end of the hose to make it pointed. Feed the hose out
through the ventilation drum and the oor. Attach the
ventilation drum to the oor and the boiler by screws.
If the boiler is to be mounted in a wardrobe, for example,
a dividing wall should be mounted so that ammable
material cannot come into contact with any warm parts.
If a water heater and electrical cartridge are mounted on
the boiler, make a hole in the dividing wall (2923 Figure
4 and 2928 Figure 3) in order to gain access to the air-
screw and drainage tap of the water heater and to the
reset button for the overheating protection on the electri-
cal cartridge.
Fig 1
Hole for ventilation duct A.
Hole for inlet pipeB.
Fig 2
Hole for attaching boilerA.
Fresh airB.
Protection for the exhaust pipeC.
Upper front plateD.
Lower front plateE.
Preheated fresh airF.
Carrying handleG.
Fig 3
Inlet pipeA.
FloorB.
Fine mesh nettingC.
Fig 4
Hole for air screw on water heater type 2959.A.
Hole for drain cock on water heater type 2959.B.
Hole for reset button for overheating protection C.
on immersion heater.
Fitting the chimney2:2
Mark out the centre where the hole is to be made (see
g 6). Cut a Ø 125 mm hole in the ceiling and the in-
sulating material and a Ø 82 mm hole in the roof. Then
assemble the parts B,C and G and fasten the nuts H
(see g 5). Then bring the chimney pipe in from under-
neath. Place the boiler (chapter 2) and pull the chimney
pipe down and attach it to the stud on the boiler using a
self-tapping screw.
NB! When the chimney pipe is pulled up or down it
should at the same time be twisted (grease it with suds if
necessary).
Put on the cap and bend the retaining lugs inwards. The
distance from the roof to the cap should be at least 90
mm (see g 2).
The exposed section of the chimney pipe inside must be
protected with mesh or metalsheet so that inammable
material cannot come into direct contact with the ex-
haust pipe (see g 2 C).
Fig 5
CapA.
Flue pipeB.
PlateC.
GasketD.
Outer plate at the roofE.
InsulationF.
CeilingG.
SpacerH.
NutI.
Extension pipeJ.
Fig 6
The boiler from aboveA.
Centre marking for the chimneyB.
LPG installation2:3
The boiler should be attached to an LPG cylinder with
a type-approved regulator with a pressure of 28 mbar
with butane or 37 mbar with propane. A service tap to
cut off the gas supply must be tted before the boiler.
The boiler should be connected with 8 mm copper pipe.
The pipe must be secured carefully at 500 mm intervals
througout its length. If the copper pipe passes through
walls, oors or similar it should be protected against
wear by a grommet or insulation.
If the copper pipe is run under the caravan
(g 7):
In the base plate of the boiler there is a ready-punched
hole for the copper pipe to pass through. Drill a hole
through the oor where the copper pipe is to enter. Pull
the copper pipe up through the oor and the base plate
(don’t forget to protect the pipe against wear). Use a
supporting sleeve, nut and olive (see g 9) and screw
the pipe to the gas connection of the gas valve. Seal the
hole in the oor with silicon or similar.
If the copper pipe is run inside the caravan
(g 8):
Remove the disc on the right or left-hand side of the
metal case, depending on which side the copper pipe
comes from. Cut a hole in the rubber washer and attach
it where the disc was. Push the copper pipe through and
pull it up in a gentle curve to the gas valve. Use a nut
and olive (see g 9) and screw the pipe to the connec-
tion of the gas valve on the burner.
Figs 7-8-9
Support sleeveA.
OliveB.
NutC.
8 mm copper pipeD.
Rubber grommetE.
Pipe clipF.
Service tapG.
