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21Buttonholes
Thread tension
· the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole
is selected
· the upper tension is slightly looser than normal
· this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads,
making the buttonhole more attractive
Manual buttonholes
· stitched using Buttonhole foot 3C
· the buttonhole length of manually stitched buttonholes
must be marked on the fabric in the appropriate
position
Automatic buttonholes
· stitched using Automatic buttonhole foot 3A
· mark the length of the first buttonhole
· after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all
subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed
· mark the starting point of all subsequent buttonholes
· Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm
Test sewing
· always sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use with the
same interlining, interfacing, and stabilizers
· select the same buttonhole type
· sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the
fabric (with or against the grain)
Corrections
To adjust the bead width:
· alter the stitch width
Altering the stitch length:
· any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads
(making them more or less dense)
· always stitch a new sample to reprogram the buttonhole after
any changes are made to the stitch length
Balance for automatic buttonholes
· any balance alterations affect both beads
· the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:
· sew straight stitches until the sewing computer
changes to the keyhole or eye, then stop the sewing
computer
· touch "Balance”
if the keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A)
· use the "down” arrow to correct it
if the keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B)
· use the "up” arrow to correct it
· touch "ok” and complete buttonhole
Balance for manual standard buttonholes
· any balance alterations affect both beads
Important information on buttonholes
A
B
185_NA_engl 16.4.2004 15:07 Uhr Seite 23
030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN
107


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