STARTING A FREE-STANDING FIREPLACE/STOVE
The so-called top-down lighting is the only correct and recommended method of starting fireplaces and
free-standing stoves. STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE 1.
MATERIAL NEEDED -A few larger wooden billets (split; max. humidity 20%; approx. 10-13 cm) - a handful
of splints for kindling (dia. approx. 2-5 cm ; max. humidity 20%,) -Tinder of choice - Matches/Lighter
2. STOVE PREPARATION
- Open all air supplies/dampers in the fireplace - Stack the larger billets in alternate directions on the
bottom of the hearth - Put a layer of smaller splints on the top of the thick billets for kindling (not more
than 3 layers). Arran- ge the splints so that there is some space between them to let the air flow freely -
Place the tinder on the top layer.
BURNING
Strike a light and close the fireplace door. Depending on how long the chimney flue is and how strong its
draught is, lighting may take from a few to dozen plus minutes. If the chimney draught is not suffi- cient,
let some air in by opening the fireplace door slightly. It might be a good idea to open a window slightly
in the room in which the fireplace is installed to supply larger amount of air to the appliance (the
appliances without integrated external air intake only) The fireplace insert is designed to burn wood
with a humidity of up to 20%. Using coal, coke, coal-ba- sed products, plastic, litter, cloths and other
flammable materials is not allowed. Burning approved wood briquettes made of wood dust or pellet is
temporarily allowed, but in small quantities only. The following is practical guidance for assessing the
wood used as fuel. The wood which is to have a humidity of 18-20% must be seasoned for 18-24 months
or kiln-dried. As the humidity of wood de- creases, its net calorific value rises, which brings financial
savings of even up to 30% of the total wood weight needed to run the appliance during one heating
season. If the wood used for burning is of too high humidity, then, too much energy needed for
evaporation and condensation in the flue pipe or combustion chamber can be consumed, which affects
the heating process of a room. Another negative process occurring when the high-humidity wood is
used is the emission of creosote, a deposit which damages the chimney flue and, in extreme cases, can
result in ignition and a chimney fire. It is therefore recommended to use hardwood like oak, beech,
hornbeam or birch. Lower calorific va- lues are typical of the coniferous trees and burning their wood
produces heavy soot accumulation on the glass.
