Icon definition
**: Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less.
Pattern
Length*
Stitch
Name
Satin
stitches
Pattern No.
Pattern
30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37
38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45
46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53
54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61
62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69
Shorter Longer
(Standard)
93
4
Character stitches
Stitch Type
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Twin Needle
Stitch Width/
Stitch Length
Character stitches
(Gothic font)
N
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
No -
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
Stitch Type
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Twin Needle
Stitch Width/
Stitch Length
Character stitches
(Script font)
N
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
No -
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
94
APPENDIX
Stitch Type
Presser Foot
Pattern No.
Twin Needle
Stitch Width/
Stitch Length
Character stitches
(Outline style)
N
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10
No -
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
51 52 53 54 55
95
4
MAINTENANCE
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Restrictions on oiling
In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must
not be oiled by the user.
This machine was manufactured with the necessary
amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation,
making periodic oiling unnecessary.
If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the
handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop
using the machine, and contact your authorized
dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Precautions on storing the
machine
Do not store the machine in any of the locations
described below, otherwise damage to the machine
may result, for example, rust caused by condensation.
Exposed to extremely high temperatures
Exposed to extremely low temperatures
Exposed to extreme temperature changes
Exposed to high humidity or steam
Near a flame, heater or air conditioner
Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight
Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments
Note
In order to extend the life of this machine,
periodically turn it on and use it.
Storing this machine for an extended period
of time without using it may reduce its
efficiency.
Cleaning the machine
surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.
Cleaning the race
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
race therefore, it should be cleaned periodically.
a
Switch the machine off and unplug it.
b
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
c
Loosen the presser-foot screw and the needle
clamp screw to remove the presser-foot
holder and the needle.
d
Slide the needle plate cover release toward
you to remove the needle plate cover.
a Needle plate cover
b Needle plate cover release
Unplug the power supply cord before
cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
CAUTION
Make sure you unplug the machine before
you clean it. Otherwise, you may get an
electric shock or be injured.
CAUTION
96
APPENDIX
e
Remove the bobbin case.
Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
a Bobbin case
f
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
Note
Do not put oil on the race.
g
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
machine.
Align the S and z marks.
a S mark
b z mark
c Bobbin case
Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.
CAUTION
97
4
h
As shown, insert the tab on the needle plate
cover into the hole in the needle plate, and
then correctly position of the needle plate
cover.
a Needle plate cover
b Tab
c Hole
Check that the needle plate cover is flush
with the top surface of the machine.
i
From the front, slide the needle plate cover
back into position.
a Needle plate cover
If the needle plate cover is not flush with the
surface of the machine as shown below,
remove the needle plate cover (step
d), and
then install it again (steps h and i). Sewing
while the needle plate cover is not flush with
the surface of the machine may cause the
needle plate cover to come off of the
machine, resulting in injuries if your fingers
touch the race.
CAUTION
98
APPENDIX
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the
latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://support.brother.com/
” .
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Frequent troubleshooting topics
Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting topics are described below. Be sure to refer to this
before contacting us.
Upper thread tightened up
Symptom
The upper thread appears as a single
continuous line.
The lower thread is visible from the upper
side of the fabric. (Refer to the illustration
below.)
The upper thread has tightened up, and
comes out when pulled.
The upper thread has tightened up, and
wrinkles appear in the fabric.
The upper thread tension is tight, and the
results do not change even after the thread
tension is adjusted.
a Lower side of fabric
b Lower thread visible from upper side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Upper side of fabric
e Lower thread
Cause
Incorrect lower threading
If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded, instead
of the appropriate tension being applied to the
lower thread, it is pulled through the fabric when
the upper thread is pulled up. For this reason, the
thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
Remedy/check details
Correctly install the lower thread.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.
c
Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that
the thread unwinds in the correct direction.
Hold the bobbin with your right hand with
the thread unwinding to the left, and hold
the end of the thread with your left hand.
Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin
in the bobbin case.
If the bobbin is inserted with the thread
unwinding in the wrong direction, sewing will be
done with an incorrect thread tension.
Upper thread tightened up page 98
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric page 99
Incorrect thread tension page 102
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed page 103
Error message “E6” appears in the LCD page 107
99
4
d
While holding the bobbin in place with your
finger, pass the thread through the slit in the
needle plate.
Hold down the bobbin with your right hand,
and then pull the end of the thread around
the tab with your left hand.
a Tab
b Hold down the bobbin with your right hand.
On models equipped with the quick-set bobbin,
pull the thread to pass it through the slit in the
needle plate, then cut it with the cutter.
c Slit
d Cutter
Sewing with the correct thread tension is possible
after the bobbin has been correctly installed in the
bobbin case.
Tangled thread on wrong
side of fabric
Symptom
The thread becomes tangled on the lower
side of the fabric.
After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made
and sewing cannot continue.
Looking under the fabric, there is tangled
thread in the bobbin case.
Cause
Incorrect upper threading
If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the
upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be
firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes
tangled in the bobbin case, causing a rattling
noise.
Remedy/check details
Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the
upper threading.
a
Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be
removed, cut the thread with scissors.
For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on
page 95.
b
Remove the upper thread from the machine.
c
Refer to the following steps to correct the
upper threading.
If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin
case, refer to “Lower threading” (page 22)
and “Remedy/check details” in the section
“Upper thread tightened up” (page 98) to
correctly install the bobbin.
100
APPENDIX
d
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
lever.
a Presser foot lever
If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.
e
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up, or press
(needle position button) (for models
equipped with the needle position button)
once or twice to raise the needle.
a Mark
b Needle position button
f
Pull some thread off the spool, and then pass
the thread under the thread guide.
a Thread guide
g
Pass the thread under the thread guide cover
from the back to the front.
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
and then pass the thread under the thread
guide cover with your left hand.
a Thread guide cover
h
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
illustration below.
or
101
4
i
Make sure you guide the thread through the
thread take-up lever from right to left as
shown in the illustration below.
Sewing is possible only if the thread is securely
hooked on the thread take-up lever.
a Thread take-up lever
Make sure that the thread is securely hooked
on the thread take-up lever.
j
Put the thread behind the needle bar thread
guide above the needle.
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand.
a Needle bar thread guide
k
Thread the needle according to steps m and
n in “Upper threading” (page 28) or steps b
through
i in “Using the needle threader (for
models equipped with the needle threader)”
(page 28).
1
102
APPENDIX
Incorrect thread tension
Symptoms
Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric.
Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric.
Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric.
Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.
Cause/remedy/check details
Cause 1
The machine is not correctly threaded.
<With symptoms 1 and 2 described above>
The lower threading is incorrect.
Return the upper tension-control dial to “4”,
and then refer to “Upper thread tightened up”
(page 98) to correct the threading.
<With symptoms 3 through 5 described
above>
The upper threading is incorrect.
Return the upper tension-control dial to “4”,
and then refer to “Tangled thread on wrong
side of fabric” (page 99) to correct the upper
threading.
Cause 2
A needle and thread appropriate for the
fabric are not being used.
The sewing machine needle that should be
used depends on the type of fabric sewn and
the thread thickness.
If a needle and thread appropriate for the
fabric are not being used, the thread tension
will not be adjusted correctly, causing
wrinkles in the fabric or skipped stitches.
Refer to “Needle types and their uses”
(page 31) to check that a needle and thread
appropriate for the fabric are being used.
Cause 3
An appropriate setting on the upper tension-control dial is not selected.
Turn the upper tension-control dial to select an appropriate thread tension.
The appropriate thread tension differs according to the type of fabric and thread being used.
* Adjust the thread tension while test sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used in
your project.
Note
If the upper threading and lower threading are incorrect, the thread tension cannot be adjusted
correctly, even by turning the upper tension-control dial. Check the upper threading and lower
threading first, and then adjust the thread tension.
When the lower thread is visible from the
upper side of the fabric. Turn the upper
tension-control dial to a lower number
(toward the left). (Loosen the thread tension.)
When the upper thread is visible from the
lower side of the fabric. Turn the upper
tension-control dial to a higher number
(toward the right). (Tighten the thread
tension.)
Symptom 1 Symptom 3
a Lower side of fabric
b Lower thread visible from
upper side of fabric
c Upper thread
d Upper side of fabric
e Lower thread
f Upper thread visible from
lower side of fabric
4
3
5
4
3
5
103
4
Fabric is caught in the
machine and cannot be
removed
If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and
cannot be removed, the thread may have become
tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure
described below to remove the fabric from the
machine. If the operation could not be completed
according to the procedure, instead of attempting to
complete it forcefully, contact your nearest
authorized service center.
Removing the fabric from the machine
a
Immediately stop the sewing machine.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Remove the needle.
If the needle is lowered into the fabric, turn the
handwheel away from you (clockwise) to raise
the needle out of the fabric, and then remove
the needle.
Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
d
Remove the presser foot and presser foot
holder.
Refer to “Replacing the presser foot”
(page 36) and “Removing the presser foot
holder” (page 37).
e
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it.
If the fabric can be removed, remove it.
Continue with the following steps to clean the
race.
f
Remove the needle plate cover.
a Needle plate cover release
b Needle plate cover (front part)
g
Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove
the bobbin.
h
Remove the bobbin case.
If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove
them.
a Bobbin case
i
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
a Cleaning brush
b Race
If the fabric could be removed
Continue to step
p.
If the fabric could not be removed
Continue to step
j.
104
APPENDIX
j
Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to
loosen the two screws on the needle plate.
Note
Be careful not to drop the removed screws
in the machine.
k
Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any
tangled threads, and then remove the needle
plate.
Remove the fabric and threads from the needle
plate.
If the fabric cannot be removed, even after
completing these steps, contact your nearest
authorized service center.
l
Remove any threads in the race and around
the feed dogs.
m
Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
n
Align the two screw holes in the needle plate
with the two holes at the needle plate
mounting base, and then fit the needle plate
onto the machine.
o
Lightly finger-tighten the screw on the right
side of the needle plate. Then, use the disc-
shaped screwdriver to firmly tighten the
screw on the left side. Finally, firmly tighten
the screw on the right side.
Turn the handwheel to check that the feed
dogs move smoothly and do not contact the
edges of the slots in the needle plate.
a Correct position of feed dogs
b Incorrect position of feed dogs
Note
Be careful not to drop the removed screws
in the machine.
105
4
p
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
machine.
Align the S and z marks.
a S mark
b z mark
c Bobbin case
Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
q
Attach the needle plate cover according to
steps h and i in “Cleaning the race”
(page 97).
r
Check the condition of the needle, and then
install it.
If the needle is in a poor condition, for
example, if it is bent, be sure to install a new
needle.
Refer to “Checking the needle” (page 32)
and “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
Note
After completing this procedure, continue
with the following procedure in “Checking
machine operations” to check that the
machine is operating correctly.
Memo
Since the needle may have been damaged
when the fabric was caught in the machine,
we recommend replacing it with a new one.
Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your
nearest authorized service center.
Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may break.
CAUTION
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
CAUTION
106
APPENDIX
Checking machine operations
If the needle plate has been removed, check
machine operations to confirm that installation
has been completed correctly.
a
Turn on the machine.
b
Select (middle needle position stitch).
Note
Do not yet install the presser foot and
thread.
c
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise), and look from all sides to
check that the needle falls at the center of the
hole in the needle plate.
If the needle contacts the needle plate, remove
the needle plate, and then install it again,
starting with step
m in “Removing the fabric
from the machine” (page 104).
a Hole in the needle plate
b Handwheel
d
Select zigzag stitch . At this time, increase
the stitch length and width to their maximum
settings.
For details on changing the settings, refer to
“Adjusting the stitch length and width”
(page 40).
e
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the needle
bar and feed dogs operate correctly.
If the needle or feed dogs contact the needle
plate, the machine may be malfunctioning;
therefore, contact your nearest authorized
service center.
f
Turn off the machine, and then install the
bobbin and presser foot.
Refer to “Lower threading” (page 22) and
“Replacing the presser foot” (page 36).
g
Correctly thread the machine.
For details on threading the machine, refer to
“Upper threading” (page 25).
Note
The thread may have become tangled as a
result of incorrect upper threading. Make
sure that the machine is correctly threaded.
h
Perform trial sewing with normal fabric.
Note
Incorrect sewing may be the result of
incorrect upper threading or sewing thin
fabrics. If there are poor results from the trial
sewing, check the upper threading or the
type of fabric being used.
107
4
Error message “E6”
appears in the LCD
If the error message “E6” appears in the LCD with the
occurrence of one of the following symptoms, follow
the procedure below to solve the problem.
Symptom 1 : The machine rattles and then stops
just after sewing is started.
Symptom 2 : The upper thread is tangled, for
example, in the race, or fabric is
caught in the machine.
Symptom 3 : The needle breaks, or the needle
bends and thus hits the needle plate.
Symptom 4 : The fabric is not fed.
Symptom 1 :
The machine rattles and then stops
just after sewing is started.
Cause
The upper thread is not threaded correctly.
The thread take-up lever is not threaded.
* When the machine stops just after sewing is
started, the upper thread may not be threaded
correctly.
Note
If the needle is not raised, the upper thread
cannot be threaded correctly. Be sure to
press the needle position button to raise the
needle before threading the upper thread.
Remedy
Thread the upper thread again correctly by
following the procedure below.
a
Turn off the machine.
b
If the thread is tangled, remove the tangled
thread.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95) and
“Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric”
(page 99).
c
Remove the upper thread from the machine.
d
Turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) to check if the handwheel
moves smoothly.
e
Remove the needle plate cover, and then
remove the bobbin and bobbin case.
f
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
machine.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).
g
Attach the needle plate cover.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).
h
Set the bobbin in the bobbin case.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).
i
If the needle is bent, replace it with a new
one.
Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
j
Turn on the machine, and then press the
needle position button to raise the needle.
Refer to “Upper threading” (page 25).
k
Thread the machine correctly.
For details on threading the machine, refer to
“Upper threading” (page 25).
Symptom 2 :
The upper thread is tangled, for
example, in the race, or fabric is
caught in the machine.
Cause
Thread is tangled below the needle plate.
Remedy
Remove the fabric and reset the thread and
bobbin by following the procedure below.
a
Turn off the machine.
b
Remove the fabric from the machine.
Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and
cannot be removed” (page 103).
If the handwheel moves smoothly
Continue to step
j.
If the handwheel does not move smoothly
Continue to step
e.
108
APPENDIX
c
Remove the upper thread and bobbin.
Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and
cannot be removed” (page 103).
d
Remove the bobbin case.
Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and
cannot be removed” (page 103).
e
If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove
it.
Refer to “Fabric is caught in the machine and
cannot be removed” (page 103).
f
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
machine.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).
g
Attach the needle plate cover.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).
h
Set the bobbin in the bobbin case.
Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 95).
i
If the needle is bent, replace it with a new
one.
Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
j
Turn on the machine, and then press the
needle position button to raise the needle.
Refer to “Upper threading” (page 25).
k
Thread the machine correctly.
For details on threading the machine, refer to
“Upper threading” (page 25).
Symptom 3 :
The needle breaks, or the needle
bends and thus hits the needle
plate.
Cause
You have not used the right combination of
fabric, thread and needle.
Remedy
Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate
for the type of fabric.
Refer to “Needle types and their uses”
(page 31).
Symptom 4 :
The fabric is not fed.
Cause
The thread has become clogged as the stitch is too
fine.
Remedy
Lengthen the stitch length.
Refer to “Adjusting the stitch length and width”
(page 40).
109
4
List of symptoms
Before sewing
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The needle
threader can not
be used. (For
models equipped
with the needle
threader lever.)
You have not moved the needle
holder to its highest position.
Raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up or by pressing
(needle position button) once or
twice.
page 25
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32
The sewing light
does not come on.
The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 14
Bobbin thread
does not wind
neatly on the bob-
bin.
The thread is not passed through the
bobbin-winding thread guide
correctly.
Correctly pass the thread through the
bobbin-winding thread guide.
page 19
Bobbin spins slowly. (for models
equipped with the sewing speed
controller.)
Move the sewing speed controller to
the right (so that the speed will be
fast).
page 21
The thread that was pulled out was
not wound onto the bobbin correctly.
(For models equipped with the fast
bobbin winding system.)
Wind the thread that was pulled off
round the bobbin five or six times
clockwise.
page 20
The thread does
not pass through
the eye of the nee-
dle. (For models
equipped with the
needle threader
lever.)
You have not moved the needle
holder to its highest position.
Raise the needle either by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark
on the wheel points up or by pressing
(needle position button) once or
twice.
page 25
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32
The needle
threader lever
does not lower to
the correct
position. (For
models equipped
with the needle
threader lever.)
The needle has not been raised to the
correct position.
Press the needle position button. page 25
While winding the
bobbin, the
bobbin thread was
wound below the
bobbin winder
seat.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
After removing the thread wound
below the bobbin winder seat, wind
the bobbin correctly.
page 17
110
APPENDIX
While sewing
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The sewing
machine does not
work.
The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 14
The main power switch is turned off. Turn on the main power switch. page 14
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to
the right.
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
left.
page 20, 21
You have not used the foot controller
properly.
Use the foot controller properly. page 14
The foot controller or the start/stop
button was not pressed (for models
equipped with the start/stop button).
Press the foot controller or the start/
stop button.
page 42
The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. page 41
The start/stop button was pressed,
even though the foot controller is
connected. (for models equipped
with the start/stop button)
Do not use the start/stop button when
the foot controller is connected. To
use the start/stop button, disconnect
the foot controller.
page 42
Fabric being
sewn with the
machine cannot
be removed.
Thread is tangled below the needle
plate.
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads
below it, and clean the race.
page 103
The needle
breaks.
The spool or spool cap is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the spool or spool
cap.
page 26
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading. page 25
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32
The needle clamp screw is loose.
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to
firmly tighten the screw.
page 33
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32
You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and
needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 31
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
page 82
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 43
You are pulling the fabric too much. Lightly guide the fabric.
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
The bobbin case is scratched.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 17
111
4
The upper thread
breaks.
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly. (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the needle
bar thread guide.)
Correct the upper threading. Use the
spool cap that best fits the size of the
spool being used.
page 25
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
The needle is not appropriate for the
thread you are using.
Choose a needle that is appropriate
for the type of stitch.
page 31
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 43
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the race.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the race, clean the
race.
page 95, 99
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 32
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
The bobbin case is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorised service center.
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 17
The lower thread
is tangled or
breaks.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 17
The bobbin is scratched or does not
turn smoothly.
Replace the bobbin.
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread and clean
the race.
page 95, 99
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 17
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 22, 23
The fabric is
wrinkled.
You have not threaded the upper thread
properly or fitted the bobbin properly.
Thread the upper thread and wind the
bobbin thread properly.
page 22, 23, 25
The spool or spool cap is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the spool or spool
cap.
page 26
You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and
needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 31
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too long or the fabric is not
being fed correctly.
Sew with the stabilizer material under
the fabric.
page 46
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too coarse.
Shorten the stitch length, or sew with
stabilizer material under the fabric.
page 40, 46
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
112
APPENDIX
The fabric is
wrinkled.
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
page 82
The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 43, 102
Stitches are
skipped.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 25
You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and
needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 31
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
page 32
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the race.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the plate and the race.
page 95
There is a high-
pitched noise
while sewing.
Dust has built up in the feed dogs or
in the race.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the plate and the race.
page 95
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 25
The bobbin case is scratched.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
You have not used bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 17
The fabric does
not feed.
The feed dogs are lowered.
Slide the feed dog position lever to .
page 57, 67
The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 40
You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and
needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 31
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the race.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the race, clean the
race.
page 95, 99
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
page 82
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 32
Zigzag foot “J” is slanted on a thick
seam at the beginning of stitching.
Use the presser foot locking pin
(black button on the left side) on
zigzag foot “J” to keep the presser foot
level while sewing.
page 45
The fabric feeds
in the opposite
direction.
The feed mechanism is damaged.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
113
4
After sewing
Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Reference
The upper thread
has tightened up.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22, 98
The thread
tension is
incorrect.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 25
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly. page 17
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22
You have not threaded the right com-
bination of thread and needle for the
fabric you are using.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
page 31
You have not attached the presser-
foot holder properly.
Attach the presser-foot holder
properly.
page 37
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 43, 102
You have not used a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin that has
been designed for this machine.
page 17
Bobbin is set incorrectly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. page 22, 23
The thread is
tangled on the
wrong side of the
fabric.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading. page 25, 99
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
page 82
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 43, 102
The thread is tangled, for example, in
the race.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the race, clean the
race.
page 95, 99
The stitch adjustment level is
incorrect.
Adjust the stitch. page 80
114
APPENDIX
ERROR MESSAGES
If an operation is performed incorrectly before the sewing machine is set up, an error message appears on the
operation panel. Follow the instructions indicated in the table.
If you press the stitch selection key or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the
message disappears.
Operation beep
Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If a non-functioning key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed you will hear two or four beeps (only for models equipped with the operation beep).
If a key is pressed (correct operation)
One beep sounds.
If an incorrect operation is performed or a non-functioning key is pressed
Two or four beeps sound.
If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled
The sewing machine beeps for four seconds and the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the
cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.
Error Message Probable Cause Solution
The foot controller was pressed (or the start/
stop button was pressed if the foot controller is
not connected) and the reverse/reinforcement
stitch button was pressed while the presser
foot is raised.
Lower the presser foot lever before
continuing the operation.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack
stitch was selected and the foot controller was
pressed (or the start/stop button was pressed if
the foot controller is not connected) while the
buttonhole lever is lowered.
Raise the buttonhole lever before
continuing the operation.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected
and the foot controller was pressed (or the
start/stop button was pressed if the foot
controller is not connected) while the
buttonhole lever is raised.
Lower the buttonhole lever before
continuing the operation.
The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or
needle position button was pressed while the
bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left
before continuing the operation.
The start/stop button was pressed while the
foot controller was connected.
Disconnect the foot controller, and then
press the start/stop button. Otherwise,
operate the machine by using the foot
controller.
The motor locked up because the thread
became tangled, or the needle bent and thus
hit the needle plate.
Clean the race to remove the tangled
thread (page 95).
Check the needle. If the needle is bent or
broken, replace the needle (page 32).
If both of the above fail, refer to “Error
message “E6” appears in the LCD” (page
107).
The machine may be malfunctioning.
Contact your nearest authorized service
center.
115
4
i
INDEX
Numerics
3-point zigzag stitch .......................................................47
A
accessories .......................................................................6
adjusting stitches ............................................................80
appliqués .......................................................................63
B
bar tack ..........................................................................68
basic stitching ................................................................49
blind hem stitching.........................................................50
bobbin ...........................................................................22
bobbin case....................................................................23
bobbin cover......................................................9
, 22, 23
bobbin winder.........................8
, 17, 20, 109, 110, 114
button sewing.................................................................57
buttonhole foot........................................................54
, 68
buttonhole lever .................................................9
, 55, 69
buttonhole sewing..........................................................53
C
character stitch indicator .........................................10, 76
character stitch key .................................................10
, 76
checking characters........................................................79
combining characters .....................................................77
crazy quilt stitching ........................................................64
D
darning....................................................................47, 61
deleting characters .........................................................79
E
elastic tape .....................................................................61
error messages..............................................................114
extra spool pin ...............................................................34
eyelet punch ..................................................................56
F
fagoting ..........................................................................71
fast bobbin winding........................................................20
feed dog position lever .......................................8
, 57, 67
feed dogs............................................................9
, 57, 67
flat bed attachment...............................................7
, 8, 46
flip chart.........................................................................12
foot controller ....................................................6
, 14, 41
free-motion quilting........................................................66
H
handwheel ................................................................8, 41
heirloom stitching ..........................................................74
hook-and-loop fastener ..................................................45
J
joining............................................................................73
joining stitch ...........................................................63
, 70
M
main parts ........................................................................8
main power switch.........................................................14
monogramming.......................................................72
, 74
N
needle ............................................................................31
needle bar thread guide.............................................9
, 28
needle clamp screw ..................................................9
, 33
needle plate .....................................................................9
needle plate cover.....................................................9
, 95
needle position...............................................................49
needle position button......................................................9
needle threader .........................................................9
, 28
O
openings ........................................................................68
operation beep ......................................................16
, 114
operation buttons .............................................................9
operation panel ..............................................................10
optional accessories .........................................................7
overcasting stitches ........................................................47
P
patchwork stitching ........................................................64
piecing...........................................................................64
pocket corners................................................................68
presser foot................................................................9
, 36
presser foot holder.....................................................9
, 37
presser foot lever .......................................................9
, 25
Q
quick-set bobbin ................................................9, 23, 30
quilting...........................................................................65
quilting foot....................................................................66
quilting guide .......................................................... 65
, 66
R
race................................................................................95
reinforcement stitching...................................................42
reverse/reinforcement stitch button............................9
, 42
S
scallop stitching .............................................................72
seam ripper ....................................................................56
sewing machine needles ................................................31
sewing speed controller.............................................9
, 15
sewing the character stitches ..........................................79
sleeve holes....................................................................68
smocking........................................................................72
spool cap ....................................................6
, 11, 17, 26
spool pin ..........................................................11
, 17, 25
start/stop button..................................................9
, 41, 42
stitch length....................................................................40
stitch selection key .................................................. 10
, 77
stitch settings..................................................................82
stitch width ....................................................................40
116
APPENDIX
straight stitch ..................................................................49
stretch fabrics .................................................................46
T
thick fabrics....................................................................44
thin fabrics .....................................................................46
thread cutter...................................................................42
thread tension ................................................................43
trial sewing.....................................................................44
triple stretch stitch ..........................................................49
troubleshooting ..............................................................98
twin needle .............................................................33
, 34
U
upper tension-control dial ................................8, 43, 102
upper threading..............................................................25
utility stitch indicator...............................................10
, 39
utility stitch key .......................................................39
, 78
W
walking foot ...................................................................65
wing needle ...................................................................74
Z
zigzag stitch .....................................................44, 47, 63
zipper foot......................................................................59
zipper insertion ..............................................................59
English
885-E42/E43
Printed in China
APPENDIX
UTILITY STITCHES
SEWING BASICS
KNOWING YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
Operation Manual
Product Code: 885-E42/E43
Sewing Machine
XG2315-001
Be sure to read this document before using the machine.
We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.
Please visit us at http://support.brother.com/ where you can get product
support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
Operation Manual
885-E42/E43
Cover1-4
PANTONE 285C K
118


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